Engine Oils

[maadyy]

Re: Engine Oils

Mine is p150 ug4. I have a fair experience with motul 3100 20w50

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[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

Dude pulsar is such a bike which has grown up all this years with certain characters like the loudness , typical horn, chain slack issue, bike going towards left or right (stability). I hope every pulsaraian will agree to it . It was anothere veteran pulsaraian who actually suggested me from his experience that SS or FS actually tend to vaporise. But at the same time I will definitely like to mention that there are definitely certain pulsaraians who are exceptional and won't agree to what I had said. Because there are certain things to be considered like riding style or location where the bike is ridden. So i belive the heat is exactly the right thing as mentioned. Since no perfect reason can be traced as a source. It can be certainly traced on the path that I was running reach and when the incident took place I was travelling at around 117kmph. But I have maintained my bike the best possible it can be. So I believe SS or FS is not the right engine oil to fight the heat generated by pulsars. If I am not wrong pulsars posses one of the most stressed engine.

Experts correct me if I am wrong.

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I've seen most Pulsars, Apaches and I haven't heard from anyone complaining about their oil level getting drastically going down, in fact from people who don't even change the oil regularly. This is not just a fact in Pulsars as such, but in most bikes and quite a few bikes that are, during the run in period (though very rare). Oil as you know only can handle it's viscosity to a certain extent and after that it becomes vapour when then combusts and causes oil reduction.

And no Pulsar's engine aren't stressed, it's just that they rattle so much that they feel stressed. Yes refinement engineers in Bajaj need to give their reality a check especially for the Pulsar 150 to 220 series, but amazingly good in the 200 NS. So yes, I'd say that's the character of the bike.

Cheers!
VJ

[Lokesh027]

Re: Engine Oils

Here, I am sharing my experience on engine oil evaporation/ level decrease.
I have learnt that if a bike engine is made to run on 20wxx grade oil( high viscosity) for thousands of kms( obviously 10, 20 or more) then any other oil of lower viscosity(5wxx , 10wxx, 15wxx) will evaporate or burn for sure depending upon the extent of engine wear. Be it any mineral, ss, fs.
There are some exceptions too depending upon other factors.

Tapatalk

[fahimclm]

Re: Engine Oils

First off, please take a little time to type it down, what you're intending to say in proper format. Pulser, feelind, deos, all makes one look like an ape man who's still honing on tool skills. Please make sure you don't repeat such basic mistakes.

Now to your query, yes engine does play an important role in noise reduction and smoothness of an engine. Secondly, make sure you the proper service schedule is followed, most bikes have issues only after service. Secondly make sure you use the grade, using a lesser grade will over heat and cause harshness.

Cheers!
VJ

Done first service at 500km and second service at 2750 and 3 service is in this week.its only 4800kms done so far.3rd service km is 10000 to 12500.there was an issue of open hole in pipe attached to carburetor which now cleared by cleaning carburetor and adding new pipe.

[fahimclm]

Re: Engine Oils

Done first service at 500km and second service at 2750 and 3 service is in this week.its only 4800kms done so far.3rd service km is 10000 to 12500.there was an issue of open hole in pipe attached to carburetor which now cleared by cleaning carburetor and adding new pipe.

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[Aniruddha Shinde]

Re: Engine Oils

I have just started using Motul 3100 Gold 20w50, as I mentioned earlier.. But Engine is I thought heating up. I checked with mec. but he said nothing to worry about.. But I don't feel gud about this. Even after 10 kms drive I could feel heat.. Please suggest.. I am using Avy 220

[Pinaki]

Re: Engine Oils

check 1) oil-filter is new 2) no mud-flaps etc obstruction to air-flow to engine or oil-cooler 3) cooling fins & body of engine and oil cooler is clean 4) clutch is correctly adjusted and there is correct freeplay at lever 5) check from service that oil is circulating ok to and from oil cooler 6) carburettor is not adjusted too lean 7) wheels rotating freely and no brake-binding .

[maadyy]

Re: Engine Oils

I've seen most Pulsars, Apaches and I haven't heard from anyone complaining about their oil level getting drastically going down, in fact from people who don't even change the oil regularly. This is not just a fact in Pulsars as such, but in most bikes and quite a few bikes that are, during the run in period (though very rare). Oil as you know only can handle it's viscosity to a certain extent and after that it becomes vapour when then combusts and causes oil reduction.

