Engine Oils

[curve_king]

Re: Engine Oils

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If your average driving speed is in the excess of 70 KMPH, then you should go in for oils made from ester base stocks for added piston protection.

Oh no I certainly don't travel at an average speed of >70 as my riding is 95% inside the city, where even touching 65 gives me that rush. This trip was just out of the blue.
Even though this oil was 10W40 I tried it as it was full synth. But I still would advise lowering to maximum of 15wXX for this engine whose recommended grade is 20w50 in the 'service' manual.(But this engine was broken in on 20w40 oil 'only' so another factor there)
As for the engine sounding harsh after 90kph we still have to factor in that the engine is not at all used to such high speeds & also we are going above the highway cruising speed for this originally detuned engine.
Also I was wary of using ester base oils as they tend to give head gasket leaks.
P.S:
just had to try this oil after seeing it come in the top 3 overall with 300v & amsoil in the tests in the popular article [Oils well...] in this thread.

[Honda_abhi]

Re: Engine Oils

Well i initially wanted to try that only 2 problems i had to face

1.non availability
people widely use motul 30004t yes every shop has stock of that but when u ask for other semi synth like gold 3100 4t they say there is no oil

2. pricing is quite high more over i use my bike sparingly maximum 100km in a week not more so i think that would not be oil for me but ill surely try in future only after trying Gulf pride 4t

Yup. there is very good feedback on gulf oils. Unfortunately, these oils have very limited availability in Pune.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Oh no I certainly don't travel at an average speed of >70 as my riding is 95% inside the city, where even touching 65 gives me that rush. This trip was just out of the blue.
Even though this oil was 10W40 I tried it as it was full synth. But I still would advise lowering to maximum of 15wXX for this engine whose recommended grade is 20w50 in the 'service' manual.(But this engine was broken in on 20w40 oil 'only' so another factor there)
As for the engine sounding harsh after 90kph we still have to factor in that the engine is not at all used to such high speeds & also we are going above the highway cruising speed for this originally detuned engine.
Also I was wary of using ester base oils as they tend to give head gasket leaks.
P.S:
just had to try this oil after seeing it come overall at 2nd place with 300v in the tests in the popular article [Oils well...] in this thread.

If your engine is broken in on a 20W40 oil, then the engine clearances are attuned to a 20WXX oil. In such a case , A thinner oil like 10WXX oil will provide lesser protection. Also the 10WXX oil will become more thin at higher temperatures and can pass thru the piston rings into the combustion chamber causing blue/white smoke. This happens bcoz the piston rings are attuned to a 20WXX oil. As the engine ages the clearances become wider forcing you to go for more thicker oils than 20W40.

PS: shifting from thinner to thicker oils is easier

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Oh no I certainly don't travel at an average speed of >70 as my riding is 95% inside the city, where even touching 65 gives me that rush. This trip was just out of the blue.
Even though this oil was 10W40 I tried it as it was full synth. But I still would advise lowering to maximum of 15wXX for this engine whose recommended grade is 20w50 in the 'service' manual.(But this engine was broken in on 20w40 oil 'only' so another factor there)
As for the engine sounding harsh after 90kph we still have to factor in that the engine is not at all used to such high speeds & also we are going above the highway cruising speed for this originally detuned engine.
Also I was wary of using ester base oils as they tend to give head gasket leaks.
P.S:
just had to try this oil after seeing it come overall at 2nd place with 300v in the tests in the popular article [Oils well...] in this thread.

If your engine is broken in on a 20W40 oil, then the engine clearances are attuned to a 20WXX oil. In such a case , A thinner oil like 10WXX oil will provide lesser protection. Also the 10WXX oil will become more thin at higher temperatures and can pass thru the piston rings into the combustion chamber causing blue/white smoke. This happens bcoz the piston rings are attuned to a 20WXX oil. As the engine ages the clearances become wider forcing you to go for more thicker oils than 20W40.

PS: shifting from thinner to thicker oils is easier

[bavlo]

Re: Engine Oils

Changed engine oil in my impulse. Here in mira road, Mumbai no one keeps motul 10w30 grade. Even gulf is difficult to find in 10w30 grade. Only honda and veedol available. Local mechanics will suggest to put any oil without giving any thought to the recommended grade. They only want to sell whatever they have on shelf. My bike had already done 2000 kms on hero oil so could not wait more. Went ahead with veedol thinking that honda and veedol are same as manufactured by tide water oil company and the cost is also exactly same. I poured 1L oil. After 300 kms run, in my observation engine is heating up more then before and gear shifts are not smooth any more. I used honda oil before and never faced such engine heating and rough gear shifts. Is it because I put 1L and not 1.2L? I always used to put more then 1L every time. I think I'll change oil again after few hundred kms and will make sure I buy motul in advance either online or from outside mira road.

Sent from my MI 3W using xBhp Connect mobile app

[suj]

Re: Engine Oils

Changed engine oil in my impulse. Here in mira road, Mumbai no one keeps motul 10w30 grade. Even gulf is difficult to find in 10w30 grade. Only honda and veedol available. Local mechanics will suggest to put any oil without giving any thought to the recommended grade. They only want to sell whatever they have on shelf. My bike had already done 2000 kms on hero oil so could not wait more. Went ahead with veedol thinking that honda and veedol are same as manufactured by tide water oil company and the cost is also exactly same. I poured 1L oil. After 300 kms run, in my observation engine is heating up more then before and gear shifts are not smooth any more. I used honda oil before and never faced such engine heating and rough gear shifts. Is it because I put 1L and not 1.2L? I always used to put more then 1L every time. I think I'll change oil again after few hundred kms and will make sure I buy motul in advance either online or from outside mira road.

