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Guide (Run-in & Maintenance) for new Pulsar Owners

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  • Guide (Run-in & Maintenance) for new Pulsar Owners

    Hi Guys,

    There have been several posts where people have unknowingly ruined (or risk ruinning) their bikes by not running in their bikes properly. Like : http://www.xbhp.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1477 In some posts I offered to give some good reading document to those who wanted some guidance on running in and maitaining thier new Bikes. I am not the author of this document, but I just downloaded it from the files section of the [email protected] forum.

    However as the Govt. of India has blocked access to all yahoo groups due to some stupid reason, most people cannot access this document. I emailed this document to several xBHPians who have liked it. So I thought of posting the document here itself here so that It can be of use to everyone.

    Sorry for cross-posting, but valuable information like this is better spread than hidden.

    Now back to the document. This document has been painstakingly written by Dr. Vistasp Sethna (Doc.)Thanks Doc!




    A DOCUMENT FOR NEW PULSAR OWNERS

    STARTING TECHNIQUE:

    For morning starts, use the kick + choke (I leave the choke for a slow count of 30 and then close the choke decrementally till the engine is firing smoothly).

    Its a good practice to first (with the ignition in the OFF position) depress the clutch and kick 5 times for the oil in the sump to circulate slightly.

    Do not start the bike when the headlight switch is set to ON or even if the dome/pilot lamps only position is set, as it may cause both/either of your bulbs to fuse due to surge of current.

    Keep the clutch depressed for some time alternating with depressing/releasing the clutch for the oil to flow between the plates.

    Ride smoothly without any sudden acceleration for the first couple of kilometers, then open up.



    RIDING TECHNIQUE (during and after run-in)After completing the running in, don't start rippin' ur bike at 100+ immediately (a commemorative "ton" is a must though just to appease the adrenaline Gods!!!!), get your bike used to incremental increases in speed in multiples of 5 kmph and then move to the next higher speed.



    THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR:

    Preferably wash your bike thoroughly once a week and check for any leaks, loose fastenings, etc. Do not splash water onto the bike (especially the top of the tank) with a mug or a hosepipe, either spray wash (pressure) or else wash with a wet cloth.

    IMPORTANT: In the event that water does get into the tank through the filler cap or into the carb bowl, the bike will sputter and die on you a number of times afterwards. Water being heavier than petrol will collect in the carb bowl and can be drained. PROCEDURE: First shut off the petcock (to prevent draining expensive petrol in the process!). Then loosen the screw seen immediately below the carb bowl (the lowest carb screw looking at it from the left side of the bike) and let water/petrol from the bowl drain out thru the transparent pipe leading out from the bottom of the carb. After the drainage has stopped, FIRST tighten the screw and THEN put on the petcock.

    Use a car shampoo to wash your bike, not ordinary soap or any other household detergents that will dull the finish of the paint. Car shampoos with Carnauba wax are a good idea (Formula 1, Waxpol, etc.)

    Keep an eye open for any leaks around the top of the engine and near the gearbox (excess chain oil also causes an oil slick to develop on the chain cover). Also look at the ground beneath the bike every morning to check for any oil spill (WARNING: After an oil change, make sure the drain nut has been properly tightened).

    Malfunctioning switches/electricals (possible problem areas - front brake switch and starter).

    Wash your tyres and top up the air pressure once a week and slowly rotate and inspect each tyre to look for cuts, cracks, embedded sharp objects, and also pebbles in the treads which should be removed.

    While washing the wheels/tyres, check for loose/broken/bent spokes (check wheel trueness once in 3 months or so, especially if riding on bad roads or have hit a pothole hard/at speed).

    While washing, make sure that the drain holes in the filler cap area and under the silencer are not clogged.

    Get your chain-slack adjusted and chain lubricated preferably every 800 km.

    Check battery fluid level at least once a month and keep an eye on the brake fluid level too (though that's just precautionary).

    Make it a habit to shut off the petcock whenever you park your bike so that it becomes instinctive after a while. Adding an in-line petrol filter of the Caliber is a good idea (in between the petcock and the carb).

    Keep the bike on center stand if it is going to be parked for a long time. Also, do not park the bike on side-stand on a slight slop as the Pulsar has a tendency to slide forward off the side stand and fall down many a times.



