these r some pic references from my side.





this is for front drum brake setup.



PLUG gap recommended for Pulsar 180/150 1 or 1.2mm for better tuning.This recommendation is from OF sir.

Thank you C_Sbk for the illustrative Pics. If people can understand, it is very Nice!!!

Nicely explained there by chintu bhaiya & L.P ji.. good workshop
especially when chintu bhaiya explained me the clutch system in pulsar i was amazed.

This G2G was purported to be the one with a difference and it did turn out that way. Planned as a Basic Maintenance Demonstration workshop where quite a few aspects of motorcycle maintenance were to be showcased, scarcity of time and an addition of variety (courtesy Vivek's TTR 250) permitted work on:

1. Front Disc brake service which included

a. Wheel removal
b Brake Pad removal and re-fitting
c. Calliper service
d. Re-assembly of the whole thing

2. Rear Drum Brake service

a. Rear Wheel removal and re-fitting
b. Drum Brake dis-assembly
c. Brake shoe changing
d. Rear drum re-assembly
e. Rear wheel re-fitting and brake adjustment

3. Handle-bar Adjustment

a. Discussing the need for adjustment and the possibilities therein
b. Actual adjustment vis a vis bracket loosening and tightening
c. relevant precautions while performing the adjustment

4. Chain Adjustment

a. Loosening the rear axle and chain-sprocket mounting nuts
b. Adjusting the chain and inspecting slack at the chain-cover window
c. Tightening/torquing the sprocket nut
d. Tightening the Axle nut and fixing the torque link
e. Chain slack inspection post torquing of al nuts
f. Rear brake adjustment check

Bike used: HH Hunk (thanks to Bandhav)
Demo expert: c_sbk aka Chintu aka Aseesh Pandey

A single sheet illustrated Chain Adjustment procedure write-up is attached here. I had prepared a few such write-ups quite sometime back as ready reference. I had the P180 V1 in those days so that's what's used here as the demo bike. But the procedure is more or less the same for all present day bikes.



We had a good turn-out and the variety of two-wheeled steeds was enviable. Apart from the usual Pulsars (across the 'cc' spectrum), the ZMA Hunks and RTRs, we had a Comet (Nitin's), Ken's R1 and Vivek's TTR 250.

The TTR had given a few problems to Vivek during his recent trip to Himachal and he was keen on getting to the root of the issue. It had lost power at altitude and the engine gasped and 'missed' under load. In all probability it would be an issue with excess fuel supply and the fueling system needed attention. So we decided to service its carburettor, which in turn would serve the dual purpose of making us familiar with a relatively complex carburettor of a 30 BHP off-roader and allow us to look for alternative jets etc after seeing the default ones inside.

The bike is a '94 model but in surprisingly good condition, especially engine-wise. Getting to the carb was a slight pain as these bikes have dense packaging and quite a few parts and pieces need to be romoved/manipulated to get to where one wants to. Anyways, the carb did come out, was cleaned, the main jet estimated to be something around #140 and seeing the state of the spark-plug (also that the bike spluttered a lot at altitude), it was obvious that a smaller jet by some 5-7 numbers would be just right. Of course, its hit and trial but the carb service did put up a good reference. Also a plug a step higher in the heat range would help the engine attain fuller combustion.

The service and subsequent adjustment made a whale of a difference to the bike's performance, as attested by Vivek after a test ride. Even Nitin and I could discern a strong surge in power, unfamiliar as we were with the bike before the service. A couple of fruitful hours of bike-work were thus concluded.

A few attendees (Psycho_McCrazy for one) made dedicated videos, both of the work on Bandhav's Hunk and some action on the TTR front. Waiting for them to put up the same on youtube or the likes. Also waiting for some sequential still photographs of the procedures demonstrated.

Thank you everyone for being there and a special thanks to Chintu for his efforts and to Bandhav for entursting us with his precious steed. Lets do more of such activity in the winter months coming up.

Ride long and safe...

OF

whoa!! u all r doing a very good job..! just the thing neeeded for me..
why dont u start a seperate thread..?? it would be more helpfull.

Good Idea.. Let us Collate the Complete Data!!! and then Universal Thread Might be launched!

hi all,
'm really sorry for not attending this G2G though i confirmed.

got a urgent call from 1 of my old client and need to rush to Gurgaon for a meeting. so unable to manage.

will check the thread now...

SAme case with me..

Sincere apologies to everyone.

damn!! shouldn't have missed this one.

