Engine Oils

[Aneesh@4GHz]

@ satyajitrc

As Honda_CBF said,stick to XXW40 max.
For mineral oil you can try:

Gulf Pride 4T Plus 20W40
Motul 3000 4T Plus 20W40

Tried and tested in ZMA,Both are very good oils and cost's less than 300rs.

For SS and FS,You can try:

Some ZMR users had complained about oil leaks when using FS oils in their ZMR.

shell advance ultra 10w40 is a good oil,One ZMR user had used this oil had he had 0 problems.

Then Honda FS 10W30 oil will lasts 2000kms after that gears will be rough.Also topup may needed.

[flyingJian]

Guys, how is servo mineral engine oil?
I have been using it in my Apache 180 and the feel of the bike is quite good.
I am using the same grade 20w40 as recommended for the bike.

Could somebody share there thoughts/takes about this engine oil?

[Pinaki]

Friends,...
Planning to change to 10W30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil from HONDA for Rs 504/- per litre.
Will that be a good idea??....
Now completed 19000 kms till today.....
Meanwhile will be heading for SVC next week for Chain & Sprocket change along with Clutch Plate change.

I would not say it is bad idea , but do try out a bottle of 20w40 mineral before you go for costlier oils. Works well in kolkata climate. In winter 10w30 mineral works good but fails me in the summer heat . HeroHonda 4T oil(10w30) made by tide water oil co. is cheap(170 Rs) and now become available in kolkata , am trying it out until end of this winter .. pleased with it . I may even end up routinely switching between these two grades of oil for the two main seasons here , since I favour 1500-2000 kms oil changes now and cheap oils, it's no problem to switch . Bike happy with fresh oil all the time too .
Is it the usual mileage for clutch-plates, chain & sprocket on zmr ?

Guys, how is servo mineral engine oil?
I have been using it in my Apache 180 and the feel of the bike is quite good.
I am using the same grade 20w40 as recommended for the bike.
Could somebody share there thoughts/takes about this engine oil?

Servo oils made by IOCL are very good in this grade , I've used it few years back on my yamaha and max-100. Infact , mineral oils in 20w40 grade being the largest-volume sold, oldest made grade and lowest range oil(least viscosity additives) in India are all very very good . You'll be constrained to find a really bad 20w40 mineral oil . Differences between various manufacturers is minor and probably in our heads . Moreover since the oil is available at IOCL owned pumps , no chance of fakes too . I'm using motul 3000 plus 20w40 , which is a little better(I felt) and very easily available at a trusty shop next to my workplace . You can try out a bottle of it too and give us a comparative view. btw , which servo oil are you using , the new gobain brand ?

[madhav krishna]

are you sure???
because i have used both AX7(SS) and ultra(FS) and the difference is huge in terms of performance...

yup am sure about this. The AX7 is made from group 3 base stocks and hence mineral. The AX7 which is claimed as a SS oil is nothing but a highly refined mineral oil & the ultra is a semi synthetic. Hate to say this but shell is making fool out of people just like castrol.

[amitmalve]

yup am sure about this. The AX7 is made from group 3 base stocks and hence mineral. The AX7 which is claimed as a SS oil is nothing but a highly refined mineral oil & the ultra is a semi synthetic. Hate to say this but shell is making fool out of people just like castrol.

@Pinaki sir - how true is this, any idea?

[kaynmantis]

yup am sure about this. The AX7 is made from group 3 base stocks and hence mineral. The AX7 which is claimed as a SS oil is nothing but a highly refined mineral oil & the ultra is a semi synthetic. Hate to say this but shell is making fool out of people just like castrol.

@Pinaki sir - how true is this, any idea?

Yes and no. Group III base stock oil can be legally sold as FS in some countries. So when it's legal, it cannot be legally defined as cheating. It's upto consumers to educate themselves. This link might help Synthetic oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Pinaki]

Companies in all business pass off various stuff under various names,taking advantage of the loose laws of commerce . If you read the fine print , you'll see that all the herbal shampoo available in the market contain 99% detergent(i.e sulfonates) , and most of the hair oils (including the herbal ones) are 40-95% mineral(i.e petroleum) , same as our engine oils .
To me, anything that's 100% synthesized in a controlled environment (i.e a Lab) is synthetic , and that occurs in nature and is mined is mineral . Reformed mineral oils that is passed off as synthetic thru the loopholes of law .. retains all or some of the defects of mineral oils from which they are made , and not all of their properties can be tailored to our requirements , as can be done in synthetic ester etc based oils .
While choosing oils you have to see what fits your budget and usage , then listen to what your engine likes .
I have not used synthetic oils upto now , since i) I could not justify the initial cost ii) have pretty good cheap oils here in minerals iii) am kind on the engine iii) have paranoid urges to drain and fill fresh oil in every 1500+kms or 3-4 months, whichever comes earlier ... so no long term savings either .
Of course, if you tend to put unusual stress on your engine under really bad conditions like high summer heat or freezing cold, for unusually long durations , do fill with the the very best pure ester based synthetic oils ... without looking for bargains . IMHO .

