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With great power comes great responsibilities. Well I can co-relate this with my Race Concept FFE. With performance came LOUD exhaust note. Well music to some, noise to most. And commuting, touring and riding to every nook and corner of the city with this LOUD exhaust aren't practical. I use to get the following reaction everywhere 
Tried stuffing as much wool(steel wool/ceramic wool) as I could, but the exhaust won't keep quiet for more than a month or (1000-1500 Kms). Wish Race Concepts had decent noise management for the FFE(DB killer is not of much use because of its back pressure in 3-5K RPM. Mostly in city traffic, riding becomes difficult with that).
Well I was confused because the Ceramic wool, which we had used to stuff FFE, was of industrial grade and could sustain 1300 degrees. A simple fire test of the Ceramic wool we have used.
After burning the wool for 5 mins, what do we have? Everything
Checked on xbhp but couldn't get concrete info on how to repack the FFE. Started exploring FFE forums and got inputs on problems with Ceramic wool(Ceramic wool is very effective if it is used in static devices. Vibration and water are the two biggest problems with ceramic wool). Came across Two Brothers videos of repacking FFE.
Finally found that our approach of stuffing as much ceramic wool(by crushing it) in the Can, wasn't correct and hence ineffective. As per the inputs, we needed a three layer packing. Base layer(cylinder) of metal screen with steel wool/rope wrapped on it and finally ceramic wool wrapped on the steel wool layer. Steel wool layer helps in absorbing soot and enhances Ceramic wool's life. Normally in FFE's you can take out the perforated pipe and wrap the layers on top. With RC FFE, we didn't have that option and yes, it increased the effort required.
Let's start with the ingredients required.
Steel wool,
Ceramic Wool,
Riveting Tool,
Drilling machine,
Metal Screen,
Metal wire,
Gloves
Step 1:
Use the drilling machine to drill the rivet.
Step 2:
Carefully open the end can and inspect the inner perforated pipe.
Step 3:
Measure the radius of first layer(metal screen layer) by trial and error method and use metal wire to maintain the cylinder shape.
Future planning
Step 4:
Wrap Steel Wool and than wrap Ceramic wool to complete the packing.
Future planned
Safely stored repacking for future usages
Step 5:
Carefully place the repacking in the can by sliding it on top of perforated pipe. It's not tricky but make it smooth and avoid forceful insertion
Step 6:
Close the end of can with cap. Make sure you align the rivet holes of can with those of cap. I missed Silicone sealant though.
Step 7:
Using a riveting tool, rivet all the holes.
Job done and you live PEACEFULLY ever after
PS: Please add on things I have missed or things could be done better.
Tried stuffing as much wool(steel wool/ceramic wool) as I could, but the exhaust won't keep quiet for more than a month or (1000-1500 Kms). Wish Race Concepts had decent noise management for the FFE(DB killer is not of much use because of its back pressure in 3-5K RPM. Mostly in city traffic, riding becomes difficult with that).
Well I was confused because the Ceramic wool, which we had used to stuff FFE, was of industrial grade and could sustain 1300 degrees. A simple fire test of the Ceramic wool we have used.
After burning the wool for 5 mins, what do we have? Everything
Checked on xbhp but couldn't get concrete info on how to repack the FFE. Started exploring FFE forums and got inputs on problems with Ceramic wool(Ceramic wool is very effective if it is used in static devices. Vibration and water are the two biggest problems with ceramic wool). Came across Two Brothers videos of repacking FFE.
Finally found that our approach of stuffing as much ceramic wool(by crushing it) in the Can, wasn't correct and hence ineffective. As per the inputs, we needed a three layer packing. Base layer(cylinder) of metal screen with steel wool/rope wrapped on it and finally ceramic wool wrapped on the steel wool layer. Steel wool layer helps in absorbing soot and enhances Ceramic wool's life. Normally in FFE's you can take out the perforated pipe and wrap the layers on top. With RC FFE, we didn't have that option and yes, it increased the effort required.
Let's start with the ingredients required.
Steel wool,
Ceramic Wool,
Riveting Tool,
Drilling machine,
Metal Screen,
Metal wire,
Gloves
Step 1:
Use the drilling machine to drill the rivet.
Step 2:
Carefully open the end can and inspect the inner perforated pipe.
Step 3:
Measure the radius of first layer(metal screen layer) by trial and error method and use metal wire to maintain the cylinder shape.
Future planning
Step 4:
Wrap Steel Wool and than wrap Ceramic wool to complete the packing.
Future planned
Safely stored repacking for future usages
Step 5:
Carefully place the repacking in the can by sliding it on top of perforated pipe. It's not tricky but make it smooth and avoid forceful insertion
Step 6:
Close the end of can with cap. Make sure you align the rivet holes of can with those of cap. I missed Silicone sealant though.
Step 7:
Using a riveting tool, rivet all the holes.
Job done and you live PEACEFULLY ever after
PS: Please add on things I have missed or things could be done better.
future planning pics look like you've prepared some bombs and plan to take over the world (or at least old city) !!
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