Engine Oils

[(Alok)]

Can anyone tell which one is the lowest API rating oil (mineral) available with JASO certification?

[B7ACKTHORN]

Thanx a lot bro.
.
The run-in is over, the bike has done 17k kms. What should be the drain Interval for Valvoline 4t 20w-50 semi synthetic when used in Fz16?? Im asking because i used it only once, dint experience much from it as i changed it around 2000 kms. The bike is ridden mostly in city and less on highways.

Depends on the usage. If you're the kind who uses the bike for more touring purposes, ridden sanely, the oil can be dragged to a life of 4 to 5K for optimum performance. The oil in the R15 was changed at 4.2K and I was present at that time.

Now my motul 5100 was changed at 6k~ odd KMS with the oil stil being some life left. The conditions you drive, the very engine condition, etc all decides the life of the engine oil.

Cheers!
VJ

[Touseef Ahmed Mohammed]

Lol, Sir????

Thats RESPECT given to everyone by me. Never mind.

[Touseef Ahmed Mohammed]

Depends on the usage. If you're the kind who uses the bike for more touring purposes, ridden sanely, the oil can be dragged to a life of 4 to 5K for optimum performance. The oil in the R15 was changed at 4.2K and I was present at that time.

Now my motul 5100 was changed at 6k~ odd KMS with the oil stil being some life left. The conditions you drive, the very engine condition, etc all decides the life of the engine oil.

Thanx sir.
So the Valvoline 4T semi synthetic's exact drain interval i should maintain for my Fz-s is??? how many kms.
I am too planning to shift to Valvoline 4T premium for my Fz-s, 22k kms done. I ride 80% in city, 20% on highways. Plz mention its drain interval for my Fz.

[devils_friend]

Can anyone tell which one is the lowest API rating oil (mineral) available with JASO certification?

Its API SJ (no specific ratings for mineral / SS / FS oils) / JASO MA

Cheerz!!

Thats RESPECT given to everyone by me. Never mind.

Thanx sir.
So the Valvoline 4T semi synthetic's exact drain interval i should maintain for my Fz-s is??? how many kms.
I am too planning to shift to Valvoline 4T premium for my Fz-s, 22k kms done. I ride 80% in city, 20% on highways. Plz mention its drain interval for my Fz.

Well, as mentioned earlier, if you drive sanely, the drain should in between 4-5k.

If your driving includes very often throttling and braking. Then, dont expect the oil to do wonders for you. Drain it at 3k.

Hope the reply serves the purpose.

Cheerz!!

[B7ACKTHORN]

Thanx sir.
So the Valvoline 4T semi synthetic's exact drain interval i should maintain for my Fz-s is??? how many kms.
I am too planning to shift to Valvoline 4T premium for my Fz-s, 22k kms done. I ride 80% in city, 20% on highways. Plz mention its drain interval for my Fz.

Then I'd suggest you to change your oil at 3.5K for effective optimum performance. Definitely you can extend, but it's stop and traffic that does much wear and tear to an engine.

Cheers!
VJ

[Honda_CBF]

Can anyone tell which one is the lowest API rating oil (mineral) available with JASO certification?

for bikes you can get API SG. have seen yamalube 20w40 and valvoline champ 20w40 with SG rating. Packaging date was of year 2011. and just for the info, maruti genuine oil from castrol & shell are rated API SF!!

[NIGHTMARE]

ravi@17bhp
Have you tried any diesel oil ? If, How was the smoothness and the gear was slippery or not ?

[Pinaki]

Now you guys are confusing me .

Firstly - how can a semi-synthetic oil's drain interval be more than that of it's base(mineral) oil at all ? Even if we accept that the little bit of synthetic oil that's mixed in it lasts longer , what about the base oil that is all mineral ? Would that not go bad in the same time & kilometers of use , as any other mineral oil ? Once the base oil (which is most of the oil) in the semi-synthetic , goes bad ... how can it continue to function as intended ?

Moreover - I do not think you can run even a fully synthetic oil for vastly extended drain intervals than a mineral oil .
Synthetic oils are known to be much less susceptible to oxidation and other deterioration and hence hold it's grade and last longer ... all that is very good - the oil continues to feel like new even after say 2000 kms of hard use . But the capacity of the small volume of oil in a motorcycle engine to hold dirt and blow-by effluents and neutralise acids would be saturated nearabout at the same time/kilometers as the same volume of any other oil . No ? So the danger is that after saturation the oil would continue to feel like new ... while it is no longer able to collect engine effluents (and hold it in suspension) or neutralise acid and deposit all that dirty stuff inside the engine . Isn't it ?

for bikes you can get API SG. have seen yamalube 20w40 and valvoline champ 20w40 with SG rating. Packaging date was of year 2011. and just for the info, maruti genuine oil from castrol & shell are rated API SF!!

