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Okay i finally figured out the problem with the clutch slip. It's not the bike. What was happening is that since i always cover the clutch with two finger, during hard acceleration out of a corner i was inadvertently lightly pulling on the clutch. This became prominent after the the mechanics adjusted the clutch in a recent bike service. All it takes is for the clutch to slip a few times at high load/RPM and it continues to slip for the remainder of the ride (a few minutes of cool down doesn't help). I haven't had to change the clutch plates after i figured this out. (Sorry I lost the video showing the slip, but here's the same without slip: https://youtu.be/VGrEa5_9mJA) -
The YouTube link seems to be broken and hence couldn't gather datum. Clutch slipping on a brand new bike is extremely rare, but it isn't a factor that can't be ruled out either. Start off with your clutch free-play. Too little freeplay, meaning the clutch bike point way too down will eventually weaken the plates and reduce life drastically than a correctly set freeplay, that's one aspect of the diagnoses, albeit a crucial one at that. Make sure your clutch freeplay isn't messed up and the free-play and load correctly set, and see how it fares.Originally posted by Goodboy View Post
The catch to this conundrum is once a clutch starts slipping it's too late even with the freeplay adjusted to spec. Matter of fact, your clutch plates should be replaced and then the freeplay set accordingly.
Good luck.
Cheers!
VJ
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Hmm, looks like there is a lot less activity on this forum since the last time i visited a few years back.
Anyway, i found a workaround: a more progressive throttle roll on, and making fewer shifts on the ride.
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Hi, I have a strange issue with my BS6 KTM RC390, wherein the clutch appears to slip under heavy acceleration. When this happens i can feel the bike stop accelerating despite the engine spinning up and producing a distinct whine. The bike has only done 7600km. Matter of fact i have had the same issue on my earlier BS3 RC390 as well, only there the problem showed up after ~20k km, progressively getting worse until hard acceleration wasn't possible at all after ~40k km. Had to sell the bike. Changing the clutch plates didn't solve the issue.
Here's a clip from today's ride, a whine can be heard during corner exit and a loss in acceleration can be gleaned from the speedometer:
I don't misuse the clutch. Never done any hard launches from a stop, and i don't slip the clutch unnecessarily. Does anyone know what the issue might be?Last edited by Goodboy; 01-03-2024, 11:19 AM.Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by fayad555 View PostOld pump can be rebuilt, usually what fails in most cases is the motor which costs Rs.790 to replace standalone.Originally posted by Manoj Sivaraman View Post
There is no point in replacing whole tank. We have couple bikes running rebuilt pump without any issues or loss in fuel pressure compared to OEM.
P.S. KTM SC will not carry out the rebuild, need to find good shop and mechanic who works on high end bikes.Leave a comment:
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Great info. I guess the press-tab couplers can be used in the older models too I reckon, considering the fuel filter is the same and no changes, throughout?Originally posted by Manoj Sivaraman View Post
Cheers!
VJ
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Hi VJ,Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
Excellent insight MS. Been a while since we happen to have heard from you, and you're back with crucial inputs. The old Pricol unit, can you share some more details as to how long Pricol manufactured and when the switchover i.e year, to Bosch happened? Which unit is more robust as per your experience. So, the oval base was Pricol and the round base is Bosch, am I reading it right, some more inputs, if any would be much appreciated.
Cheers!
VJ
Yeah, it's been more than a year I guess. Yes the old pricol unit is the oval base and Bosch is the round one.
The switch over was informed at the end of 2019. Yet the old pump was still available. Then somewhere in the end of 2020 the pricol unit was discontinued.
Bosch unit is anyday robust in comparison to the pricol one.
Bosch unit has a better pressure relief valve(the spring temper based valve which maintains the rail pressure).