Yes and no. Group III base stock oil can be legally sold as FS in some countries. So when it's legal, it cannot be legally defined as cheating. It's upto consumers to educate themselves. This link might help Synthetic oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Yes , it is completely legal & caveat emptor as usual ; but the law doesn't make it work any better inside the engine . It only reduces friction (from being so named ) in the opening of your wallet . They are also aware that there are many people in here looking for some lubrication in that area .

[luvurbike]

Motul is good for any bike.It all depends on how you've maintained ur bike.You only have one oil available in 10w50 grade and that is Elf Moto4 Xt tech 10w50 FS oil.See if u can get it nearby ur location.It's very difficult to procure this one in mumbai.Or go for Shell Advance ultra 10w40.I wouldn't recommend Castrol cuz lot of duplicates running in the market.Very difficult to make out between original and duplicate.So its better to stay away from Castrol

bro motul will be fine if you opt for 10w40 grade but yes if you go for 15w50 grade you will regret.
IMO get shell advance ultra 10w40, it is the best oil i have used so far. engine smoothness, gear shift all are superb.
here the price is:
motul 300v 10w40 is 980rs/l
shell advance ultra 10w40 is 700rs/l
i dont feel motul worth those extra 280 bucks. but still its my opinion.

Thanks for your input guys

I've changed oil to motul FS 300v 10w40 two days back... It was hard to find the dealer here (took days, internet searching, mobile calls and what not)... The oil was yellow with a greenish glow... Smell was pleasant (probably due to easters, well but that doesn't matter)...

After 1500+km HH oil, switching to Motul FS is pleasant experience... Vibes reduced to zero (almost), gear shifts are smooth, finding neutral in just one go (used to happen with HH oil too but only for first ~800 kms). Bike feels free revving and maybe throttle response improved a bit (maybe psychological)... However engine sound has increased a bit (just a lil bit), sounds more aggressive but I liked it before (riding in a car like feel with helmet on...)

[Pinaki]

Thanks for your input guys

I've changed oil to motul FS 300v 10w40 two days back... It was hard to find the dealer here (took days, internet searching, mobile calls and what not)... The oil was yellow with a greenish glow... Smell was pleasant (probably due to easters, well but that doesn't matter)...

After 1500+km HH oil, switching to Motul FS is pleasant experience... Vibes reduced to zero (almost), gear shifts are smooth, finding neutral in just one go (used to happen with HH oil too but only for first ~800 kms). Bike feels free revving and maybe throttle response improved a bit (maybe psychological)... However engine sound has increased a bit (just a lil bit), sounds more aggressive but I liked it before (riding in a car like feel with helmet on...)

Good choice . A good synthetic oil like this is said to freeze the wear and tear cycle of the engine right there because of greatly reduced friction . Keep an eye on the oil levels as you ride .

[luvurbike]

Good choice . A good synthetic oil like this is said to freeze the wear and tear cycle of the engine right there because of greatly reduced friction . Keep an eye on the oil levels as you ride .

Sure bro... Thanks for reminding me... I was so lost in my ride that this thing went off my mind completely

[Mahindra]

Thanks for your input guys

I've changed oil to motul FS 300v 10w40 two days back... It was hard to find the dealer here (took days, internet searching, mobile calls and what not)... The oil was yellow with a greenish glow... Smell was pleasant (probably due to easters, well but that doesn't matter)...

After 1500+km HH oil, switching to Motul FS is pleasant experience... Vibes reduced to zero (almost), gear shifts are smooth, finding neutral in just one go (used to happen with HH oil too but only for first ~800 kms). Bike feels free revving and maybe throttle response improved a bit (maybe psychological)... However engine sound has increased a bit (just a lil bit), sounds more aggressive but I liked it before (riding in a car like feel with helmet on...)

I too own a zmr.. Is handlebar vibes reduced.. Am hate the bike mostly at around 3000rpm...

[bobysaxena]

Good choice . A good synthetic oil like this is said to freeze the wear and tear cycle of the engine right there because of greatly reduced friction . Keep an eye on the oil levels as you ride .

Hey Bro, this is Boby Saxena . Since I am an Computer doctorate.....? I could not send message through the talkies section, therefore I forward my request to you through this reply thread.
I had changed my engine oil to 10W30 Gulf Pride this winter. However I will revert back to 20w40 grade on the onset of summer. My odo reading still date is 5700 km. The engine is now running very smooth. My question is that my trusted old Enfield mechanic have suggested me to occasionally add a pouch of 2t oil with fuel in my splendor NXG which will protect the valve seats. Is it advisable ? My present fuel service is 57.8 kmpl in city driving. Awaiting eagerly for your reply.

