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Note: This is a riding kit maintenance thread - not for 'how much is this so-and-so jacket and lid'. There is a riding gear thread which exists for that - I did not post this there since it would have got lost. Mods, my humble request to make this thread sticky! 
I searched the forums and did not find a thread on this subject, so I created this one. These days, many xbhp members are increasing investing in quality riding gear, spending good money on them. But what after buying them? How does one maintain the expensive, jackets, and helmets and make sure they look as good as new even after many years of use? I was fortunate to start early with quality kit, but had to struggle with finding reliable 'how-to' information when it came to maintaining my kit. So what I have done in this thread is to document some maintenance pointers on how to keep your kit top-notch - all of this is from personal experience over the years, and it would great if other members could also share their learnings and experience as regards to maintaining their riding gear. Here goes...
#1. Helmet maintenance: ( AGV, Akuma, Arai, Bell, HJC, Icon, KBC, Nolan, Scorpion, Shoei, Suomi, Shark, etc)
If you are one of those who bought a top-notch helmet after saving for many months, be assured that you have spent your money wisely. Helmet is undoubtedly the most important part of your riding gear, and one should not cut any corners when buying one since it literally makes a difference between life and death. It is better to postpone buying a Nokia N95/iPhone and spend on a Icon or a HJC lid instead - much better investment!
I will categorize helmet maintenance into three parts:
Outer shell: This is probably most tricky since this is the exposed part and most prone to scratches and bumps. Most of the helmets have a layer of synthetic lacquer on the composite fiber shell and a hard knock to a wall or pointed edge can easily chip it off. Most of the expensive helmets come with a soft microfiber carry bag which is great for keeping the lid clean but offers zero protection from bumps and knocks. So the best way to protect the helmet is to carry it around in a soft bag with a terry lining. I bought a unbranded for about Rs.500 from the US and it has kept my Arai helmet free from all scratches and bumps. These are available plenty online, so sourcing them should not be a problem. Here is a picture of my helmet bag:
And I carry my helmet with me everywhere and never leave it locked on the bike. If you have locked your helmet to your pillion grab rail in a public parking, chances are you will find new scratches and chips on your lid when you come back. Carrying your helmet around can be a pain sometimes, but keeps it pristine. Also make sure NEVER to drop your lid from a height - if you do so, its crash absorption properties will get compromised (though it might appear fine from the outside) and it might not work when you need it most. If you drop your lid badly, it needs to be replaced, no matter how undamaged it looks from the outside.
I clean the surface of the shell using a combination of dry and wet toilet tissues. I first gently rub the surface with a wet tissue and then wipe it clean with the dry issue. Do this weekly and it will keep your surface glossy and clean. If you have vents on the surface, first using a blower/vacuum cleaner to blow out any dust, and then use a damp Johnson& Johnson ear bud to clean out the inaccessible area under the vent covers.
Visors: Visors of premium helmets are usually scratch resistant, and with little care, their life can be extended considerably. I bought spare visors when I got my Arai helmet four years ago, but I still haven't used them! I use the wet-dry tissue technique in a left to right sweeping motion to clean the visor everyday - this also improves vision while riding! Lubrication is also important when it comes to the attachment area where the visor is hinged to the main shell. To do this, detach the visor, wipe it clean and then apply silicon lubricant to the visor area which comes in contact with hinge mechanism. Below is a picture of my silicon lube supply, again easily available online:
Helmet lining: If your helmet has a detachable lining, you have your work cut out for you - simply mix some gentle detergent (like ezee) in a bucket of luke warm water, and soak your lining in it. After 30 mins or so, use a soft wet handkerchief/socks/3M foam to gently rub the lining underwater. Be careful not to use plastic brush or rub vigorously, as it will damage the soft microfiber lining and foam.
For the rest of the helmet with fabric bits which cannot come off, I simply dunk the whole lid into a large bucket with the lukewarm water and repeat the cleaning process as I do for the lining. After the lining and helmet has dried, I use a wet tissue to wipe the surface of the shell and visor and then use a dry tissue. This takes care of any hard water stains.
#2. Full grain leather jackets/pants/one piece leather racing suits/gloves/boots:
Leather gear is easier to clean and maintain as compared to mesh as long as you have the right equipment to do so. With adequate maintenance, full grain leather gear will probably last you a lifetime as long as you don't drop them. The key to leather maintenance is:
Keeping the leather well aired and conditioned (retain tanning oils): Store your leather gear in a well aired place to prevent mold/fungi formation. If you are not using it frequently, try to hang it in the Verandah or near the window once a month. It is also important to keep the leather nourished so that it does not lose its elasticity. There are different leather care emulsions available in the market, but I would like to highlight two brands which are the best when to comes to leather care - Leather Masters (Uniters) and Lexol. A typical leather maintenance kit will consist of two bottles - one will be a leather cleaner and second will be the leather conditioning lotion. I have recommended these two brands because their products are made for high quality leather care, with the right pH balance(of 5.5 or so). Regular cleaners have a pH of 10+, which will strip away tanning chemicals which are needed to keep the leather in good shape. I saw an ad from a leather master distributor in November's Overdrive, so the product is available in India.
