Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Thank you for helping

My only concern is..if we connect stator wires to APE RR directly.. n APE RR to battery... how wiring harness will get power?? As we have removed connection stator how wiring harness, spark plug will get power? I know this might be really stupid question...but unfortunately I am good at mechanical parts only.. need your expert advice to fix this issue.. any help would be appreciated.

See, (I am still imagining the hero stator) on your stator, there are two parts. 1st is pulse generator, which gives pulse signal to CDI using two wires -say wire X and wire Y. 2nd part is 8 poles of the stator which are connected to each other in series with a single copper wire running from pole 1 to pole 8. Now there are two end of this single looooong copper wire, 1st end is at 1st pole and 2nd end at last 8th pole which is grounded to the stator.
Now in stock setup, there is a wire connected to 1st end -say wire A and one wire is connected to ground or last pole end -say wire B.
So in total, there are 4 wires. X & Y from Pulse Gen. and A & B from Stator coil. These 4 wires are coming out of stator case to a 4 wire connector which gets connect to wiring harness. Inside WH, X & Y are giving signals to CDI whereas A & B are powering stock RR unit which is regulating current to charge battery and also proving AC current to Ac bulbs. Also, CDI is getting power directly from battery.

- Here, what you have done as described is desolder 8th pole end from the stator and desolder wire B from the stator and then connect B and 8Th end together without touching them to the stator. Now in this case, anything going into wire A will come out directly from wire B as nothing is connected to the ground/stator.
- Now cut the green wire (X or Y) from the pulse generator and connect it to the nearest screw to make it ground.

*Now have a look at the 4 pin connector**

- Connector consist all four wires ie A & B and X & Y. Carefully cut wires A & B 2 inches below that connector and connect them to gray wires of APE RR. Insert the connector with wire X & Y into the wiring harness which will provide pulse signal to CDi through WH. Meanwhile battery will get its charge from A & B through APE RR which will also provide power to CDI.

-See, CDI gets its power from battery on Hero/Honda case but gets required signals from Pulse Gen. through WH. Just giving the voltage or pulse signals to the CDI wont make it work. It requires both to power the spark plugs. So you also have to connect the X & Y to WH using default connector.

NOTE :-

-Above setup are only applicable if there are only 4 wires coming out of the stator in stock condition. If there is any other wire apart from X & Y and A & B coming out then you have to track it to find its function.
- No need to touch stock wires going into stock RR. Let it be connected to WH.
- Are you sure if your battery is enough charged to power the CDi? Check its voltage with multimeter, try kick start the vehicle with 1/4 throttle input. Or take your friend's battery to check these things. Disconnect headlight wire from ignition as of now. Let the battery charge first.
- You already have completed 80% of this job. I was also in the same boat when i started the mod few months ago and at that time, this thread was badly dead. You have came this far now and its seems your points are clear thats why you are putting your logics here. Keep try to make it work.

-You are good at mechanics? I am finding it difficult to source keihin 38s size pilot jet for my discover 135 carb. Any idea?

Hope I am clear

[Abhi6481]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Carefully observe you stator for its wiring and trace the wiring path from stator to CDI/RR unit. This way you will come to know what color wires you need to isolate from one point to another. The process is very simple if you know the wires as wires can be of different color or they might get faded with time and heat.
Use digital multimeter to check continuity between wires.

Pulse generator in your case (or in above picture) is that small black box with two wires (green and blue) on the upper left side of the photo. It is tightly secured using two screws and sits above rotor magnet. AFAIK When rotor rotates, it read its rotational speed (or a fixed point on rotor) using a small sensor and tells CDI to direct current in spark plug when piston is on top of cylinder. You don't need to do anything to it.

I don't have much idea about Hero stator and its CDI, but basically you have to do is take just two wires and connect them to both ends of the coil using soldering iron. Bring these two wires outside of the stator case and then connect them with each Gray wire of Ape RR. Ape yellow to positive and black to good ground or negetive of battery.
If something gets wrong, you bike won't start as Hero bikes uses same coil to power spark plugs.

If Still unsure then let me know, I will make pictures to make you understand. Please post photos of your stator coil with clear view of it.

Thank you for helping

Unfortunately I have fixed stator to bike..so dont have pics . I have solder two wires as per shown photos in above post. Wires coming from stator connected directly to new RR gray wires ( direct fit for cbz xtreme? Connected yellow wires to positive n black to negative terminal of battery. Yes you are right... my bike is not starting now..so connected stator wires to wiring harness again leaving the APE RR as it is.
I think my battery is not charging now already done headlight direct from ignition wires.. So my cbz is just lying in my parking to get wiring issue fixed.

