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Is the "thumb starter switch/button with wire" unit available separately as a spare? I have some shorting somewhere inside the wire and it needs to be changed. The SVC could not give me a proper answer to this.
In all the Dukes, especially the 2013-2016 model sall have their thumbstarters integrated into the switch gear. In case they are faulty, you have to replace them. You can't change the switch alone. You can remove the switch and check the solder and re-solder if necessary and brush the contacts so that they work well. A local automobile electrician can do that for you.
Is the "thumb starter switch/button with wire" unit available separately as a spare? I have some shorting somewhere inside the wire and it needs to be changed. The SVC could not give me a proper answer to this.
Guys i am confused between rc 390 and duke 390...Is there any possibility 2020 rc390 will have those led lamps and tft display, as the old one seems to be outdated...and also i heard some news about 490s..should i wait for that?
If your camshafts are scored as well as the finger followers, it's primarily due to faulty oil pump or blocked camshaft oil galleys. The oil pump is fully serviceable and can be removed and cleaned. Secondly, though oil traces are present on the head, it doesn't mean they are getting the required oil for lubrication. Secondly, it can also be that your oil pump would be fine, and would still read the desired pressure readout, but the galleys on the head can be blocked causing not efficient oil flow, and hence ruined your cam and finger followers. RTV, if applied correctly aren't a problem, if it's too much and pish pashed everywhere, they can ball up and in fact block the galleys and ruin the engine. Start off by removing the cam shaft and finger followers, and remove the top bridge and get it thoroughly air cleaned, especially the oil galleys. Then make sure, your oil pump is cleaned and also your oil filter isn't gunked up. A failed oil filter can and will cause seizure, starving the engine off of vital engine oil.
1. Get your valve cover bridge inspected.
2. Get your oil pump cleaned, that's more than enough.
3. Make sure your oil filter is clean and replace if necessary.
Checking the above should solve your issue. Keep your observations posted.
Cheers!
VJ [emoji41]
1. Already ordered a new one (it’s the type of rubber gasket which sits below the valve head right?)
2. That’s near the clutch plates right? Can’t find any info on how to clean it online. Any help on how to do it properly?
Will blowing air into it help or I shouldn’t do that?
3. Just installed a new K&N oil filter.
Also checked my valve clearance
Both exhaust are double of what they need to be
The left intake is also double and the right intake is near to 0 cause can’t even put my smallest feeler
Will check again once I install the new camshafts and rocker arms and then will measure and buy the shims
Ordered the parts
Would take around 7-10 days for them to arrive
Will post everything in detail once the bike is fully fixed
[MENTION=39214]B7ACKTHORN[/MENTION]
Hey, sorry for asking too many questions
My bikes showing low oil pressure
I’m going to use a gauge to measure the pressure
The workshop manual checks the pressure through the oil filter cover and the PSI is written for that part on the manual
I wanted to check it from where the oil pressure sensor/switch is located as my camshaft got damaged as well as rocker arms but traces of oil is present there and I thought it would be because of the low oil pressure
My oil level was well over half of the circle from where the oil level can be check
Bike had around 1.6liters of oil when drained through both the drain bolts
So I’m thinking it’s because of the pump or some strands of rtv ( yea I know, shouldn’t have had used it) has blocked the flow
Should the pressure be different in that area to check or would it be same there too?
I’ll post an update on the damaged oil filter cover part and all once the bike is totally fixed
If your camshafts are scored as well as the finger followers, it's primarily due to faulty oil pump or blocked camshaft oil galleys. The oil pump is fully serviceable and can be removed and cleaned. Secondly, though oil traces are present on the head, it doesn't mean they are getting the required oil for lubrication. Secondly, it can also be that your oil pump would be fine, and would still read the desired pressure readout, but the galleys on the head can be blocked causing not efficient oil flow, and hence ruined your cam and finger followers. RTV, if applied correctly aren't a problem, if it's too much and pish pashed everywhere, they can ball up and in fact block the galleys and ruin the engine. Start off by removing the cam shaft and finger followers, and remove the top bridge and get it thoroughly air cleaned, especially the oil galleys. Then make sure, your oil pump is cleaned and also your oil filter isn't gunked up. A failed oil filter can and will cause seizure, starving the engine off of vital engine oil.
1. Get your valve cover bridge inspected.
2. Get your oil pump cleaned, that's more than enough.
3. Make sure your oil filter is clean and replace if necessary.
Checking the above should solve your issue. Keep your observations posted.
Upload it to your Google Drive or via YouTube, you can post your link here. You cannot upload a standalone video.
Cheers!
VJ
Hey, sorry for asking too many questions
My bikes showing low oil pressure
I’m going to use a gauge to measure the pressure
The workshop manual checks the pressure through the oil filter cover and the PSI is written for that part on the manual
I wanted to check it from where the oil pressure sensor/switch is located as my camshaft got damaged as well as rocker arms but traces of oil is present there and I thought it would be because of the low oil pressure
My oil level was well over half of the circle from where the oil level can be check
Bike had around 1.6liters of oil when drained through both the drain bolts
So I’m thinking it’s because of the pump or some strands of rtv ( yea I know, shouldn’t have had used it) has blocked the flow
Should the pressure be different in that area to check or would it be same there too?