If you still can find that yamalube , buy it . That 20w40 SG yamalube was one heck of a good oil and cheaper than the current SL one too ! No longer at my yahama dealers here .. else I'd buy up as much was available .

[B7ACKTHORN]

Now you guys are confusing me .

Firstly - how can a semi-synthetic oil's drain interval be more than that of it's base(mineral) oil at all ? Even if we accept that the little bit of synthetic oil that's mixed in it lasts longer without deterioration , what about the base oil that is all mineral ? Would that not go bad in the same time & kilometers of use , as any other mineral oil ? Once the base oil (which is most of the oil) in the semi-synthetic , goes bad ... how can it continue to function as intended ?

Moreover - I do not think you can run even a fully synthetic oil for vastly extended drain intervals than a mineral oil .
Synthetic oils are known to be much less susceptible to oxidation and other deterioration and hence last longer and hold it's grade longer (for absence of VII polymers) ... that's all very good - the oil continues to feel like new even after say 2000 kms of hard use . But the capacity of the small volume of oil in a motorcycle engine to hold dirt and blow-by etc effluents and neutralise acids would be saturated nearabout in the same time/kilometers as the same volume of any other oil . No ? So the danger is that after saturation the oil would continue to feel like new ... while it is no longer able to collect engine effluents and hold it in suspension nor neutralise acid anymore and deposit the dirty stuff inside the engine . Isn't it ?

I definitely understand it's a lure, Pinakiji. But what can I say, just in my POV, absolutely back single points. And the sad part is, most people always go by the drain interval mentioned by the oil, not what they really feel under their legs and how that thing behaves.

Case in point, my cousin, Valvoline, R15, changed the oil at precisely 3.2~ oddish KMS right in the ballpark of the change interval, not because it was mentioned, just because he just didn't get the feedback he wanted.

My case in point, the Motul 3100, Motul 5100 and 300V (currently running) no difference in all the three whatsoever, friggin nothing, the slight smoother shifts in 300V, not anything significant to commend over the 5100, but perhaps it's psychologic (and I've stated that too certain pages back) Effluent is almost a given in almost any engine (you know this very well) but it's all in the way the bike is, the fuel is etc.

I for one, never go by what's on the paper, ride it, feel it, change it, else dunk it the same day, was, has and is been my policy for quite a while. And IMHO I'd suggest others too follow their guts. Way too people think way too much when it comes to oil.

Cheers!
VJ

[Vishwa_98]

Hi All,

As recommended by everyone I would like to go for MOTUL 300V Factory Line 4T 15W50 (100% Synthetic; Double Ester Technology) for my Royal Enfield Classic 350. Before changing the engine oil I have a question here. Usually in cars if we use synthetic oil the drain period is higher comparing to mineral or semi synthetic oil. Like wise in Two wheeler the drain period for Mineral oil is 6K kilometers so what is the Drain period for 100% Synthetic oil how often I should change the engine oil? Suggestions welcome especially from people who used Synthetic oil in their RE Classic 350.

Thanks,
Vishwa

[krish2778]

Hi All,

As recommended by everyone I would like to go for MOTUL 300V Factory Line 4T 15W50 (100% Synthetic; Double Ester Technology) for my Royal Enfield Classic 350. Before changing the engine oil I have a question here. Usually in cars if we use synthetic oil the drain period is higher comparing to mineral or semi synthetic oil. Like wise in Two wheeler the drain period for Mineral oil is 6K kilometers so what is the Drain period for 100% Synthetic oil how often I should change the engine oil? Suggestions welcome especially from people who used Synthetic oil in their RE Classic 350.

Thanks,
Vishwa

eer...!! 6k drain interval for mineral oil ? I wouldn't trust mineral oil for over 2.5k , no matter whichever brand it is. I don't think there would be any oil left after running mineral for 6k kms. Semi synthetic I might leave on for 4-5k. Fully synthetic ofr about 6-7k kms. That's the maximum kms I am talking about.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

[Touseef Ahmed Mohammed]

Then I'd suggest you to change your oil at 3.5K for effective optimum performance. Definitely you can extend, but it's stop and traffic that does much wear and tear to an engine.