My only concern is..if we connect stator wires to APE RR directly.. n APE RR to battery... how wiring harness will get power?? As we have removed connection stator how wiring harness, spark plug will get power? I know this might be really stupid question...but unfortunately I am good at mechanical parts only.. need your expert advice to fix this issue.. any help would be appreciated.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Sorry guys...as I m totally novice in terms of electricals... I followed the above steps and added APE RR for my cbz xtreme 2007 model, stator coil wired connected as shown, connected grey wires to connector from stator. Connected yellow wire from RR to positive terminal to battery, n black to negative terminal.. now I am not sure about what is pulse generator, what is its location and which green wire needs to be ground. If anyone can help me with photos it will be gr8 help. Also if anyone from Pune please let me know so I can reach you to get it done.

Carefully observe you stator for its wiring and trace the wiring path from stator to CDI/RR unit. This way you will come to know what color wires you need to isolate from one point to another. The process is very simple if you know the wires as wires can be of different color or they might get faded with time and heat.
Use digital multimeter to check continuity between wires.

Pulse generator in your case (or in above picture) is that small black box with two wires (green and blue) on the upper left side of the photo. It is tightly secured using two screws and sits above rotor magnet. AFAIK When rotor rotates, it read its rotational speed (or a fixed point on rotor) using a small sensor and tells CDI to direct current in spark plug when piston is on top of cylinder. You don't need to do anything to it.

I don't have much idea about Hero stator and its CDI, but basically you have to do is take just two wires and connect them to both ends of the coil using soldering iron. Bring these two wires outside of the stator case and then connect them with each Gray wire of Ape RR. Ape yellow to positive and black to good ground or negetive of battery.
If something gets wrong, you bike won't start as Hero bikes uses same coil to power spark plugs.

If Still unsure then let me know, I will make pictures to make you understand. Please post photos of your stator coil with clear view of it.

[Abhi6481]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Well many have accomplished this successfully on their bikes and the entire source of information is available in xbhp itself but it is scattered through out in many threads so putting up all together in one place.

Let me start this with bikes like Unicorn/CBZ/Xtreme and any other which has single phase coil. I will leave the explanation part of Pulsar’s to Sajan and Abhi who are good at it and also the back bone behind accomplishing this successfully .
The job is pretty much simple on bikes mentioned above.
First of all the coil rewind done from a reputed auto electrician. In Bangalore, Ruby electricals would be a better place. Ask them just to rewind the coil without RR Unit change.
Once the rewinding is done, tell them to remove the ground from coil. Just have a look at the below image. The coil end will be connected to ground/body and green wire will be connected to body/ground. (Red Dots) De-Solder both the terminals from ground and connect it directly. i.e connect the coil wire and green wire directly removing the connection from ground (Yellow Line).





Now once the ground is removed, figure out the Green wire coming from Pulse generator, disconnect it and ground it to body.Check stock diagram and changed diagram so that u can identify easily.
Stock Wiring




Modified wiring with APE RR



Once this is done, don’t connect the Coil Connector to Wiring Harness; instead connect it to APE RR Unit connectors Grey color wire in APE RR picture. (Generally its direct fit connector atleast for Unicorn). Connect the yellow wire of APE RR to +ve of Battery and Black to –ve of battery. Remove the stock RR unit and preserve it safely or just disconnect it and leave it as it is. Check the above picture.

That’s it..!! Voila you are done

APE RR Unit.


Complete Wiring for Headlight including relay. (Put up by Sajan)



Approx Cost Involved.
APE RR OEM - 1100rs
APE RR Delhi Made (Not recommended) - 600rs
Coil Rewinding - 600-800rs

Regarding APE RR unit, people please do go in for an OEM RR unit of APE else you might face a serious problem somewhere in mid-road without lights !!
Use of doing all DC -

Hassle/flicker free riding at night with higher watt bulb/HID

Sorry guys...as I m totally novice in terms of electricals... I followed the above steps and added APE RR for my cbz xtreme 2007 model, stator coil wired connected as shown, connected grey wires to connector from stator. Connected yellow wire from RR to positive terminal to battery, n black to negative terminal.. now I am not sure about what is pulse generator, what is its location and which green wire needs to be ground. If anyone can help me with photos it will be gr8 help. Also if anyone from Pune please let me know so I can reach you to get it done.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Digital meters costing < 200 rupees lacks accuracy and copper wire probes. This device measures voltage easily but fluctuates when measuring current ampere more then 5A because default aluminium wires can not sustain 60W load. Make a temporary probe using slight thicker copper wire and alligator clip to get readings near accurate.

To measure the current here, Rotate the DMM Dial to "10A DC" and only then remove red +ve wire from battery +ve terminal and connect it to the uppermost port labeled usually as 10A max and connect COM wire to the +ve of battery.

