please suggest me a mineral oil or a semi-synthetic one.... at 20w50, or does semisynthetic like synthetic does not come in this grade. Since i have longer rides i cannot compromise on heating grade '50'. So i think that synthetics wont fit my use...
Which would be the best one... please tell me the brand and price too.

MOTUL

ok...
Motul 3000 4T

1st small step

1

Changed to stock filter (INR 650) (and planning to sell the K&N, have placed an ad here)

BIKE

p180 ug3 stock + upsized jet (125)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Difference observed leaving K&N

Lost the kick in acceleration
+
<EDIT OF PREVIOUS POST>
I had mentioned that K&N gave me an increase in 8kmph, sorry guyz, that was incorrect i still observe the same increase.

The CULPRIT was my my previous tyres EUROGRIP (100/90),
now when i upsized to MICHELIN SIRAC 120/90 (with no difference in sprocketing) i observe this difference, and wonderful on&off-road grip

FEEDBACK OF EUROGRIP TYRE

> irreilable grip on on-road, off- road, and wet surfaces
> decrease in top speed
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Upcoming Mod: 220F camshaft....

doubt > when enquired in spares, they quoted it to be around INR 800.
can anyone please post a picture of the same.
What all does come with the purchase?
Is it a shaft with one end having a cam?
A service advisor and a local mechanic suggested and mentioned it to be same on every pulsars, and that apart from the absence of decompressor or kicker no improvement in performance can be visible.

I suppose p180ug4 comes with the same 220F camshaft, the absence of kicker in these made this thought. and this ug4 scores 70 at 5000 rpm where my bike scores 68

But my mind says, i will see a boost, but the possibility i doubt is, the improvement gained by our friends who have done this mod might have done this along with the another mod say a K&N, so that might have made them feel the difference with the so many misunderstood bargainings going on about K&N.

Please shed some light...

Pavanchirmade has did his mod and he observed a gain and got 110kmph on 4th gear at 7000 or 8000 rpm if remember right, i hav given him a 'vm' n a 'pm'
and i think he is not using K&N, but not sure of any other mods. i think he is not active these days... hadnt received any replies yet...

well.....pavanchirmade is still sctive....

regarding 220 cam........i have not done the mod myself......but i discussed it with fellow riders...........220 cam is a longer duration cam, which means it will open intake and/or exhaust valve for a longer duration.......this should theoritically increase your output.....don't know practically what will happen.....and there is no decompressor in 220 cam so you will not be able to use your kick start option.

IF YOU ARE SERIOUS ABOUT THE PERFORMANCE INCREASE YOU WANT.........DISCUSS IT WITH JOEL......HE IS THE BEST MAN HERE.........

From whatever feedback posted here the P220F cam is a long duration cam,and not a high lift cam...so the valves will not hit the piston and cause problem. Except for P 220 the stroke length of pulsars from 150 up are all the same......and Pavan had assured elsewhere that the P220F cam is a straight fit on Pulsars from UG2 onwards..I am unable to find the specific post so I am unsure of the UG version....
The Long duration Cam allows more time for the inlet and exhaust to take place..hence improvement.
Pavan did this Cam mod first here and hence is a better person to give accurate opinion on facts...I do not have a pulsar or modified it in this way to give a positive reply.

Ok fellas...you guys missed me a lot I guess

The 220F cam is a long duration cam.

Changing the cam affects the engine in two ways 1) by changing valve lift and 2) by altering valve overlap and both affect engine breathing. The increase in torque felt in this case is due to better breathing of the engine by altering valve overlap and open time.

The cam is a direct fit on all DTS-I models. You cannot use a kick starter after installing this cam and you will need to upjet after you install this camshaft as the bike runs lean after the cam installation.


@ARNadal: The 110km/h figure was because of taller sprocketting. I had got the camshaft mod with stock jets before any other mod and hence I can safely say that the camshaft mod will help.The RPM needle goes berserk after 4k RPM. The bike was running lean and so i though I will re jet. But then I thought, if I am opening up the carb to upjet then why not go for the K&N with bigger jets!!!
So that came next. And finally the sprockets. Mind you the sprockets were a very bad decision as the 5th gear is too tall and RPM doesn't rise as it used to rise with stock sprockets. So the speeds climb very slowly after 110km/h. This 110km/h is on the 4th gear at redline. When I shift to the 5th, the engine relaxes and becomes lazy [kinda like me ] and the speeds rise very slowly.