Thanx Sir , I will shift for Valvoline 4T premium semi synthetic this week. And i will change it at every 3k for safe side.

[devils_friend]

Hi All,

As recommended by everyone I would like to go for MOTUL 300V Factory Line 4T 15W50 (100% Synthetic; Double Ester Technology) for my Royal Enfield Classic 350. Before changing the engine oil I have a question here. Usually in cars if we use synthetic oil the drain period is higher comparing to mineral or semi synthetic oil. Like wise in Two wheeler the drain period for Mineral oil is 6K kilometers so what is the Drain period for 100% Synthetic oil how often I should change the engine oil? Suggestions welcome especially from people who used Synthetic oil in their RE Classic 350.

Thanks,
Vishwa

Well, the engine oil for cars and bikes are absolutely different. Bike oils undergo more severity than the car oils.

Also, no mineral oil will last for 6k. The drain interval for mineral oil should be restricted to 2.5k.

Synth oil can be changed after 6k easily. Till then, no issues with it.

Now you guys are confusing me .

Firstly - how can a semi-synthetic oil's drain interval be more than that of it's base(mineral) oil at all ? Even if we accept that the little bit of synthetic oil that's mixed in it lasts longer , what about the base oil that is all mineral ? Would that not go bad in the same time & kilometers of use , as any other mineral oil ? Once the base oil (which is most of the oil) in the semi-synthetic , goes bad ... how can it continue to function as intended ?

Moreover - I do not think you can run even a fully synthetic oil for vastly extended drain intervals than a mineral oil .
Synthetic oils are known to be much less susceptible to oxidation and other deterioration and hence hold it's grade and last longer ... all that is very good - the oil continues to feel like new even after say 2000 kms of hard use . But the capacity of the small volume of oil in a motorcycle engine to hold dirt and blow-by effluents and neutralise acids would be saturated nearabout at the same time/kilometers as the same volume of any other oil . No ? So the danger is that after saturation the oil would continue to feel like new ... while it is no longer able to collect engine effluents (and hold it in suspension) or neutralise acid and deposit all that dirty stuff inside the engine . Isn't it ?

If you still can find that yamalube , buy it . That 20w40 SG yamalube was one heck of a good oil and cheaper than the current SL one too ! No longer at my yahama dealers here .. else I'd buy up as much was available .

Semi synth oil has base oil of higher group. Mineral oil has the base group (Group 1).

Also, as you go from mineral to SS to FS, the base oil category improves and this helps in having extended drain intervals.

Higher the base oil, higher can be the drain interval.

Cheerz!!

[B7ACKTHORN]

Hi All,

As recommended by everyone I would like to go for MOTUL 300V Factory Line 4T 15W50 (100% Synthetic; Double Ester Technology) for my Royal Enfield Classic 350. Before changing the engine oil I have a question here. Usually in cars if we use synthetic oil the drain period is higher comparing to mineral or semi synthetic oil. Like wise in Two wheeler the drain period for Mineral oil is 6K kilometers so what is the Drain period for 100% Synthetic oil how often I should change the engine oil? Suggestions welcome especially from people who used Synthetic oil in their RE Classic 350.

Thanks,
Vishwa

A mineral oil can in no way come to 6k and that's pure bullcrap, at the max you can extend is 3.2 for best results and rest is upto one's own discretion. That being said, why not try the 7100 single ester 20w50. If your bike is brand new or has clocked less KMS stick to Mineral, semi and then to fully syn. Bullets are prone to leak even with normal oils, and Motul 300V leaks in most of the bikes, due to the so called "double ester" technology. So make a good decision with what you intend to do.

Thanx Sir , I will shift for Valvoline 4T premium semi synthetic this week. And i will change it at every 3k for safe side.

Glad to help buddy.

Well, the engine oil for cars and bikes are absolutely different. Bike oils undergo more severity than the car oils.

Also, no mineral oil will last for 6k. The drain interval for mineral oil should be restricted to 2.5k.

Synth oil can be changed after 6k easily. Till then, no issues with it.



Semi synth oil has base oil of higher group. Mineral oil has the base group (Group 1).

Also, as you go from mineral to SS to FS, the base oil category improves and this helps in having extended drain intervals.

Higher the base oil, higher can be the drain interval.

Cheerz!!

Exactly. The additives are just added to base oils categorizing them in groups and it's mostly their viscosity index that gives them a slightly upper edge.

Cheers!
VJ