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Basic of Projectors, HID and their Installation
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the flickering might also be because of a faulty relay....
did you check the relay....
if on switching the HID if the realy is making a buzzing sound it is almost certain that the relay is faulty check that out...
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even i don't understand that sajjt.
with relays control box and everything, why is this flickering happening, i guess a relay to that main RH side wire should do the job.
@ okleyT
yes a horn relay is SPST and should work.
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If the stock switch is drawing excess current than the stock rating, BCU will trigger treating as a short circuit. Have you guys got a control box along with the HID kit which is having a relay and avoid this false triping?.
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Hey even I am trying to find out which wire it is. I have a spare RH switch set lying around, so I powered the pink wire and ground, the switch backlight glows. The thing is the magnetic switches are a huge pain in the ass.
Try swapping the BCU with someone else's BCU and check. This happens with me sometimes. I switch the HID ON and it just glows for a flash and shuts down, then after 2 or 3 seconds, lights up on its own.This is a BCU issue in my bike.
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No, I am not from India. I mentioned about Veeral's kit because I read this thread from the start to know the whole story and what is being discussed here. And when I saw that my case is somewhat similar with Veeral I mentioned him as my example.Originally posted by NANOtechnology View PostHey I didn't know you were from Philippines.
I thought you are from mumbai, as you particularly mentioned Veeral's kit, i thought you guys must have met.
in case of p220 S surely its full DC, and bypass isn't necessary.
a relay should work, i believe your high beam as well as low beam wire would not need a relay, just the main headlamp ON switch might, the possibility is that the relay is present before the BCU, so get one attached after the BCU too, to the wire which leads to the the main headlamp from your RH side switch.
tap the wire from there and plonk a relay in between, you'll be happy.
find any mech and ask him to do so, its a very easy job.
Sadly I can't find a mech or an automotive electrician that is familiar with magnetic switches that Pulsar 220 has.. This site is my last resort to solve my issue since Pulsar is from India and I assume that Pulsar users in your country is very much familiar with Pulsar's electrical system.
Going back to our topic, I can't find what wire color is used for the RH switch of the headlight. I tapped the supply at the pink wire which also supplies a current but I am not sure to what device. If I tap on the red wire which powers the park lights the HID won't light. Only on the pink wire it turns on. I also tried the brown one but the HID wont turn off.
Now, maybe I will stick to my stock config but I will try to put a relay before I tap to the pink wire. May I know what type or spec of the relay I should use? Will the horn relay work?
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Hey I didn't know you were from Philippines.Originally posted by okLeyT View PostI think the P220 DTSi-S is already full DC. I didn't change my RR and I also didn't rewind my coil. By the way, to give more side info, I am from the Philippines. Pulsar 220 DTSi-S here is distributed by Kawasaki. Going back to our topic, as I have said I didn't change my rr nor rewind my coil. I just plugged-in the projector kit and used a separate switch for the HID to make it work. I think the Pulsar 220 version here is already full DC because I am using my HID for about a month and everything is fine. The battery didn't show any signs of getting low. I think the Pulsar 200 is the one that has AC/DC wiring.
So how can I bypass the BCU? where should I get a supply for the bulb instead of using the stock wire of the halogen bulb? And I'v read one post of Sajjt that we must use a relay (a separate one aside from the one included in the HID Kits) when tapping a supply for the bulb... Can you please elaborate that for me? And oh, I don't have knowledge about circuits...I understand very little just as simple as positive and negative only....
Thanks Nano!!
I thought you are from mumbai, as you particularly mentioned Veeral's kit, i thought you guys must have met.
in case of p220 S surely its full DC, and bypass isn't necessary.
a relay should work, i believe your high beam as well as low beam wire would not need a relay, just the main headlamp ON switch might, the possibility is that the relay is present before the BCU, so get one attached after the BCU too, to the wire which leads to the the main headlamp from your RH side switch.
tap the wire from there and plonk a relay in between, you'll be happy.
find any mech and ask him to do so, its a very easy job.
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You need to check your BCU and the RH switches. This thing happened with me too on my 180UG3. I too have a bixenon.HIDs generally tend to flicker/blink when the battery is low. I feel its an issue with your charging system than the BCU or the switches.
I suggest you start with checking the charging current.