Sent from my MI 3W using xBhp Connect mobile app

U can try Suzuki by motul 10w40 available in Suzuki ASC..

[muztariq]

Re: Engine Oils

Changed engine oil in my impulse. Here in mira road, Mumbai no one keeps motul 10w30 grade. Even gulf is difficult to find in 10w30 grade. Only honda and veedol available. Local mechanics will suggest to put any oil without giving any thought to the recommended grade. They only want to sell whatever they have on shelf. My bike had already done 2000 kms on hero oil so could not wait more. Went ahead with veedol thinking that honda and veedol are same as manufactured by tide water oil company and the cost is also exactly same. I poured 1L oil. After 300 kms run, in my observation engine is heating up more then before and gear shifts are not smooth any more. I used honda oil before and never faced such engine heating and rough gear shifts. Is it because I put 1L and not 1.2L? I always used to put more then 1L every time. I think I'll change oil again after few hundred kms and will make sure I buy motul in advance either online or from outside mira road.

Sent from my MI 3W using xBhp Connect mobile app

The new oil takes sometime to settle in. If you keep encountering roughness even after hundred kms, you may have got spurious oil. Veedol is a good smooth oil as per people who used it.
Keep an extra bottle at home of your favorite oil. Top up to max. Mark on dipstick. It is not important how much oil you pour, it is important that you are between max and min level on dipstick all the time.

[asn39]

Re: Engine Oils

Writing it after a drive of 50 kms

Motul 3000 4t 20w40 feels very good as i have stayed within 4k to 5k rpm band

Now the engine feels peppy and very smooth at lower rpms

Over all feels very good

I dont think ill try any other grade after 20w40

[anarchy911]

Re: Engine Oils

Any mineral oil with rating 15W50?

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[Divya Sharan]

Re: Engine Oils

Any mineral oil with rating 15W50?

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3 come to mind right now.
1. Motul 5100
2. Castrol Active 4T.
3. Motul 300V.

I guess Castrol and 300V are mineral.


Sent from my phone. Kindly avoid it while riding.

[anarchy911]

Re: Engine Oils

3 come to mind right now.
1. Motul 5100
2. Castrol Active 4T.
3. Motul 300V.

I guess Castrol and 300V are mineral.


Sent from my phone. Kindly avoid it while riding.

Motul 5100 is SS, 300v is FS. No idea about castrol.

Was wondering if mineral oils came in that grade.

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[vivek7593]

Re: Engine Oils

Any mineral oil with rating 15W50?

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Motul 3000 4t plus 15w50 minreal oil best i have came across..


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[Divya Sharan]

Re: Engine Oils

Motul 3000 4t plus 15w50 minreal oil best i have came across..


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Never knew itbcame in 15w50 grade too.




Sent from my phone. Kindly avoid it while riding.

[vivek7593]

Re: Engine Oils

Never knew itbcame in 15w50 grade too.

[ATTACH]182164[/ATTACH]


Sent from my phone. Kindly avoid it while riding.

It does come sir but was very hard for me to source another one costed me about 260/lit ...

3000 series has 3 grades ...3100 and 5100 are ss ... 7100 fs comes in 2 grades ..
The one in photo is also good and easily available.. i have put in splendour and its holding up good ..

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[suj]

Re: Engine Oils

Guys, has Castrol stopped manufacturing Castrol activ scooter 20w40 grade?? In every shops only 10w30 are available.

[blue_maniac]

Re: Engine Oils

has anyone tried the cheaper/barrel oil (20w40 or 15w40 - not sure), which is sold in shops to auto fellows, for your bike as engine oil? Is it soo bad that we shouldnt use? Even though it does not last for 3000-5000kms, isnt it good enough for 1000kms? you get to change the oil frequently, and that is better too.. I dont think it gets burnt up or anything.. It costs 1/4th that of castrol.. 80rs to 300rs.. so we can change the oil 4 times instead The mechanic was saying that it is just a mental block, the yellow colored (not the red one) is pretty good & as thick/viscous as branded oils, but just packed in barrels instead of retail bottles..

has anyone tried?

[devils_friend]

Re: Engine Oils

has anyone tried the cheaper/barrel oil (20w40 or 15w40 - not sure), which is sold in shops to auto fellows, for your bike as engine oil? Is it soo bad that we shouldnt use? Even though it does not last for 3000-5000kms, isnt it good enough for 1000kms? you get to change the oil frequently, and that is better too.. I dont think it gets burnt up or anything.. It costs 1/4th that of castrol.. 80rs to 300rs.. so we can change the oil 4 times instead The mechanic was saying that it is just a mental block, the yellow colored (not the red one) is pretty good & as thick/viscous as branded oils, but just packed in barrels instead of retail bottles..

has anyone tried?

Those oil's can be spurious, made at local shop or at some place where they make duplicate oil's. Why take risk for few bucks? It isn't about the mental block bro, the mechanic doesn't care to suggest right oil many times and might suggest those oil's on which he/they get good margin. You cannot judge an oil by just looking at it.