Voltage can be measured by just connecting DMM probes to -ve and +ve of battery but to measure the current draw by a certain device, you have to bring you DMM between the power line so that it can measure the amount of flow in the wire.


----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Bought a new stator coil and De-soldered the ground wires Green and copper wire. soldered these two wires and made them float.
De-soldering was pretty hard, couldn't de-solder using my 25W solder iron , Hence bought a 50W solder iron , but even it couldn't de-solder. Finally had to cut the copper wire from ground.

kindly help in completing DC conversion in my Hero ACHIEVER.
Should my bike get start with above four steps/connections or does it need any other connection to get started?

My bike wouldn't start. I am confused/unaware of which wire to connect further to compete this circuit for full DC.

Do post photos of your stator coil. I am familiar with bajaj only. I guess hero and honda uses continuous coil winding to power both battery and CDI whereas Bajaj make separate coil for ignition.

[Maddy79]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Bought a new stator coil and De-soldered the ground wires Green and copper wire. soldered these two wires and made them float.
De-soldering was pretty hard, couldn't de-solder using my 25W solder iron , Hence bought a 50W solder iron , but even it couldn't de-solder. Finally had to cut the copper wire from ground.

Had cut the green (ground) wire of Pulse Gen at the stator coupler. Will ground it seperatly.

Yet to fix this in bike and make other wiring changes.

Kindly clear my doubts.

1) Can I use the stock RR coupler to ...
a) Join the Yellow positive from APE RR to the positive of this coupler?
b) Join the A/C lighting pin in the stock RR coupler to the Battery positive to change the lighting from AC to DC.

As I want to avoid wire cuts to the max, want to know if these pins can be used for this DC modification by using brass pins.

Please suggest from below diagram.



I got APE RR at VISHAL AUTO PARTS , Kukatpally/Moosapet Y Jn

==============================

Today I fixed the stator ( after ungrounding) ,

1) Connected white and green (stator) wires to two gray wires of APE RR.
2) Connected yellow wire from APE RR to batery +ve terminal.
3) Grounded the black wire from APE RR to Chassis.
4) Grounded the green wire of PG ( Pickup Coil) to chassis.

kindly help in completing DC conversion in my Hero ACHIEVER.
Should my bike get start with above four steps/connections or does it need any other connection to get started?

My bike wouldn't start. I am confused/unaware of which wire to connect further to compete this circuit for full DC.

[Srinivas sr143sr]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

I made a visit to RAM NAGAR APE svc, unfortunatly this facility is been shutdown/closed since long. Inquired some near by mechanic garage and they suggested to get it from RAMCOR malakpet svc. Some how I was not interested to give a second try, but later thought of giving a try. when there and with no surprise saw the same guy at the spare parts counter ( Wish I could bash this guy) . He exactly acted the same way as what he did in 2015's visit. Was talking with me with sarcasm and foolish smile on his face. Went in and brought the new regulator ( MRP ~1800 with more than 6 wires, he knew that I will not take it ) went in again and brought the exact same old antique APE rr which he showed me back in 2015 ( I cant forget it till date, they might have kept this as a sample or might be using it for testing). Was suggesting me to take at and was telling me that getting it in what so ever condition itself is a "Maha Prasad" and I better take it blindly. Took a deep breadth and left that place.

People from Hyderabad - Secundrabad, kindly beware of this guy.

Covered almost half of the Hyderabad in search of it. Finally one of the shops had it , same part number and looked exactly the same as what many have posted in this forum, but was of Greaves Cotton Ltd (Greaves Spares) make.

Was little hesitant, but the shop guy convinenced me by saying that Greaves is the OEM for PIAGGIO and showed me many OEM engine parts of Greaves make.
It was looking new and theres no way we can find out if it is in working state , unless connected , Plus there will be no warranty and return...Damn
Thou I wasn't sure of taking it, as I had no other option left, took it.

As sourcing this APE rr is a big pain, can we have any other alternative which is at least widely available in the automobile shops/ SVC's. Because, down the line if there is some issue with this APE rr after the modification, All we have to do is again start our search finding APE rr or revert back to stock. which is point less.
@Srinivas sr143sr, Can you share your thoughts on NS200 rr, hope this will be a best bet for people looking for DC conversion.
Any NS200 owner please share your thought , details of this rr and its pictures


Members kindly let me know if this is the same PIAGGIO APE rr.

[ATTACH]235649[/ATTACH]

ohh you have got it...
Yes.. Greaves Cotton is the OEM Regulator part of APE. But you have to verify it whether its genuine or fake one. As it is around 1200rs i think its not a fake one. If it is fake it will fail immediately and that shop owner will get nice thrashing by others who have bought the same.

