Ok, lets start compiling it. I will get it done ASAP after Diwali. Aryan has some of my pics of the Air Filter change. If he does not put them up, I will need them from him to put them up. In the meanwhile I will put up the basic service posts, oil, oil filter change. I will like to have the Torque figures from you too. And I am still waiting for the CD!

Ps; I liked your older avatar!

Yup... do post that thread again guys, It was really handy...

Hi as a new member I am curious to know what exactly the old thread contained

@rossiter:

@ken:

Where are your tips guys ? I hope you have saved them in your pc's. Post them here for us....

And ken: Your bubble screen fitting as well...

@Kriss: Yeah, I'm putting up the pics on how to change the windscreen, oil change and the coolant in due time.

For now, the oil change:

1) Remove left side lower fairings.


2) Start engine, let the engine warm up for a few minutes.



3) Locate engine oil drain bolt, and remove to let the old oil drain out.



4) Remove the old oil filter out. Use an oil filter wrench, or if you don't have one, tap a screwdriver through the old filter and use that to unscrew the oil filter out.



5) Once all the oil, and oil filter is out, screw the bolt back on with the right torque (43 Nm/4.3 m-kg/31 ft-lb).



6) Put in the new oil filter. Before putting it in, dip your finger in some new oil, and wet the rubber o-ring on the filter. Fill the filter with about 500 ml of oil, so that the element can absorb the oil. This is to get the filter working from the get-go. Now put the new filter with the oil in. If you are using the oil filter wrench, torque it back to 17 Nm/1.7 m-kg/12 ft-lb.





7) Now, open the oil cap and fill in the new oil. You will need about 3.2 litres if you are changing the oil filter, and 2.9 litres if changing the oil only. The 2008 R1 runs on 20W40 oil.



8) Close the cap, start the engine, check for any leaks around the work area.

a) If any leaks, retorque the engine bolts, or check over over-torqueing.

9) Put back the fairing.

10) Ride out!

PS: The old oil draining out will be hot. Make sure you do not scald yourself!

waiting for the screen tutorial..

And BTW any updates on your ice engine ??

Something to keep you occupied

i read it man... i guess you posted it before server crash...

Thats red hot like Rakhi sawanth

Changing windscreen on a 2008 YZF-R1



1) Remove the mirrors:

Two sets of bolts under the windscreen, above the speedo console.







Leave the metal round spacers in the sockets! Don't remove!

2) Remove the windscreen:

Gently remove the windscreen. Tap it once on the front to remove it from its slots and slide it outwards.





3) Put in the new windscreen.

In my case, I chose a dark Puig racing screen.

Slide the screen in, and fit it into the slots.



4) Fix the mirrors back:

Make sure the spacers stay in position.





PS: Puig supplied a plastic beading to be fixed around the outer edge of the windscreen. Helps a bit more in reducing wind blast.

Some interesting things:

1) Difference between stock and Puig Racing Screen:



2) Interesting sticker



That's it!

You bet that's interesting
Panels melting due to the windscreen focussing solar energy
Its simple physics and is technically possible. But Ive never thought about something like that happening..

Have you had such 'melting' issues with the 'One's windscreen..?

Well, I think this "Magnifying glass" effect maybe caused in Transparent Windscreens ... like R1's stock screen ...

But, is it really possible in this Opaque & Dark Windscreen? I highly doubt it ...

There is a MISPRINT on the screen. Somewhere, it is written "Sunny Sports" & other place "Sunny Spots" ... Is this "Puig" company a chinese company? Lol just joking ...

Hey Sundar! No melting issues.. although a bar of Dairy Milk that I had placed there while working on the bike was mysteriously soggy by the end

The following mod describes how to remove a catalytic converter on a 2007/08 R1. The reasons why people remove the catalytic converter is varied, ranging from wanting to free up the exhaust flow,(thereby releasing more power), to reducing underseat heat, seeing as how extra power is of no use at least to me.

