Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

The airbox costs Rs. 2700~ ballpark, and it's better to get it replaced as it can only progressively worsen. If you'd like to have a temporary fix, I'd recommend you you get M-seal putty and apply over the crack, it helps. Though it might be an eye sore, you can paint it black once its dry and set. The fuel will have to be siphoned out, as the fuel cannot come out just like that as in a carburetted bike. You have to first siphon out the fuel from the tank and then disassemble the parts.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Quick Update regarding the fuel bar issue:
As service centre is not giving me an option to repair or even check the fuel float + meter assembly, I spent a few hours yesterday to take out the tank from the bike. Noticed the airbox has a small crack meanwhile. How much does it cost since its way out of warranty? Mine is 2015 manufactured.
I am unable to take out the fuel from the tank although I have separated the fine fuel filter from the tank. Please help with an easy way out. Doing this for the first time.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Hey rawat, absolutely sorry to hear that buddy. Thank your stars, and god forbid nothing happening unduly happened. Now, coming to your query, since you've replaced your pad set and brake oil. The loss in pressure can be related either to a faulty front MS piston. A faulty master cylinder piston won't be able to contain the pressure applied on the lever, and you have master cylinder rebuild kit which can perhaps solve the issue.

Secondly, bleeding must be done in such a way wherein the air is removed entirely from the system. The system should be bled twice to thrice to make sure the air in the system is thoroughly bled. Topping up the brake fluid won't solve the issue. I'd strongly recommend you to do the bleeding once again and make sure the banjo on the master cylinder and on the caliper is torqued properly.

Even though it's an option that can work, I'd strongly recommend you to replace your master cylinder kit to the newer 2017, they have a longer piston and the feedback is much, much improved. Either you can get the new 2017 master cylinder or get the newer front master cylinder rebuild kit and use it on the older master, as they are a direct it. The rear brakes are next to dead on the Duke series especially on the older lots, they don't provide any feedback whatsoever. The only way to anchor is to use the front for maximum efficiency.

Keep your observations posted.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

What might be happening here is that your brake pads get pushed apart to the point where you need multiple lever pulls to get them touch the disk again.

Check for brake fluid leaks in the entire system. Also, check if your forks are aligned correctly, the axle bolt and the axle pinch bolts are tightened to the right torque spec. Check if your rotor is warped.

Did you bleed the brakes yourself or did you have someone do it for you? Sometimes the mechanics say they bleed the brakes but all they do is change the fluid in the reservoir.

About a new MC, I think the new 2018 MC is great. It has a bigger piston to provide better feel and stopping power. I recently swapped mine out. Will cost you around 2.5k and it comes with the adjustable lever. I don't think an aftermarket MC is really needed after this upgrade.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Hi..it happened again ..post deleted..
So i took my bike for some spirited riding ...installed ebc pad flushed brake oil some time back like 1000 km back...everything was fine till this time ..abs kicked lot of time and i was so happy with the brakes and than i was parking it and suddenly front brake lost all the pressure and i hit the wall but due to low speed all was fine otherwise i would be ex-xbhp member today if it would happened on the road...now i lost all the confidence..i squeezed lever multiple time and it started getting pressure again but not sure if it would trick me again and make me swargiya prashant...kindly advice please

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Now i pressed the lever hard and tied handlebar with cloth and made sure its too tight so that all the bubble will be diffused and i am sure there are lot which are showing up now and surprising me if my mind is advising right after 1000 km and 3 month of riding after brake pad change and brake oil flushed
..shall i change master cylinder and i am happy to do that bcoz i think life is more worthy than the master cylinder what i have in 2014 model ktm which was never feedback rich..please suggest some good MC ..i have lot of contact in US And europe who can bring me one...i am really scared today to be honest@ B7ACKTHORN

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

I don't think Clutch plate replacement is needed before 50kkms unless you are riding very hard/track days/some geniune problem.
I think it will be around rs 10-12k as Last time I enquired about upgrading to slippers clutch just out of curiosity.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

How much would a clutch basket cost ? My bike is at 21k and a mild clutter noise while engaging and disengaging the clutch but this noise appears only on cold engine, after riding it for a while this will disappear ! Should I be concerned to change it ? And when one should change the clutch plates? Mine 2016 model with slipper clutch.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Honining is a process as you know is to make sure the surface is as round as possible and spec free as possible. Not only that, the cross hatch pattern itself is important to make sure the oil stays in the surface of the cylinder in a criss-crossed pattern as opposed to nothing which an cause scuffing/scoring. Honing can be done on both CI, steel and NiKaSil or DiAsil liners. It's better to hone a new cylinder and then install it, if not cross-hatched.

If you feel the sound changing mildly when the clutch is engaged and disengaged that's normal. A mild change in sound is okay, but if you hear distinct change in sound with a rattle noise or a mild cluttery sound, it's time to replace your clutch basket. It's developed play and this will only worsen. At that RPM, the engine will sound a little harsher which is again normal, nothing to worry about. If you've closed more than 15k on your bike, it's time to inspect your shims/cam chain tensioner and replace.

Park number for NGK LKAR8AI9

300V in the end, is an oil, so it can be dragged to more than 3k max. I'd always recommend this as max for any oil, especially when it comes to motorcycles. If you're satisfied with the performance that the 300V has to offer, stick to it. Enjoy your bike, nothing to worry about. The key is the timely interval and replacement of engine oil.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

If you're redlining your bike most of the time then 300v is the oil you should stick to.
I usually drain 300v after every 2000 - 2500 kms

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Okay now I'm really confused, my bike's 5th service is ahead, I've been using motul 300v engine oil for over 5k kms, I was thinking to use the same oil for the next service too, well I've read somewhere that the 300v change interval is too less and meant only for track days. Coming to my confusion part where I really like the 300v performance as I felt the smoothness and power delivery was too good compared to the 7100.

Can someone clarify this please, I'll be using my rc only on weekends and love to redline as I'll be on the highway.

Also please mention the part number for NGK IRIDIUM spark plug.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

UPDATE: Low Oil Pressure issue.

Got my bike back today. I've attached the list of parts that were replaced.

What do you guys think?

Also, I made sure all the fasteners were torqued properly and all the clearances were checked and adjusted.


Do we follow some kind of a break in procedure for running in new piston rings, valves, cam chain and tensioner?

Thanks
Avinash

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Yeah, my brother will buy it soon.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Thanks for bringing it up, I learnt something new. Didn't know about Nikasil coating until you said it, I guess they can't be re-honed.

My query was more in keeping with bikes/scooters like these (now that I know 390 has Nikasil). My concern was whether the "valleys" that hold oil will still be there or will be swept off by the new rings (over dramatic thinking , rings are alloys while cylinder lining is usually iron).

I can see how Bajaj sold 67k units of 150 in Jan 2019! Reasonable price + easy servicing.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Query-back: Is re-crosshatching/honing still a thing with cylinders being Nikasil coated these days?

As for my personal experience the CBZ at hand simply had new rings put in.

Edit: Just recalled having a look at a brand new Pulsar 180 Cylinder kit today, and I'm not sure if its my failing memory but I do not recall seeing any distinct honing marks on the cylinder surface, but then it wasn't as glazing as a worn cylinder. The reason I'd picked up the kit in the first place was to look at the pricing which was under 2.3k So do consider my observation with a pinch of salt as I wasn't specifically looking for honing marks.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Is it necessary to roughen the cylinder walls a little bit with a boring machine or can new rings be fitted and run-in just like that if the cylinder and piston is okay (no scars, burn marks, etc) ? TIA !