    PUNCTURES
    2003 Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i (first gen, spoked 18" wheels)
    2005 Ford Fusion+
    2006 Bajaj Wave 110 DTS-i
    2010 Bergamont Tronic Sport

  • #2

    gliffy
    its been a while, jus gt my comp fixed, meanwhile have don 1207 on my 180dtsi in 20 days. got the first service done, and have been trying to run it in to the best of my abilities [8D]
    thanx for ur very valueable directions i am sure th'll be very useful.....havent crossed 4000 rpm n 6o kmph yet....but now that u say, will try reving it up a little now n then
    gud luck with ur bike dude
    keep her happy
    cheers
    been there...dun that.

    Comment


    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by rash_rp

      It will surely help a lot of DTSi owners prevent smoking...
      That's exactly why I posted it. Hope some more of them read it! Has helped me a lot!
      2003 Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i (first gen, spoked 18" wheels)
      2005 Ford Fusion+
      2006 Bajaj Wave 110 DTS-i
      2010 Bergamont Tronic Sport

      Comment


      • #4
        the idea of running in 1k or 2k kms at slow speeds was phased out in other countries,here with obscene parts quality it's different.actually after 750 kms u should gradually increase the load on engine,than let the bike rest to recover,this makes the bike open the bore's expantion to high speeds.if for the run in period there is no high speed exposure to the bike,it won't perform to it's max.this is a truth excepted world over.but if someone is doubtful bout it plz clearify before implementing this.BTW we ran in venkatesh's t'bird on this principle and it kicks other t'bird's ass
        \'87 High Torque RD 350B
        in first gear,6000 rpm,whack the throttle.

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by rajnish

          ........actually after 750 kms u should gradually increase the load on engine,than let the bike rest to recover,this makes the bike open the bore's expantion to high speeds...........
          Hi Rajnish,

          I too have read about it. They say short bursts to the next RPM are recommended to open up the engine. I plan to do that... right now I am some 530 KM clocked. But I guess will start off after 1000 or so KM.

          And could you please elaborate on the "rest" for the bike concept for the benefit of all of us.

          Some people have told that you simply hold back the clutch and coast along till you can and let the engine return to idle speed. Doing this is enough!

          Others say that you need to pull over, stop the engine, let it cool and take a butt break for a couple of minutes.

          What do you say Rajnish? What is the best approach.

          And for the benefit of all of us could you please elaborate the method (step-by-step if you please) you followed to run in Venkatesh's T-bird? How long and fast (KMPH or RPM) were those high speed runs and the rest periods? Will be some nice info for sure! Afterall that's what differentiates his Bike from the mopeds

          [}] []
          2003 Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i (first gen, spoked 18" wheels)
          2005 Ford Fusion+
          2006 Bajaj Wave 110 DTS-i
          2010 Bergamont Tronic Sport

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by rajnish

            the idea of running in 1k or 2k kms at slow speeds was phased out in other countries,here with obscene parts quality it's different
            Reminds me...In Bajaj they were experimenting with an aluminium block for 2 stroke engines (Scooters, Sunny and KB 125). These had a hard chrome bore that was very smooth and wear resistant.

            These required no running in whatsoever! And had an amazing life of over 200,000 KM.

            It was my friend's factory that had developed these blocks with some german collaboration and they were supplying to BAL.

            But I don't really know what happened as I guess 2 strokes are virtually out here and my friend's company seems bust !

            Anyways most 4 stroke bike engines use Aluminium blocks with a honed cast iron liner pressed in. With the exception of I guess the HH 97 CC ones that still use the CI ones and of course the Bullet Electra range.
            2003 Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i (first gen, spoked 18" wheels)
            2005 Ford Fusion+
            2006 Bajaj Wave 110 DTS-i
            2010 Bergamont Tronic Sport

            Comment


            • #7
              it is the butt resting method.
              it involves opening the bike,taking it to 70,then rest,then taking it to 80 then rest.this is the gradual run in wherein u make the liner,piston,rings and the valves accustomed to the heat and expansion of high speed,so tht eventually when u open the bike it won't hesitate coz it had not been taken to those speeds and the liner etc won't take the expansion due to lack of clearence,clearence is the key here.
              \'87 High Torque RD 350B
              in first gear,6000 rpm,whack the throttle.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks Rajnish!

                Any more tips for us? How long do you stick to that speed or drop as soon as you touch it.

