Engine Oils

[Saurabh213]

Re: Engine Oils

Hi guys

I have Suzuki slingshot 125 and ride around 2.5 k KM a month so. .


The query is :
Is mineral oil is enough with regular change or should I change to a semi synthetic/full synthetic oil. .

If so which. .

my manual says 20w40. .


One of mY friend told. .as I ride too much need to have a better oil. .as in mineral I need to change every month. .

Yes, He Is Somewhat Right
You Can Use Semi-Synthetic Or Fully Synthetic Depending On Your Budget..
These Oils Can Stretch For 4k-5k kms Depending On Riding Conditions..

[Pinaki]

Re: Engine Oils

... I have Suzuki slingshot 125 and ride around 2.5 k KM a month so. .
The query is : Is mineral oil is enough with regular change or should I change to a semi synthetic/full synthetic oil. ... If so which. . ..my manual says 20w40...

What you are doing is correct and the better practice - continue with any good oil of 20w40 grade and replace it monthly (in your case) . Standard recomendation for motorcycles under normal service is 3000 kms or 6 months , whichever comes early . For severe service , both limits are to be appropriately shortened .

[ankur2smart]

Re: Engine Oils

Changing oil at intervals of 8 months is too long, change it at 90-100 days interval.

Cheerz!!

Keep a limit of 6 months or 3000kms which ever is earlier...with motul 7100fs. I see your running is quite low hence its better... not letting oil sit too long in an engine and not running too much on the same oil....

Divyansh....

I have given my bike at Auto Service, Bangalore since the beginning as they are the only centre I am aware of who keeps Motul Oil. Its because of this, change interval is 8 months as 4 months is the service duration. Also, I am very happy with Motul, so don't know what to do


Sent from my Nexus 4 using xBhp Connect mobile app

[devils_friend]

Re: Engine Oils

I have given my bike at Auto Service, Bangalore since the beginning as they are the only centre I am aware of who keeps Motul Oil. Its because of this, change interval is 8 months as 4 months is the service duration. Also, I am very happy with Motul, so don't know what to do


Sent from my Nexus 4 using xBhp Connect mobile app

I suppose you have a Bajaj bike, so if you service at any Bajaj SVC, they will have Motul. If not, you can change oil yourself.

Cheerz!!

[Saurabh213]

Re: Engine Oils

today after changing the oil of my scoot i decided to go for a short run and then check the oil level and top-up if needed..
but this is what i found

the oil turned black and lost it's viscosity just after riding 5kms..
the yellow oil on the left is the new oil(shell ax5) and the black one is 5kms old oil...

[Honda_abhi]

Re: Engine Oils

Last oil change was done at 20-04-2014 with ODO being 14,040 kms. Current ODO is close to 17k. The oil is Motul 7100 FS
In all of my past services, I have been following method of changing oil in 8 months(2 services) as I had never exceeded the limit in terms of distance.
Is this a good practice?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Contrary to the belief of a lot of xbhp members, the number of months does not matter. Unless your bike just remains without starting for more than a week. If you are driving even 2 kms per day then what matters is the odometer reading.

for mineral oil - oilchange after 2.5 - 3K kms
for semi synthetic oil - oilchange after 4 - 4.5K kms
for synthetic oil - oil change after 5 - 6K kms

After reading this, half the xbhp members will go . But this is what professionals world over follow.
Unless you have a lot of money and are unduly paranoid about your bike then you can buy fully synthetic oil and change it after every 2K kms. But that is not necessary.
After all the bike engine is not made of blotting paper or cheap plastic.. Nowadays, the cylinders of engines are either silicon or graphite coated. And the engine oil technology has also evolved in the past 10 yrs.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

today after changing the oil of my scoot i decided to go for a short run and then check the oil level and top-up if needed..
but this is what i found

the oil turned black and lost it's viscosity just after riding 5kms..
the yellow oil on the left is the new oil(shell ax5) and the black one is 5kms old oil...

