Motorcycle Detailing Thread

[mayank.travadi]

thanks but a microfibre cloth to wipe clean the bike will still drag the dust on the painted surface right? thats what creates swirl marks isnt it and not the cloth itself.....i'm not sure about this so just asking...

[Prith]

can anyone tell me where can i get cheap paint protection film in pune it can be clear or the sticker type but it has to be cheap


thanks

Mechravi : Check out paint sealants. Alternatively visit any of your local paint shops, they might have paint sealants which can protect your paint for 8-10 months based on climatic conditions and dust.

[aargee]

thanks but a microfibre cloth to wipe clean the bike will still drag the dust on the painted surface right? thats what creates swirl marks isnt it and not the cloth itself.....i'm not sure about this so just asking...

These should help you understand, pls let me know otherwise...








And use this for cleaning the mud/hard soil from the motorcycle...IT WORKS!!!

[Prith]

@blogging wheels thanks
i'll surely try this orange tin next time...first on my ageing scooter and if i think i can do that hardwork of buffing the hard wax i'll try on my bike

You dont have to worry about the hard wax's tough job, but there is a simple solution to this (I do this for my dad's scooter everytime). Use wet cloth. Wash the scooter first with soap solution. Then with clean water, then when its wet, use a wet cloth/wet sponge to transfer the wax from tub to scooter's painted surface. This will not only allow you to spread the wax evenly (water acting as lubricant), but also will ease your reach. After 5 min, use a soft cotton cloth (old banian) to buff. Post some after pics for us to see and drool . The hard work (Quoting Pinaki da - "Hard as hell") will come only when you let it dry totally. Even then, you can soften it with thin coating of coconut oil.

[Prith]

These should help you understand, pls let me know otherwise...

I have reservation with MF cloth's use with soiled areas Aargee. Whatever they say about MF's capability is cool, but this works really well only during wet conditions (including polishing phase).

If MF has the capability to "lift" particles, then sand particles will get caught in its network and remain their until removed. This will only aid in adding more swirl marks (though not detectable under normal light), but "lifting" lint is acceptable.

Is my thought inline or otherwise?

But, why do they advertise for solied areas also

[Prith]

thanks but a microfibre cloth to wipe clean the bike will still drag the dust on the painted surface right? thats what creates swirl marks isnt it and not the cloth itself.....i'm not sure about this so just asking...

Swirl marks are bane to every biker. If you have access to water source close to your parking lot, then you would need atleast 3 full buckets of water to do initial wash down. The reason is hard/baked/clay/soil need sometime to absorb water. I use this method during rainy season, but you can try for your case.
Items needed :
1. Bucket (15-20 litres)
2. Soft cloth - Old banian, cotton saree, soft sponge. Or anything that is soft and easily crumple in your hand (no nylon, terry etc). 1 foot x 1 foot in size. Soak the cloth in water seperately.
First bucket : 0 min : First wash down.
Second bucket : At 10 min : Second wash down
Third bucket : At 20 min : Soap wash down. Sonax/Wurth or atleast some old shampoo can be used to get the sud that is needed for this work. Surf/Tide/Rin soap powder will cause water marks after drying. Salt concentration in water can also cause same. Allow the soap to act on the dust/grease for sometime (5 min). Wriggle the water off the soaked cloth, dip it in soap water and use the soap suds along with cloth and rub it slowly on painted surfaces. Suds will provide the needed cushion between cloth and the dirt particles. The best practice (I'm sure you are aware) is to wash top down. Starting with painted surface then moving on to heavily soiled areas. By the time you reach half bucket, just dip your hand to the bottom of the bucket and check if it has soil particles. If it does, just pour it out on your bike wheels or mufflers. Use fresh water and soap solution again.
As for removing the swirl marks and don't mind spending 100 bucks , buy Motomax 2K rubbing compound/one step compound. It will help you remove swirl marks and then can be replenished with wax.
This should solve your problem to some extent, but if heavy soiling exist, then you would need help of pressure washer to pull all that dirt off. Or some serious holi type water throwing capabilities
using mug.
I will not advice MF cloth for cleaning soiled areas because sand tends to get trapped very easily in the fiber network and will not dislodge easily. Always use MF/Chamois after cleaning your bike with water and during polishing phase.
Happy cleaning

[mayank.travadi]

@argee thanks for the pics..that explains it much better
btw how much would a microfibre cloth cost...which can be fit in the bikes rear seat...that glove thing seems good but i guess it might be too costly and wouldnt fit in the rear seat...but it seems very tempting to buy

@prith well washing i do it every 3 weeks and i recently washed it so i'll use this wax thing during my next wash...thanks for the tips...and yes i have no problems in washing...just normal wiping away dust which settles on bike when parked in open...cant have access to bike covers everywhere...

[mayank.travadi]

i bought this today...i asked for auto polish orange tin but he gave i have this...u want it take it...and considering its just 48 rupees for 50gms i bought it...

is this same as the auto polish thing? it is hard...but not s hard...if i press my finger at it..it leave finger prints...and i couldn't find this product on their website so asked here..any body used it?

i bought it because of all the confusion of swirl marks inducing cloths and blah blah i thought a hard wax will protect paint and then i can use anything to wipe the bike and paint will be protected by the wax coat...

and is it really necessary to wash the scooter with a shampoo and then put this wax/polish? i washed it this sunday and little dust has settled on it...its very time consuming to wash again...cant i just pour water on the scooter and remove all dust and start with this?

and should i apply with a normal cotton cloth or a sponge?

