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Re: Engine Oils
Doesn't P220 have a strainer along with the drain bolt? How will rubber particles enter the engine?Originally posted by Parvez Ghadialy View PostGot a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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Re: Engine Oils
Hi.Originally posted by Divya Sharan View PostDoesn't P220 have a strainer along with the drain bolt? How will rubber particles enter the engine?
The Oil strainer with its centrifugal filter and oil pump are located on the right hand side. The oil drain bolt is on the left hand side. Also there is no strainer near oil drain bolt. If there were a strainer, rubber particles would not get inside but neither would inside junk come outside when oil was drained as the filter would not have allowed the carbon particles and what not to flow out along with the oil.
.
Some RnD put some proper light. Oil is in the oil pan at the bottom of the gear box due to gravity. The oil is sucked by oil pump. At the inlet of the oil pump is the oil strainer that blocks major big size particles. These particles eventually fall of as they cling to the bottom-side facing side of the filter due to gravity and vibration and oil flow pressure.
The oil pump pumps the oil into the centrifuge which further refines the oil and forces it to the various engine and gear box parts to which oil provides lubrication and removes bi-products and waste particles before it again falls back into the oil sump due to gravity.
So despite there is no strainer along the drain bolt, the rubber particles would be eventually be filtered by the strainer beneath the oil pump. So, I dont have to worry about the rubber particles.
. So now I dont mind installing a rubber washer inside the drain bolt. Feeling on cloud 9 already. Finally the beast can stop marking its territory. As it is, it has marked a lot of it. That should be sufficient.
Thanks for cross questioning and motivating me to do some research and I loved it. This was a well used spare time at my office.
. Still any positive criticism from fellow XBHPians is most welcome.
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Re: Engine Oils
^^^ I learn something new everyday. Thanks for the opportunity.
Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!
Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0
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Re: Engine Oils
HaiOriginally posted by Parvez Ghadialy View PostHi.
The Oil strainer with its centrifugal filter and oil pump are located on the right hand side. The oil drain bolt is on the left hand side. Also there is no strainer near oil drain bolt. If there were a strainer, rubber particles would not get inside but neither would inside junk come outside when oil was drained as the filter would not have allowed the carbon particles and what not to flow out along with the oil.
.
Some RnD put some proper light. Oil is in the oil pan at the bottom of the gear box due to gravity. The oil is sucked by oil pump. At the inlet of the oil pump is the oil strainer that blocks major big size particles. These particles eventually fall of as they cling to the bottom-side facing side of the filter due to gravity and vibration and oil flow pressure.
The oil pump pumps the oil into the centrifuge which further refines the oil and forces it to the various engine and gear box parts to which oil provides lubrication and removes bi-products and waste particles before it again falls back into the oil sump due to gravity.
So despite there is no strainer along the drain bolt, the rubber particles would be eventually be filtered by the strainer beneath the oil pump. So, I dont have to worry about the rubber particles.
. So now I dont mind installing a rubber washer inside the drain bolt. Feeling on cloud 9 already. Finally the beast can stop marking its territory. As it is, it has marked a lot of it. That should be sufficient.
Thanks for cross questioning and motivating me to do some research and I loved it. This was a well used spare time at my office.
. Still any positive criticism from fellow XBHPians is most welcome.
I do not recommend rubber washer. Instead the best option will be a aluminium/copper washer. The reason is you will have to provide a minimum of 22 Nm of torque to the drain bolt to properly seal the opening. Using a rubber washer will tear the washer due to the torque applied thereby providing small gaps for the oil to leak. Use Al/Cu washer will seal the gap properly and can be used number of times.
Cheers
Mathews
Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.
Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "
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Re: Engine Oils
What you said is bang on...Originally posted by accuengineer View PostHai
I do not recommend rubber washer. Instead the best option will be a aluminium/copper washer. The reason is you will have to provide a minimum of 22 Nm of torque to the drain bolt to properly seal the opening. Using a rubber washer will tear the washer due to the torque applied thereby providing small gaps for the oil to leak. Use Al/Cu washer will seal the gap properly and can be used number of times.
