Having passed Rothang was a great boost to our team's morale.


Every turn you take there is a huge peak. There are no words to describe how majestic the Himalayan mountain ranges are.


The roads just after Rothang was fantastic. Little did we know that all this was going to change.


Guys, do you know what this is? It is quick sand. I stopped to pee. I saw clear water flowing on sand. I forgot the basics. If you see water flowing on sand, it has to be a quick sand. My gum boots acted like a suction and pulled me in.


The Peaks spoke about its beauty.


The good roads slowly disappeared.


Offroading began all the way to Sarchu


And the mud roads went on


The mud slowed us down, but the weather was extraordinarily beautiful.


Poli sometimes had to walk.


Descending roads


crossing the many water falls


Some roads looked good from a distant


sometimes following streams


The journey continued and documented in detail by Poli


Some bridges looked so scary, I prayed the heavy bull did not go through the holes in the bridge. Most bridges said, one vehicle at a time, but was seldom followed.


Just after Khoksar


Water, water everywhere, like the veins of the mountain.


Mountain cliffs, just so beautiful.


Endless beauty if you pause for a moment and forget the time frame to reach your destination.


Always keeping Pruthvi in sight


Just clicked away


As we approached the base of Baralacha La you could see more mountain ranges.


BSNL had range most of the places


We halted at Tashi Ghatsal Restaurant just after Keylong for lunch and refreshing. We make friends with the owner and got contacts for Sarchu tents and Leh hotel. This man was very helpful and we thanked him loads.


I was happy to stop at a proper restaurant to eat food.


I was shocked when offered Snakes!!!


The view from the Hotel rear was - Oxford dictionary, let me check!!!

As we headed further we saw Hotel Ibex - This hotel name caught my eyes as I heard negative things about this place - whatever.


We crossed Jispa


On the way to Darcha


We were descending and looked like a bridge was ahead. Which also meant another climb - which in turn explains we will be climbing Baralacha La.


Everytime we saw Tarmac we knew a town was ahead.


What I thought was some Dhabas turned out to be Checkpost ahead.


Registering after Darcha.


First crossed an Iron bridge, was confident.


Then the wooden bridge, always scary about it.


What appears to be a man, a Shepperd sitting on the edge


Wild flowers we saw, the ascend started.


Along with it came some water crossings


the other end of the water crossing


Came across this small spectacular clear blue pond


We were at Patsio, Baralacha La was not far.


As we climbed it became cold


We saw some grey clouds, a rain at this time would have been a disaster. We had to reach Sarchu.


An Army camp in the middle of nowhere gave me confidence. It means, we are not alone.


A small detour beside the military camp.


The sun was disappearing fast. Crossing Baralacha La ASAP was top priority.


As we climbed we got more daylight. Worry was after Baralacha La, the descent, we would loose light quickly.


The temperature dipped as we climbed


The mountains were endless


With temperature dipping we had to get our warm clothes on.


We were going towards the darker side of the hills.


It was cold, no doubt, but the beauty never seized.


Although we had to reach Sarchu before nightfall, we had to take a break when needed. It was vital to keep ourselves focused.


We continued


Sometimes the sun played games. The clouds make it look like sunset


Another peak towards Baralacha La


The mountains and my white helmet


Another view just to watch


Some patched had good roads


wehat looked like a landslide


No words for caption


Pruthvi tailing


When we turned back to see how we were climbing, we were awe struck!


Poli just clicked away and captured some of the best pics I ever saw in my life.


In the game of Sun and Shade.


360degrees from my bull.


Some pictures have deep meaning but look plain


While the hills enjoyed the shade, the rocks enjoyed the sun.


There isn't a picture I can omit and not show you people


Look at the sky and mountains dancing away.


The sky and clouds imprinted on Poli's visor.




The final break before Baralacha La




Next comes Baralacha La


Baralacha La was spectacular. With glacier melted pools and small water crossing. The roads were fantastic.




How can we not want to preserve the last untouched wilderness our country has.




You have to respect the magnitude of these mountain and ice sheets.






A water crossing






Pruthvi was feeling very cold




The only vehicle we came across in hours


As we exit Baralacha La










A massive Ice sheet bid us goodbye


The water streams were crystal clear.


Some areas were a little scary.


We said good bye to Baralacha La


The most amazing experience in the Manali Leh Route.

After this picture we crossed one more stream which was the deepest and Poli's leg got immersed in ice cold water. With the sun almost down and temperature dipping, she almost went into shock. We clicked no more pictures while descending and headed straight to Sarchu, just in time. The sun had already set and it was dead cold in Sarchu.