                And how long a butt rest do you suggest?
                2003 Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-i (first gen, spoked 18" wheels)
                2005 Ford Fusion+
                2006 Bajaj Wave 110 DTS-i
                2010 Bergamont Tronic Sport

                Comment


                • #9
                  a gradual surge of speed followed by a rest of 2-3 mins will do.
                  My kb 125 has a chromed bore only,the life unfortunately is not very good.also they can't be rebored.but yes life is better than the std.bore.
                  \'87 High Torque RD 350B
                  in first gear,6000 rpm,whack the throttle.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by rajnish

                    it is the butt resting method.
                    it involves opening the bike,taking it to 70,then rest,then taking it to 80 then rest.
                    Hi,
                    I have a doubt. DO we take it to 70 and then come 2 a complete halt(2-3 mins) and then move on again and take it to 80 and come 2 a halt? OR just depress the clutch and move "freely" till we slow down to a low speed(but not halt) and then continue?

                    Vivek
                    Like the aroma of burning rubber!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      i can't do tht.or would have made it sticky.
                      see u take the bike to 70,then drop the speed slowly,then pull it off road and let it rest.
                      \'87 High Torque RD 350B
                      in first gear,6000 rpm,whack the throttle.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        if u care come and check m8
                        \'87 High Torque RD 350B
                        in first gear,6000 rpm,whack the throttle.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi,

                          Finally, after a very very long time , i am back to xBHP !! But then its completely changed since i last visited it. This appears absolutely cool .... Guys have done an excellent polishing work... xBHP ROCKS man !!!!
                          Actually all these days i was busy with my new 150-DTSi (Have the new Bajaj logo on it.)

                          Now on the stats :

                          Odo Reads : 2090.
                          Average : 57-60 KMPL
                          Fuel : Unleaded (Will now be trying Speed 93.)

                          I had a few question regarding the run-in, before which i would like to summarize the run-in period.

                          0-500 -> Did take nice care to stick to the Pulsar Manual, following
                          the gear and speeds mentioned in it.
                          501-1000 -> Started to open up, only at higher gears slowly.
                          1000-1500-> More of Opening at all level of gears.

                          I find that in the 60-65 region the bike is running very smooth, just need to feel to be able to explain, it starts at above 70 kmph, where i start to get the vibrations. Can someone explain this ???

                          Apart from this, i found that the rear tyre skids on braking ? Did anyone else feel it, i also feel there is a ply in the rear wheel, especially at turns, but the service personnel says there is nothing wrong ...!!! [?]

                          Finally , i have a wrist-pain (any one else does ??? ), need to change the position of the handle, or change the handle. I do not have grips put in place, will adding grips help .. I know one of my friends riding 180-DTSi visiting the doc with the wrist pain and he had grips put on the bar....

                          Guys .. I'm waiting for your comments ...

                          _\\??/_
                          (@[email protected])
                          ..`V

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            All the credit goes to sunny, as abt ur queries i'll try to answer some of them
                            -> there is arnge near 70 whr bike feels shaky but that will go away after the runin period if it doesn't go after 2nd service tell it to the service station
                            -> depends on how u brake, u must brake in ratio of 70:30 i.e. 70% front brake & 30% rear brake
                            -> if ur riding a heavy bike( guys its heavy if u compare it to splendors & scooters) then it does makes ur wrist ache, my right hand acehd for 2 full days after i bought my 180 DTSi as i was previously riding a baja sccoter.

                            I hope this helps

                            Techno
                            Racing Throttle Response

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              quote:Originally posted by Technocrat

                              All the credit goes to sunny
                              Definitely , Cheers to SUNNY, Like's definitely become BRIGHTER (Shining sunny ).

                              Agreed that the wrist pain is due to the fact that it needs to be whipped often when you are riding , and is similar to the who gets the pain when he starts to workout

                              Brake ratio was not what you mentioned , but approximately the other way round 60:40::REAR:FRONT, fine but could you explain this with some more rigor.

                              Did anyone experience knocking at high engine rpm's idle state, i noticed this when i opened the throttle at idle and the engine seemed to be hesitating at 90 KMPH speed, any comments, suggestion ?

                              Here in Bangalore the bikes takes in a lot of fine dust, can someone suggest a solution, coz cleaning with a soft cloth leads to scratching and the dirt is tough to remove.

                              Looking forward to get enlightened.

                              Pankaj (Chaman)
                              _\\??/_
                              (@[email protected])
                              ..`V

                              Comment

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