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Boric acid + engine oils, does it work out??

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  • vipin_s
    replied
    Found this while reading the link posted by psr...
    Friendly and helpful customer support that goes above and beyond. We help you get the perfect domain name.


    I may 'borofying' my achiever, but only when Speed/RPM ratio goes down a bit, right now my bike reaches 60 exactly at 4700-4800 rpm, odo reads 16.4K, may be I will try after 20K.
    One thing to be noted is use of purest form of boric powder is important, when I read the link, guys are using different grams, different proportions, different procedures for mixing etc etc..I hope some one will find out exact amount for 4T bikes and standardised steps to be followed...if some Automotive lecturers/professors are reading this thread, they can experiment in detail and can be a nice research for their students, the cost too will not be much.

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Please read all the posts in this link for clarity.It is there since 2006

    My Experience With adding Boric Acid in Engine oil - Team-BHP

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by Only Amit... View Post
    I used 1 spoon as karthik has mentioned the ratio to be 3gm per 1litre oil.I will try using 20gm when I change this oil next week.Boric powder isnt that costly .
    In my car I went upto 40gms per liter....and no problems...but with wet clutch I was a bit apprehensive..but to my surprise the little clutch slip I had went away..in fact I was planning on changing the plates but this mix had given a new lease of life...and I am going to add another 20 gms mix this week end....and my 20w40 oil at 1,020 Kms still looks new and level also same.
    My Odo reads 36xxx kms ,puchased it on Nov 2009
    I didn't find any noticable difference after side gapping may be because I was using iridium plug(+splitfire cables) which is still in pretty good condition.Now the splitfire is there with the sidegapped local plug, hope it wont blow up
    Amit the original cable of ZMA is a straight through multi strand cable with no resistance and is best suited for higher spark power...In fact in my ZMA i noticed with a DMM that there is a resistor in the plug cap. So i opened it( i was quite lucky nothing broke,since it is sealed) and found the resistance and removed it...There is already a resistor of 4,000 ohms in stock plug and so this is superfluous.The spark is really healthy and i see the arcing marks on the plug electrodes.
    I have tried things and sometimes screwed up the bike temporarily as well, But I prefer it this way rather than asking detail reports to others or waiting for someone to implement.
    Good going....As they say " When the going gets tough ...the tough get going "
    Replies in bold.
    Last edited by psr; 06-28-2011, 08:26 PM.

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  • Only Amit...
    replied
    Originally posted by karthik_k View Post
    Its like this, boric acid (3gms) + 1 litre of oil when mixed & put in the engine, under such high pressure & temperature, Boric acid is transformed as Boric oxide which is tougher than the metal used in engine itself.
    Originally posted by psr View Post
    Amit you require at least 20gms in karizma..a spoon will give you hardly 5gms..don't expect anything at all...how is the side gap working for you ?
    how much on odo in your bike .
    To try anything new you need to know the basic and trust yourself, and be prepared to accept results other than expected...
    I used 1 spoon as karthik has mentioned the ratio to be 3gm per 1litre oil.I will try using 20gm when I change this oil next week.Boric powder isnt that costly .
    My Odo reads 36xxx kms ,puchased it on Nov 2009
    I didn't find any noticable difference after side gapping may be because I was using iridium plug(+splitfire cables) which is still in pretty good condition.Now the splitfire is there with the sidegapped local plug, hope it wont blow up
    I have tried things and sometimes screwed up the bike temporarily as well, But I prefer it this way rather than asking detail reports to others or waiting for someone to implement.

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by velociraptor13 View Post
    Can this method be successfully employed on turbo charged diesel engines,eg- swift vdi?.Any effects on pump,turbo bearings,injectors etc?
    i had tried this in Toyota Qualis, Innova,Tata Indica, with good results....BUT ALWAYS WITH NEW ENGINE OIL ONLY...
    You test at your risk...

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by Only Amit... View Post
    After sidegapping my sparkplug I found THIS is another finetuning I can try out with my ZMA.It has run around 1500kms with the existing oil and I was thinking of top up before next 100kms+ ride.
    I picked up 150ml of semi used SS oil, added less than a tea spoon of boric acid,mixed it throughly and poured it to the engine.
    Results:
    In the 18km ride to office I didn't note any drastic change, the engine runs a bit smoother but I am sure thats the result of the top up.I will go for a longer ride this weekend and post the outcome.

    The Best way to kill curosity is Try it Yourself !!!
    Amit you require at least 20gms in karizma..a spoon will give you hardly 5gms..don't expect anything at all...how is the side gap working for you ?
    how much on odo in your bike .
    To try anything new you need to know the basic and trust yourself, and be prepared to accept results other than expected...

    Leave a comment:


  • Only Amit...
    replied
    After sidegapping my sparkplug I found THIS is another finetuning I can try out with my ZMA.It has run around 1500kms with the existing oil and I was thinking of top up before next 100kms+ ride.
    I picked up 150ml of semi used SS oil, added less than a tea spoon of boric acid,mixed it throughly and poured it to the engine.
    Results:
    In the 18km ride to office I didn't note any drastic change, the engine runs a bit smoother but I am sure thats the result of the top up.I will go for a longer ride this weekend and post the outcome.

    The Best way to kill curosity is Try it Yourself !!!

