Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Yes, that's quite probable but the vehicle uses similar jets for clutch cooling (old models of Duke 200), stator cooling and piston underside cooling. They could potentially get blocked too. Using high detergent oil is a must along with timely changing of anything that can put debris in oil.

You got it the other way round. I think in the pic, the left side of the camshaft holder (away from spark plug hole) is worn whereas the right side (near to cam sprocket/chain) looks good. It is as if the cam chain (RHS) was putting a lot of weight on the camshaft causing the other side (LHS) to get worn. As we can see, only the lobes are lubed by the nozzles. The actual shaft is lubricated by those cut-outs in the U-shaped portion. They look large to be blocked by gunk/debris. What scares me is you say you changed oil every 2.5k-3k and still this happened. Definitely not the best design. In CBR/RTR/FZ/Ninja/GS150, the camshaft itself is hollow, lobes have holes that spray oil - but the U-shaped portion that is held by the holder/guide (in CBR/Ninja) is lubricated similar to KTM only.

IIRC, RS/NS200 uses a different design - no nozzles are involved neither does the lobes have holes. The valve head doesn't shower oil like the commuter Hondas. Most probably some simple type of splash lubrication like Activa/Splendor. And in nearly all RS/NS200 camshafts, there's a rainbow color discoloration near the cam sprocket bearing indicating overheating.

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

I'll check on the preload part.. but I didn't got you on the engine kill switch thing? How can that be responsible for power loss? Or not able to produce more power?

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Bro i think you should check your engine kill switch or the ignition key area. Use carburettor and brake parts cleaner to spray within the holes and oxides, if any, would be removed the bike will be normal again power wise. Most probably it’s one of these issues.
Now coming to the tankslapper issue, the amount of money that you spent is insane. I want you to check your rear suspension to see if its fine and no oil is leaking from it. If no oil is leaking, i would advice you to increase the preload on the rear suspension by one or two clicks and the problem should go away. Let me know if it worked. Good luck!

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

I've had a similar experience on my KTM, Bajaj 200NS shares most of the same internal oil circulation/spray design. So sharing it here so that it's related.
I've already posted on the RC390 thread on the cam failure on my bike which caused the valve to got out of sync and damage the entire head and piston assembly.

So ya I also started noticing the tik tik sound from the head area along with knocking sound due to bad timing chain/tensioner. I've always maintained proper oil level and changed withing 2.5-3K kms even though KTM recommends 5K change interval.

When we opened up the head the cam guide cover and the lobe was worn out almost by 1mm-2mm like you said(this was only on the exhaust cam side, since mine is a DOHC), upon further debugging and poking around, my mechanic confirmed even though oil level was always maintained, there is inherit design flaw where any dust or gung can/might block one the oil spary jets in the head which might lead the oil starvation to that particular cam area even though there is plenty of oil in the bike.

I then inspected the all oil jets and yes indeed found out one of the jets near the right exhaust valve area was fully blocked, this was the exact lobe which had worn out and failed.

As you can see from the pic, only the right side of the head(top side in this pic) of the cam guide is fully worn out by 1mm-2mm, where as the left side (bottom side in this pic) is perfectly 100% fine and there is not even single skore mark on the left side, oil channels push the oil from left to right. So there was blockage in between somewhere due to gung or jets were clogged and only the right side of the head intake/exhaust cam lobes was starved of oil completely, eventually the left exhaust cam lobe/valve which was the one that failed on me.

The jets I'm referring to is near top, a small hole outlet which you can see the near my index and middle fingers

Conclusion: Make sure if possible at every 7K or 10K or 15K kms that you ask them to open up the head cover, spray compressed air through all the oil jets and verify that there is no gung and its clean and free flowing

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Going by the symptoms this is clearly something to do with ignition circuit. Carb is not the problem I feel

1) Check for the Reed sensor in the Carb and that timing advancement is happening properly proportional to the throttle input increase. Check for change in resistance
2) Check the Mangento coil, a failing coil is linked with erratic RPM variation, RPM falling to 0 suddenly.
3) Check both Left and Right HT Ignition coil, this bike has 3 spark plugs. 1 spark plug linked to 1st primary coil and 2 spark plugs to 2nd secondary coil. 1st coil kicks in at low rpms(which has 1 spark plug), 2nd coil(which has 2 spark plug) this kicks-in post 6K rpm to increase the combustion efficiency . Going by your symptoms mentioned post 6-7K bike runs fine means when both coils are in action(3 spark plugs are in action)! Below 6K only 1 coil will be in action with 1 spark working.
Check both coils, swap the spark plugs from secondary to primary and check or replace all 3 spark plugs.

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Issues.... Rocket boost problem which happens at 7k rpm and than after 8k rpm it's goes like a rocket passing speed of 110-120 in a breeze... 1st problem started at 17k Kms ...* after which I changed the carb at 24k Kms... the 1st carb I changed and again after 35k kms same problem.. I've gone to local mechanic whom I know got it cleaned and everything.. it worked for a week than again the same problem! I've reached 49k kms now.. still at low rpms it's good but Now toh it's worse.. It gasping for power/air/fuel at 6.5rpm! I don't know what it wants but it's struggles at that range, where I guess in that range is usually you get the peak power at those rpm levels.. but clearly I'm not.. ..while downshifting from 6 to 5 or 4.. even if the rpms goes to 9k on 4th gear, it won't push forward, like being stagnant there.. it will decrease speed very quickly but than climbing up, it sucks! I feel like changing the carb but than again after some moments of joy, riding smoothly for*8000/9000kms. Again this problem will come! I'm tired of all this.. sometimes..


