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**yamdoot** · 10-13-2011, 07:17 PM

Originally posted by dafc View Post

how would that help? The problem is with the CDI not the way it generates electricity.

Guys I have back off of the timing

Ohh maan.. look at that! that vid is an eyeopener!

We have some experienced members here running on stock CDIs on their stock/ modded bikes, request them and am sure they should be able to explain in detail.

**BigBore** · 10-14-2011, 01:12 PM

Nice thread Rustam! I am loving it

Cheers!!

**yamdoot** · 10-16-2011, 05:36 PM

Originally posted by dafc View Post

RX lads here's a video that'll rob you off your sleep LOL

timing locked in full advance and jumping around at rev - YouTube

make sure you watch it in 720p

The thread seems to be dead already Dafc! I think ppl didnt post cos they just dont know what is happening in the video and 'timing' is an alien word for most.

**dafc** · 10-16-2011, 05:46 PM

Originally posted by yamdoot View Post

The thread seems to be dead already Dafc! I think ppl didnt post cos they just dont know what is happening in the video and 'timing' is an alien word for most.

Well for those who don't know exactly what's wrong you see the mark on the rotor that's aligned with the reference mark on the case, well under all kinds of revs these 2 marks should always stay aligned because RX has a static CDI. When I rev the motor in this video the mark on the rotor disappears for a moment and then comes back again, this is called a "timing jump" i.e. the spark is not consistently firing at the same crank angle. This is really really BAD for the motor and this is what eats it inside out (well if you are running on good jetting and your 2t oil, petrol are good this thing is the root of all evil). If your RX has this problem you SHOULD address it asap.

**yamdoot** · 10-16-2011, 05:54 PM

Originally posted by dafc View Post

Well for those who don't know exactly what's wrong you see the mark on the rotor that's aligned with the reference mark on the case, well under all kinds of revs these 2 marks should always stay aligned because RX has a static CDI. If your RX has this problem you SHOULD address it asap.

All RXs on stock CDIs have this problem.

**rohitsapru** · 10-16-2011, 11:20 PM

Originally posted by dafc View Post

When I rev the motor in this video the mark on the rotor disappears for a moment and then comes back again, this is called a "timing jump" i.e. the spark is not consistently firing at the same crank angle.

I have observed the same on stock RX100 CDI. And this does not happen with the RDD CDI.

Well Dafc buddy, as I have said elsewhere, on a stock setup with stock CDI and stator plate, you cannot (and you should not) modify the timing, unless you drill holes. If you are using genuine parts (generator assembly and CDI), just run the stock CDI with whatever timing the machine gives you. There are probably thousands (or is it lakhs) of RX singles in India on stock CDI and running for lakhs of kms, so it can't be all that bad. Performance might be taking a hit due to static and jumping timing, but I guess we can live with that.

Try to optimize other areas like jetting so that your bike runs close to (or better than) stock. Can't expect too much from an 11 bhp street setup right. Of course you can upgrade your generator assembly and CDI and 12V all that, but its rather expensive!

**Bluesmoke** · 10-16-2011, 11:28 PM

Scared now man...

I guess I'll have to check this with an experienced mech...

Does the stock CDI of the RX135 have this problem as well?

**rohitsapru** · 10-17-2011, 12:32 AM

If your bike is running fine, then don't bother with the timing.

We can definitely find shortcomings in the bike that came from the factory. Ignition timing and port timing, to name a few. There are lot of options available in the market to tune and refine the setup. Which depends on the owner's needs and requirements.

**yamdoot** · 10-17-2011, 12:43 AM

Originally posted by rohitsapru View Post

I have observed the same on stock RX100 CDI. And this does not happen with the RDD CDI.

Try to optimize other areas like jetting so that your bike runs close to (or better than) stock. Can't expect too much from an 11 bhp street setup right. Of course you can upgrade your generator assembly and CDI and 12V all that, but its rather expensive!

Originally posted by Bluesmoke View Post

Scared now man...

I guess I'll have to check this with an experienced mech...

Does the stock CDI of the RX135 have this problem as well?

Originally posted by rohitsapru View Post

If your bike is running fine, then don't bother with the timing.

We can definitely find shortcomings in the bike that came from the factory. Ignition timing and port timing, to name a few. There are lot of options available in the market to tune and refine the setup. Which depends on the owner's needs and requirements.