Cheers
Mathews
. Makes sense. I think I will go for Aluminium as its a little soft and less brittle than copper. Thanks mate.
Regards.
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Re: Engine Oils
Originally posted by accuengineer View PostI do not recommend rubber washer. Instead the best option will be a aluminium/copper washer. The reason is you will have to provide a minimum of 22 Nm of torque to the drain bolt to properly seal the opening. Using a rubber washer will tear the washer due to the torque applied thereby providing small gaps for the oil to leak. Use Al/Cu washer will seal the gap properly and can be used number of times.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Join https://www.hattrick.org/ to manage a virtual football club from India. Nearly 300,000 managers from 128 countries fighting to make their mark.
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Re: Engine Oils
10w40 is bit lighter than 20w40. It won't make the bike sluggish.So I believe oil change is not the reason. Check the mileage again properly.Originally posted by harshadhulipala5 View PostHi guys
I recently changed my engine oil to MOTUL 710010w40
I observed that there is drop in mileage and pickup
I also gave bike for 3 service and at that time I've changed oil
Please suggest me what to done..
. Did you fill oil up to level indicated?
.The svc must have messed up something during 3rd service.
.Check with a local mechanic or svc.Last edited by Durai; 01-15-2016, 07:39 AM.
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Re: Engine Oils
Why can we use "Gasket maker " or "Rtv sealent" here.
Just a small amount on the neck or thread of drain bolt is suffecient.
The won't harden ,melt ,won't go inside the engine ...
[emoji4] [emoji4] [emoji4] [emoji4] [emoji4] [emoji4]
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Re: Engine Oils
Friends.. planning to switch to fully synthetic in my 110cc Honda dream. Confused between Honda Throttle 10w30 or Shell Ultra Fully synthetic 10w40?.
Which one is preferred for splendor-like bikes. I am sure 20w40 will reduce acceleration, so not going for them.--------------------------------------------------------------
Bikes owned: HeroHonda splendor 1998, Honda Dream Neo 2013
Honda is HONDA da
DIY:
Carburetor cleaning Dream Neo
Fuel line cleaning Dream Neo
Valve clearance Dream Neo
Oil strainer cleaning Dream neo
Air filter replacement of Dream neo
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Re: Engine Oils
Try Gulf Pride 4T SYNTH 10w30 , am riding it right now and it's very good .Originally posted by dude_creative View PostFriends.. planning to switch to fully synthetic in my 110cc Honda dream. Confused between Honda Throttle 10w30 or Shell Ultra Fully synthetic 10w40?.Which one is preferred for splendor-like bikes. I am sure 20w40 will reduce acceleration, so not going for them.
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Re: Engine Oils
Thanks.. didn't notice the gulf , seems cheap and bestOriginally posted by Pinaki View PostTry Gulf Pride 4T SYNTH 10w30 , am riding it right now and it's very good .--------------------------------------------------------------
Bikes owned: HeroHonda splendor 1998, Honda Dream Neo 2013
Honda is HONDA da
DIY:
Carburetor cleaning Dream Neo
Fuel line cleaning Dream Neo
Valve clearance Dream Neo
Oil strainer cleaning Dream neo
Air filter replacement of Dream neo
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Re: Engine Oils
Have anyone here used eni engine oil?Last edited by NitSpeed200; 01-23-2016, 08:28 AM.
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Re: Engine Oils
Hello All,
I have a Hero Passion Pro (Nov 2014 Purchased) that has done 3100 KMS, 4 services completed.
Now I am thinking to switch from stock hero engine oil to some other oil because hero oil is not that good and bike becomes harsh soon. I am thinking to go for 10w40 semi synthetic. Please tell whether it would be good for the engine or not. Though recommended is 10w30 but engine becomes harsh just after 500-600 KMS in summers. Please suggest a good engine oil for the bike.
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