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Re: Engine Oils
I am a bit confused between Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 10W40 and Motul 7100 10W40.Please help out which one should I switch to.Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View PostMost brands are very competitive and quality is mostly at par...if your bike has crossed 10000km then you can switch over to any good quality synthetic oil...of the 10w30 grade for your extreme. shell,veedol, and motul 300v being the most expensive of the lot... make it a habit... if tou bike is left for more than 5 hours assign it as a cold start and let the bike idel stationary on the main stand for 1 min. count to sixty in your head and give the bike a nice wipe clean in that 60secnds or so... this initial warming up will ensure ideal oil temperatures and a healthy engine..
Divyansh....
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Re: Engine Oils
IMO Motul 300V Is Better Used At TracksOriginally posted by Joseph Barun Nayak View PostI am a bit confused between Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 10W40 and Motul 7100 10W40.Please help out which one should I switch to.
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For Streets Better Go With Motul 7100..
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Originally posted by Honda_abhi View PostIf oil levels are dropping, go in for a new piston rings, new oil rings and new block-piston set. It is near to impossible to seat new piston rings on old block piston. If u keep old block piston you might endup with loss of compression. Then u will have to open engine again and u will end up paying double labor charges.
As u are opening the engine, why not replace block-piston also. You will get a brand new engine in around 5K rupees.Lot Of Questions Are Arising In My Head..Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View PostI dont think so brother... problem is when you decarbonise the head and thr engine at whole a lot of the carbon maintaining the engine compression will be lost.... bike will start consuning more oil...
Divyansh....
Is It The Relevant Place To Discuss ?
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Re: Engine Oils
One thing I noticed while changing my Unicorn's engine oil recently is that if one puts just 900 ml/1 l of oil at change, then smoothness goes away after a short time but if you get anal about it and put that 200 ml extra and make it 1.2 ltr into the engine then the purr is much more enhanced and the gear shift stays smooth for much longer duration. 500 kms done and the ordinary mineral engine oil is still golden in colour.
I can't see results getting any better than this, because if the engine makes even lesser noise then I would not even know if the bike is running, as the sound is so subdued. Better to stick to mineral like HP Racer or Servo 4T and change a bit more frequently rather than use synthetic.
Also cleaned the chain myself and lubed up with Wurth chain lube. So the remaining gruffness from the chain was also gone. Also recommend 20W-40 ordinary mineral oil rather than any of the Honda generic 10W-30 as the engine stays cool for much longer.Last edited by almondnine; 09-24-2014, 05:28 PM.
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Re: Engine Oils
Motul 3000 4T And Shell 20W40 Oil Are Good Mineral Oils..Originally posted by almondnine View PostOne thing I noticed while changing my Unicorn's engine oil recently is that if one puts just 900 ml/1 l of oil at change, then smoothness goes away after a short time but if you get anal about it and put that 200 ml extra and make it 1.2 ltr into the engine then the purr is much more enhanced and the gear shift stays smooth for much longer duration. 500 kms done and the ordinary mineral engine oil is still golden in colour.
I can't see results getting any better than this, because if the engine makes even lesser noise then I would not even know if the bike is running, as the sound is so subdued. Better to stick to mineral like HP Racer or Servo 4T and change a bit more frequently rather than use synthetic.
Also cleaned the chain myself and lubed up with Wurth chain lube. So the remaining gruffness from the chain was also gone. Also recommend 20W-40 ordinary mineral oil rather than any of the Honda generic 10W-30 as the engine stays cool for much longer.
But Wait For Other's Reply...
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Re: Engine Oils
Forget the ml thing while filling oil . That is the very wrong way to fill oil . Fill upto correct level ( between min & max marks ) by the dipstick or level-window .Originally posted by almondnine View PostOne thing I noticed while changing my Unicorn's engine oil recently is that if one puts just 900 ml/1 l of oil at change, then smoothness goes away after a short time but if you get anal about it and put that 200 ml extra and make it 1.2 ltr into the engine then ..
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Re: Engine Oils
So I have finally got Motul 7100 20w50 for my NS. Most of the dealers in my area had either old stock from 2012, or they didn't have it at all. One of them even suggested Motul 5100 instead. Saying it's the same thing, just that it costs lesser. I backed away from that shop slowly. Anyway, it was like mining for gold, and now I know why.
After getting rid of the sludge called Bajaj Genuine Engine Oil 20W50, and replacing it with Motul, I didn't really feel any difference initially. Felt sluggish, and made noise. Same as before.
After 10 minutes of running the engine, the bike transformed and how. The gear shifts were smooth as butter. The acceleration was crisp and never did I feel like I was going to redline. It felt at ease even at around 9000 rpm. On a few occasions while upshifting, I even felt like I'd pop my front wheel if I throttled any more.
