The 10000km service of Safeena was done last week-all routine stuff-oil change,air filter cleaning,sparkplug clean,nut bolt tightening etc-rear brake pads were replaced with new OE ones- - the rear passenger footpeg was broken and the dealer did not have it in stock-the dealer will change the front cone set bearings under warranty as and when they receive it in stock-have also ordered a spare clutch cable,front chain sprocket and will change them also as preventive measures.Rest all Okay and Safeena is plugging on smoothly .

Regarding the dent in the tank, I would recommend u to stick a sticker off ur choice on the dented area, so it wouldn't be noticeable. I don't think it's possible to claim insurance for dent in tank, that's what my service center told me.
If you come across any one who does Paintless dent removal (PDR), then u can try that

I have been having similar questions to yours and still cannot firmly say one is better than the other.

I agree that the crash guards with the two point system seem excessively soft. I once dropped my bike from standstill and the crash guard had bent so much that I had to replace it.

I still think that the two point system is probably better for crashes. The best scenario in a crash would be to dissipate the energy away from the rider and critical portions of the bike. As the two point crash guards easily bend, after taking the first impact, they will not be transferring a lot of energy to the chassis of the bike. In fact, beyond a certain force, they would break off the mounting points. You would notice that even if the bars themselves are thick, at the mounting point, it is fairly thin. That is probably a good thing.

Now, we can try to think about crash guards with three mounting points, especially with a rod going through the chassis. This connecting rod will give extra rigidity and make the crash guard and the bike a tight unit. This is probably not what we want.

Imagine that you are riding, you slip at a corner and you are sliding forward. In addition to the impact on the ground, there will be a force acting on the crash guard parallel to the sliding bike due to friction trying to bring you to a stop. This parallel force will cause a torque force at the mounting point. Since there is a rod going through this mounting point to the crash guard on the other side and the guard on the other side is secure with two other mounting points, it will counteract the torque force via the connecting rod. So you will have pushing pulling forces acting on this connecting rod. So if this rod is going through the chassis, there is probably some strain caused on the chassis. What if this strain is transferred to the welded points of the chassis?

Having said this, I think there is some crash guard design I saw for the himalayan where the rod does not go through the chassis , but actually is exposed and goes under the bash plate. This probably a better design as it avoids the chassis.


Hope this helps.

Hi, guys. Wanted to get your thoughts on the right crash guards/bars for the Himalayan. I have been pondering over it for a while, and there seem to be two main designs – 2-point mounts and three-point mounts. My main dilemma is between the original RE crash bars which are two-point mounts (https://youtu.be/i8dm-UEinzc?t=182) and the three-point mount systems like Zana and A4 moto designs (https://youtu.be/6p725pUzgko?t=123). The main difference besides the number of mounting points is that the Zana/A4 ones go through the chassis of the bike by placing an iron rod through the body.

I am unsure about which ones are better. I have heard that the two-point ones bend easier so are better as absorbing the impact. But given how soft they are I think they would only absorb little force before bending all the way and then transferring the rest to the chassis and mounting points anyway. Besides it seems that the three-point mounts would have a better chance at disseminating the impact between three points. Also in the 3point mount design the bars on both sides are basically interconnected via the rod which goes through the body, so there only one real mounting point to the cassis, can that mean that the impact transmitted directly to the body would be less? As of now I am slightly leaning towards the A4 Moto guards.

Do you guys think that the design element of installing the bars through the chassis of the motorcycle can be risky or can caused damage to the chassis in any way, say my imparting more torque in case of a fall?

Lastly, I recently dropped my bike trying to climb a hill, and caused a dent in the tank. I have complete coverage under own-damage, do you guys think I should claim the insurance? I am not really worried about the loss of no claim bonus. How difficult do you think it would be to claim it? My intention is to get the tank replaced, otherwise it isn’t worth claiming the insurance just for repairs. Do you think an inch long and a centimeter-deep dent can be repaired? I am thinking of replacing it as I think if I just repaint it, the original paint being gone, it will eventually end up giving way to rust.

PPF varies according to the company and the gloss level of the said PPF.
I have installed XPEL's Stealth PPF (gives a satin look to matte paint) on my snow white 2020 Himalayan.
I had asked them to wrap my front and rear fender, the tank and the side panels. This costed me 17,600 (without taxes) in Obsessive Compulsive Detailing in Chennai.
Would i recommend satin finish ?
Yes, since the bike looks fancy now.

varunaFRANCE ,it is not visible

​
hello guys . happy new year
here is the guard i had bought in Sofia ( Bulgaria) last year .
Made from a SW MOTECH stuff with better steal ... Hope i might go back there : very nice people

Yup, it seems the news is all around. Good to see some improvements, well, what and how much? Yet to be seen. The component I sorely miss are the knuckle guards, RE should definitely make it an OE one rather than an accessory. If my eye sight is good, seems the calipers have been blackened so ar the exhaust can heat shields. Let's see.

