KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Couldn’t find a left handed drill bit or an extractor here in lko (people don’t even know what these are)
Had to take it to a welder as lathe weren’t doing it

The welder took the bolt out but f’ed up the surface

Oil still still leaks (like a person whose about to finish his peeing session) but at least the cap stays on and I could take it to the svc

Tried compunds and other stuff but no use

Changed the O ring twice but surface isn’t flat for it to be seal tight

All the oil has been thrown out in the past 3 days (1300 down the drain)

Adding mineral oil and taking it to the svc tomorrow (would keep topping it up on the way)

I’m literally about to cry now

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Oh that's bad, indeed. Though I have observed mild leaks and weeps due to failed O rings. It's surprising to know such much oil leaks with the O ring in place, could it be poorly torqued bolts is anyone's guess. But, it's strange how these leaks escalate quickly.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

The only bolts that are known to break off are the ones holding the crash guard. All other bolts are of normal quality. It looks like whoever did the service earlier had over-tightened the bolts resulting in them breaking off when you tried to undo them. Let's not blame component quality for shoddy labor.
A failed O ring can leak lots of oil, I've seen this happen myself on a couple of friends bike.. in your case bad luck the bolts broke while removing them. Get new oem bolts and don't over tighten them (once they seat, just a 1/4 turn max should be good enough.. or torque spec if you have a torque wrench)
I think a decent welding or lathe shop should be able to help you extract the broken bolt, i've seen it being done to extract broken bolt from the frame . Pl check with your svc or a local mechanic for guidance.

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i've seen worse from a failed O ring, as much as 300ml leak out and form a pool under the bike. just a failed O ring no broken bolts.
the bike in question was [MENTION=70615]Ajay Vishwanath[/MENTION] rc200 a couple of yrs ago.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

You're right, I did confuse that one myself. The clutch case is separate and the oil filter is with the center case. Yes, you can use an extractor, if you are careful enough not to damage the diameter of the bolt insert. If you can drill and get the bolt out with an extractor, you can use the old bolt size. But if you have a thread that's gone too, you'll have to go for a bigger sized bolt. Stainless bolts are strong and don't slip easily as the OEM cheese bolts.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

The oil filter compartment, it's cover and water pump cover are all located on the RHS crankcase. Either the engine has to be split or the broken bolt should be dealt in situ (would require an extremely experienced and patient lathe guy).

KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Thanks for the quick response,

But isn’t the clutch cover separate from the filter cap holding screws?

Can I use a left drill bit and an extractor to remove the bolt?


Yes ktm bolts sure a weak as a clay
Just saw a lot of complains about the same bolt being broken on various 390 forums

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience


I had a bad feeling about this, since the oil leak was too much for a failed O ring to cause. Now that you've successfully broken the head of the bolt. And yes, the crappy KTM bolts are nothing but made of cheese. You can get good quality steel bolts of the same size in your nearest spare part shop. You can take it to a lathe, where they will remove the entire clutch side casing and remove the stuck bolt and if need be rethread/bolt resized depending on the damage it cause to take the broken thread out. Basically, the SVC will do the same thing by giving it to a lathe or in worse case, ask you to replace the entire clutch casing.

Take it to a lathe yourself by removing the clutch cover, you can do it at a fraction of the cost of what a SVC might charge.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Thanks both of you for your info

But this just happened

I bought the new O ring and when I went to remove the Bolts of the oil filter cap their head came out

I didn’t even apply force
One of the heads came off while the other one was also broken in between but was intact.

I know I didn’t move it the opposite direction nor did I used extreme pressure.

Can’t take the bike anywhere cause the cap won’t stay on.

There wasn’t any resistance either when I turned it anti clockwise

When buying new bolts should I buy these cheap quality ones from KTM or more durable ones outside?


Any suggestions to how to remove it without damaging or whom to contact for it?

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

1. Yes, the oil filter comes with a O ring which is replaceable and it's a good practice if it's replaced with each oil change. O rings are basically what helps prevent the oil leak from the oil filter cover. If the bolts are not properly torqued or we have a faulty O ring, oil will leak. If you have trouble sourcing the O ring, use Anabond sealant mildly over the circumference of the oil filter cover with the O ring in place and top of the O ring and torque it hand tight, till you feel there is no more resistance that's the best and it will prevent any future leaks.

