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The Spiti Marathon
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My best wishes to you brother. Hope you are able to complete what has just started as a thought in your big brain.Originally posted by dcs View PostDear Abhishek and all: If everything goes as planned then come September and we will have something of the similar kinds to be posted in the tourer section. am 98% sure, the rest 1.5% is for the office and 0.5% is for all the other unseen circumstances. Keeping the fingers crossed.
"Mera bhi dimag daud raha hai ab...." !!sigpic
LIFE IS SHORT !!! GO HARD
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So continuing, I looked up this guest house named "Kesang Guest House" where an old comrade Puneet was staying for the past 3 days. Good rooms, loads of blankets and quilts to keep u warm and it was dead cheap : Only 100 a night for the room and all!!
Kaza is pretty ok. I mean, its the sub-district headquarters wherein you've got old kaza and new kaza. I put up in old Kaza,... a lotta Israelis whod' actualy taken the whole place to to themselves...All i could spot was Yak cheese sandwich, mutton momos (swear it was yak too!), a plethora of bullets all around and Marijuana in the air..everywhere!!
Talk about taking pot shots!!
I was reasonalbly tired after all that distance, so after meeting up with Puneet and the girl he was staying with, I decided to call it the day, but not after a good 3 mugs of locally made rice beer (which was actually very pathetic and gave me a headace till 12 am!).
Slept at 1..
Day 2
Woke up at 6:30 .... Good thing was there was hot water available!... Bathing made comfortable..
Shot off to Key Monastary at around 7 30..
Early morning pics:




The key, too, is one of the oldest monastaries around. Good old Mr Priest showed me around and told me age old facts about the monastary..
Key Monastary:


30 mins later I was off to kibber ....
Some where between key & kibber



Kibber
" I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not" - Kurt Cobain
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"Arre tu!!", I exclaimed in astonishment as I saw Shamik (ID: dark_side_of_the_sun) coming up the incline from Kibber. What a coincidence, we meeting up 4100 m ASL, at the ex-world's highest village!
He was off to Chattru for the day, but finally decided to spend one more day in Kaza and ride off the next day with me. Had been resting in kibber for like 2 days. So we had breakfast and headed back to kaza
Ate food, played cards, had some good old kasol stuff along with Puneet and his friend and retired for the night at the guest house. A day to relax ..
The Guest House:

Claim of the world's highest petrol pump:

Was initially planning to go to Komic/Langza and Pin valley but then decided to leave them for next year..
No pics as such..
Day 3
Now this was the day to bring the main reason for my trip : Kunzum ...
Packed our stuff and left "Kesang" pretty early .. around 6, for Losar
Losar is the last village in spiti ... Beyond kunzum, you enter Lahaul..
On the way:




We reached Losar in a couple of hours ... Had fried eggs and allu paranthas there, then conituned without any further delay..
The trail to Kunzum:


At Kunzum, Finally!!! Coudnt help smiling..




Shamik:

From here on the road conditions began to detoriate ...We were having difficulty navigating the bike through those gravel trails..
An hour later we made it till Batal... My rear tyre was again giving me trouble..There were cuts and bruises and was all shaven! Psi reduced to just 5! I crossed my heart, filled the vee-rubber and carried on, after a session of groce maggi!
From Batal:

" I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not" - Kurt Cobain
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Now Batal - Chota dhara was nothing but river bed. You bet, ride your bike on a rocky river bed .. They ought to put a sign up there somewhere..!!!
That said, this was my most wonderful and most memorable stretch of the entire trip... owing to the beauty around and awesome offroading!
Look for yourself ...





It took us 2 hours to cover the 16 km between batal and chot dhara!
At chota dhara


The road quality remained the same. But then again, for me, its the more the merrier ....
We encountered mild snowfall and then lots of rain at chattru which is another 15 kms away from chota-dhara. This delayed our ride by 1.5 hours ...
The Dhaba there:


Anyhow, when the rain did subside, it was 3:30. 9 and a half hours and manali still 80 odd kms away. No worries, we moved on.
Reached gramphoo and hit the manali - leh road ....
Now i was filled with disgust!! Slushy roads, melting ice, and lots and lots and lots ........ of tourists ... They had made there way beyond rohtang too!! Took an hour to reach Rohtang where desiel fumes and horse sh** greeted me!!
Stopped for a fag there and then moved on..
I reiterate, that one should avoid Rohtang during the tourist season ... Its a bundle of junk, thats all!!
Reached Manali after hoarding against long queues .... Took us around 2.5 hours to get from rohtang to manali!
Looked at the watch, it was 8
Looked at Shamik, he had made up his mind to stay back, and so had I.... to move on..
Bid goodbye, had a red bull and left Manali at 8:20 pm
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Time: 4 am
Location: Chandigarh
Total hours travelled in the day : 22 hours
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End of Story...." I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not" - Kurt Cobain
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Ah, the 'Kunzum trail' picture and many other pictures are just priceless! Loved the whole set of pictures and the accompanied text. Was shocked to read that the tyre pressure dropped down to JUST 5 PSI. Did you manage to find out the reason behind this?
Also, looking at these pictures, I have already made up my mind of visiting Spiti yet again, in the coming few months and riding all the way to Kunzum and beyond to Chandrataal, if possible.

Thanks Kurt, for sharing these lovely pictures of a beautiful valley, and the text that accompanied your trip log. I am sure you had a wonderful time riding through some of the most treacherous route that the whole country has to offer! You are a TOUGH rider.:)
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Pictures are breathtaking man....
Kurt hats off to your riding skills...
great man awesome stuff...congrats for your log and pics .... I dont know what to say... u were like riding most of the time of the day.... I hope your bum didnt get squared.
....hats off to you again buddy ..keep it up and keep them coming.... take care and ride safe
Save the Earth - We are the one who are running out of time, as Earth will take it own time to heal but that time may not be enough for us.
http://www.ridesafewith.me
I dont just ride my bikes, I live with them.
Yamaha RX100 (1987 model)
Yamaha YZF R15 (2010 model)
Hero Impulse (2012 model)
Mahindra Thar (2015 model)
GIRed 2012
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I am left speechless too. I love the part in Batal. The dhaba at Chattru has not changed in the past 3 years! Lovely reading through your log. I am only wondering when will I be going back. Spiti valley in 09 seems to be the "Hot" destination for a lot of riders.
And yes, I think in you, a new xBhp legend is born!The Wheel was a great invention; Two Wheels with a Motor in between was even better!
BMW Motorrad Days 2011
Xbhp's Indo-French Kashmir-Ladakh Tour
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