Rohits right. Stock performance can be improved by doing a few things like port polishing/ clean up, better reeds, a decent chamber, better filter, sprocketing and yes, a plug like the Iridium if your bike doesnt have the RDD CDI. With these mods, you can gain better performance and the bike will be more fun and reliable at the same time.
Never go into things like 'porting' etc. [unless ofc. you want to race]

**dafc** · 10-17-2011, 05:54 AM

Originally posted by rohitsapru View Post

I have observed the same on stock RX100 CDI. And this does not happen with the RDD CDI.

Well Dafc buddy, as I have said elsewhere, on a stock setup with stock CDI and stator plate, you cannot (and you should not) modify the timing, unless you drill holes. If you are using genuine parts (generator assembly and CDI), just run the stock CDI with whatever timing the machine gives you. There are probably thousands (or is it lakhs) of RX singles in India on stock CDI and running for lakhs of kms, so it can't be all that bad. Performance might be taking a hit due to static and jumping timing, but I guess we can live with that.

Try to optimize other areas like jetting so that your bike runs close to (or better than) stock. Can't expect too much from an 11 bhp street setup right. Of course you can upgrade your generator assembly and CDI and 12V all that, but its rather expensive!

YAAAY!! I have retarded the timing by a few degrees from the max, the motor runs cooler than it used to, the white tan on one side of the plug as you saw on the other forum is gone. I gotta wait at least a week before I post pics of the plug after the retard. Plus the vibes that I used to get at 70ish, bike would vibrate like hell as if it was about to fall apart on the road, are gone only grime is the initial has dropped a little but I can live with that.

**rohitsapru** · 10-17-2011, 02:54 PM

Originally posted by dafc View Post

YAAAY!! I have retarded the timing by a few degrees from the max, the motor runs cooler than it used to, the white tan on one side of the plug as you saw on the other forum is gone. I gotta wait at least a week before I post pics of the plug after the retard. Plus the vibes that I used to get at 70ish, bike would vibrate like hell as if it was about to fall apart on the road, are gone only grime is the initial has dropped a little but I can live with that.

Nice, very nice. This is true DIY tuning. A welcome change from the cosmetic and historical discussions we usually see.

The changes you have observed are in accordance with what I have read on this topic. Retarding the ignition timing has an effect of making the bike run rich, whereas advancing the timing makes it run lean. You retarded it, that is why the whitish color on the spark plug has gone. I have also read that advancing the timing makes the bike run hotter, and gives the feeling that the pickup & power has increased. So after retarding, its running cooler and the pickup has dropped. This is also as expected.

I have one query though. How did you retard the timing? The stock coil plate has two diametrically opposite holes where you screw in the plate. I may be wrong but the hole is only big enough to put in the screw, there isn't any scope for movement.

Did you enlarge the holes slightly to move the screws around, which is necessary to change the position of the coil plate (and hence the position of the pulsar coil) to change the timing?

**dafc** · 10-17-2011, 06:40 PM

Originally posted by rohitsapru View Post

Did you enlarge the holes slightly to move the screws around, which is necessary to change the position of the coil plate (and hence the position of the pulsar coil) to change the timing?

and that's exactly what I did, I loaned a drill and a bit which was roughly as "fat" as the screw that holds the baseplate in place. I enlarged the holes in clockwise direction so the final effect was the whole baseplate was displaced in a counter clockwise direction and hence retarding the timing

**rohitsapru** · 10-17-2011, 08:33 PM

Cool man, that explains. So the spark plug does really tell us a lot. Not just about jetting, but about timing as well. A microscope will help in reading the plug even better. Cheers mate enjoy!

**shreyassave** · 10-17-2011, 08:47 PM

Great!

Originally posted by dafc View Post

YAAAY!! I have retarded the timing by a few degrees from the max, the motor runs cooler than it used to, the white tan on one side of the plug as you saw on the other forum is gone. I gotta wait at least a week before I post pics of the plug after the retard. Plus the vibes that I used to get at 70ish, bike would vibrate like hell as if it was about to fall apart on the road, are gone only grime is the initial has dropped a little but I can live with that.

Good work there mate!
I wonder how you do this stuff..
Great job!

**dafc** · 10-17-2011, 09:29 PM

Originally posted by shreyassave View Post

Good work there mate!
I wonder how you do this stuff..
Great job!

reaaaaaaad a LOT and don't hesitate to ask questions.

Originally posted by rohitsapru View Post

Cool man, that explains. So the spark plug does really tell us a lot. Not just about jetting, but about timing as well. A microscope will help in reading the plug even better. Cheers mate enjoy!

Yup!!! Timing, detonation, jetting etc etc everything is there! if I remember Ron had a handy microscope thingy up for grabs that could magnify upto 100x

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