Spare parts shops will not openly sell claiming it as OEM, as far as i know atleast in major areas in Hyderabad. If they do it, they will get thrashed badly.

Please share the Full address of the shop so that all can benefit bro.

At malakpet, You should have asked that Fuc*** to call the manager of the showroom and tried to speak to him.
You should have argued with him, if he buys the same if he is in your position.
Anyways you have got what you want. from pics it is looking good.

One way to identify the genuine APE RR is: The wires, rubbber caps, Metal Fins of regulator are of very good quality and crafted to near perfection. What i am saying is, if it is fake one the look will not be that good and will not be pleasing to eyes. The fit and finish of fake ones(rs 300 ones that are available at Nampally Ek minar masjid area) is not that good. I have seen them

Another Special thing i tested and came to know is, some members said that the APE RR is smart and it charges the battery like trickle charging.

Our Pulsar 150 normal charger, when bike is started and DC +ve out wire of RR, if touched with body or ground of bike will make a spark. BUT THE APE RR AS TESTED BY ME IS SMART AND +VE OUT WIRE OF IT WILL NOT PRODUCE SPARK. That means it has smart mechanism to avoid short circuit.

This mechanism AFAIK is not possible to implement in Fake chargers or small chargers like our normal Pulsar 150 chargers. I dont know about P200NS charger though.

Till now i didnt get a single chance to look the P200NS RR. There are no pics even in the net.

[Maddy79]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Ohh.. The same happened with me also. Still the fuc***s are behaving the same. Head to page 117 where you can find my bill, address and other things. Also the RR just below my Posts (by Sandybaba) is also same but with different connector and no issues to use it. we can make custom connector using horn clips.

Colour codes for APE RR
---------------------------------
Grey wires--> AC from stator
Yellow wire-->+ve out to +ve battery and Full Red wire in New RR (Sandybaba)---> +ve out to +ve battery
Black wire--->-ve out to chassis/Battery -ve
Red-Yellow and Red-White---> For auto battery indicator maybe or other purpose (In our case we dont require it)

I too went there(Ramnagar) searching from RTC X roads if i remember properly. There we can ask any auto driver/truck driver for APE service center. But tell them the same story that you came from a different place and request them. BUT DON'T ACCEPT USED ONES AT ANY COST..!!

I have bought copper, varnish, sleeves at jambagh(near mojamjahi market). Starting from koti to mojamjahi market, on your right you can find so many shops dealing with the same. Heyy thanks for sharing the bulb details. can you share the shop address in moosapet..??

Forget about battery capacity/Type in the bike. It has nothing to do for having the brighter bulb. we should be concentrating on stator, RR and relays while using higher bulb(relays are mandatory). P200NS is a full DC bike with heavy electricals (particulary 60/55W bulb) and the latest BS4 one consumes more current since that 60/55W bulb is on every time and to manage it RR should be very robust. If you can get that, it will be ok. but i dont know whether there is any change in RR model from BS3 to BS4 ones.

I have searched for you, for P200NS RR images, but i am unable to find them. By looking at the wires of RR we can say whether its 3 phase one(Ex: P220F) or 2 phase one. We need 2 phase one.

Some have used Pulsar UG4 RR's, but if we speak frankly, for our usage(60/55W bulb+speedmeter bulbs+tail lamp+pilotlamp) the load will be more and the life of RR will decrease(as per my opinion) if we use the bulbs often. The RR will become much much hotter than it should be. I have done some research on RR's. Hehe.

I made a visit to RAM NAGAR APE svc, unfortunatly this facility is been shutdown/closed since long. Inquired some near by mechanic garage and they suggested to get it from RAMCOR malakpet svc. Some how I was not interested to give a second try, but later thought of giving a try. when there and with no surprise saw the same guy at the spare parts counter ( Wish I could bash this guy) . He exactly acted the same way as what he did in 2015's visit. Was talking with me with sarcasm and foolish smile on his face. Went in and brought the new regulator ( MRP ~1800 with more than 6 wires, he knew that I will not take it ) went in again and brought the exact same old antique APE rr which he showed me back in 2015 ( I cant forget it till date, they might have kept this as a sample or might be using it for testing). Was suggesting me to take at and was telling me that getting it in what so ever condition itself is a "Maha Prasad" and I better take it blindly. Took a deep breadth and left that place.

People from Hyderabad - Secundrabad, kindly beware of this guy.

Covered almost half of the Hyderabad in search of it. Finally one of the shops had it , same part number and looked exactly the same as what many have posted in this forum, but was of Greaves Cotton Ltd (Greaves Spares) make.