The oil is not the culprit. Have you been telling the mechanic to change oil during servicing. If yes, then your mechanic might be changing the oil when the engine is cold. ALWAYS change engine oil when the engine is HOT
Just remember that oil itself has detergent properties and its secondary responsibility is to keep the engine clean from dirt and gunk. If you change the engine oil when it is cold, then the oil has already deposited all the dirt on the metal parts and that dirt you can see now in the oil which is just 5kms old

My advise would be to run the scoot for 10 - 15 kms at around 40 - 50 kms/hr. without waiting for the engine to cool take the scooter to a oil bunk and change the oil when it is hot. This will remove all the gunk from your engine.

[Divyanshp150]

Re: Engine Oils

today after changing the oil of my scoot i decided to go for a short run and then check the oil level and top-up if needed..
but this is what i found
[ATTACH=CONFIG]157031[/ATTACH]
the oil turned black and lost it's viscosity just after riding 5kms..
the yellow oil on the left is the new oil(shell ax5) and the black one is 5kms old oil...

You my friend have either/all/some of the following issues with your ride
1)rubbish fuel quality in your area.
2)not original oil(bad, elchepo ,duplicate,fake oil) handed over to you.
3) a lot of sludge and carbon buildup in your engine...
4) you need to flush this baby unless its burning oil already!
5) your carb tuning is ultra rich....

For instance my pulsar is well over 90k kms old...I pour in oil... it still looks fresh after 200 odd kms or so.
(please note blackening of the oil is an inherent property of both the engine as well as the oil...it simply denotes the enhmgine and the oil are working....its this real quick blackening that should get you worried)

Contrary to the belief of a lot of xbhp members, the number of months does not matter. Unless your bike just remains without starting for more than a week. If you are driving even 2 kms per day then what matters is the odometer reading.

for mineral oil - oilchange after 2.5 - 3K kms
for semi synthetic oil - oilchange after 4 - 4.5K kms
for synthetic oil - oil change after 5 - 6K kms

After reading this, half the xbhp members will go . But this is what professionals world over follow.
Unless you have a lot of money and are unduly paranoid about your bike then you can buy fully synthetic oil and change it after every 2K kms. But that is not necessary.
After all the bike engine is not made of blotting paper or cheap plastic.. Nowadays, the cylinders of engines are either silicon or graphite coated. And the engine oil technology has also evolved in the past 10 yrs.

Well....
im kidding brother... how are you? how is life?
You Re correct but may I expand this topic further for better understanding?
Oil doesn't degrade very easily(try to locate the expiry date of oil on the can! Even if you get it...its very long..) but some engine parts do...like oil seals,gaskets yada yada... issue with oil now a days is the oil has a lot of additives in it... you let these sit they will 'settle down' inside the sump..if I may...oils also require a run in contrary to popular belief... I believe the heat and initial running in is essential for the oil to...well...react/gel in with the engine...and all the additives to stabilise/coat the engine surfaces... also synthetics are known to digest/eat through whole gaskets if you let them!(letting them sit)
now back to the point
1) if you let old oil stay in the bike (running) it will increase wear and tear in the engine since its lubricating properties have been exhausted, if I may.
2) if you let new/not very old oil sit in a bike(very less running) if will aid sludge buildup and accelerated gasket failure along with increased wear on rubber o rings and seals...
3) new oil if run to proper hearing temerature and then allowed to cool(say 2km running also per day or even 30 mins of active engine running) will help the oil last longer and be less detrimental to the engine in the long tun compared to just letting it sit...
4) letting old oil sit(non running) in the engine......aghhhh..:banghead:..well you probably understand now... sludge buildup, carbon deposits and all the things the doctor dosent prescribe for your bikes engine/ your pocket in the long run....

(please dont mind the humor...if any...and dont forget to redline once in a while...the extreme conditions will break out sludge etc in the engine and the adrenaline rush will help clear your heart of arteriosclerosis i.e cholesterol and sludge buildup due to all the oil/tel/masala/ghee we consume ! Call it double decreasing /decarbonization!)
Divyansh....