What can be solution to this problem with the carb!? I've done changing the butterfly thing but still the same.. every 10000kms changing the carb it's a pain again and again coming up with the same problem... Any help will be great..*

And again another problem I've started facing recently is the tankslapper problem or in other words termed as Speed wobble or death wobbles when cruising around 120kmph.. 1st I thought it was because of uneven roads but no, even at speeds of 90/100 the handlebar tends to vibrate and give a feel of wobbles.. I've checked the cone setups, the forks, suspensions, even changed at fork oils recently at 40k Kms but still nthng could be found any idea what could be the reason of this..! I've Inspected my front wheel for cracks or bent but nothing.. but however in the rear I have this little hump, but it's very small, not noticeble from far only when you look closely when rotating you will see a hump.. no air leakage nothing .. can that pose a problem?

Please Advice... I'm in desperate need in some guidance... I'm literally tired but somehow not giving up on these problems which are temporarily...*

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Relax, there are many NS200 bs4 that have done 30-45k and don't have such issues. This might be specific to a batch.

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Interesting, my bike has reached only 3k and its BS4. Wonder whether this is gonna happen to mine. I am using stock oil.

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Interesting. Never heard of same issue on bikes from my group so far. Will note this for further checks.

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Has someone noticed the tiktik sound that comes from the engine of both the Pulsar NS200 and RS200? My friend bought his Pulsar NS200 in June 2019 and he had that sound from the beginning, but it was subtle and wasn’t so noticeable. My Pulsar RS200 2015 model also had that sound and upon closer inspection on January 2020, it was found that my one of my cam lobes has eroded off by upto a millimetre. The mechanic, who is well known to me said that this has happened due to high speed riding and that the engine oil can’t lubricate the cams properly at high rpm’s, although i doubt it because at high rpm, the oil pump works faster which should pump more oil. I always used Motul 7100 20w50 oil. Anyway, i trusted him as i do ride the bike extensively and also take it to the highways at least three times a month and do high speeds. They replaced the cam and now the engine sounds smooth.
Going back to my friend’s NS200, the tiktik sound was somewhat contained till February 2020, he completed 9k kms by then and stuck to Bajaj Dtsi 10000 20w50 as he wanted warranty. At 9k kms he decided to switch to the Dominar 400’s oil, that is the Bajaj Dtsi 10000 10w50 and after that the sound just kept on increasing to a point when the tiktik sound was audible more than the exhaust sound in idle and the sound increased with increase in rpms. I thought maybe the tappet clearance were out, and a simple visit to svc would solve it, so we visited svc on June 2020. We waited until the tappet clearance was done, and started the engine for test and surprisingly the sound was still there. The mechanic who worked on my bike opened the head and upon inspection, it was found that one of the cam lobes was eroded the exact same way as my RS’s. The same lobe, even the pattern and depth was exactly the same. It was really surprising to see a very well maintained bike with 11k kms on odo with an eroded camshaft. The svc guys replaced it free of cost, as the bike was still under warranty and their statement was the same. “The bike gets ridden very fast due to which oil cannot reach the cylinder head properly and lubricate it”.Upon asking if its a manufacturing defect, they are denying any. My friend rides very sedately in city and rides fast occasionally on highways, the rest of the time cruising at around 90-100km/h. My brother owns a 200NS 2013 model with 39k kms on odo amd his bike hasn’t had the issue, although the bike was ridden pretty fast. Since that time onwards, i have seen many NS200s with the same loud tiktik sound which increases upon increase in rpm and i am pretty sure that if not all, most of them have got this camshaft issue. I think that this is a manufacturing defect, and it has affected a big percentage of NS and RS200. It would be very grateful if you throw some light and maybe share your experiences if you have got any. Thanks!

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Hey guys, I would like a little help regarding the steering head bolt size of the NS. Is it 23 or 24? Any help would be appreciated.

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Check fuel tap, fuel filter (no one cares to replace fuel filter I'm NS200 mostly). Most importantly plugs, check on how carbon buildup is..

Regards
Manoj Sivaraman..

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Reposting it because nobody replied 😅

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Hi,
Yes KTM and bajaj includes Kluber Petamo Grease which is 193N.
One can use silicone based grease as a alternative.
AFAIK these seals are like a consumable. Needs frequent change every 17~19k kms.
390s fail under these range. KTM recommends to change every 20k. ie. On first coolant change its ideal to have a coolant flush and seals replaced at 20k.
I'll post a better description of the seal direction and the spring function by morning..

Regards
Manoj Sivaraman..

Re: Pulsar 200 NS Owners Review and Experiences

Srvn, what Manoj has mentioned here is the open side of the seal facing the outside, towards you and the completely closed with numbers towards the inner. Simple, take your front forks for example, your fork seal lips are outside so that the inside oil doesn't come out. Same way, you install the open end facing you and the closed end of the seal facing towards the engine. See, this is the catch. On the pump impeller side, the lip is there to prevent the coolant entering inside the balancer hole, and ruin the bearings and mix with the oil. The the backside of the same cover, the lip is facing the engine oil side, so it prevents the engine oil from mixing to the coolant, I hope I didn't complicate it. The simple example is your motorcycle fork seals, gives you an idea. Think of the inside fork oil as engine oil and the outside as imaginary coolant side.

The catch is instead of having two lips and two seals doing service, now you two seals three lips doing the service. Hope you got the point.

And @Manoj Sivaraman, great insights as always. Is KPG included with the kit these days?

Cheers!
VJ