Cheers!
VJ

2021 Himalayan LEAKED

It was a rather funny conversation actually. I told him that I'd like to use another engine oil of the same grade as recommended by RE, and that I'm making it clear before the purchase so as as to avoid hassle I told him I understand that they'd prefer me using the company oil. He smiled and said, "of course, I'm here to do business".
Yes VJ, I will buy the aluminium bar end weights along with the black aluminium handle bar. It's written in the company website that the accessory handle bar isn't compatible with the stock bar end weights. Also I look forward to your inputs, and the rest of the members here on the journey of my ownership experience.
Regarding the cone set issue, there is this youtuber whose channel goes by the name 'leuheanrede'. He suggested using sand paper on the T-stem area underneath the nut bolt. His theory was that due to the part underneath the nut being powder coated, it slips over time. Removing the powder coating makes it all metal contact and hence reduces the frequency in which the nut gets loose. I'll try it out on mine when I get the Himalayan. It's rather fun watching his videos.
It's really tough to wait it out once one has made a decision regarding a purchase. Especially one as beautiful as the Himalayan. I plan on getting PPF done on the tank the day I get the bike. Any idea what it should cost approximately? Have a good day people!

Starting off with the coneset, the Himalayan comes with tapered roller bearings, they stay put just as you would on any normal motorcycle. The bike being heavy, and the braking load concentrated on the front would mean the coneset getting mildly loose at times with a KHAT sound during braking. Getting the T stem slack adjusted in that case solves such an issue. The black bar ends that do come with the loaded Sleet edition and the handle cross bar are a must have. They are extremely well built and they do reduce some vibrations on the handlebar when compared to the stock blocks, strongly recommend the weights along with the handle cross bar, helps reduce handlebar flex.

It's good to hear someone accepting Motul is a better oil than LG, good for you. Keep a good rapport with the SVC Manager and it goes a long way. Good luck, enjoy your ride.

Cheers!
VJ

Hi people. I've booked a snow white Himalayan on December end with a long waiting period. I have owned a Fz 25 earlier and sold that off after two years of ownership, riding 26k kilometres of mountain trips and little bit of commuting.
Regarding the Himalayan, I'm eagerly looking forward to it. Already spoke to the service manager and he reluctantly agreed to let me put engine oil of my choice in the warranty period. I intend to use the Motul semi-synthetic.
Is the Royal Enfield engine guard good? I also plan on getting the aluminium black handle bar with the aluminium bar end weights. Has anyone installed those? And finally, how much of a hassle is the cone set really? Thank you!

Experts have given their thoughts, let me aswell throw a stone at it while I can.

A IC engine is guarded by laws of thermodynamics, so if your oil vanished without any clue and no way to back trace it? Smoke? Mixing? Burning? Crack in casing?
The statement "engine oil was completely gone" needs more detailed post on how it was verified. Was it a dead cold engine, 0 warm up? Was the engine warmed up for 2mins and allowed to cooled for another 2mins? Please fill .... blanks. You are just being overly paranoid be it with bike delivery, how a bike engine operates etc etc. "pick your brains" is fine and fun at times, but request you to please do your do diligence.

It wont hurt if you can drain the oil out into a fresh clean pan, measure the level in a measuring cup and re-pour the same if the level checks. Remember vaccine costs cheaper than operation in OT. A bottle of oil cost ₹800-1000, a rebuild costs ₹25K.

KS, with the engine running, the oil level won't be visible, as the oil is being circulated inside the engine. Stop the engine, wait for 10 mins and if you'll observe the window you can get a correct picture. I'd recommend you to either put your bike on center stand or for an even better judgement, ask someone hold to the bike upright on a flat surface with the engine off and peeping down the window, should get the reading.

Now, if, after the above process has been judiciously followed and yet you still have trouble viewing the oil, or the oil level isn't showing up, don't delay any further and take your bike ASAP to the SVC by topping up a liter to liter and half of engine oil.

I'd recommend you to double check once again with the steps I've mentioned above. Keep us updated.

Cheers!
VJ

If you find that there is less oil in the window after putting the bike on the main stand, please don't jump to the conclusion that your bike is burning oil. Visit A$$ and do topup.
Then keep an eye on the the oil level.
It is very unlikely that the new bike consumes oil at such a pace.

Be easy on the bike and the A$$ and enjoy the ride.

Regards
Mandar