[Amit_tRB]

Re: Engine Oils

Hello, I want to use Motul 300V in my Hero Honda Hunk. But confused about 10W-40 and 15W-50. Which 1 I sould go for? Please help me

[Honda_abhi]

Re: Engine Oils

im kidding brother... how are you? how is life?
You Re correct but may I expand this topic further for better understanding?
Oil doesn't degrade very easily(try to locate the expiry date of oil on the can! Even if you get it...its very long..) but some engine parts do...like oil seals,gaskets yada yada... issue with oil now a days is the oil has a lot of additives in it... you let these sit they will 'settle down' inside the sump..if I may...oils also require a run in contrary to popular belief... I believe the heat and initial running in is essential for the oil to...well...react/gel in with the engine...and all the additives to stabilise/coat the engine surfaces... also synthetics are known to digest/eat through whole gaskets if you let them!(letting them sit)
now back to the point
1) if you let old oil stay in the bike (running) it will increase wear and tear in the engine since its lubricating properties have been exhausted, if I may.
2) if you let new/not very old oil sit in a bike(very less running) if will aid sludge buildup and accelerated gasket failure along with increased wear on rubber o rings and seals...
3) new oil if run to proper hearing temerature and then allowed to cool(say 2km running also per day or even 30 mins of active engine running) will help the oil last longer and be less detrimental to the engine in the long tun compared to just letting it sit...
4) letting old oil sit(non running) in the engine......aghhhh..:banghead:..well you probably understand now... sludge buildup, carbon deposits and all the things the doctor dosent prescribe for your bikes engine/ your pocket in the long run....

(please dont mind the humor...if any...and dont forget to redline once in a while...the extreme conditions will break out sludge etc in the engine and the adrenaline rush will help clear your heart of arteriosclerosis i.e cholesterol and sludge buildup due to all the oil/tel/masala/ghee we consume ! Call it double decreasing /decarbonization!)
Divyansh....

Hi Divyansh.

I am doing good. How is life treating u? Hope everything is going good !!

I understand what u r saying. Thts why I said that "Unless your bike just remains without starting for more than a week. If you are driving even 2 kms per day then what matters is the odometer reading."

So if u take out u r bike for a ride everyday, then the oil will not sit and there wont be any sludge buildup. Even 2 kms everyday is ok. In this case the months will not matter. What matters is odometer reading.

Anyways I will tell you my experience. I have a Honda Dream neo 110 cc for the past 1 year. I drive it 50 kms daily. My average speed is 60 kms/hr. 20% highway, 80% city driving. I use motul 20W40 (mineral) or Shell Ax5 (mineral). I do oil change after 2.5 - 3K kms. My bike has completed 12k kms in 1 yr still it gives mileage of 72 kms/liter. Company claim is 74 kms/liter. Drives as good as new brand bike.

Moral: U can safely use mineral oil for 2.5 K - 3K kms if u dont rev ur bike hard and dont go beyond speeds of 60 -65kms/hr.

Anyways, its individual opinion. My boss has RE350. He puts in fully synthetic oil and changes after every 2k KMs. But then he is financially sky high.

[Saurabh213]

Re: Engine Oils

You my friend have either/all/some of the following issues with your ride
1)rubbish fuel quality in your area.
2)not original oil(bad, elchepo ,duplicate,fake oil) handed over to you.
3) a lot of sludge and carbon buildup in your engine...
4) you need to flush this baby unless its burning oil already!
5) your carb tuning is ultra rich....

For instance my pulsar is well over 90k kms old...I pour in oil... it still looks fresh after 200 odd kms or so.
(please note blackening of the oil is an inherent property of both the engine as well as the oil...it simply denotes the enhmgine and the oil are working....its this real quick blackening that should get you worried)
Divyansh....

1)rubbish fuel quality in your area.I Don't Belive (But Can Be)
2)not original oil(bad, elchepo ,duplicate,fake oil) handed over to you.No.The Oil Was Original And Was Manufactured In 2/2014
3) a lot of sludge and carbon buildup in your engine... Yes This Is The Main Culprit,I Feel
4) you need to flush this baby unless its burning oil already! Oil Is Burning
5) your carb tuning is ultra rich....No,I Never Touched The Carb,But Got That tuned From ASC During Service+I Am Getting A Mileage Of 37+kmpl That Too With Insane Acceleration ..