Was little hesitant, but the shop guy convinenced me by saying that Greaves is the OEM for PIAGGIO and showed me many OEM engine parts of Greaves make.
It was looking new and theres no way we can find out if it is in working state , unless connected , Plus there will be no warranty and return...Damn
Thou I wasn't sure of taking it, as I had no other option left, took it.

As sourcing this APE rr is a big pain, can we have any other alternative which is at least widely available in the automobile shops/ SVC's. Because, down the line if there is some issue with this APE rr after the modification, All we have to do is again start our search finding APE rr or revert back to stock. which is point less.
@Srinivas sr143sr, Can you share your thoughts on NS200 rr, hope this will be a best bet for people looking for DC conversion.
Any NS200 owner please share your thought , details of this rr and its pictures


Members kindly let me know if this is the same PIAGGIO APE rr.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

The problem with DMM's is, our cheap DMM's may not be able to show Ampere reading properly/exactly. You should be knowing that your DMM wires get hot while testing Amps. Also checking amps frequently, leads to failure of our low cost Dmms.
Rewinded Avy coil output will be insane. It will give jaw dropping voltage (AC when checked. i have posted my winded Avy coil readings)
You said that you have bought 6 wire Ape RR right..?? Is it same as mine in page117.??

As you have 55w setup fuse has nothing to do with the problem. But also check as 9K rpm is almost redlining, it may cause some vibrations in bike leading to some socket connection problems. have a look into that thing also.

The problem with DMM's is, our cheap DMM's may not be able to show Ampere reading properly/exactly. You should be knowing that your DMM wires get hot while testing Amps. Also checking amps frequently, leads to failure of our low cost Dmms. Please avoid regular checking of amps.
Avenger180 stator coil has good core area so that it can be wounded with more copper winding and gives superb output.
Rewinded Avy coil output will be insane. It will give jaw dropping voltage (AC when checked. i have posted my winded Avy coil readings)
You said that you have bought 6 wire Ape RR right..?? Is it same as mine in page117.??


As you have 55w setup fuse has nothing to do with the problem. But also check as 9K rpm is almost redlining, it may cause some vibrations in bike leading to some socket connection problems. have a look into that thing also.

Good Evening Sir

I have gone through each and every page of this post to gain knowledge but now wondering how I have missed page Page 116 to 122.
I was in the same boat this year where you were in 2015.
My ride is Disco 135 Sports which shares many parts with P150 UG2. Have same yellow DMM, same yellow house elec. wire and had same doubts and Piago SC experience you faced. Difference is just that there was no one active on this post to help me when i started this project.

My Ape RR is exactly likes yours and came in clear plastic packing with a crushed blue piagio carton with bill amount 1.5k approx. People here call it charger in their mech. lang. instead of Regulator Rectifier.

Long post short - I bought Hella G3 Projector for Rs.200 from scrap yard, sourced HID from friend, made custom rectifier using diode which didn't worked as exacted. Then I isolate some wires on alternate which also didn't work (stock alt. was happily providing power to a 55/60w bulb). Then bought copper wire and wrapped it around stock unwounded core myself with hell lot of pain in fingers and elbow which atlast touched somewhere to the core and wire got grounded. rectified it then. Reading and results are on page 132 (plz have a look at the post ) worked fine for 3 months after which wire got grounded again. I then removed the wire again, sold it for 100 rupees, installed the stator back with only Ignition coil and started riding happily with no horn/headlight.
After a month or so a worm inside me tickled again, removed the stocked core and found its plastic coating damaged which may cause grounding again. Bought Avy Alternator after confirming its size, removed its wire and sold for 100 rupees again. Bought 30 meter of 16.5awg wire and got 80 turns per pole after perfect winding as avy stator has larger brims to hold more wire. Plonked it back and here are the Results which I checked again yesterday.

-AC volt from Alternator
idle - ~40 , 9k rpm- ~170+

-DC Voltage
Off- 12.8, idle- 13.8v increasing to 14.2v in a minute , 9K rpm- 14.3 fixed

As per your vast research, mine voltages seems to be acceptable and RR temps are also around 40*C as I have placed it directly in front of Air filter intake to keep the fins cool.
I also removed complete headlight assembly and cleaned all the terminals and then taped them tightly to sustain shocks. I can not test it now at 9K rpm vibrations as I recently have installed a New piston+cylinder kit along with every other moving component and right now in Run-In period.

I have fixed home elec. wires in DMM and a fuse inside it to sustain loads. It always shows correct reading with every other electrical equipment but fails when it comes to Alternator ->Ape RR -> Battery case. With all electrical off and battery completely exhausted, It is taking a load of ~2.5A in idle say 1300rpm and 4.5A in 1500 rpm to charge it. Isn't this strange? Increase of just 200 rounds causing amp output to double as per DMM! Reading are stationary even with 10A of initial HID load +3.5A horns.
So I left the setup to check practically and it came out successfully working.