    Leave a comment:


  • velociraptor13
    replied
    Originally posted by psr View Post
    Prince you are worried and rightly so, but if any thing happens due to any other reason also you will suspect this method..So for peace of mind stay away from it.
    It is exactly 1,020 Kms since i did the add on of mix to my ZMA , 5,600 since in my Lancer and (that's all i had done in 3 years)and about 24 K Kms in KB 100.
    The best results have been in my OldEsteem, Lancer and now ZMA.
    Can this method be successfully employed on turbo charged diesel engines,eg- swift vdi?.Any effects on pump,turbo bearings,injectors etc?

    Leave a comment:


  • Centaur
    replied
    Originally posted by princesirohi View Post
    so you are using it in your ZMA since how many kms? plz tell in details, also who else is using it? anybody tried it in pulsars?

    i find this thought of adding something to engine oil quite scarry..

    won't it create some sludge.
    I've done it on my 8 month old P220 (did it at 15800 kms). It's been about 400 kms and I guess I find the engine to be smoother and finding neutral is also easier than it was before.

    But, as psr said, if you have any doubts, it's better to stay away from this, or at least till your doubts are cleared.

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by princesirohi View Post
    so you are using it in your ZMA since how many kms? plz tell in details, also who else is using it? anybody tried it in pulsars?

    i find this thought of adding something to engine oil quite scarry..

    won't it create some sludge.
    Prince you are worried and rightly so, but if any thing happens due to any other reason also you will suspect this method..So for peace of mind stay away from it.
    It is exactly 1,020 Kms since i did the add on of mix to my ZMA , 5,600 since in my Lancer and (that's all i had done in 3 years)and about 24 K Kms in KB 100.
    The best results have been in my OldEsteem, Lancer and now ZMA.

    Leave a comment:


  • princesirohi
    replied
    so you are using it in your ZMA since how many kms? plz tell in details, also who else is using it? anybody tried it in pulsars?

    i find this thought of adding something to engine oil quite scarry..

    won't it create some sludge.

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by princesirohi View Post
    if it increases teh lubricating properties of oil, won't there be clutch slippage.??
    Theoretically, yes , but in actual life it does not happen..read my post #39 in same thread.
    Boric acid bonds to metal , and with bonding to clutch metal plates, I guess the surface becomes smooth with all gaps filled in..thereby increasing surface tension and area..So in my ZMA the little clutch slip I had is gone now, and after 1,000 Kms it is better and clutch engagement is sharp,within a few mm of release unlike the vague slow release before.

    Leave a comment:


  • princesirohi
    replied
    if it increases teh lubricating properties of oil, won't there be clutch slippage.??

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by Omega Man View Post
    Excellent, Informative and Scientifically backed article.

    This article scientifically backs up & proves all those positive claims on this and other threads for use of Boric Acid with Engine Oil.

    I have some doubts if anyone has an answer?


    IMO, a small can of NULON will also work in a similar way when added to engine oil as adding Boric Acid Powder. In fact Nulon consists of Teflon, the slipperiest substance known to mankind. Available in 2 versions, 2-stroke and 4-stroke. 2-stroke version is 100ml to be added to Petrol Tank and 4-stroke version is 50ml to be added to Engine Oil sump. Approx Rs.100 and is supposed to last 10k kms as it coats the engine parts and is supposed to be excellent for starting issues as the engine parts remain coated with Nulon, even if the oil has settled to the sump when the bike is not used for a long time or overnight specifically in winter.
    The Boric acid to be used is from Pharmacy and medical grade.
    read the content of this link..:

    Nano-boric acid makes motor oil more slippery

    Regarding Nulon the following link gives more info :

    PTFE Engine Protection? or not!

    In fact teflon used in non stick cook ware is a very dangerous toxin producing compound..

    Last edited by psr; 06-27-2011, 05:33 PM.

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  • Omega Man
    replied
    Originally posted by antz.bin View Post
    Read This and decide
    Excellent, Informative and Scientifically backed article.

    This article scientifically backs up & proves all those positive claims on this and other threads for use of Boric Acid with Engine Oil.

    I have some doubts if anyone has an answer?

    Boric Acid is used on Carrom Board not just to make it slippery but keep the board surface free from moisture. Boric Acid is also known for its good moisture absorbing properties. So how will this moisture absorbing feature of Boric Acid affect engine oil? Will it make it thick?

    Also, what are the effects of extreme heat on Boric Acid Powder in Engine Oil?

    There are two types of Boric Acid Powders available. One for Carrom Boards and another for chemical/pharmaceutical use. One is very light & fluffy, bright white & super fine while the other is a shade duller & rough in texture. Hope people are using the former and not the latter. When buying from a medical store, specifically mention that its for Carrom use.

    IMO, a small can of NULON will also work in a similar way when added to engine oil as adding Boric Acid Powder. In fact Nulon consists of Teflon, the slipperiest substance known to mankind. Available in 2 versions, 2-stroke and 4-stroke. 2-stroke version is 100ml to be added to Petrol Tank and 4-stroke version is 50ml to be added to Engine Oil sump. Approx Rs.100 and is supposed to last 10k kms as it coats the engine parts and is supposed to be excellent for starting issues as the engine parts remain coated with Nulon, even if the oil has settled to the sump when the bike is not used for a long time or overnight specifically in winter.
    Last edited by Omega Man; 06-27-2011, 01:22 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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