One of the most productive and knowledgable G2G thanks to Old Fox Sir and Chintoo Bhai (c_sbk) under there guidance there are hell lot of things to learn....they are genius in there field man seriousy hats off to Old Fox Sir for organising such a beautiful thing...thank you Sir

I managed to learn few things about the TTR thanks to Vivek Bhai for the explaining about his bike.... and then helped Old Fox Sir to open the tank and seat.... its an amazing bike ...wanted to be there longer but due to my friend going sick got an urgent call and had to move psstt.... waiting for more of these kind of G2Gs

One Suggestion: we can be actually bike specific so that we can save time. Like this time it was Bandhav's HH Hunk next time if the G2G is going to be at the same time lets make it like Pulsar maintenance workshop or Karizma maintenance workshop or 2-strokes maintenance workshop in this way we will actually learn a lot about bikes mechanicals...

Managed to find the post related to servicing the front disc brake of the ZMA.

Link to the post: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...tml#post238612

Below is the same post pasted here as this thread holds more relevance.

To cure the squeaking, you need to clean the brakes. I had put up a 'pictorial walk-through thread for ZMA's disc brake cleaning on the pre-crash forum. Doing it here again.

The problem: The brake lever felt hard, lever travel felt sort of rough which made brake feather and trail braking rather devoid of proper feedback. The brakes squeaked even when the wheel was turned by hand.

The diagnosis: The ZMA has floating callipers and the calliper pins need cleaning and greasing at times, especially during the monsoon. Due to accumulated dust, moisture contamination and possibly traces of rust, the calliper does not float freely on the pins. This affects both brake application and brake release.

Tools needed: see pic below


The Procedure in pictures:

2. Remove the Axle nut with a 19mm spanner, using the 14mm spanner to hold the head end of the axle to prevent it from rotating.


3. Pull out the axle while supporting the wheel


4. Roll the wheel out, sliding the bottom end side-ways a bit to clear the fender. Make sure you don't touch the disc surface with your fingers. Skin oil or other greasiness could affect braking later.


5. Below is a detail-labelled picture of the disc brake.


6. Unscrew the disc pad pin caps using the flat head screwdriver. Use a driver with a blade that is large enough to fit well into the slot and allows you to apply proper force without slipping and damaging the slot.


7. Beneath the caps, the allen heads of the pad retaining pins become visible


8. Use the 4mm Allen Key to unscrew the retaining pins


9. And pull the pins out


10. The disc pads now hang loose. And you can clearly see the wear-limit grooves. These pads on my bike have another 5000 odd kms left in them considering my riding habits




11. Remove the pads, clean their sides and back with the wire brush and rub the face with emery paper


12. Now you can clearly see the calliper pistons and the pad springs. DO NOT clean any of the parts around the pistons with petrol or kerosene or diesel or any other solvent. You will end up damaging the seals within. A mild soap solution and a soft tooth brush will do the job well enough


13. Grab hold of the calliper body and pull it outwards. (The direction is indicated by the red arrow in the pic below). Small rubber boots similar to their larger cousins on front fork tubes, cover the floating pins. Just pulling firmly and smoothly will allow a clean dis-engage of their sealing lip and the calliper body will slide off as shown






Wipe the pins with a clean cloth, apply new grease (preferably EP - Extreme Pressure type) and reassemble the unit going backwards over the procedure of dis-assembling it.

14. Put in the disc pads starting with the inner one and pushing the retaining pins partially through it


#Wash the bike, at least the area you will be working on, to avoid getting unnecessarily dirty/oily hands into places that get damaged by the dirt/oil. (I did not do it but you can be wiser than that)

## MAKE SURE NO ONE PRESSES THE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WHEN YOU HAVE REMOVED THE FRONT WHEEL. THE PISTONS GET PUSHED THROUGH WHEN THERE IS NO RESISTANCE TO THEIR MOVEMENT AND GETTING THEM BACK IN ENTAILS A LOT OF UNNECESSARY WORK.

# When using the emery paper on the pads, do not rub the emery on the pads. Instead, place the emery on a flat surface and gently slide the pads face down on it. The point is to rub off the top glazing without taking out any miles out of their use

OF

Nice walkthrough there! Wish I had one when I opened up my disc! While at it, how about a walkthrough on changing brake fluids and bleeding the disc brake?

Edit - A separate DIY thread would be better, I guess!

nice writeups there. especially OldFox Sir's.

This friday is off for me so I'll convert and youtube all videos that I have on that day (raw/unedited).

Will also work towards getting my machines back in order for editing and uploading properly.