UPDATE, November 2015: High quality leather cleaner and conditioner kits are available at the Dainese Store in Orion Mall, Bangalore.
To clean leather gear, get a piece foam or a applicator, and then apply the cleaner over the surface in a circular motion. Once you have cleaned the surface, then wait for around 30 minutes and then start applying the conditioner using the same technique as the cleaner. If you are unsure, it is always better to test the cleaner on a small patch for signs of discoloration. But normally, premium leather gear will not discolor on use of the right cleaners/conditioners. Wash the foam throughly and then dry it for next use. If you are not using your leather gear, I recommend conditioning it once in four months. And if your leather gear gets soaked in the rain, first wipe it with a clean cloth, dry it and then use the cleaner and the conditioner. Water has a way of stripping away essential tanning oils...
In case your gear is a combination of mesh/Cordura and leather (like mine), use a vacuum cleaner with a bristle attachment to suck the dust out of the mesh part and then clean that area with a damp cloth. This works most of the time.
And NEVER dry clean your leathers!
#3. Mesh riding gear: This is easy - try vacuum cleaning the dirt out of the mesh crevices and seams using a bristle attachment. Then use a damp cloth to clean the mesh. Most of the mesh used is synthetic, so it will not absorb water if you run the surface with a damp cloth. And if you have done some serious mud plogging and the cleaning is beyond the abilities of your vacuum cleaner, and hand wash the garment in lukewarm water with a soft detergent. Avoid the machine washing your mesh garments, and NEVER dry clean. Dry cleaning solvents will strip your garment of special finishes (water proofing for example) if your jacket is treated with one. Let the garment hang out in shade and do not wring it - let it drip.
#4. Riding boots: If your boot is made of leather, or has parts of leather, follow the instructions above for leather gear. If your boot has synthetic leather like Lorica, then it is ok to wash them in lukewarm water. Some street/track riding boots have an ankle protection system with a hinge mechanism, so it is important to lubricate them with Silicon gel if it starts creaking. Silicon lube is best for plastic and molded parts.
I think I have covered everything - please feel free to share your experience with your gear. Gear up, and ride safe!!!
UPDATE, November 2015: High quality leather cleaner and conditioner kits are available at the Dainese Store in Orion Mall, Bangalore.
I searched the forums and did not find a thread on this subject, so I created this one. These days, many xbhp members are increasing investing in quality riding gear, spending good money on them. But what after buying them? How does one maintain the expensive, jackets, and helmets and make sure they look as good as new even after many years of use? I was fortunate to start early with quality kit, but had to struggle with finding reliable 'how-to' information when it came to maintaining my kit. So what I have done in this thread is to document some maintenance pointers on how to keep your kit top-notch - all of this is from personal experience over the years, and it would great if other members could also share their learnings and experience as regards to maintaining their riding gear. Here goes...
#1. Helmet maintenance: ( AGV, Akuma, Arai, Bell, HJC, Icon, KBC, Nolan, Scorpion, Shoei, Suomi, Shark, etc)
If you are one of those who bought a top-notch helmet after saving for many months, be assured that you have spent your money wisely. Helmet is undoubtedly the most important part of your riding gear, and one should not cut any corners when buying one since it literally makes a difference between life and death. It is better to postpone buying a Nokia N95/iPhone and spend on a Icon or a HJC lid instead - much better investment!
I will categorize helmet maintenance into three parts:
Outer shell: This is probably most tricky since this is the exposed part and most prone to scratches and bumps. Most of the helmets have a layer of synthetic lacquer on the composite fiber shell and a hard knock to a wall or pointed edge can easily chip it off. Most of the expensive helmets come with a soft microfiber carry bag which is great for keeping the lid clean but offers zero protection from bumps and knocks. So the best way to protect the helmet is to carry it around in a soft bag with a terry lining. I bought a unbranded for about Rs.500 from the US and it has kept my Arai helmet free from all scratches and bumps. These are available plenty online, so sourcing them should not be a problem. Here is a picture of my helmet bag:
And I carry my helmet with me everywhere and never leave it locked on the bike. If you have locked your helmet to your pillion grab rail in a public parking, chances are you will find new scratches and chips on your lid when you come back. Carrying your helmet around can be a pain sometimes, but keeps it pristine. Also make sure NEVER to drop your lid from a height - if you do so, its crash absorption properties will get compromised (though it might appear fine from the outside) and it might not work when you need it most. If you drop your lid badly, it needs to be replaced, no matter how undamaged it looks from the outside.
