Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

You may be having a short circuit somewhere in your wiring. Do a leak test on your wiring and trace it back. Take it to an electrical mechanic. He will sort it out. No way of predicting the cause of the issue from 2-4 sentences.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Guys, while commuting to office last friday, suddenly motorcycle came to halt like someone hit the kill switch. Upon checking, fuse was blown. Yesterday I have swapped the new fuse and have not faced any issue. Today again at middle of highway, I was stranded with a blown fuse. It was a scary experience as my mobile ran out of juice and I had to push my dead motorcycle for 10km with all the riding Gears on. I'm not good at electrical things, can you guys help me get to the root of the problem so that fuse would not blow again. Please assist me.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0


Thanks will keep it as a reference for next time as I have got it done from SVC this time along with other work..

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I was just trying to save you from the pain of making your own mistakes, and I know as I've had to ride 300 km's with a snapped clutch cable before I could spot a SVC to source a replacement.

And let me tell, in spite of riding on the interstate it wasn't a pleasant experience.

Pointless IMHO, the wires go hard and crack before anything inside the switch gear actually rusts.

And I have a 5 year old motorcycle that has been left out in the rain quite a bit yet still on the stock switch sets to prove so.

Plus, do a cost analysis and you'd come to realize that it only costs about 10 cans or less of WD40 to actually buy a new pair of switch sets, so is it really worth it?

Who knows! Maybe I'm missing something.

If chain life is what you seek then quit whatever comes in a can and go for good old gear oil, heck you can even skip the pointless cleaning part, personally last time I bothered to clean a chain was in 2011, its documented here somewhere in this forum.

My current chain set is 25k km's old and has about 75% life left as it has been adjusted only once, my fellow friends and enthusiasts with the same motorcycle change the set in 10~20k km's. And I'm the hardest when it comes to the throttle and heaviest when it comes to the saddle, so go figure.

My intention is never to deter your confidence, just trying to tell you that overdoing things is not ideal and has been proven by many on this forum itself who haul ass cross country.

Cheers, Ride Safe,
A.P.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Use the nozzle that comes with it and spray from the top, some will be wasted but some will hit the target.
Then insert the nozzle inside the headlight toggle switch and spray liberal amount, keep flicking the switches on and off to get rid of the rust, and you will see the difference.
Repeat again in a week. Do this every 2-3 months along with regular maintenance and you will never face rusting issues.

If the problem is not resolved, only three screws hold the switch gear assembly, open them, and it will split into 2 halves, then spray WD40 properly everywhere and clean with cotton tip ear buds to remove rust. then spray again and close the unit.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Buy Electrical Contact Cleaner rather.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I am having issue with engine kill switch.. how to lube it with WD40..??

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Thank you for the advise sir.
Will get it replaced this weekend.
I just wanted to make sure that there is no DIY that might work.
You see this comes from my father who still owns a 1988 Bajaj chetak and has still kept it working after 30 years. We are DIY guys.
Thank you again for the advise.

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Why all the negativity man.
I just wanted to make sure that there is nothing I can do at home to salvage and increase the life of the cable.
I tried some things which did not work, so thought of seeking advise from my elder borthers.
Isn't Xbhp for this purpose? Aren't we here to learn from others and share our experiences? (both success and failures)
At least I am.

Oh and by the way I also spray WD40 at my switch gear, so it may not rust and I don't have to replace it.
I also clean and lube my chain , so I don't have to replace the chain and sprocket set.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Cables are consumables that should be changed periodically, trying Jugaads to extend their life is simply pointless, but sadly it's one of those things that people only learn after it bites them in the ass when they least expect it to.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

A couple of pointers I'd like to add; if the throttle cable is too tight and you hear a crunching or twisting sound when you twist the throttle, it can mean that the throttle wire sheath is kinked and the the strands are already coming apart, this would mean, your cable can snap at any time. Lubing it too can and will give temporary relief, but it's wise to replace a throttle cable that's extremely tight. The tightness would mean, it's slowly starting to weaken on the inside. I'd recommend replacing both the pull and push cables, for peace of mind.

The stock cable of the R15 have a black sheath are extremely resistant to corrosion and what not, beautiful cables. But, wear and tear will eventually weaken the joint near the cable bob and can lead to snapping.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Thank you guys for all your help and suggestions.
I'll see if I can salvage the old wire and make it work for a few more months.

And if nothing works, will replace the cable set.
Thanks again for the advise. I really appreciate it.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Buy a simple syringe, fill it with 50% diesel and 50% engine oil / gear oil ... mix well.

Open up the right side switch gear to get access to the ends of the throttle cable(S). Now insert the needle as much as u can deep inside the insulator and start pumping the mix from the syringe. It will take time. Don't be in a hurry. After some time you will see oil dripping out fro the other side.

Viola!! You are done.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

#Take a small funnel and put the throttle cable through the hole of the funnel
# keep the open end of the inside the funnel so that when you fill the funnel with kerosene the open end of the cable gets submerged.
#Tape the base of the funnel and the cable together so that no oil leaks out
# fill the funnel with kerosene
#hang this contraption at a height and let gravity do its job
#after some time start pulling the wire inside the cable in and out so that the inside gets cleaned properly and oil reaches the end of the cable
#Buy a new cable as mechanical parts needs replacement after some time and save all this trouble

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0


Yes and there's also risk of throttle not going off when you want to.. you have to do it with your wrist.. happened with me few times...

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Anyone here using HEL steel braided break lines ? Want to know the price and feedback..

Also any other performance modifications one can do which are not too heavy on pocket...

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hi Brother, I have tried all the do it yourself "Jugaads" at home.
The problem is if you take it to local mechanic, he looks at the bike and charges triple amount for what he would charge a discover, or a shine.
If you take it to authorized service center, they are morons and know only one thing. Replace the whole part, They have no skills to find a problem and fix it, they just replace the whole part and charge you for it.

So at first I opened it and tried putting in chain lube, but there is no space between the metal wire and the rubber hose, so it did not work. next I tried putting in WD40, as it is not viscous and might seep in between, but that has not worked either. I have been ignoring it for past few months, but now its hurting my wrists in less than 10 minutes ride. So I'll replace it this weekend. Seems there is no other way..