Yup, it happened long back, new Piston kit came in effective from July 2020. Mine was the last kit made in June 2020 with old price and old forged built quality.

New one appears to be no longer Forged Piston(attached pics), has KTM India has silently downgraded from aluminum forged to aluminum cast/machined pistons as part of cost cutting? and its no longer imported anymore and made here locally by Indian vendors, hence the ₹5000 price cut.

Also heard from my mechanic that Nikasil coasting has been removed, not got confirmation on this(still a myth as of now).
Will be used common across new Husqi 401, 390 ADV, D390, RC390.

deadlock69 is running the new kit from Sep 2020

New kit 36JY0251, MRP 8188. deadlock69's kit


Old kit 36JP0031, MRP 13194. Mine


New non-forged piston kit, deadlock69's kit


Old forged piston kit, mine.


Difference between two old forged vs new non-forged pistons are pretty much clear right from pics.

the block piston kit for the 390 now costs around Rs.8200, down from the prev Rs.13000 !! for 14k you get a new cyl head and the block piston kit now.. just saw the new prices today at the svc.

Unlike the SMT based box relays, the one on RC390 is a solenoid relay it barely ever fails.
If you do hear the "tak" "tak" after hitting pressing the starter button then it is from the starter relay which is fine, the sound is from relay clicking and battery is also new.

What you might have is weak starter motor, either worn out Carbon brushes or Armature inside. If you bike has done around 20-40K kms, depending on number ON-OFF cycles, it be only the Carbon brushes.

Thanks..battery is new..its starter relay issue...will get it checked next month..

A weak battery and a faulty relay will cause the same problem. I would suggest you start off by inspecting your starter relay. A relay that's working intermittently will cause the starter to not spin up and cause a "khrrr" or "khat khat" when you press the starter button. While doing so, get your battery voltage and health checked, you just never know. Get it inspected at your SVC.

Cheers!
VJ

Hello..today i faced starting issue..basically i was riding it & stopped to check for directions switching off engine as well. I tried starting it after like 1 min but faced issue ..it was just giving tak sound but not starting ..everything else like horn ,indicator was working fine,i called my ktm guy and he advised me to temp connect 2 points ( i think which connect starter to battery not sure whats its called)near battery with some metal ( just placing on top lightly) than press starter and it worked ,there was no issues faced after..not sure what happened there as he just said no worry but does some one have any idea about it.i will get it checked at ASC next month when i will give her for service.thanks

Finally crossed 1K kms after the full top-end rebuild, due to COVID running has gone down significantly hence took 4+ months just to cover 1K kms! Which should have ideally taken 1 month!

Out of 1K kms, 550 odd kms was purely highway miles, so I did open up the engine a bit constantly varying the rpm from 3000-6000rpm and occasionally touching the 7000rpm for couple of a seconds and using the engine braking for slowing down to work on the seating and back-pressure.
Rest of the miles covered was in city traffic puttering around at city speeds.

Followed all the break-in rituals,
1) Warming up the engine morning 2-3mins with bike on flat surface before the ride. Wait for coolant temp bars to reach 8 bars operating temperature before pushing the engine.
2) Check every morning all fluid level, nuts, bolts, for coolant mixing and for any oil leaks or smoke and for any wired sounds before and after the ride.
3) Always ran with full tank-to-tank fuel and stick to same fuel station(BP the one who I trust in my area from last 12years).

Overall feedback and impression till now,
1) Engine runs perfect, the power is spot on(I feel under me it definitely makes more than 43.5ps to crank) its better and more raw than what came from the factory.
2) No power hiccups or clutch slipping or powerloss at speeds and during acceleration.
3) Throttle delivery is more refined(the old jerky on-off fuel delivery in slow speeds is no longer seen).
4) Gear shifts are instant and seamless(no Thud or Tak sounds).
5) Bike doesn't bog down in-between gear shifts during clutch-in.

Got the first service/inspection done at 1057 kms,
1) All the seals, gaskets, hoses, casings, oil and coolant level was proper. No oil leaks, no oil burning, no smell, no coolant mixing, no wired tappet/shim/timing noise. Did a through inspection.
2) Re-checked/tightened all the chassis and engine mount bolts and nuts.
3) Checked for any fault codes and increased the shift RPM's light.
4) Adjusted the clutch and chain.
5) Did not drain/change/top-up the oil, will be doing a complete drain at 2500kms.



Overall, I'm happy with the bike and end result of the engine rebuild. Feels and rides better than new from factory.
Can say rebuild is a success and was not a catastrophic failure.