I’ll post an update on the damaged oil filter cover part and all once the bike is totally fixed
Any particular reasons not to get the Hazard light plug-n-play kit for the RC390?
Even though I have been into microcontrollers and electronics for a while now, this is my first bike with an ECU on it. Don't want to go about messing things up!
Originally posted by anirudhchandrashekarView Post
Works like a charm, zero vibes from the mirror housing now! Have already put in rubber washers (Old tube) for the fairings. Next up, is to curb a little bit of windscreen buzz. Any suggestions? Maybe more old tubing here too!
Also, regarding the valve cover, its an easy DIY job for me. I always played around with gasket makers and leaky engine covers back in the day. Will plan it out and go about it when I have the time.
Cheers!
Yup, you can use nylon washers but it depends on the length of the screws and the available space to install these washer. Torque them too tight, and there are chances of ruining the threads and it's a different PITA altogether. But, rubber tubes and grommets help a long way, give it a try. Secondly, yes, make sure you torque them bolts well and replace it with a new O ring. Keep your observations posted.
Hey guys,
Can the peeps in Bangalore suggest a good place for bike service for my RC 390?
If you guys know any around Banashankari andd Jayanagar please let me know,
You can either go for Autoservice, Yarab Nagar behind Banashankari Bus stop or KTM BTM layout near Udupi Garden.
Both places are relatively okay compared to other money making showrooms.
Just try to stay with the bike while your bike is getting serviced if you got to either of places.
Glad to know that you've used the silicone setup. Observe it for a while, if it stays put, then you're all set. If it still gives up after sometime, replace the stalk.
Cheers!
VJ
Works like a charm, zero vibes from the mirror housing now! Have already put in rubber washers (Old tube) for the fairings. Next up, is to curb a little bit of windscreen buzz. Any suggestions? Maybe more old tubing here too!
Also, regarding the valve cover, its an easy DIY job for me. I always played around with gasket makers and leaky engine covers back in the day. Will plan it out and go about it when I have the time.
Hey guys,
Can the peeps in Bangalore suggest a good place for bike service for my RC 390?
The SVC labor is too high and they don't justify for the price they charge too.
If you guys know any around Banashankari andd Jayanagar please let me know,
Thanks
Rahul, if its a general service, I'd suggest you figure out the basic work which gets done, gather the right tools and go about doing it yourself.
1. Engine Oil Top-up
2. Coolant top-up
3. Brake pad check (Sand it a little if required/replace)
4. Inspect the bike for any leaks or any other misbehavior.
5. Chain clean - lube
IMHO, all these mentioned work can be very easy DIY work and you won't have to rush to the svc anymore. Unless, you have a warranty that you need to tend to and to make sure it is valid, yes, then svc is your goto place. Else, I would suggest DIY route.
If it is something big as valve adjustment or something on the scale that would hold back the beginner DIYers then again, I would suggest the svc route.
Coming to the answer, KTM Hoskerehalli is nearby to Banashankari. And Auto Service in Bsk 2nd stage too.
Hey guys,
Can the peeps in Bangalore suggest a good place for bike service for my RC 390?
The SVC labor is too high and they don't justify for the price they charge too.
If you guys know any around Banashankari andd Jayanagar please let me know,
Thanks
Originally posted by anirudhchandrashekarView Post
Finished a small mod to the mirror glass last night. Added some silicone around it on the edges where the glass meets the housing. Will be riding the bike in a while, so I will keep you guys updated on the mod.
Coming to the engine valve cover, I have to go get myself a new gasket and then begin the work on it (Not under warranty)
Cheers!
Glad to know that you've used the silicone setup. Observe it for a while, if it stays put, then you're all set. If it still gives up after sometime, replace the stalk. Secondly,
I'd strongly recommend you to replace your valve cover if you're under warranty, stating a leakage, and make sure you're present while they carry out the procedure. If you do anything outside, they can and will void warranty, and mind you SVC are adept at nullifying a warranty. If your warranty period is over, then you can take it to your friendly garage or authorized SVC, and make sure you oversee the procedure all the while. The key here is to make sure the right amount of sealant and a new valve cover O gasket is used along with properly torqued bolts.
Finished a small mod to the mirror glass last night. Added some silicone around it on the edges where the glass meets the housing. Will be riding the bike in a while, so I will keep you guys updated on the mod.
Coming to the engine valve cover, I have to go get myself a new gasket and then begin the work on it (Not under warranty)
The other question I had was, has anyone upgraded to heavier bar end weights on their RC390 to reduce/manage vibrations on the handlebar? Or changed grips which helped reduce the vibes?
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