As of now, I have double checked everything and taped every connection after twisting/connecting them again. Flickering must be result of loose relay connections. BTW, I have noticed that arcs inside HID bulbs are sensitive to vibrations and bumps if driven at low volatge and shows light projection movements and aftereffects ahead on road.
What's your current Setup?
Good Night

[Srinivas sr143sr]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

-Most of the APE auto drivers get their vehicle serviced done outside ASS because they are auto drivers and are low on budget. May be thats why Piagio SC are empty most of the time and lacks proper technicians who have technical knowledge about parts. I also went to a SC in tshirt and pajamas and gave them just the part number. After getting the unit in my hand, I smiled at them and said I am a student and I need this for my college project, then they applied 20% discount.

- I am also using new Ape RR with extra red wire. On my discover 135, Avenger stator revinded with 18swg +ape rr + 55w hella G3 bixenon projector setup is working absolutely fine past one year. Also done solo full night trips with this setup.

- As you have researched on several RR units, can you please figure out a minor problem I am facing. DC conversion setups works fine all of the time, but my HID flickers if i push my engine hard to 9k or above RPM during straight drags. Getting 2.3+ amps in idle and 10+ amps above 3k rpm (my cheap dmm can not exceed 10A units). Is the flicker because of excessive current generation on higher RPM for which APE RR is not made whereas below 8k rpm setup is absolutely fine.
note - there is no fuse between ape rr output (yellow wire) and battery positive terminal.

The problem with DMM's is, our cheap DMM's may not be able to show Ampere reading properly/exactly. You should be knowing that your DMM wires get hot while testing Amps. Also checking amps frequently, leads to failure of our low cost Dmms. Please avoid regular checking of amps.
Avenger180 stator coil has good core area so that it can be wounded with more copper winding and gives superb output.
Rewinded Avy coil output will be insane. It will give jaw dropping voltage (AC when checked. i have posted my winded Avy coil readings)
You said that you have bought 6 wire Ape RR right..?? Is it same as mine in page117.??

Bro.. you said 10+ amps at 3krpm. 10*12 close to 120watts .
"Getting 2.3+ amps in idle and 10+ amps above 3k rpm"
how much load(lights and other things in on) have you added when testing..??
The amps can be known when you put sufficient load i.e;120 watts on your bike and can be known while checking the current(Amps) drawing from the Regulator. Just asking how you have checked.
10+amps is powerful output.
Pushing bike to 9K RPM with that setup 18swg will give more amps and also overall good voltage. AFAIK some members even tested heavier setups than yours and Ape RR has managed to drive them easily.

whats the voltage at higher RPM's in your bike..?? I have witnessed around 14.7-14.9+ in my DMM. Unit cheap dmm

i think in your case its the ballast that is taking the hit. The high voltage at higher Rpms is making the ballast go crazy.

Amps only increase as per requirement and that amps will be drawn from RR, but Voltage should be regulated strictly from RR. if its supplying more, then sensitive electricals such as ballast, digital meters will obviously fail.

Old Ape rr's as per most members, they are giving a good regulated voltage max of 14.2volts DC. Actually 14.2 volts is the safest for our bikes(specially bikes).
But new Ape rr in my case exceeded that limit.
Its strange that even in my Brother in laws car, i found that the regulated current from alternator is around 15volts.
Stock avenger+stock avenger RR in my bike gave 15.2volts of max dc at higher Rpm's. Its somewhat strange to me. i thought my dmm is showing wrong but when tested with some other things with same dmm it showed coorectly.
My P150 UG2 stock RR max touched 13.9volts. Apache stock RR of my friends bike showed a max of 14.2volts DC.


Our bike electricals which are lights, horn, battery can handle around 15volts. But as per my knowledge for a projector setup, the electricals gets complex and will have some tolerances and after exceeding that, they might not work properly or fail.

As you have 55w setup fuse has nothing to do with the problem. But also check as 9K rpm is almost redlining, it may cause some vibrations in bike leading to some socket connection problems. have a look into that thing also.

[achelis8]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

For full dc conversion please contact Debraj Bhaskar of DVJ Autotech.

I got it done from him for a Hero Honda CBZ Xtreme 2009 model.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Ohh.. The same happened with me also. Still the fuc***s are behaving the same. Head to page 117 where you can find my bill, address and other things. Also the RR just below my Posts (by Sandybaba) is also same but with different connector and no issues to use it. we can make custom connector using horn clips.