And no Pulsar's engine aren't stressed, it's just that they rattle so much that they feel stressed. Yes refinement engineers in Bajaj need to give their reality a check especially for the Pulsar 150 to 220 series, but amazingly good in the 200 NS. So yes, I'd say that's the character of the bike.

Cheers!
VJ

200NS is always in a different league but still if you check with 200NS users lot of them are complaining about hand stability. Anyways my point was that Pulsars (150) mostly doesn't support FS/ SS. It's not oil levels going down drastically but different problems due to oil. I have used 20w40 , 20w50 and 15w50 grade of oil in my pulsar. After an ownership of 2 years I faced the issue when for the first time I switched to 15W50. Given below in the link you can see another Pulsarian facing issue when he switched to FS.

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcycle-ownership-experiences/4984-bajaj-pulsar-150-all-versions-119.html#post1029486

[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

Here, I am sharing my experience on engine oil evaporation/ level decrease.
I have learnt that if a bike engine is made to run on 20wxx grade oil( high viscosity) for thousands of kms( obviously 10, 20 or more) then any other oil of lower viscosity(5wxx , 10wxx, 15wxx) will evaporate or burn for sure depending upon the extent of engine wear. Be it any mineral, ss, fs.
There are some exceptions too depending upon other factors.

Tapatalk

I'd like to correct your notion here, though you are right about grades, vaporizing doesn't happen if the number before W 0 5 10 15 20, it's how the oil flows when the engine/ambient temperature is cold. Oil vaporizes at high temperatures, not low temperatures. Hope you got the point.

I have just started using Motul 3100 Gold 20w50, as I mentioned earlier.. But Engine is I thought heating up. I checked with mec. but he said nothing to worry about.. But I don't feel gud about this. Even after 10 kms drive I could feel heat.. Please suggest.. I am using Avy 220

Even I've faced heating issues, when I drive in and around city, not during highway stints, but not to the extent that I can feel the it burning my legs, but yes you can feel the heat breezing around. And if I remember correctly I think it was the 3000T I suppose which had this issue, most other fared real real well, including 3100. Check your AFR and check if it's on the leaner side, and also keep an eye on the oil level at this stage, because overheating does tend to reduce oil level. Make sure you have an eye on the window pane when you stop overnight and are prepping for a long ride. If you see oil level dropping considerably then try changing the oil, else, it's absolutely not a problem.

Cheers!
VJ

[muztariq]

Re: Engine Oils

Today went to buy oil for my car. Was looking for API SJ or above specification when I struck this oil.

ELF Perfomance 3D

Its a diesel engine oil having both API SL and CI-4 certification. As this would work for all my vehicles and I have very good previous experience with Total/Elf oil. I have brought it home.

The Mobil Delvac was 2K km old but had done 7-8 months in service. Put this oil in my bike today, would update after munching some kilometers. Though I doubt there would be anything better than Delvac on my bike.

Images of the can follows:

[Pinaki]

Re: Engine Oils

... Its a diesel engine oil having both API SL and CI-4 certification ...

It is not API certified oil , since it does not bear the certification symbol . The manufacturer says that it conforms to the API certification requirements as per their own in-house tests - but they did not actually send it up to API for testing and certification . It is like saying that I am a doctor but I didn't actually appear for the medical exams . ..

[tej1]

Re: Engine Oils

Using different viscosity oils in summer and winter does makes any changes to the engine

heart of bikes

[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

It is not API certified oil , since it does not bear the certification symbol . The manufacturer says that it conforms to the API certification requirements as per their own in-house tests - but they did not actually send it up to API for testing and certification . It is like saying that I am a doctor but I didn't actually appear for the medical exams . ..

Though you've mentioned yourself quite a few times, that there are oil that have the API homologation but aren't printed in the pouch/can, whereas any oil that are attested do need to have that homologation when commercially sold. And I think the can clearly says "Above claims are against standard API CL4 specification engine tests" so there you have it. It might not be a genuine certified one, but may have put to the test according to API CL 4 Standards

Using different viscosity oils in summer and winter does makes any changes to the engine

heart of bikes

There isn't a need to use different grade or VI of oils for different climates, unless you're in Siberia and in Florida travelling to and forth. The grade that the manufacturer recommends (see your owners manual) is more than enough to handle most climatic conditions. But never mix up two different grades of oil with different viscosity.