[madhav krishna]

Yes and no. Group III base stock oil can be legally sold as FS in some countries. So when it's legal, it cannot be legally defined as cheating. It's upto consumers to educate themselves. This link might help Synthetic oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Well still the shell ultra would be considered as a semi synthetic itself as its a blend. Though selling the group 3 oil as synthetic is surely legal it isnt any better than any other minerals and neither has the properties of a true synthetic. In the article posted by you it is clearly said that a group 3 oil would be considered as highest-top-level mineral-base stocks only.

Companies in all business pass off various stuff under various names,taking advantage of the loose laws of commerce . If you read the fine print , you'll see that all the herbal shampoo available in the market contain 99% detergent(i.e sulfonates) , and most of the hair oils (including the herbal ones) are 40-95% mineral(i.e petroleum) , same as our engine oils .
To me, anything that's 100% synthesized in a controlled environment (i.e a Lab) is synthetic , and that occurs in nature and is mined is mineral . Reformed mineral oils that is passed off as synthetic thru the loopholes of law .. retains all or some of the defects of mineral oils from which they are made , and not all of their properties can be tailored to our requirements , as can be done in synthetic ester etc based oils .
While choosing oils you have to see what fits your budget and usage , then listen to what your engine likes .
I have not used synthetic oils upto now , since i) I could not justify the initial cost ii) have pretty good cheap oils here in minerals iii) am kind on the engine iii) have paranoid urges to drain and fill fresh oil in every 1500+kms or 3-4 months, whichever comes earlier ... so no long term savings either .
Of course, if you tend to put unusual stress on your engine under really bad conditions like high summer heat or freezing cold, for unusually long durations , do fill with the the very best pure ester based synthetic oils ... without looking for bargains . IMHO . Yes , it is completely legal & caveat emptor as usual ; but the law doesn't make it work any better inside the engine . It only reduces friction (from being so named ) in the opening of your wallet . They are also aware that there are many people in here looking for some lubrication in that area .

Agreed

[Pinaki]

Hey Bro, this is Boby Saxena . Since I am an Computer doctorate.....? I could not send message through the talkies section, therefore I forward my request to you through this reply thread.
I had changed my engine oil to 10W30 Gulf Pride this winter. However I will revert back to 20w40 grade on the onset of summer. My odo reading still date is 5700 km. The engine is now running very smooth. My question is that my trusted old Enfield mechanic have suggested me to occasionally add a pouch of 2t oil with fuel in my splendor NXG which will protect the valve seats. Is it advisable ? My present fuel service is 57.8 kmpl in city driving. Awaiting eagerly for your reply.

Awwwww !! so you borrowed the same dual-oil grade per year/season idea from me , nice nice . Yes , you can add about 1ml-2ml of 2t (good synthetic one preferred for less residues) per liter as is being used by our dear psr'jee on his ZMA . However I don't recommend it for bikes as new as yours which has done low miles yet and has been used with care and regular oil changes. That is, has had no problems in growing up, so to speak , . No harm in it , but not necessary for the splendor . Maybe beyond 50k kms on it , when it starts to belch smoke from exhaust . For now , to clean out valves etc , you can fill a tank or two of IOCL XtraPremium petrol occasionally , and run your bike for a few kms at max revs and speed you can on an empty stretch or road . Works well for me .
The fuel mileage I used to get on my splendor plus was same as you a few months back while in ASC hands for service . But now it's up at 71kms-78kms per liter in congested city suburbs torture , after I did the following things to it .
i) Downsized the front tyre & tube to 2.5x18 mrf nylorib (rx-100 stock size) .
ii) Replaced crappy OE rear tyre with my fav mrf nylogrip Moto-C 2.75x18 (stock size) .
iii) take care to correct pressure in both wheels every 3-4 days .
iv) cleaned out the carb and carefully and patiently tuned it by hand myself .
v) took out all four wheel bearings and the sprocket-carrier bearing , removed the one-side rubber seal carefully , cleaned in kerosene , dried and the re-packed with clean new wheel-bearing grease, pressed the seal back in and refitted with plenty of clean grease in all axle and hub areas . Brakes sand-papered adjusted and cam pivots greased sparingly . Sprocket-carrier bearing(non-sealed) was found to be running dry and one front wheel-bearing defective - replaced .
vi) cleaned the chain & sprocket, correctly slacked and keep them lubed weekly with ep90 gear oil & little grease .
vii) cleaned , dried and re-oiled and refitted air filter element myself .
viii) cleaned re-gapped accurately the spark plug .
Post replies in the splendor ownership thread , this is off-topic here .

[pioneeraron]

+1 to madhav krishna

Completely agree with you.Shell advance ultra is a highly refined mineral oil.It doesnt show any properties of a true synthetic.I share the same opinion for the Petronas Sprinta 5000T.I drained both these oils before 2500kms.Out of these i found Petronas to be the worst after 2000kms,engine would knock at low rpm's.Shell would act sometimes really ruff and sometimes really smooth.Drained shell at 2250kms since i got my clutch plates changed.Oil was black.