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Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

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  • rprathin
    replied
    Originally posted by crownpiyush View Post
    hi guys,

    i own a pulsar 150 Dtsi 2005 model alloy wheel one and i want a HID setup and after reading all the posts i understood two things that i have to rewind the coil with 19g wire and i have to use APE RR unit for dc conversion.but the problem is that i got very less knowledge of electricals and now i got confused how to rewind the coil so please help me guys.

    i really want to use HID setup without battery drainage problem like you all guys are using.it will be a very great help for me.

    waiting for your reply
    Originally posted by sunilyo View Post
    Can someone just post a video or a video link on how to convert to a Full DC setup? As this will be very helpful to many people who have no clue of rewinding and other connections.
    these thing will help you in rewinding the stator coil...

    (the coil in the pic is of Suzuki gs150RR)


    visit his for how to remove old winding




    visit this url to know about the rewinding




    after rewinding there will be 2 wire coming out from coil, connect these two to the ape rr grey wire...connect yellow ape rr wire to battery positive and black to battery negative terminal....

    Leave a comment:


  • crownpiyush
    replied
    hi guys,

    i own a pulsar 150 Dtsi 2005 model alloy wheel one and i want a HID setup and after reading all the posts i understood two things that i have to rewind the coil with 19g wire and i have to use APE RR unit for dc conversion.but the problem is that i got very less knowledge of electricals and now i got confused how to rewind the coil so please help me guys.

    i really want to use HID setup without battery drainage problem like you all guys are using.it will be a very great help for me.

    waiting for your reply

    Leave a comment:


  • rprathin
    replied
    Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View Post
    i'm using 35W HID in reflector it's gives output almost equal to 100W halogen.. but lot of light wastage is there as a glare so if we use this on projector then we can reduce wastage & get more light on Road
    that what i said projector is the best ....


    Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View Post
    Even if your bike is full DC you have to get power directly from the battery to HID, bcz your stock wires are not able to withstand at high current where HID consume..And also if you see the HID wiring, the Headlight switch only activate the SPST relay & relay is get the power directly from battery to switch on the HID Check the links

    a hid consumes 4.2 after warm up so stock wire is enough for that punny 35watt hid although there is also the relay in wiring harness which connects the hid directly giving power from the battery so no load on the stock switches & stock wires.....

    Leave a comment:


  • sunilyo
    replied
    Can someone just post a video or a video link on how to convert to a Full DC setup? As this will be very helpful to many people who have no clue of rewinding and other connections.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deepak Karanth
    replied
    Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View Post
    Why dint you used the varnished copper wire..Any reason..

    My bike is having 12 pole if i UN-ground the coil & connect it directly to the Ape RR what is the output can Ape RR give,

    Else if i go with 19G or 17G rewinding + Ape RR what may be my output...

    Presently i'm getting max of 7amps in my Stock+extra rectifier condition.
    But my requirement is 9amps when i use horn
    Hi Raja,

    I,ve used the coated copper wire itself, but I was talking about the varnish
    which sits as a epoxy coat on all the poles. This is done after rewinding to
    cover the poles. You will notice small pieces of these coming off from the
    wire when are unwinding your stock stator.

    Coming to the rewinding of your coil, its better if you check the output of
    your stock coil with the Ape RR and then decide whether to rewind or not.
    Considering the no.of poles you have mentioned, I guess you can take out
    5Amps at idling i.e., 1K Rpm with Ape RR. Route all the charging wires to the
    Ape RR i.e., the wires going to stock RR plus the wire going to custom RR
    and get ready to see some magic.

    Now the Ape RR. Being the latest owner of the same, I can assure of the
    quality, protection and the output of this RR. My stock Avenger coil is
    pumping out 4Amps at idling and increases like hell as mentioned earlier.
    The max output of this RR is rated at around 20-25 Amps I guess. Thus
    there may not be any glitches in the output upto 20 Amps.

    Horns use much of power only when honked continously (like a train),
    but if you are getting 5amps at 1K then once you start revving and reach 4K,
    you will be charging the battery with enough juice for all your needs.

    Now, most important of all, The Battery. I hope you are using a 9Amps battery.
    No matter how much your coil generates, your battery should have enough
    capacity to store what is being generated. You wont get desired output with
    7Amps battery, even if it gets charged at around 10Amps from your Stator.
    Even I'm planning to add a battery with 5amps rating in parallel with my
    9amps battery. You may ask Why? Well the answer is I'm using Philips Rallye
    100/90w bulb, couple it with the famous Pulsar horns and my battery is on me.

    Leave a comment:

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