Stay tuned for Sarchu to Leh episode.

The 2 small tents we stayed at

The kitchen tent where campers gathered at night. Kitchen was warm as cooking was being done here.


The large (owner's) tent I slept in at night (to the right).



In the morning I saw the military camps far ahead. I saw a tent with a red + sign. It was a medical camp I suppose.



Morning Sarchu was beautiful. We were told to leave early by 7 to Reach Leh before nightfall. But we were the last ones to leave at 09:00AM. Nothing to worry was our confidence. Riding all the way from Hyderabad, we told ourselves, bring it on.



Owner of the tent requested all pictures of his tent, I emailed him. I promised to write about him, my way of saying - Thank you.



We all felt so good in the morning. I had this deep thought in me. Looking at the mountains ahead, I told myself. "If you dont stay strong, these mountains will consume you." This area was dead communication zone. No mobile phone network facility for miles both ways.



1 Hour before we left. I insisted we take a picture together. Thanks to Poli.


Poli straight away started clicking pictures. She seemed tireless. My bull struggled for about 10 kilometers before it settled at a constant Engine idle speed.


I was warned by the tent owner to cover Tanglang La by 3PM. He did not say much why. We were going to cover 2 more higher passes, Lachulung La and Tanglang La. Hell yeah, I know why he wanted me to pass them before sunset.


We were going towards Gata Loops.


The morning after Sarchu was so beautiful.


The landscape however started to change. It more sort of became the desert of Ladakh.


Somewhere towards Gata Loops, Poli clicked this.


As we were climbing the Gata Loops lower end


Some peaks just seemed barren.


We covered the Gata loops lower end quickly, there wasn't any serious off-road biking.


Then soon came the Gata Loops upper end, which is famous for its curvy road pics.


An angle we shot.


After we climbed Gata Loops


You see a truck in this pic? The mountains slowly eating it away. Looks abandoned to me.


A closer shot


Pruthvi tailing


When we turned back.. wow, the path we climbed. With 19 more Kilometers left to Lachulung La and no time to waste. Target was to cover by noon. And we did it.


We reached Lachulung La gun on time. You can see the shadow. it was just noon. I was in no mood to wait. Tanglang La was Top priority in 3 hours.


Pruthvi Checking out if I was ok, especially after last night.


But Poli did not stop. We had a deal when this journey began. Poli will be our Navigator and Photographer. She fulfilled her duty.


Before we continued.


Next stop was Pang, 24 Kilometers away.


As you can see, Sarchu to Leh was like crossing a desert. I sometimes felt I was color blind


If I remember correct. This was the only descent water stream i crossed. The crossing was concrete. Smooth and easy.


The roads here colorless, so hard to distinguish stones, hard sand and soft sand. At one point, I rode on loose sand which looked hard and almost ran off the cliff. It was a serious moment when I stopped and reassessed how to bike.


The milestone reminded me, move on buddy. You got to reach Leh tonight.


Crystal clear sky was a blessing. However it reflected on the white sand road and blinded me. Without sunglasses you can forget biking.


These areas, so deserted, so isolated. I just wanted to get out of here.


These cliffs, what a scene. Loose stones kept falling once a while.


BRO. Heroes. Give national awards to these laborers who work tireless and selfless.


We climbed that bridge.


See a small cyclist climbing near the curve. I saw many foreign cyclists. I saluted their courage.


Coming to remember, although we stopped at Pang, we did not click any pictures. I think we were all a little tense about crossing Tang La on time


We saw many desert caves but did not have the cameras to zoom in.


At Pang we enquired about road conditions in Moore plains and ahead. We were told the roads were fantastic. Turned out to be completely false.


I couldnt believe the Shepperds lived here too. These bunch of ponies made us look like fools. Each time we took a curve and descended, these Ponies already reached ahead of us.


That what Im talking about bro.. You ain't better than me - the Ponies told me.


We finally overtook the ponies when the descent ended


Then suddenly the mountains disappeared. I knew. This is the beginning of Moore plains.


Welcome to the 42 Kilometer stretch of Horror. Pictures are deceptive. When I first saw the roads to Moore Plains, I thought I was bless by God. What beauty. What roads. I calculated, now Leh should be easy. Damn wrong.


As far as the eyes could see


After few kilometers the roads became narrower


Geographically, Moore plains is one of the most beautiful places in Ladakh. Spectacular. Desert. Such beauty.


This continued for some 10 to 15 Kilometers, Its beautiful.


Pruthvi was in the front, I tailed him all the way.