I clean the surface of the shell using a combination of dry and wet toilet tissues. I first gently rub the surface with a wet tissue and then wipe it clean with the dry issue. Do this weekly and it will keep your surface glossy and clean. If you have vents on the surface, first using a blower/vacuum cleaner to blow out any dust, and then use a damp Johnson& Johnson ear bud to clean out the inaccessible area under the vent covers.
Visors: Visors of premium helmets are usually scratch resistant, and with little care, their life can be extended considerably. I bought spare visors when I got my Arai helmet four years ago, but I still haven't used them! I use the wet-dry tissue technique in a left to right sweeping motion to clean the visor everyday - this also improves vision while riding! Lubrication is also important when it comes to the attachment area where the visor is hinged to the main shell. To do this, detach the visor, wipe it clean and then apply silicon lubricant to the visor area which comes in contact with hinge mechanism. Below is a picture of my silicon lube supply, again easily available online:
Helmet lining: If your helmet has a detachable lining, you have your work cut out for you - simply mix some gentle detergent (like ezee) in a bucket of luke warm water, and soak your lining in it. After 30 mins or so, use a soft wet handkerchief/socks/3M foam to gently rub the lining underwater. Be careful not to use plastic brush or rub vigorously, as it will damage the soft microfiber lining and foam.
For the rest of the helmet with fabric bits which cannot come off, I simply dunk the whole lid into a large bucket with the lukewarm water and repeat the cleaning process as I do for the lining. After the lining and helmet has dried, I use a wet tissue to wipe the surface of the shell and visor and then use a dry tissue. This takes care of any hard water stains.
#2. Full grain leather jackets/pants/one piece leather racing suits/gloves/boots:
Leather gear is easier to clean and maintain as compared to mesh as long as you have the right equipment to do so. With adequate maintenance, full grain leather gear will probably last you a lifetime as long as you don't drop them. The key to leather maintenance is:
Keeping the leather well aired and conditioned (retain tanning oils): Store your leather gear in a well aired place to prevent mold/fungi formation. If you are not using it frequently, try to hang it in the Verandah or near the window once a month. It is also important to keep the leather nourished so that it does not lose its elasticity. There are different leather care emulsions available in the market, but I would like to highlight two brands which are the best when to comes to leather care - Leather Masters (Uniters) and Lexol. A typical leather maintenance kit will consist of two bottles - one will be a leather cleaner and second will be the leather conditioning lotion. I have recommended these two brands because their products are made for high quality leather care, with the right pH balance(of 5.5 or so). Regular cleaners have a pH of 10+, which will strip away tanning chemicals which are needed to keep the leather in good shape. I saw an ad from a leather master distributor in November's Overdrive, so the product is available in India.
UPDATE, November 2015: High quality leather cleaner and conditioner kits are available at the Dainese Store in Orion Mall, Bangalore.
To clean leather gear, get a piece foam or a applicator, and then apply the cleaner over the surface in a circular motion. Once you have cleaned the surface, then wait for around 30 minutes and then start applying the conditioner using the same technique as the cleaner. If you are unsure, it is always better to test the cleaner on a small patch for signs of discoloration. But normally, premium leather gear will not discolor on use of the right cleaners/conditioners. Wash the foam throughly and then dry it for next use. If you are not using your leather gear, I recommend conditioning it once in four months. And if your leather gear gets soaked in the rain, first wipe it with a clean cloth, dry it and then use the cleaner and the conditioner. Water has a way of stripping away essential tanning oils...
In case your gear is a combination of mesh/Cordura and leather (like mine), use a vacuum cleaner with a bristle attachment to suck the dust out of the mesh part and then clean that area with a damp cloth. This works most of the time.
And NEVER dry clean your leathers!
#3. Mesh riding gear: This is easy - try vacuum cleaning the dirt out of the mesh crevices and seams using a bristle attachment. Then use a damp cloth to clean the mesh. Most of the mesh used is synthetic, so it will not absorb water if you run the surface with a damp cloth. And if you have done some serious mud plogging and the cleaning is beyond the abilities of your vacuum cleaner, and hand wash the garment in lukewarm water with a soft detergent. Avoid the machine washing your mesh garments, and NEVER dry clean. Dry cleaning solvents will strip your garment of special finishes (water proofing for example) if your jacket is treated with one. Let the garment hang out in shade and do not wring it - let it drip.
#4. Riding boots: If your boot is made of leather, or has parts of leather, follow the instructions above for leather gear. If your boot has synthetic leather like Lorica, then it is ok to wash them in lukewarm water. Some street/track riding boots have an ankle protection system with a hinge mechanism, so it is important to lubricate them with Silicon gel if it starts creaking. Silicon lube is best for plastic and molded parts.
I think I have covered everything - please feel free to share your experience with your gear. Gear up, and ride safe!!!
UPDATE, November 2015: High quality leather cleaner and conditioner kits are available at the Dainese Store in Orion Mall, Bangalore.
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