Colour codes for APE RR
---------------------------------
Grey wires--> AC from stator
Yellow wire-->+ve out to +ve battery and Full Red wire in New RR (Sandybaba)---> +ve out to +ve battery
Black wire--->-ve out to chassis/Battery -ve
Red-Yellow and Red-White---> For auto battery indicator maybe or other purpose (In our case we dont require it)



Some have used Pulsar UG4 RR's, but if we speak frankly, for our usage(60/55W bulb+speedmeter bulbs+tail lamp+pilotlamp) the load will be more and the life of RR will decrease(as per my opinion) if we use the bulbs often. The RR will become much much hotter than it should be. I have done some research on RR's. Hehe.

-Most of the APE auto drivers get their vehicle serviced done outside ASS because they are auto drivers and are low on budget. May be thats why Piagio SC are empty most of the time and lacks proper technicians who have technical knowledge about parts. I also went to a SC in tshirt and pajamas and gave them just the part number. After getting the unit in my hand, I smiled at them and said I am a student and I need this for my college project, then they applied 20% discount.

- I am also using new Ape RR with extra red wire. On my discover 135, Avenger stator revinded with 18swg +ape rr + 55w hella G3 bixenon projector setup is working absolutely fine past one year. Also done solo full night trips with this setup.

- As you have researched on several RR units, can you please figure out a minor problem I am facing. DC conversion setups works fine all of the time, but my HID flickers if i push my engine hard to 9k or above RPM during straight drags. Getting 2.3+ amps in idle and 10+ amps above 3k rpm (my cheap dmm can not exceed 10A units). Is the flicker because of excessive current generation on higher RPM for which APE RR is not made whereas below 8k rpm setup is absolutely fine.
note - there is no fuse between ape rr output (yellow wire) and battery positive terminal.

[Srinivas sr143sr]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Ram nagar Ape Service center?? I had visited Ramcor - Ape servic centers , one at tadbund and other at Malakpet market area. Had a bad experience with the spare parts guy.
Yes, even I approached the spares guy asking that my friends Ape/Auto is stranded in his home town and those local made RR's were of no use and hence he requested me to find the Original Ape RR in Hyderabad. After a long wait at the spares counter, he was very reluctant and ignored my ask, after some time he came out with a used RR (which was in a bad shape) and asked me if that will work for me...I saw no meaning in further talking to that guy and left that place.

Is this Ram Nagar svc different?, where exactly is it. How long its been when you bought it?

Yes, with no surprise its 45/40w HS1 . Its been available since long, but very limited shops stock it. I bought it near Moosapet area. Osram 45/40w is available in Amazon too.

[ATTACH]235303[/ATTACH][ATTACH]235302[/ATTACH]

I Guess, Honda/ Hero ( CBZ/Hunk/Unicorn/Acheiver) stator coil is not winded separately for lighting and ignition, Its just one single coil which is fed to the stock RR and from there it is distributed for lighting , charging ...etc. ( read the same in this forum some where)

Hope, P200NS is a full DC setup with 6Ah VRLA battery. Will try to get more info on it.

Any suggestions on location to get the winding copper , cotton sleeves, varnish...etc for this process

Ohh.. The same happened with me also. Still the fuc***s are behaving the same. Head to page 117 where you can find my bill, address and other things. Also the RR just below my Posts (by Sandybaba) is also same but with different connector and no issues to use it. we can make custom connector using horn clips.

Colour codes for APE RR
---------------------------------
Grey wires--> AC from stator
Yellow wire-->+ve out to +ve battery and Full Red wire in New RR (Sandybaba)---> +ve out to +ve battery
Black wire--->-ve out to chassis/Battery -ve
Red-Yellow and Red-White---> For auto battery indicator maybe or other purpose (In our case we dont require it)

I too went there(Ramnagar) searching from RTC X roads if i remember properly. There we can ask any auto driver/truck driver for APE service center. But tell them the same story that you came from a different place and request them. BUT DON'T ACCEPT USED ONES AT ANY COST..!!

I have bought copper, varnish, sleeves at jambagh(near mojamjahi market). Starting from koti to mojamjahi market, on your right you can find so many shops dealing with the same. Heyy thanks for sharing the bulb details. can you share the shop address in moosapet..??

Forget about battery capacity/Type in the bike. It has nothing to do for having the brighter bulb. we should be concentrating on stator, RR and relays while using higher bulb(relays are mandatory). P200NS is a full DC bike with heavy electricals (particulary 60/55W bulb) and the latest BS4 one consumes more current since that 60/55W bulb is on every time and to manage it RR should be very robust. If you can get that, it will be ok. but i dont know whether there is any change in RR model from BS3 to BS4 ones.

I have searched for you, for P200NS RR images, but i am unable to find them. By looking at the wires of RR we can say whether its 3 phase one(Ex: P220F) or 2 phase one. We need 2 phase one.

