An awesome thread......its really nice of you to take some time out and create such an awesome database...........

thanks to you man........really appreciate this.......


Uv

@ Akhil : I recommend a tutorial that teaches a rider to adapt to the 150cc - 1000cc jump..

And preferably, a person who is new to superbikes oughta be used as the test subject..
I have one such person in mind

Whadya think..?

Yes, it is needed but I think something of the same sort is already posted by Ken Cool. That thread on driving R1 in cities ... remember?

However, There could be a Checklist like :-- 1. Use Rear Brakes rarely, 2. don't lean a bit on cold tyres or rough roads, etc.....

Such a checklist could be the last moment guide for a 150-1000 Upgrader ... right?

You don't seem to have got the drift buddy
I sure hope Akhil get's the 'subtle' hint

Good to see it done.. Now waiting for the video to hear how it sound.. Hope it will be uploaded today

Haha.. Too bad you're familiar with my R1 otherwise I'd have thought about you for sure!

@mithun: No video yet.. will see how to go about it

From what I remember, you wanted to carry the Cat Con removal operation to reduce underseat heating issues. What is your feedback on that? The operation was successful, but was the outcome as it was desired?

You have brought me to tears with the above statement Akhil

Not sure yet Ken.. that's the only thing that is missing from my writeup. Will upfdate it when I get the chance.

Just kidding buddy..You know I'm good for it

Will come to hear it today.. Started finishing my work in office

Change of Air Filter on the YZF R1.

Take your R1 out of the garage.

Tools required:
1. One (+)Headed Screwdriver.
2. One 5mm Allen Key.
Note: All 5mm Allen bolts carry a tightening Torque of 7Nm. You do not need a paddock stand for this operation.

The procedure is enumerated below:

1.Take off the seat by removing the the two Allen bolts. The Allen key required is 5mm.


2.Removing the seat will give access to the +headed screw which secures the matted side panel. There is one on each side of the bike. Unscrew it and slide it forward out of its grooves as shown here:


3.Removal of this panel will give access to the Allen bolts of the tank on either side. 5mm Allen key to unscrew these bolts:


4.And a similar Allen bolt to be unscrewed at the head of the tank under the yoke:


5.Lift up the tank from the front, it will roll on its hinges still attached at the rear. Prop up the tank with a can and you will see the Air Filter box, black in colour, secured with 9 +headed screws. Unscrew on opposite ends, a little at a go till all of them are undone.


6.Lift up the top of the Air Box and you will see the Air Filter, the intake manifolds and other interesting stuff!

Lift up and remove the filter as shown in the diagram above.

7.Take a new K&N filter (Which is my case) or take OEM filter, I really do not care, make sure it is a new one or a clean one... Notice the two projections on the underside of the filter.

These two projections fit into the notches shown below


Fit the projections into these notches, matching the grooves at the rear and then at the front. With a little practice this becomes easy. It is not easy at the first go. But believe me, it becomes REAL easy getting your hands dirty a little bit.

8.Put back the Air box cover; set the grooves and the screws in the rear first, then set the rest of it. This will make it easier. Tighten the 9 screws.

9.Reverse the process from Step 4.

I hope you managed to follow the instructions. Try it out, it is fun. Please feel free to ask for any details. Next, in a few days we will show you how to clean a K&N lifetime filter.

Crisp and clear writeup. Good work Ken..

And I did get a chance to try out the cat-con-less R1. It has a drastic effect on the heat in traffic, and the buildup in the temp gauge is a lot more slower. The frame still heats up as much as before though.

Notable side-effects include, faster than before jump to the shift light indicator, and a meaner exhaust note at idle.

Its meaner when its idles but for some reason when you were around 4-5k RPM (i think)its sounded quite..

^ That's interesting, something I'd wanted to try too. The cat-con I guess is in the root of the 'Y' splitter pipe section. Another guess: its an interference fit so removal is the hard way - hammering. The honeycomb can probably be drilled out easily but the sleeve would need an arbor and a mallet.

Nice to know about the reduced heat build-up. Seems relevant though as the gas flows out freer now. Wonder if the drastically reduced back-pressure is accommodated well within the envelope of the ECU. The lambda readings would be quite different without the cat-con.

The frame heating is the result of direct heat transfer from the engine body so I don't think it will be any different with/without the cat-con.

And now that it (the cat-con) is out for good, will sure like to give the un-constipated '1 a try when we get there on the trip.

Keep us posted on anything unusual post c-c removal.

OF: Yes the lambda readings change were a concern for me as well. But then the ECU seems to have compensated for the change quite easily. No signs of lean burning or any other negative effects.

As for the cat con.. the honeycomb is glued to the walls of the Y pipe with an adhesive. There was a clear layer of adhesive that I had to scrape off after the major part was removed using the drill.

The benefits are clear, substantial enough to give it a shot on the R1s you guys are riding down. Maybe you can have one without and one with the cat, for clear comparison.

In any case, it should make for a good notes comparison when you guys are down here! Welcome in advance

EDIT: The locations of the cat con is here. So you can cut on either side and bend it out. I had included this image link in my original write up but for some reason it's not getting displayed.