Cheers!
VJ

[Aniruddha Shinde]

Re: Engine Oils

Even I've faced heating issues, when I drive in and around city, not during highway stints, but not to the extent that I can feel the it burning my legs, but yes you can feel the heat breezing around. And if I remember correctly I think it was the 3000T I suppose which had this issue, most other fared real real well, including 3100. Check your AFR and check if it's on the leaner side, and also keep an eye on the oil level at this stage, because overheating does tend to reduce oil level. Make sure you have an eye on the window pane when you stop overnight and are prepping for a long ride. If you see oil level dropping considerably then try changing the oil, else, it's absolutely not a problem.

Cheers!
VJ [/QUOTE]
Thanks BLACKTHORN for sharing your experience.. Just today I was gone for short trip around 100 kms. In various conditions like Heavy, Moderate and tempting open stretches. Bike was doing considerably well. No heating issue. You are right heating was issue in stop and go traffic. I checked oil level its gud.. Thanks again for your valuable rply...

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[muztariq]

Re: Engine Oils

It is not API certified oil , since it does not bear the certification symbol . The manufacturer says that it conforms to the API certification requirements as per their own in-house tests - but they did not actually send it up to API for testing and certification . It is like saying that I am a doctor but I didn't actually appear for the medical exams . ..

You are right, it doesnt have that symbol. But oils made in India are not carrying that symbol. The reason is that Indian consumer does not look at that symbol but the US consumer selects oils based on that symbol. Secondly, oil companies have to pay a royalty to use that symbol. Indian industry is full of competition and no one wants to spend on a useless symbol (in Indian context).
Just go to any oil shop to buy an oil with that symbol, if you are lucky, you would get an imported oil having that symbol or else you would come back empty handed.

If you are buying an oil from a good manufacturer - Mobil, Motul, Shell, Elf, Total etc etc just mark their words on API classification.

Coming back to the oil. ELF Performance 3D 15W-40 is very easily flowing oil and is kind of thin w.r.t Mobil Delvac 1300. It has no characteristic of a Diesel engine oil except smoothness. The oil was behaving more like a 10w40 motorcycle specific oil. The feeling was like a person using 20w40 shifts to 10w30. Positive point is that the bike has started accelerating quicker than before. The downside is that at high rpms the engine feels less protected. I would explain more about this word feel.
On delvac, the internals of the engine were feeling heavy, like its on a thick oil. But on this oil there is no heaviness. Imagine a thin film vs a thick one.

I was used to the engine heaviness on delvac and after shifting to this oil, I will have to get accustomed to the engine response, as its smooth and light and I can't use the sluggishness in engine to control the bike. The bike is responding faster to throttle.

I then read about CI-4 classification. What is there in it which is making this diesel engine oil behave like petrol engine oil. There are in total 15 tests which are performed in these oils:

The new tests or existing tests with new limits are:
• Mack T-10 (EGR) (Ring, Liner, Bearing Wear, and Oil Consumption)
• Cummins M11 EGR (Ring, Valve Train Wear, Filter Delta P, and Sludge)
• Caterpillar 1R (Piston Deposits and Oil Consumption)
• Mack T-8E (Soot Dispersancy)
• Sequence IIIF (Oil Oxidation and Oil Consumption)
• Low Temperature Pumpability for Oil Containing five percent Soot
• High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity
• Elastomer Compatibility
• Volatility
The six remaining tests in the category are in the existing API CH-4 category and are carried into API CI-4, making a total of 15 tests. API CI-4 is a backward-compatible category. Simply, if the requirements of API CI-4 are met, oil companies can claim API CH-4, CG-4, and CF-4 without running any further tests

Source: SN CI-4 Diesel Fuel Feature

If you have time go through the whole article. Its quite informative.

Remember my posts where I cautioned lower cc engines to keep away from Delvac? Primarily because the oil appeared quite thick(like a 20W50) in the engine. This oil can easily be used in those engines. But now the problem.. It costs 280rs/litre. I doubt that anyone would be interested in this oil when AX7 sells at around 330/litre. And 10w30 gulf synth (as mentioned by Pinakiji) trades at 300 odd rs.

The benefits of CI-4 oils are Low Piston Deposits, Low Oil consumption, More soot dispersant, better protection from oil oxidation, easily flows in low temperature even with 5% soot content, High shear/High temperature protection, Less volatile and Compatibility with common elastomers used in seals etc.

But frankly, the more closer you get to the most recent API spec oil the more you will have to pay. Why CI-4 are better is given in this very informative source- http://www.hddeo.com/ViscosityModifierPart2.html