For instance my pulsar is well over 90k kms old...I pour in oil... it still looks fresh after 200 odd kms or so.
(please note blackening of the oil is an inherent property of both the engine as well as the oil...it simply denotes the enhmgine and the oil are working....its this real quick blackening that should get you worried)

[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

Hello, I want to use Motul 300V in my Hero Honda Hunk. But confused about 10W-40 and 15W-50. Which 1 I sould go for? Please help me

300V for the HUNK is totally an overkill. I'd suggest, the best oil for the Karizma would be 3100 and the 3000T. 300V may not be recommended for the bike.

today after changing the oil of my scoot i decided to go for a short run and then check the oil level and top-up if needed..
but this is what i found
[ATTACH=CONFIG]157031[/ATTACH]
the oil turned black and lost it's viscosity just after riding 5kms..
the yellow oil on the left is the new oil(shell ax5) and the black one is 5kms old oil...

Did you check the oil completely cold, or did you just straightaway took a hot engine oil, and did a drip test. The left must obviously be from a new can, the second is the one that's in question. Oil heated to an extent even with 5 KMS, will just drip faster due to the inherent heat and the sludge induced weight on the oil itself, it's absolutely normal. I'd suggest you to let the bike cool completely and then check a new one with the used one. But still it's perfectly normal.

Cheers!
VJ

[Honda_abhi]

Re: Engine Oils

Hello, I want to use Motul 300V in my Hero Honda Hunk. But confused about 10W-40 and 15W-50. Which 1 I sould go for? Please help me

Hi There,

How r u?

the Hunk has a recommended oil grade of 10W30 by tide water company (Veedol). see below link

Bike maintenance tips, bike maintenance, bikes maintenance - Hero Motocorp Ltd.

Still, if u want want to change grades then go for 10W40.

15W50 is a strict no-no. It will put strain on your engine. bike will feel sluggish. Cold start problems, less mileage. and loads of other issues.

Better stick to 10W30 or 10W40.

[Saurabh213]

Re: Engine Oils

300V for the HUNK is totally an overkill. I'd suggest, the best oil for the Karizma would be 3100 and the 3000T. 300V may not be recommended for the bike.



Did you check the oil completely cold, or did you just straightaway took a hot engine oil, and did a drip test. The left must obviously be from a new can, the second is the one that's in question. Oil heated to an extent even with 5 KMS, will just drip faster due to the inherent heat and the sludge induced weight on the oil itself, it's absolutely normal. I'd suggest you to let the bike cool completely and then check a new one with the used one. But still it's perfectly normal.

Cheers!
VJ

Sir,
It's Not The Thickness Or Viscosity Of Oil I Am Worried About..
It's The Color That Reflects The Health Of My Engine..

[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

Sir,
It's Not The Thickness Or Viscosity Of Oil I Am Worried About..
It's The Color That Reflects The Health Of My Engine..

I think you didn't contemplate my post a little deeper But here's it again, any new oil, the moment it's in an engine will turn to mild black, it's perfectly normal. Remember, unless you do a pukka engine flush wherein the remaining drips of gunk and oil is flushed out of the engine's crevices, you won't see a clear oil either you ride 5 or 10 kms. But if we do a normal on-the-go oil change, the color you see is absolutely perfect, it doesn't mean the oil is getting bad. Indeed it's doing it's job right keeping all the gunk suspended.

The color you see is because the oil is mixed with the oil oil that's already present in the engine and the carbon that's already being present in the combustion chamber etc.

P.S. Consider changing your oil filter ( if it's a bike) or an engine flush if you have a scooter, but not every single time, a interval of 10k KMS is advisable.

Cheers!
VJ

[SparKot]

Re: Engine Oils

...
1)rubbish fuel quality in your area.
2)not original oil(bad, elchepo ,duplicate,fake oil) handed over to you.
3) a lot of sludge and carbon buildup in your engine...
4) you need to flush this baby unless its burning oil already!
5) your carb tuning is ultra rich....
...

Also, it's often complained that rear mounted engines run hotter due to less aeration/ventilation. In scooters that is rear & under the skirt like body-panel. Perhaps someone can shed some more light on it.