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Re: Engine Oils
Use anything, it hardly matters. Best would be to see manufacturer recomendation. And if you have a look, indian subcontinent bikes usually comes with 20w40, 15w50, 20w50 and 10w30 recommendation. All these have less than 1:3.5 ratio. 20w40 = 1:2, 15w40 = 1:3.3, 20w50 = 2.5, 10w30 = 1:3. For 10w40 = 1:4 (which has the widest range)Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostDoes sound scary, but if u see other countries they don't have the 20w40 grade at all, they use 10w40 motul 3000+ on their gsx and hayabusa and have given good reviews.
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10W40 operating range can be obtained by two ways:
1) Adding synthetic oil to the oil.
2) Using higher amount of VII polymers.
If its 1) you are actually better protected than 20w40 and other oils. If its 2) you are lesser protected. I believe it is 2). But its just a belief!
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Re: Engine Oils
Yes & Yes .Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostSo I should stick to 20w40? Is 10w40 faster degrading than 10w30?
As I have said Semi-Synthetic is mineral oil only with maybe few teaspoonfuls of some synthetic oil in it . It is mineral based oil so treat it as a mineral oil only . It has VII additives in it and has same problem . Like other mineral oil , I would drain it at 2000kms or 4 months , whichever occurs earlier .Originally posted by pixantz View PostHey Pinaki, you're sounding scary here. I'm using an SS 10W40 oil. Never came across a 10W40 mineral btw. Done 2K kms so far. It's working like a charm, by the way I 've not done much ripping on it. It's doing pretty good as of now... Whats your take on an SS 10W40 then...
P. S. - given that many manufacturers have 10W30 as recommended grade, W40 is better still ..
Do you know why you have not seen any 10w40 mineral oil ? They had so much problems with the quick degradation , and so many auto manufacturers banned it's use in their engines , that they had to stop making it . 10w40 was Honda's original recomended grade for almost entire asian region , they had problems in their engines and re-wrote all manuals to 10w30 now .
You are guessing wrongOriginally posted by petrolhead_chn View PostI guess the oil grade recommendation is directly dependent on the power generated by the engine or technically (bore x stroke). For higher powered engines (150cc and above) the heat generated would be more and less for underpowered engines (Splendor and likewise). So the oil should be capable enough to maintain the temperature of internal moving parts from wear and tear. This could also be another reason for different oil grades for different kind of bikes. It is always adviced to stick to manufacturer's recommendation of engine oil grade.
. If oil grade was not dependent on ambient temperatures , why would manufacturers publish charts that show grade-vs-temp ? Wouldn't those charts show power , cubic-capacity etc etc too ?
It is the opposite , smaller engines have less cooling area , less oil in the sump to circulate and has to work harder and at higher rpms to move the same loads . They spend almost all their lives in high revs , really hot and overloaded , compared to higher capacity engines which has a rather relaxed livelihood . So smaller engines , scooters and underbones have a tougher hotter life and would need better oils and more frequent oil changes . Isn't it ?
In those countries they really need 10 based oils since it gets to below freezing temps often . Also most of the oils they get is either fully synthetic or heavily doped with real synthetic ( like Amsoil ) . And they have laws and law enforcement that compels them to declare exactly how much synthetic oil they put in their semis and list specifications and components . Also they cannot sell lower quality highly-processed minerals as synthetics there . They don't have any 20w40 because they seldom use mineral oil and they seldom need a 20w based oil . 20w40 is a so low range oil that can be made with so little additives that nobody bothered to make a synthetic 20w40 ever . When it gets really hot ( like in california or australia in summer ) they get 20w50 or 15w50 synthetics .Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostDoes sound scary, but if u see other countries they don't have the 20w40 grade at all, they use 10w40 motul 3000+ on their gsx and hayabusa and have given good reviews ...Last edited by Pinaki; 07-07-2013, 01:48 PM.
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Re: Engine Oils
But SS oils come in mostly 10w40 or 15w50 I can't use both then?Originally posted by Pinaki View PostYes & Yes .
As I have said Semi-Synthetic is mineral oil only with maybe few teaspoonfuls of some synthetic oil in it . It is mineral based oil so treat it as a mineral oil only . It has VII additives in it and has same problem . Like other mineral oil , I would drain it at 2000kms or 4 months , whichever occurs earlier .
