Sorry for late crashing the party.

Tell me one thing dude, you have a 220 right?

Now what's the STOCK FEMALE PLUG? Is it 2 ping or three pin? Because, from you pic i can see a three pin female socket of 220!

Bro, mine is also Carb version. And for that matter both Fi and non-fi has the same headlight sockets. I'm not sure what's happening here. But every 220 DTSi with 2 seperate bulbs, require two sepeate 2 pin sockets.

Who did your wiring in the first place? If your 220 is the faired version with two seperate bulb for lo/hi it cannot have 3 pin stock socket.

Bro, mine is also Carb version. And for that matter both Fi and non-fi has the same headlight sockets. I'm not sure what's happening here. But every 220 DTSi with 2 seperate bulbs, require two sepeate 2 pin sockets.

Who did your wiring in the first place? If your 220 is the faired version with two seperate bulb for lo/hi it cannot have 3 pin stock socket.

Bro, mine is also Carb version. And for that matter both Fi and non-fi has the same headlight sockets. I'm not sure what's happening here. But every 220 DTSi with 2 seperate bulbs, require two sepeate 2 pin sockets.

Who did your wiring in the first place? If your 220 is the faired version with two seperate bulb for lo/hi it cannot have 3 pin stock socket.

Yes it is a 3 pin socket that exactly fits to the male socket of the HID I bought that looks like this (in the figure/diagram):



My P220 is a DTSi-S version. I think Its wiring is different from the Fi version. I am from the Philippines bro. I am also here in your thread seeking for enhancements for our beloved horses. Most of us P200/220 owners here are looking for the proper HID installation because currently there is no electrician that can understand how to use the stock switches of the P200/220 for HID installation and how the electrical system of the Pulsar works specifically the BCU. I am also here trying to seek for information how the BCU works and what's inside it and if it can be modified..

Sorry for late crashing the party.

Tell me one thing dude, you have a 220 right?

Now what's the STOCK FEMALE PLUG? Is it 2 ping or three pin? Because, from you pic i can see a three pin female socket of 220!

Thank you very much Sajjt for a detailed explanation. I will print this and read again and again until I understand fully. As of now I understand maybe half of it. About the kit I installed. It is working without any glitch before I leave the store where I bought it. Same with its pair. I hope success is the next thing to happen Sajjt. Once this work is a success I we will all be benefited specially to those who are DIY enthusiasts.
I will update you guys again for the results.

Dear Fellow Bikers,

I have been eying on OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER bulb for my Thunderbird since many days.

Yesterday i made a visit to couple of shops here in Bnagalore(JC ROAD) and found the cost of bulbs here.

They claim that the bulb comes in a pack of 2 nos and it costs Rs.1200.00

Finally one shopkeeper agreed to give it as a single piece and charging RS.600/piece.

I seriously do not have an idea about the cost of the bulb and also the outcome of the bulb.

Also let me know if i have to make any alterations in order to use NIGHT BREAKER bulb.

People who are using the same bulb please advise asap.

Nice explanation saj
what's up with the andriod display pic ??

besides, someone please answer my post on the previous page...

Thank you very much Sajjt for a detailed explanation. I will print this and read again and again until I understand fully. As of now I understand maybe half of it. About the kit I installed. It is working without any glitch before I leave the store where I bought it. Same with its pair. I hope success is the next thing to happen Sajjt. Once this work is a success I we will all be benefited specially to those who are DIY enthusiasts.
I will update you guys again for the results.

Blue and White wires on the harness are for relay triggers. Ballast is getting power from the relays and the power is routed from the battery as per the harness which is not permitted on ur bike.

BCU is just checking the current flow every now and then, if anything seems to be abnormal it assumes that either shorting or blown bulb. Stock switches are magnetic contacts which is acting as sensors every contact its alerting the BCU that a connection is trying to establish and the BCU triggers the relay attached to the load. This is what I learned so far. Experts pls conmment.

Polarity of the diodes are correct here am suggesting 2 diodes for a addnl safety to the BCU, if one diode is used and by chance the diode conks off there will be reverse current and may damage the BCU and hence the 2 diode installed.

Projector shield solenoid hardly takes less than 2 watt so 1A diode is more than enough. 6A is for powering the ballast. If you found that the 6A diode is heating up excessively, then replace with higher capacity ones or add another one in parallel. This depends on ur ballast power drawing rating.

U should not disconnect the wires from the male socket, just connect everything as it is, including the stock electricals. If u disconnect any of the wires then relay in the harness wont switch and hence there wont be any supply to the ballast.

This is why I asked u about testing the kit. Have u done it? If not do it before any mods. Being its not a direct snap on mod it should be tested before proceeding else, we may mess up the whole thing without knowing that the kit is faulty.

So test the kit first:

Disconnect the HID kit fully from the bike, Connect the red wire to the battery +ve, black to the -ve, then take a wire from the batt +ve and connect to the HID male adapter white wire. The HID should work on low beam, take another +ve wire and touch the blue wire, now the high beam solenoid will get activated and thus high beam.

If everything is ok then proceed with the mod:

Cut the blue wire on the HID adapter leaving enough length for joining. Take the blue wire on harness end and connect the 6A diode and 1 A diode in series (as per diag) and the end of the 1A diode to the blue wire other end. Take a tapping from between the diodes and connect it to the white wire on the HID male adapter where u've to connect the red (supply +ve) wire too. Connect the black supply wire to ground properly. U r done.

Hope this helps.

The flickering of HID can be more of a RELAY issue too, not just the BCU issue, but that high beam/ low beam swap thingy is definitely the BCU, so i think you should rather do this....

instead of taping anything else from anywhere, why don't you keep all the connections stock, and plonk relays after the BCU, i.e 1 relay after the high beam wire, 1 relay after the low beam wire ????
as the primary source is still the battery, the BCU will never have to go through heavy load !!
the BCU will only trigger the current, and all the load will be taken from the battery, hence it might work.

When we use 100w of halos onto our stock switches, don't we do the same ?
as our stock switches are incapable of handling that amount of current.

it would make things much easier i believe.

@ pavan

I never asked anybody to run the HID without the relay....