There is no point repairing a faulty rear shock or for that matter a leaking fork. The ideal way is to replace the rear shock absorber. You can look anywhere from 4 to 5k for the rear monoshock.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Guys my rear mono shock is leaking badly. Any idea if it can be repaired? Also what is the approx cost of replacement?

Just to add to what other Bhpians have added and taking in your earlier posts too. Your false shifts can be as simple as adjustment to the tie rod assembly, sometimes the leverage you provide on the shift lever doesn't completely engage the gear and hence slips. Get your gear shift freeplay slack checked and see if it helps. Secondly, a bike that is idle and made sit for a while has a high probability of throwing tantrums sooner or later, the reasons are aplenty right from dirty/old fuel, clogged filters, et cetera. Start off by inspecting the old fuel, if your bike has stagnated fuel for more than 2 to 3 months, drain the old fuel completely and try using ADON-P or System G they help remove a little of the fuel system deposits and help recover the lost performance. Try this on a tankful method.

Regarding brake sponginess, I'd recommend you rebleed the system if your SVC didn't replace and bled the brake system and just replaced the pads instead. If that's the case, rebleed the system thoroughly, as ABS systems need to be thoroughly bled.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

LED Projector installation step by step process.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

can't say for sure without riding the bike about the clutch plates. you could get the fuel tank cleaned and fill with fresh fuel along with a new fuel filter. And also get the throttle body cleaned. and see if the throttle response improves. also make sure the chain is cleaned, well lubed and adjusted to spec and the tires pressures are correct.

coming to the gear shift issues/false neutrals. first start of by adjusting the shift lever slightly lower and see if that helps.
if not you might need to replace any/all of these parts:
1. gear shift shaft assembly (comes with the spring)
2. shift stopper drum
3. the spring that holds the shift stopper drum - a weak spring can cause these false neutrals/not shifting into next gear type of issues
4. gear shifting star (correct part name iirc is called 'guide')
to replace these parts all you need to open is the rhs clutch cover and the clutch basket. only closer inspection will tell you what needs to be replaced. usual suspect is the shift shaft assy or the spring
these parts dont cost much.. all together around 800 bucks, plus say around 400 in labor.
basically what happens when you shift is, the gear lever action causes the star to rotate and the shift stopper drum has a bearing on its end that 'slots' into the star giving you that 'click' feeling that the gear has engaged and prevents jumping up gears (basically one gear at a time up/down).. if this is getting stuck and not slotting in then you have a false neutral.

here is a link to a very old post of mine https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcy...ml#post1120613
for a clear pic zoom in to see what i have marked , the gear shift shaft is missing, it goes into the hole on the left and it connects to the star with its 'teeth' on either end. https://ibb.co/rs7rL3b

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

KTM sintered brake pads are not 100% fully qualified to be called as fully sintered brake pads like EBC, they lose their property very soon. So ya don't expect much from them. Swap it to EBC HH next time.

Fuel pump cannot die so soon, your bike is only 16K kms and 3 years old.
If bike was perfectly fine before lockdown and suddenly acting like this post lockdown means, If you parked the bike long for long months with fuel in it, usually Petrol lose its property 3-4months time inside fuel tank and starts to become bad chemically and start separating, they form sludge too.

Better drain the old fuel, change fine fuel filter. Get done cleaning the injectors, throttle body so that all sludge could be blocking the injector jets and flushed and change spark-plug.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

[MENTION=59090]kiran2508[/MENTION] The brake pads were replaced at the KTM service centre,the sintered ones that comes with KTM packing.
Right after the pad change it had very good initial bite and stopped as desired.
As days passed it turned spongy after about 300kms.
And Any idea of what would be the suspected issue regarding the drop in acceleration?
The clutch behaviour seems fine to me.
Is there anything to do with the fuel pump?
As the bike was rarely ridden and was kept idle.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Brakes - Get the Major kit checked for dragging and check for any air bubbles. Is the pads from EBC or any other brand? There are so many fake EBC products running out in the market, it helps to mention from where you bought them too to see if its genuine.
Clutch - There is not need to change clutch even upto 30K kms+, myself having ridden, dragging the clutch in bumper-bumper traffic, occasionally clutch slipping, half clutching etc etc they still last easily 30-35K kms.
GearShift - Get the oil changed after bike was parked for longtime during lockdown, stick to changing full oil under 3000-3500kms and only Motul 7100 10W50 or 20W50. Get the "gear shift rod return spring" checked, which is responsible for gear lever to return back to middle position always to middle after once you shift up/down.