Bosch pump is entirely made of plastic (no more rusting worries). Comes with quick release fuel lines, easier fuel filter changes.Leave a comment:
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Excellent insight MS. Been a while since we happen to have heard from you, and you're back with crucial inputs. The old Pricol unit, can you share some more details as to how long Pricol manufactured and when the switchover i.e year, to Bosch happened? Which unit is more robust as per your experience. So, the oval base was Pricol and the round base is Bosch, am I reading it right, some more inputs, if any would be much appreciated.Originally posted by Manoj Sivaraman View Post
Cheers!
VJ
Last edited by B7ACKTHORN; 12-02-2022, 01:10 AM.Leave a comment:
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Hi,Originally posted by fayad555 View Post
The old PRICOL pump is actually no longer under production. No point in waiting any further.
Newer RC's come with DUKE 2017 type Bosch fuel pump round mounting base. So the only way is to get the tank replaced to accommodate the new Bosch pump. Also to remember if the pump is rusted probably your metal tank is also rusted, cleaning will be a temporary solution. The sock strainer will get clogged quickly if the old tank is rusted. So keep an eye out.Last edited by Manoj Sivaraman; 12-01-2022, 06:36 PM.Leave a comment:
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I did check the used market, there is one for 3.5k, it's not worth that money i felt.Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View PostTry used parts market, and check if you can get a salvaged one. If you have luck, you can get one at a fraction of the cost and get it fixed at good local mechanic. If you are from Kerala, I could strongly recommend you to visit the Kochi used two wheeler market.
Good luck.
Cheers!
VJ
Does anyone know the contact details of any management level officials of ktm india? I'm thinking to send an email. Thanks.Leave a comment:
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Try used parts market, and check if you can get a salvaged one. If you have luck, you can get one at a fraction of the cost and get it fixed at good local mechanic. If you are from Kerala, I could strongly recommend you to visit the Kochi used two wheeler market.
Good luck.
Cheers!
VJ
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The service center guys say that the pump needs to be replaced and I was thinking to get the OEM pump but unfortunately even after waiting for over 2months and enquiring in a lot of KTM showrooms I'm unable to source the fuel pump. I'm disappointed by ktm's spare parts availability.Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
Yes, the aftermarket pumps are decent enough. OEM is expensive, primarily because you get the complete assembly and not the motor alone. Here, a CBR 250 that I know of that had its fuel pump motor bust and a replacement was sourced from Amazon and it's so far so good, touchwood.
What I'd suggest, a last ditch method of recovering the pump assembly. Remove the fuel pump, clean it thoroughly if you can, replace the in line fuel filter, remove/scrub the rust by applying WD40/Rustlick liberally and try running the pump motor connecting it to a battery, and douse the internals with rust cleaners while running the motor for a few seconds. If you've never cleaned your throttle body, and fuel injector, it's high time you consider this mandatory, since you'll be removing the tank it's wiser and easier to remove the throttle body and the injector for their service.
Good luck.
Cheers!
VJLeave a comment:
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The service center guys say that the pump needs to be replaced and I was thinking to get the OEM pump but unfortunately even after waiting for over 2months and enquiring in a lot of KTM showrooms I'm unable to source the fuel pump. I'm disappointed by ktm spare parts availability.Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
Yes, the aftermarket pumps are decent enough. OEM is expensive, primarily because you get the complete assembly and not the motor alone. Here, a CBR 250 that I know of that had its fuel pump motor bust and a replacement was sourced from Amazon and it's so far so good, touchwood.
What I'd suggest, a last ditch method of recovering the pump assembly. Remove the fuel pump, clean it thoroughly if you can, replace the in line fuel filter, remove/scrub the rust by applying WD40/Rustlick liberally and try running the pump motor connecting it to a battery, and douse the internals with rust cleaners while running the motor for a few seconds. If you've never cleaned your throttle body, and fuel injector, it's high time you consider this mandatory, since you'll be removing the tank it's wiser and easier to remove the throttle body and the injector for their service.
Good luck.
Cheers!
VJLeave a comment:
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