2. 1.7 liters is what people abroad fill and is recommended by KTM too. 1.6 is what's recommended, but nowadays KTM SVC technicians themselves use 1.7 liters, absolutely normal.

3.As long as your oil was replaced and NOT TOPPED UP there's nothing to worry. The sight window will appear full, as it's 1.7 liters, nothing to worry. Make sure your engine bay cleaned off the muck, and make sure all the bolts are torqued.

Always replace the oil filter O ring each time oil is replaced, and make sure your cover bolts are torqued properly.

Hope it helps!

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

That is the oil filter cap from where the leak is. It is usually a good practice to replace the O ring (costs 10 bucks) when ever you replace the filter. not doing so, is known to cause oil leaks from that area. some mechanics simply don't bother to replace the O ring and the customer ends up with such a leak. i've seen this happen on a bunch of bike owned by my friends. excess oil, not replacing O ring and you have a good probability of leak.

clean that area thoroughly and use a new o ring. you might have to tilt the bike to avoid oil spillage and carefully replace the o ring.
Also 1.7 L seems on the higher side.. for a 390, usually fill up around 1.5 L and then idle the bike for 2-3 minutes, shut off, wait 1 minute and then check the oil level with bike Upright and on a flat surface (Without any stand). Add oil in small increments, till its close to or slightly below max level and you should be set. This might end up to around 1.6L ~ 1.7L depending on how much oil actually came out during the drain. I think this is a safer method to get the right amount of oil in engine than simply pour in X amount. iirc there was also an advisory a few months after launch of the 2017-- 390's to reduce the amount of oil poured in vs the initially recommended value.
On a 390 usually there are two drain bolts that are to be removed to drain oil.. some mechanics just drain it from the main one on the side and don't touch the one at the bottom.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Need your 2 cents here guys.

Check the attached pictures
Had my service done about a week ago, saw oil spots in my garage for a while but though they were from my other bikes until today.
The culprit is clear that its the oil filter cover.

1.Is there a separate gasket (or O ring) for the cover that can be replaced or does the whole cover need to be replaced?
2. The guy that works on my bike was previously the head mechanic at KTM and he knows his stuff but he filled my oil to about 1.7 liters, he says that;s how much is needed, is that correct?
3. Anything else you guys think i should check and do with the bike? (Oil level is still near the high range)

things done on my last service (about a week ago)

1. oil change (MOTUL 7100)
2. oil filter change
3. oil strainer cleaned
4. air filter changed
5. chain lube and clean



I have seen here that mechanics don't really tighten the bolts and nuts at the specified torque as listed in the manuals, they just tight it till they seem its enough, does anyone have a link to the service manual so that i could see the actual specs and tight it as per the manual?

Thanks in advance for the feedback


Installed the new apollo alpha h1 tyres on my bike, will post a review comming sunday

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Thanks, will check them out.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

What he meant is that it is best advised not to buy Tyres online(or for any perishable items that has an expiry date), if its still possible place a return request of your order.

Pirelli website lists so many dealers for NCR region, check their website. One of the dealer is the famous racer, biker, Youtuber "Simran King's" store, get in touch with his store.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Yes i think i got that right. (typo the rear is 2018)

2015 is definately borderline. From what i read online, 5 years is generally regarded as the usable life. So, i am sending this back for a refund under Amazon 10-day return policy. Also, i ordered the same tire from another dealer who's selling it for Rs 1k higher, with a hope that the higher price will bring me a newer tire.

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I would, if i knew where i got get it from. Even a Pirelli AD i saw in a motorcycle magazine strangely doesn't mention any dealer or even a contact number.

Anyone know Pirelli or Metzeller dealer in NCR?

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

There's one seller on Amazon who has 2015 batch tyres. A few guys from R3 group messaged him to ask for the manufacturing date/week. He said it was the latest (i.e. Second half of 2018) manufactured. So people went ahead and ordered the tyres but when they received it, only the rear was 2018 manufactured while the front was 2015 manufactured which had turned brittle and had minute cracks. Returning it and the refund was another hassle

So whenever one's buying a tyre, it's good to buy it physically by checking the manufactured dates and the tyre stats and condition