[Prith]

is this same as the auto polish thing? it is hard...but not s hard...if i press my finger at it..it leave finger prints...and i couldn't find this product on their website so asked here..any body used it?

It is. I have used it before. Keep it in cool dark place away from sunlight.

i bought it because of all the confusion of swirl marks inducing cloths and blah blah i thought a hard wax will protect paint and then i can use anything to wipe the bike and paint will be protected by the wax coat...

Good choice.

and is it really necessary to wash the scooter with a shampoo and then put this wax/polish? i washed it this sunday and little dust has settled on it...its very time consuming to wash again...cant i just pour water on the scooter and remove all dust and start with this?
and should i apply with a normal cotton cloth or a sponge?

Just wash with a bucket and start when its wet. Use a wet cloth and rub it in the tub so that it picks up the wax. Use your index finger and middle finger to hold the wet cloth and run the wet cloth in circular motion in tub, this way you can ensure even usage of wax in the tub. Additionally finish buffing before the hard wax dries out, you are looking at 3-4 minutes time between first transfer and buffing.

[mayank.travadi]

so its the same auto polish in another pack? cool..thanks for the tips and method...
i'll do this next time i have free time...

any specific cloth or any normal cloth? read in a thread pinaki da coated that use terrycot...
also damp or wet?

and as u have used it how are the results? how long does the coat last and how is the protection?

and since this is same orange tin stuff buffing is hard? in 3-4 minutes it starts to become hazzy? also i read if wax dries we can reapply wax and buff it immediately and so it becomes easy....

sorry for shooting so many questions...

thanks a lot

[aargee]

Is my thought inline or otherwise?

Yes; use them once & then you'll understand it better

1. Bucket (15-20 litres)

For what????

Soft cloth - Old banian, cotton saree, soft sponge. Or anything that is soft and easily crumple in your hand (no nylon, terry etc). 1 foot x 1 foot in size. Soak the cloth in water seperately

A BIG NO unless you love swirl marks!!! Use MF Wash Mitt which is best VFM than over sheep skin MF

btw how much would a microfibre cloth cost...which can be fit in the bikes rear seat...that glove thing seems good but i guess it might be too costly and wouldnt fit in the rear seat...but it seems very tempting to buy

Go ahead & buy one or get it imported from US of A. I'd suggest to buy from www.bringingbest.com, New Delhi, India who imports from US & they're quite knowledgeable about what they're selling & a friendly person

[aargee]

i bought this today...cloth or a sponge?

Go ahead & develop your triceps & forceps muscles

[Prith]

so its the same auto polish in another pack? cool..thanks for the tips and method...
i'll do this next time i have free time...

any specific cloth or any normal cloth? read in a thread pinaki da coated that use terrycot...
also damp or wet?

and as u have used it how are the results? how long does the coat last and how is the protection?

and since this is same orange tin stuff buffing is hard? in 3-4 minutes it starts to become hazzy? also i read if wax dries we can reapply wax and buff it immediately and so it becomes easy....

sorry for shooting so many questions...

thanks a lot

Old banian cloth (soft thin cotton) is more than enough in this case. Use it when wet. I applied it on military green Bajaj Classic SL 1999 model. It lasted for more than 6 months at any time. Given Chennai's salty ground water condition, it still gave good protection against dust. To top this up, use Waxpol's silicone liquid polish to bring that extra bling.

3-4 min is the max you can allow it to dry. I'm not sure of the paint on your scooter (with clear coat, rust etc), start buffing (with soft cotton cloth) within that time else as suggested by Aargee, you will compete with Arnold Shivajinagar's biceps and triceps..

[mayank.travadi]

Go ahead & develop your triceps & forceps muscles

Old banian cloth (soft thin cotton) is more than enough in this case. Use it when wet. I applied it on military green Bajaj Classic SL 1999 model. It lasted for more than 6 months at any time. Given Chennai's salty ground water condition, it still gave good protection against dust. To top this up, use Waxpol's silicone liquid polish to bring that extra bling.

3-4 min is the max you can allow it to dry. I'm not sure of the paint on your scooter (with clear coat, rust etc), start buffing (with soft cotton cloth) within that time else as suggested by Aargee, you will compete with Arnold Shivajinagar's biceps and triceps..

HAHA...i surely need to work out...and burn calories(gained a lot of holiday weight) and some muscles would look good :P

but is it really that hard to buff? wouldnt be that hard...

the activa isnt in that bad of a condition...but i guess the clear coat might just be on the verge of extinction on it :P

will try it out on the activa and then if i find good results..will do it on the pulsar NS

thanks again guys

[aargee]

you will compete with Arnold Shivajinagar's biceps and triceps..

ROTFL

HAHA...i surely need to work out...will do it on the pulsar NS

thanks again guys

You've option to buy the hard to work on products at lower price OR easy to work on products from moderate to higher price & save your time & energy. Choice is yours