DISCLAIMER:

1) The catalytic converter breaks down the exhaust gases for toxic emissions and removing it will increase pollution over the long term.Therefore, this writeup is purely in the technical sense, and carrying out this mod on the bike, is upto the owner alone.Please don't shoot the messenger!

2)This wasn't done on the pipes that are on my R1 right now, because I am worried about my warranty, and undecided about the environmental effects. I will be mounting it on and off to see the difference and then take a call on it.

3) It involves some cutting of pipes, welding etc. The work done needs to be spot on,otherwise you'll end up with an exhaust leak at the minimum, or a destroyed Y pipe at the maximum.

On with the procedure.

The catalytic converter is located in two points in the Y pipe of the R1.



We have to cut open the Y pipe just next to them and remove the catalytic converter and weld it back close.

Step 1:

Removing the end cans:

Access the clamp holding the end cans to the Y pipe, and remove the bolts securing the clamp.








After removing the end cans, your bike will look like this:



Step 1 b: Remove the o2 sensor from the Y pipe: The o2 sensor is on the right and will have to be unscrewed from the pipe.

Step 2: Removing the Y pipe from the bike:

At the bottom of the bike, you will find another clamp connecting the other end of the Y pipe to the exhaust joint at the front. Remove that as well.

Then, remove the right rearset panel very gently to avoid twisting your brake hose, and remove the heat shield covering the Y pipe.

The Y pipe will now be free of the bike. Gently remove it from inside the frame.

Now the Y pipe is free and clear.

Step 3: Cutting the Y pipe open.

Now mount the Y pipe onto a bench vise, with a cloth or rag protecting the surface of the pipe from the vise jaws. This will reduce the grip the vise has on the pipe, so keep this in mind while cutting.



Now, use a hacksaw, and start cutting the pipe.





Cut through about 3/4th the dia of the pipe, and stop. Do not cut through the pipe fully!



Now bend the pipe open in such a way that you gain access to the cat con material inside. Make sure you don't bend it at a right angle.

Step 4: Removal of the cat con.

Start removing the cat con. This is an extremely hard and rigid component. It will not come out easily, so be prepared for a tough 15-20 min. I used a hand drill to punch some holes through and then a screw driver and hammer to chip the rest off.



After removing the cat con, your Y pipe will look like this:





Now, for the second part of the cat con.

For this, I mounted the pipe onto a band saw so that I'd get a better cut. I wasn't too happy with the way I cut through the first one, so I used a band saw this time around.



Cutting done, same as last time. Cut through to only about 75% of the pipe width.



Bend open.



Same as last time.. I used a drill to make some massive holes in the cat con and remove the bulk of the stuff.



Cat con removal completed:



Step 5: Welding it close:

Now time to close the pipe up. This requires TIG welding, which is not arc welding. Since I did not have a TIG welding setup, I went to a place which did, and had it done. I tack welded using my welding apparatus, and had the rest done.

You need to make sure the welder compensates for the material lost on the pipe during the cutting. Since the Y pipe is made of steel, he will fill in the gaps with steel and weld it in. Also need to ensure good clean welds, so that you don't get exhaust gas leaks onto your ankle/leg

Pics:













Welding done.. the pipe is now cooling down:



Step 6: Installation:

Now, mount the pipe back on the bike in the exact reverse order followed in removing the bike. Preferably, use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts. All nuts have to be torqued to 10 Nm/1 m-kg on the torque wrench.

Fix back the rearset panels onto the Y pipe.

Connect the o2 sensor back into the Y pipe.

Finally, install the end cans onto the Y pipe. The fasteners here carry a torque of 17 Nm/1.7 m-kg.

Check for any loose ends, or nuts in any of the areas you've worked on. Then switch on the ignition and check for any error codes on the console. f you get an error code, make sure you screwed the o2 sensor in properly.

If all clear, switch on the bike and check for exhaust leaks. Be careful while doing this, because you will be close to extremely hot components. If you find a leak, then re-weld the cut areas on the pipe.

If all clear, then the mod is done!

wow...excellent tutorial!!..completly understood wat to do...now i jus need the R1...hmmm