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Engine Oils
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Re: Engine Oils
Hi. It's a 07' Uni. It obviously has the centrifugal filter. Thing is, having moved to Hyd last year, am yet to find an honourable mechanic here. Have been doing the small stuff myself with limited tools. Do hope to change the clutch plates and clean this filter as soon as I find a good mech. Problem has been that most are good at ripping off people here and most owners give their vehicles to brand showroom for servicing who anyway outsource the job to local mechs.Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
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Re: Engine Oils
Understand your predicament , yes it's difficult to find competent & honest mechanics nowadays . But Hyderabad is a big city , am sure there are some there . Ask on our xbhp forums here for guidance in finding suitable one . Otherwise the Unicorn's engine is very similar to Honda CBF125 , for which there are great video guides on the tube which you can check . It's not difficult to DIY .Originally posted by Vipergts07 View Post..It's a 07' Uni. ..Thing is, having moved to Hyd last year, am yet to find an honourable mechanic here. Have been doing the small stuff myself with limited tools. Do hope to change the clutch plates and clean this filter as soon as I find a good mech. ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1lYyQAtJng
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2Ooe74oiOM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNSWsk8oYVgLast edited by Pinaki; 09-25-2018, 04:50 AM.
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Re: Engine Oils
Appreciate the info. Have seen them before. Fairly simple. Thing is, would like to do the clutch plates at the same time. But there is a specific tool that is required to remove the plates assembly which honestly I have not seen with any mechs yet. Have had my eyes on the REH for the past 2 yrs, may probably go with it soon.Originally posted by Pinaki View PostUnderstand your predicament , yes it's difficult to find competent & honest mechanics nowadays . But Hyderabad is a big city , am sure there are some there . Ask on our xbhp forums here for guidance in finding suitable one . Otherwise the Unicorn's engine is very similar to Honda CBF125 , for which there are great video guides on the tube which you can check . It's not difficult to DIY .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1lYyQAtJng
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2Ooe74oiOM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNSWsk8oYVg
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Re: Engine Oils
Yes , those spl tools areOriginally posted by Vipergts07 View PostAppreciate the info. Have seen them before. Fairly simple. Thing is, would like to do the clutch plates at the same time. But there is a specific tool that is required to remove the plates assembly which honestly I have not seen with any mechs yet. Have had my eyes on the REH for the past 2 yrs, may probably go with it soon.
the clutch-center nut socket ( and an handle to drive it )
and a clutch holder tool like this.
Both were readily available at the bike parts market here and total of less than 200 Rs when I bought them . It would be almost same for your bike I think . Other than that I needed a 8mm socket ( for removing the 8mm nuts that hold the clutch-side engine cover , you need a socket as spanner cannot do it ) & a quarter-inch-drive L handle to drive it and screwdriver , these I already had . Also need some simple spanners & pliers to remove the kick-pedal . clutch cables etc . Thats it .
For the parts , you'll need a set of the clutch friction plates , two paper gaskets ( one for the case cover another for the rotor filter cover ) and a bottle of oil .Last edited by Pinaki; 09-25-2018, 07:58 PM.
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Re: Engine Oils
This guy is using car engine oil in his motorcycle, is it safe to use it, will the clutch not slip?
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Re: Engine Oils
car oil will burn the clutch plates soon due to excessive slip & heat formation . I have 1st hand experience with this oil . I changed my burnt clutch plates on p220 due to thisOriginally posted by #bpk View PostThis guy is using car engine oil in his motorcycle, is it safe to use it, will the clutch not slip?
https://youtu.be/KJOdpc8SCr0
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Re: Engine Oils
Odo read at the time of change?Originally posted by vvk1999 View Postcar oil will burn the clutch plates soon due to excessive slip & heat formation . I have 1st hand experience with this oil . I changed my burnt clutch plates on p220 due to thisMotorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Re: Engine Oils
U can go for mobil1 10w40 racing 4T full synthetic. It performs better than motul 7100 fs in my R15S. Easily run for 5000 kms without any decrease in level of oil.Originally posted by aniket_lp700 View PostHello guys
I own yamaha r15 v3 and will do first service next week.
I have heard many negative reviews of yamalube oil.
Please suggest me best oil as I dont have knowledge regarding which oil to use
Should I go for Motul


Last edited by vjxm; 11-15-2018, 08:10 AM.not a hard racer, but love to drive.
fully DIY type Guy
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Re: Engine Oils
Hello guys, first service of my Honda Hornet 160R is due in next 250km.
I wanted to know, when to shift to semi-synthetic/FS oil?
What oil brand would be best for my bike?
Recommended grade is 10w30, but temperature in my place varies from 6°C - 45°C, what grade of oil should I use when I shift from mineral oil to SS/FS oil.
At what interval should mineral oil, SS, FS oil be changed.
Thank you.
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Re: Engine Oils
Run on mineral oil for ideally 5k atleast. Some would say lesser or more. No options in 10w30 FS right now. Honda/TVS have their own FS oil in that grade. Try them after 7-8k ideally. If 10w30 is recommended, it's perfectly OK to go to 10w40. Earlier Hondas used to run on 20w40, so I have used 20w50 FS too without problems. Wouldn't recommend for new gen engines. Bikes have their own characteristics with regards to brand. Experiment different brands but stick to the grade after 7-8k. For some Honda oil works best, for some motul and for some shell and for same others. Ideally change mineral oil between 2k to 2.5k kms. FS can be stretched a bit more to 3 to 4k. It depends on multiple factors, air quality, fuel quality, riding style, road condition, traffic, etc. When you feel gearbox is not clicking easily or it's slipping or engine feels rough it's time to change. But the 2k to 2.5k is a general indication and its better to change whether you feel any roughness or not.Originally posted by aishwary23 View PostHello guys, first service of my Honda Hornet 160R is due in next 250km.
I wanted to know, when to shift to semi-synthetic/FS oil?
What oil brand would be best for my bike?
Recommended grade is 10w30, but temperature in my place varies from 6°C - 45°C, what grade of oil should I use when I shift from mineral oil to SS/FS oil.
At what interval should mineral oil, SS, FS oil be changed.
Thank you.
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Re: Engine Oils
stay with mineral oil for 1st 8000-10000kmOriginally posted by aishwary23 View PostHello guys, first service of my Honda Hornet 160R is due in next 250km.
I wanted to know, when to shift to semi-synthetic/FS oil?
What oil brand would be best for my bike?
Recommended grade is 10w30, but temperature in my place varies from 6°C - 45°C, what grade of oil should I use when I shift from mineral oil to SS/FS oil.
At what interval should mineral oil, SS, FS oil be changed.
Thank you.
afterwords your bike will feel much smooth. since most seating occures during this km s
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