Do you know why you have not seen any 10w40 mineral oil ? They had so much problems with the quick degradation , and so many auto manufacturers banned it's use in their engines , that they had to stop making it . 10w40 was Honda's original recomended grade for almost entire asian region , they had problems in their engines and re-wrote all manuals to 10w30 now .
You are guessing wrong
. If oil grade was not dependent on ambient temperatures , why would manufacturers publish charts that show grade-vs-temp ? Wouldn't those charts show power , cubic-capacity etc etc too ?
It is the opposite , smaller engines have less cooling area , less oil in the sump to circulate and has to work harder and at higher rpms to move the same loads . They spend almost all their lives in high revs , really hot and overloaded , compared to higher capacity engines which has a rather relaxed livelihood . So smaller engines , scooters and underbones have a tougher hotter life and would need better oils and more frequent oil changes . Isn't it ?
In those countries they really need 10 based oils since it gets to below freezing temps often . Also most of the oils they get is either fully synthetic or heavily doped with real synthetic ( like Amsoil ) . And they have laws and law enforcement that compels them to declare exactly how much synthetic oil they put in their semis and list specifications and components . Also they cannot sell lower quality highly-processed minerals as synthetics there . They don't have any 20w40 because they seldom use mineral oil and they seldom need a 20w based oil . 20w40 is a so low range oil that can be made with so little additives that nobody bothered to make a synthetic 20w40 ever . When it gets really hot ( like in california or australia in summer ) they get 20w50 or 15w50 synthetics .
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Re: Engine Oils
Is there a way to find outOriginally posted by muztariq View PostUse anything, it hardly matters. Best would be to see manufacturer recomendation. And if you have a look, indian subcontinent bikes usually comes with 20w40, 15w50, 20w50 and 10w30 recommendation. All these have less than 1:3.5 ratio. 20w40 = 1:2, 15w40 = 1:3.3, 20w50 = 2.5, 10w30 = 1:3. For 10w40 = 1:4 (which has the widest range)
10W40 operating range can be obtained by two ways:
1) Adding synthetic oil to the oil.
2) Using higher amount of VII polymers.
If its 1) you are actually better protected than 20w40 and other oils. If its 2) you are lesser protected. I believe it is 2). But its just a belief!
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Re: Engine Oils
Whoops. I have been using AX7 since 3 months and 2800km in my RTR160. I have ripped it pretty hard. Should I be worried?Originally posted by Pinaki View PostYes & Yes .
As I have said Semi-Synthetic is mineral oil only with maybe few teaspoonfuls of some synthetic oil in it . It is mineral based oil so treat it as a mineral oil only . It has VII additives in it and has same problem . Like other mineral oil , I would drain it at 2000kms or 4 months , whichever occurs earlier .
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Re: Engine Oils
Motul 5100SS should last about 4k kmOriginally posted by jethmalani25 View Postwhat is life of motul if p220 is driven less than and equal to 60
and
what is life of motul if p220 is driven at 60's and accasionally burst at 80 and 90's? :what:
motul 5100 ss 15w50
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Re: Engine Oils
Regardless of the different facets of oil we have discussed and the inputs from all buddies here, I would like to share that I've been using nothing other than 15W40 and 10W40 oils since the past almost 4 years now and my ride never had any issue till date. And yes, I never change before 3.5K kms. Sometimes past 4K kms. Hope that says a lot about these oilsOriginally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostI'm not worried about anything happening to my bike, I'm worried that the ride quality shouldn't go down after 1k km.
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. Presently using Veedol 10W40. Done 2500 kms so far and feels as good as new.
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Re: Engine Oils
There's a 15w40 too? I thought only 15w50 is available. Anyway I'll buy 2l of 10w40 motul tomo, one for me nd my bros unicorn. I'll never know for sure unless I try myself.Originally posted by pixantz View PostRegardless of the different facets of oil we have discussed and the inputs from all buddies here, I would like to share that I've been using nothing other than 15W40 and 10W40 oils since the past almost 4 years now and my ride never had any issue till date. And yes, I never change before 3.5K kms. Sometimes past 4K kms. Hope that says a lot about these oils
. Presently using Veedol 10W40. Done 2500 kms so far and feels as good as new.
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Re: Engine Oils
15W40 oils are basically made for use in cars. Its not a bike oil. By the way, what were you using so far?Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostThere's a 15w40 too? I thought only 15w50 is available. Anyway I'll buy 2l of 10w40 motul tomo, one for me nd my bros unicorn. I'll never know for sure unless I try myself.
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