The engine noise has gone down considerably. The vibrations are a lot less. The strain on the engine seems to have gone.
And this is only after a 8 km ride.
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Re: Engine Oils
Hey buddy please mention your the make and model of your rideOriginally posted by Joseph Barun Nayak View PostHey buddy I have some oils in my mind,plz help me pick 1 with suitable grade
1.Motul 7100
2.Castrol Power 1
3.Motul 300V
And motul is also producing sone racing concept engine oils what are they ?
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Here?Sure if its related to engine oils... you can pm me before hand.....ill answer whatever jt may beOriginally posted by Saurabh213 View PostIMO Motul 300V Is Better Used At Tracks
For Streets Better Go With Motul 7100..
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Lot Of Questions Are Arising In My Head..
Is It The Relevant Place To Discuss ?
Divyansh....
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Re: Engine Oils
Its Cbz xtreme 3rd model 2011 make !!!!Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View PostHey buddy please mention your the make and model of your ride
Here?Sure if its related to engine oils... you can pm me before hand.....ill answer whatever jt may be
Divyansh....
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Re: Engine Oils
Ahh after 8 kms because oils also require a runn in and initially takes longer to heat up to its optimal temp.... also a lot of additives are present that get activated on first heat up and all sorts of chemical reactions happenOriginally posted by MarkNS View PostSo I have finally got Motul 7100 20w50 for my NS. Most of the dealers in my area had either old stock from 2012, or they didn't have it at all. One of them even suggested Motul 5100 instead. Saying it's the same thing, just that it costs lesser. I backed away from that shop slowly. Anyway, it was like mining for gold, and now I know why.
After getting rid of the sludge called Bajaj Genuine Engine Oil 20W50, and replacing it with Motul, I didn't really feel any difference initially. Felt sluggish, and made noise. Same as before.
After 10 minutes of running the engine, the bike transformed and how. The gear shifts were smooth as butter. The acceleration was crisp and never did I feel like I was going to redline. It felt at ease even at around 9000 rpm. On a few occasions while upshifting, I even felt like I'd pop my front wheel if I throttled any more.
The engine noise has gone down considerably. The vibrations are a lot less. The strain on the engine seems to have gone.
And this is only after a 8 km ride.
peace of advice... after pouring in new oil... remove spark plug cap and press self started for 3 seconds and do 5 such reps... (cap removed so that bike dosent start!, if you had a kick started I would suggest turning ignition off and kicking it a few times) then refit the spark plug cap start the bike.. and let it idle for 5 minutes... this is so that the new oil heats up and coats all inner surfaces preventing damage.... also every morning start the bike and let it idle for 2 mins before a ride... helps prevent engine wear and tear that is highest during a cold start..... this practice and regular maintenance saw my pulsar classic hit a lakh km without a cylinder job!
10w30 is the grade you want... try shell ax7, veedol super swift, motul 7100 or 300v etc...Originally posted by Joseph Barun Nayak View PostIts Cbz xtreme 3rd model 2011 make !!!!
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Divyansh....
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Re: Engine Oils
How about castrol power 1 ???? But I dnt hv much abt dis oil and its grades ????Originally posted by Divyanshp150 View PostAhh after 8 kms because oils also require a runn in and initially takes longer to heat up to its optimal temp.... also a lot of additives are present that get activated on first heat up and all sorts of chemical reactions happen
peace of advice... after pouring in new oil... remove spark plug cap and press self started for 3 seconds and do 5 such reps... (cap removed so that bike dosent start!, if you had a kick started I would suggest turning ignition off and kicking it a few times) then refit the spark plug cap start the bike.. and let it idle for 5 minutes... this is so that the new oil heats up and coats all inner surfaces preventing damage.... also every morning start the bike and let it idle for 2 mins before a ride... helps prevent engine wear and tear that is highest during a cold start..... this practice and regular maintenance saw my pulsar classic hit a lakh km without a cylinder job!
10w30 is the grade you want... try shell ax7, veedol super swift, motul 7100 or 300v etc...
Divyansh....
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Re: Engine Oils
Hey bro,Originally posted by Joseph Barun Nayak View PostHow about castrol power 1 ???? But I dnt hv much abt dis oil and its grades ????
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I am also owner of Hero Xtreme 2013 model. I recommend you to get VEEDOL take off 4t, 10w30 grade. This oil is best for our bike. You feel little harsh for 1st 300-400 kms(run in period of oil) but as you go on 400+ kms, bike will feel smoother & revvup friendly. Drain period up to 2500 kms.
Don`t go for SHELL ADVANCE AX7 as its grade wont suits our bike i.e. 10w40. You will loss the punchy revvup nature of xtreme. I personally experienced it. I drained it & poured VEEDOL again & will be sticking to that oil henceforth. I am again saying you don`t go for any grades apart from 10w30 as all other grades are not suitable for our bike.
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