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I think the P220 DTSi-S is already full DC. I didn't change my RR and I also didn't rewind my coil. By the way, to give more side info, I am from the Philippines. Pulsar 220 DTSi-S here is distributed by Kawasaki. Going back to our topic, as I have said I didn't change my rr nor rewind my coil. I just plugged-in the projector kit and used a separate switch for the HID to make it work. I think the Pulsar 220 version here is already full DC because I am using my HID for about a month and everything is fine. The battery didn't show any signs of getting low. I think the Pulsar 200 is the one that has AC/DC wiring.Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post@ okleyT
Your Right, Hid blinks or flickers while starting when enough current isn't reaching the ballast.
I tried to switch ON a hid bulb with a 2.5 amp battery, and after holding the throttle for a while, all that happened was, it started blinking/flickering, but didn't start.
you will need to bypass the BCU which all other xBHP pulsar guys (who have converted to DC) have done.
But it should supply 4 amps if the battery is nicely charged, otherwise you can plonk a separate switch too if you like, just for the headlamp.
Did you convert your bike to Full DC after getting the coil rewinded and installing ape RR ?
So how can I bypass the BCU? where should I get a supply for the bulb instead of using the stock wire of the halogen bulb? And I'v read one post of Sajjt that we must use a relay (a separate one aside from the one included in the HID Kits) when tapping a supply for the bulb... Can you please elaborate that for me? And oh, I don't have knowledge about circuits...I understand very little just as simple as positive and negative only....
Thanks Nano!!
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@ okleyT
Your Right, Hid blinks or flickers while starting when enough current isn't reaching the ballast.
I tried to switch ON a hid bulb with a 2.5 amp battery, and after holding the throttle for a while, all that happened was, it started blinking/flickering, but didn't start.
you will need to bypass the BCU which all other xBHP pulsar guys (who have converted to DC) have done.
But it should supply 4 amps if the battery is nicely charged, otherwise you can plonk a separate switch too if you like, just for the headlamp.
Did you convert your bike to Full DC after getting the coil rewinded and installing ape RR ?
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Thanks for the correction about Veeral's kit...Originally posted by NANOtechnology View PostFirstly, Veeral doesn't have a PROJECTOR kit, he just has a BI-Xenon hid kit.
you just need to plug the h4 male socket to the oem h4 headlight socket, and you should be done.
if in case you have been given just the 2 wires, check using the battery as which wire is high beam and which is low beam, connect them to the necessary wire, but you will have to cut your headlamp socket to do so.
you should be able to use stock switches for running it, i am using stock switches and running 2 x Hids...
a knowledgeable mech will be able to do this for you.
i hope this helps.
The socket has 3 wires. Brown (for supply), Blue (for Hi-Beam), and White (for Low Beam). When I was using the stock socket the HID just blinks. But if I put back the stock halogen bulb it doesn't blink. This made me think that the BCU makes the HID blink. Maybe the BCU has a feature of cutting the supply to the bulb when it hits a trigger. A trigger that can be an ammeter or voltmeter or anything that measures current so that If there is a sudden electrical fluctuation the electrical system will not get busted.
I want to bypass the supply from the BCU but I can't find what wire color is it. The switches are magnetic so there is also no way of connecting a new line directly for the bulb.
Hope you can help me through this... I also hope Sajjt would read this because he is using a Pulsar and he must be familiar with its electrical system....
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Firstly, Veeral doesn't have a PROJECTOR kit, he just has a BI-Xenon hid kit.Originally posted by okLeyT View PostGuys I got a problem with my P220 DTSi-S. I installed a projector. Everything works fine except that I wasn't able to use the stock LH & RH headlight switches for my HID. How or what should I do to make it work? I used a separate switch for the HID to work.
What wire color I should tap for the supply, hi & low wires. I think Veeral and I got the same kind of projector kit. The wires that came from the projector/hid that has a female headlight socket are Brown (I think this is the supply), White (maybe used for Hi-beam) and Blue (maybe for the Low Beam).
Please help guys...
you just need to plug the h4 male socket to the oem h4 headlight socket, and you should be done.
if in case you have been given just the 2 wires, check using the battery as which wire is high beam and which is low beam, connect them to the necessary wire, but you will have to cut your headlamp socket to do so.
you should be able to use stock switches for running it, i am using stock switches and running 2 x Hids...
a knowledgeable mech will be able to do this for you.
i hope this helps.
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Hey Congratz. @ worrisomebear Pls Let Me know from where in mumbai did u get the HID and price also. And whether u had used projector or not.
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