I just cannot explain the white plains and red hills. What is the chemistry here. There has to be deep meaning in how this landscape was formed.


The Moore plains road suddenly seized to exist. These gravel and sand mixture is a recipe for disaster. I could not cross 40km/h. How many times i had to hold the handle bar so hard.


There were many offroad tracks. I had to take a calculative decision and pic the one best for my bull. Pruthvi took some routes which he felt comfortable.

Moore Plain Incident: On a similar stretch we reached a detour and the already bad road was dug up so deep. I had 2 choices. Go right where the roads do not exist at all. Or take a left which is pure desert sand. Just like the ones on sand dune. There was a Scorpio with a family in it and an Innova filled with young men tourists. The Scorpio drive told me. "Be very careful, do not stop for anyone, no matter how serious" He took off. The Innova youngsters got out of their car and told me. "There are 2 detours. Both have to be taken through knee deep loose sand. Make your way through the top and stop for non. There is a camp with a bunch of men who will try to stop you on the pretex of asking for help or for drinking water. Do not stop under any circumstance. They will ensure your bike get stuck in sand and extort money from you for pulling the bike out of sand " I was shocked. I asked Poli to walk, take a safer route. There was no way my bull would pass that sand with all the load. Seems the Innova was pulled out Sand by the Scorpio. Just as I was warned, a bunch of men almost jumped in front of me while trying to take a detour crossing the already difficult sand. They were asking for help. I just did not stop and once out, I called out to Poli to walk safe. I waved to Pruthvi who almost stopped. I yelled out, DO NOT STOP!!!

Looked to me like a bunch of imported workers taking advantage of innocent travelers. They did not look like Kashmiris or Ladakhis. And they is nothing but Bandits. Have to get all of them arrested.


Already pissed with the above incident, this was the last stretch on Moore plains. I followed an Innova because at this final stretch I lost track of the road and direction. I saw a board pointing eastwards - said Tso Kar, Tso Moriri. I knew Moore plains was over.


The climb to Tanglang La was even worse. And the trucks did not make it easy. I hated this stretch the most because bad roads + climb fully loaded means - Pain. After climbing for what seemed like Eternity. Fully Exhausted I saw a BRO Crane worker. I stopped and asked him. How far more to Tang. He said, you are at Tang. Just around the curve. And he also told me. Suffer for 10 more kilometers and you have excellent roads all the way to Leh. He was spot on.


The last stretch of bad road and the Good Vs. Bad roads border. This is Tanglang La


Pruthvi reached first.


We were exhausted.


Yet Victorious.


The sun was going down fast and we had no time to waste. This was taken somewhere before Uphsi. The stretch from TL to Leh - we had very few pics.


That is the road to Leh my friends. That moon, and it was 840PM when we touched down in LEH. What a journey. I have no words to describe. Few stretches we did not click pictures because either we were tired or we just rode non-stop.

But this is not over. Stay tune for Pictures from Leh and the ride towards Drass.

The next day morning we went to the DC office.


Welcome to Leh


Just around Leh


Navigating through town


The DC office was the easiest thing to find


Getting our permits to Tso Moriri


30 Minutes later we were out with our Permits. What an easy task.


We stopped at a German Cafe, which was not so German in any way.


While Pruthvi went to do his work, I and Poli visited a Monastery.


Peace


We sat at the Monastery for some time and gathered our minds. The next day were were supposed to do Tso Moriri


Making a wish


went to a internet cafe to pay some bills - 90Rs an hour


We went to a Tibetian Market. The lady loved Poli's ring. I support free a Tibet.


Went to Leh's famous Bullet Mechanic 'Mohan Sharma'. Man he was famous. I had to fix the wobbling of the bull. I booked an appointment with him at 430PM. He told me, if you are patient with me, I will take care of your bull with perfection.


A view from Mohan Sharma's shed


So off I went to get my dirty bull washed.


For 100Rs which seemed a good deal. It costs 90Rs back at home. The guy told me that my bull was already cleaner then other bikes he washed. I told him, ofcourse Its my precious baby. It deserves to be clean.


At 05PM Mohan checked my bull and said, its in excellent condition, however your chains are too tight. He re-calibrated the entire chain setup. He wanted to know the exact load bull would carry for the return trip. I gave him an estimate. We changed engine oil and oil filter. Mohan took a test ride. God he was good. The wobbling issue solved 100%. I thanked him tons.


And while all this was happening, this Kid -


Drank that whole Coke bottle


Leh was beautiful. With major mechanical works done, we celebrated at night. I had the best momos and lamb steak of my life. What a fantastic night at LEH.