The 180UG4 is also tall in terms of the sprockets. The UG3 is way too torquey as it is geared short! Couple the stock UG3 with a larger jet and the 220F cam and your bike will be so much fun! At such a low cost. 480 for the cam, 10 bucks for the jet!

The UG4 comes preinstalled with the revised cam. The cam is hence same in the 220F as well as the 180UG4. The peak power and the torque figures of the 180UG4 stock are higher than the 180UG3 because of the new cam.

Cost of the CAMSHAFT: Rs480/-
CAMSHAFT Part details:
CAMSHAFT 220F Part number: DJ 101373


this exact info was posted in the thread

I have read some posts from the thread and this is exactly my story repeated here.

I too have a P180 UG3, the same problem that it didn't cross 104 kmph @ 8~krpm when it was stock. In fact, I too opened a thread for it in help section.
Exactly, like ARNandal said, I also couldn't get the problem solved through B.A.S.S.

I traced the problem to a cracks on silencer tip (rusting, etc.) and got it welded. Then, things improved a bit, and it reached 111 kmph, noticeably smoother & faster.

So, ARNandal, tell me, is your silencer broken from the tip end? If yes, its time to get it welded. Hide all the holes and cracks. Also, if it leaks glasswool from inside the silencer, (they look like hairs) then don't remove them, let them be as it is.

Now, after 15k on odo, I have a cloth mask covered K&N with 125 sized jet from Karizma, running slightly rich. I'll get its CO2 adjusted. Its performing good enough, although I couldn't test the top end, but the initial feedback's good.


One more thing- yes, the 120/90 tyre will overgear, compared to 110/80. The tyre profile height has gone up from 88mm to 108mm. So, more speed at less revs is natural.

I'll read the thread properly though, in the meantime. I read only page 1 and 8 upto now.

thanks psr, prince....

@ pavan: ya missed your presence thank you so much.... that was really good info.

@samrath... i didnt notice any will check once more and update...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Next Step:

A visit to the service centre...
for tappet adjustments, and tuning after that on 125 main jet..
+
am facing overheating issues... can shell helix oil be the only cause, itz excessive heating, and am running rich (3 turns from full tight with 125 and stock filter) will definitely be rich.

then will check the performance figures and install the camshaft....

There's no need to adjust the tappets as your Cam swap will need to alter them again.

for now, the heating will be because of the oil.

Don't waste time and money going to B.A.S.S again and again, just find a very nice lathe guy, a good mechanic, buy BORE KIT and get it installed with head enlargement, adding things later on will follow with time (like cam), and are much easier to do too.

always remember my friend, there's NO REPLACEMENT of DISPLACEMENT....

Golden words!

@ NCG:
I think to do the camshaft mod first, by that time i should find a reliable mechanic for the p200 job. coz am getting varied and misconfident replies and ideas..
some say to buy the head too n shaving it wont do the job, some say to go for the crankshaft too, some the gudgeon pin alone would do, some say it wouldnt just fit, some say why not to go for a 220 so..

we cannot depend on these mechanics... i cannot risk my bike to them for an experience...

So i thought i would give some more time for finding the right mechanic...and by the time i would do the camshaft mod and enjoy the difference. so that i wont be wasting time either and will be able to specifically know what mods can bring what level of performance...

Buddy the tappet settings would no longer be on the stock figures right !!?, please tell me how to adjust it for our cam mod (the stock figures and the new figures)
and i think valve clearances wouldnt need adjustments, since it is based on the cylinder capacity, right !!? (with Intake 0.05 and Exhaust 0.1, is stock)
Please bare with my ignorance..

I have set the tappets on stock clearances.
For the 200 mod, Ganesh a.k.a. Undefineme3 is the person to ask. He knows pulsar engines inside out.

@ NCG: No cracks or hairs found.... but a small hole in the outer shell of the exhaust...