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Engine Oils
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Re: Engine Oils
Absolutely, I can vouch for seeing more four stroke fighting with two strokes in that area. From my experience I can say that the engine is still good to go for quite a few thousand KMS, though considering the mileage clocked it'd be a wise choice to get the head job done. But as a thumb rule, four stroke shouldn't puff smoke even when revved, but then very little puffs, is completely agreeable.Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostWasn't a continuous puff, and I don't see white smoke at all, I've seen UNIS on road smoking like an rx, mine has no smoke at all while riding.
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Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
THE END
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Re: Engine Oils
Well that's a relief, I don't yet have the needed funds to do the bike work yet since I'd like to get everything done at once, need to change the clutch assembly too. So hopefully by next month I'll get it done, that'll also give me some time to build some knowledge about engine work since its the first time I'm getting it done. Ill need urs, psr, pinaki and sibuns help on this.Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View PostAbsolutely, I can vouch for seeing more four stroke fighting with two strokes in that area. From my experience I can say that the engine is still good to go for quite a few thousand KMS, though considering the mileage clocked it'd be a wise choice to get the head job done. But as a thumb rule, four stroke shouldn't puff smoke even when revved, but then very little puffs, is completely agreeable.
Cheers!
VJ
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Re: Engine Oils
Bad news - it's about time and the bore is nearing end-of-life , so you'd better start thinking about a new cylinder-piston kit and saving up .
Good news - it is still just begun to go down and the loss of performance is not perceptible . i.e you have time . If you see the oil level drop again over a week of good use , use 20w50 (min) oil from now on . Top-up oil level a bit every weekend if necessary . With this heavier oil you can stave off the the engine work maybe for another 10-15 k kms . The idea is that thicker oil shall take up increased bearing slack and seal increased ring gaps better .
Your present oil is 10w40 , nahi ? being thinner I suspect it may reduce even faster .Last edited by Pinaki; 01-11-2014, 01:42 AM.
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Re: Engine Oils
Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostWell that's a relief, I don't yet have the needed funds to do the bike work yet since I'd like to get everything done at once, need to change the clutch assembly too. So hopefully by next month I'll get it done, that'll also give me some time to build some knowledge about engine work since its the first time I'm getting it done. Ill need urs, psr, pinaki and sibuns help on this.
Sent from my A7+ using Tapatalk 2Originally posted by Pinaki View PostBad news - it's about time and the bore is nearing end-of-life , so you'd better start thinking about a new cylinder-piston kit and saving up .
Good news - it is still just begun to go down and the loss of performance is not perceptible . i.e you have time . If you see the oil level drop again over a week of good use , use 20w50 (min) oil from now on . Top-up oil level a bit every weekend if necessary . With this heavier oil you can stave off the the engine work maybe for another 10-15 k kms . The idea is that thicker oil shall take up increased bearing slack and seal increased ring gaps better .
Your present oil is 10w40 , nahi ? being thinner I suspect it may reduce even faster .
Pinaki ji is right, using a thicker grade would help prolong the detrimental effects , plus though there is the initial drag using a thicker oil on a Honda. It's imperative that you don't rev the bike harder, just drive the bike sanely at which you and bike are comfy and overhaul the engine with all the right checklist ticked, at least until the engine is overhauled.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
THE END
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Re: Engine Oils
Problem is I just had enough money to buy an ss oil and I bought the shell, lol I'm way too broke right now, I'll keep the oil at check for now and yea I've been riding very sanely since I noticed the oil level drop.Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View PostPinaki ji is right, using a thicker grade would help prolong the detrimental effects , plus though there is the initial drag using a thicker oil on a Honda. It's imperative that you don't rev the bike harder, just drive the bike sanely at which you and bike are comfy and overhaul the engine with all the right checklist ticked, at least until the engine is overhauled.
Cheers!
VJ
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Re: Engine Oils
If you want the best then go for motul 300v or motul 7100, you can also go for shell ultra fs.Originally posted by chakresh View PostGuys don't kill me for this noon question but suggestions needed for the best engine oil on performance side for a 7000 odo fz16.
you live only once.....
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Re: Engine Oils
FZs do well with Valvoline and Shell AX7 you can consider 5100 in Motul series for good performance.Originally posted by chakresh View PostGuys don't kill me for this noon question but suggestions needed for the best engine oil on performance side for a 7000 odo fz16.
you live only once.....
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
THE END
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Re: Engine Oils
Yaar ....frankly speaking I am using motul 5100.....but don't feel anything special about itOriginally posted by B7ACKTHORN View PostFZs do well with Valvoline and Shell AX7 you can consider 5100 in Motul series for good performance.
Cheers!
VJ
you live only once.....Keep ur friends close.....but keep ur enemies closer.
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Re: Engine Oils
Using any oil, you won't feel the difference right away, though initial perks might be improved smoothness and then starts on from there. If you're not satisfied with 5100 why not consisder a fully synthetic like Shell AX7 Ultra a cost effective alternative to 7100 and the likeOriginally posted by chakresh View PostYaar ....frankly speaking I am using motul 5100.....but don't feel anything special about it
you live only once.....
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
THE END
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Re: Engine Oils
+1 for valvoline 4t premium. You would right away feel smoother gear shiftsOriginally posted by B7ACKTHORN View PostFZs do well with Valvoline and Shell AX7 you can consider 5100 in Motul series for good performance.
Cheers!
VJ
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Re: Engine Oils
You can get an empty 1l engine oil can from a mechanic shop. Filling the can upto the bottom of the thread would give 1.1l I guessOriginally posted by ashwanth.r View PostAm nearing the oil change which should happen this weekend
. If I choose to go with a 5L can of Delvac/R4, can I bargain the price than that of the printed one? Also where can I get a decent measuring container/jar? - GS requires 1100 ml of oil if filter too is changed.
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