Some have used Pulsar UG4 RR's, but if we speak frankly, for our usage(60/55W bulb+speedmeter bulbs+tail lamp+pilotlamp) the load will be more and the life of RR will decrease(as per my opinion) if we use the bulbs often. The RR will become much much hotter than it should be. I have done some research on RR's. Hehe.

[Maddy79]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Find the answers in bold bro. Please answer my 45/40w bulb query
And one thing if you need only 60/55W light and dont care whether its AC or DC you can do it with Avenger 180 Regulator also. Just you have to identify the lighting coils in your stator and rewind it with more turnings and feed them to AVY regulator lighting. It will do the job smoothly.


If you want DC: Rewinding+APE RR or P200NS will do the job.

Ram nagar Ape Service center?? I had visited Ramcor - Ape servic centers , one at tadbund and other at Malakpet market area. Had a bad experience with the spare parts guy.
Yes, even I approached the spares guy asking that my friends Ape/Auto is stranded in his home town and those local made RR's were of no use and hence he requested me to find the Original Ape RR in Hyderabad. After a long wait at the spares counter, he was very reluctant and ignored my ask, after some time he came out with a used RR (which was in a bad shape) and asked me if that will work for me...I saw no meaning in further talking to that guy and left that place.

Is this Ram Nagar svc different?, where exactly is it. How long its been when you bought it?

Yes, with no surprise its 45/40w HS1 . Its been available since long, but very limited shops stock it. I bought it near Moosapet area. Osram 45/40w is available in Amazon too.



I Guess, Honda/ Hero ( CBZ/Hunk/Unicorn/Acheiver) stator coil is not winded separately for lighting and ignition, Its just one single coil which is fed to the stock RR and from there it is distributed for lighting , charging ...etc. ( read the same in this forum some where)

Hope, P200NS is a full DC setup with 6Ah VRLA battery. Will try to get more info on it.

Any suggestions on location to get the winding copper , cotton sleeves, varnish...etc for this process

[Srinivas sr143sr]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Can some body suggest on where I can get APE RR in Hyderabad.
Authorized service/spares are of no help.
Either don't stock it or not willing to sell it over the counter.

If any of you guys happen to buy at any other shop in Hyderabad, please suggest.

It is available in Ram Nagar Ape service centre. Tell them that you have APE auto and you came from a far town and there only duplicates(Rs300 ones) available.They will ask the Regulator type. Tell them to give 4wire RR +2 wires one. it costs around Rs1400+-RS100. Requesting them will workout.

Also, I would be doing this mod on my Achiever 150, which has a 7Ah lead acid battery.
7Ah will be absolutely fine. No issues.
I replaced the stock 35/35w Headlight Halogen with 45/40w , but still its inadequate and in lower rpms the lighting is very poor to Zero.
45/40W bulb..?? Which brand bro. First time i am hearing about 45/40w. where it is available.?? I will get it for my friends bike.

Hence I am looking to increase the brightness and consistency of the headlight glow.

Assuming that Honda Unicorn/Hero CBZ xtreme /HUNK/Acheiver would have same stator coil.

Kindly Suggest.

1) Without rewinding , can I swap any other RR and get additional output to suffice my need.

without rewinding you cant get additional output. Its like adding a big diameter pipe(Regulator) to a small water flow(Current from stator).

2) Un-grounding the stock winding, connecting it back to the RR and increase the output with stock RR.

Stock RR cant handle that extra Current. it will fail at sometime due to overload and also will not give additional output since it will be designed to give only certain amount of output.

3) Rewind the stock coil with 18/19g copper and add other brand RR ( Ape /Bajaj/Yamaha) for complete DC setup.

Many are using Pulsar UG4 RR but i dont know how much it can handle the extra current as it is also designed only for certain amount of current and definitely not designed to handle 60/55w bulb and others continuously. but some members said it will work. If at all P200NS is a 2-phase RR (if it is same as APE RR) it can be used safely since it is designed to handle 60/55w headlight + and all things run on DC in P200 NS.
P200NS will be anytime safer than UG4 Pulsar RR. Because P200NS was designed for Higher Revs and also comes with heavy electricals

Appreciate, if any one can share there experiences ( Esp: Unicorn/CBZ/HUNK owners) who had done this Modification.

Find the answers in bold bro. Please answer my 45/40w bulb query
And one thing if you need only 60/55W light and dont care whether its AC or DC you can do it with Avenger 180 Regulator also. Just you have to identify the lighting coils in your stator and rewind it with more turnings and feed them to AVY regulator lighting. It will do the job smoothly.


If you want DC: Rewinding+APE RR or P200NS will do the job.