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**NANOtechnology** · 03-09-2011, 02:12 AM

@ KB100

I've been running the stock head and 2 gaskets under the bore previously (with a 5.5mm increase in bore), there was an engine knocking issue which i had even after that, hence recently i got my head enlarged and also got valve seat grinned.

The reason why i gave up the 2 gasket plan (which did settle me down with my engine stalling problem) was because i was not only having knocking issue, but these 2 gaskets were leaking oil from below the block.

all thanks to psr to guide me into the 2 gasket funda.
It helped me bring the bike back to life.

**psr** · 03-09-2011, 10:31 AM

Originally posted by ARNandal View Post

thanks a lot

psr kb100....

and the great nano cool...(

)

that was a great... all doubts solved... now am confident of going for one...
really informative...

u guys were very very much helpful... n psr's image.....

thanks a lot...... a lot..

Arnie if you have good knowledge of the basics ,anything is easy..it only needs an effort....so the bottom line is Go for the mods..ONLY if you had understood the basics...It is easy to tell you to do things..but ultimately,remember it is you who is going to make it happen.
Best of LUCK..

**kb100** · 03-09-2011, 11:06 AM

If you are using local mechs then try and get it done within a day DO NOT let them delay it as it is one of the common tricks employed by the mechs to fleece you ,first get all the necessary parts like the bore kit, the packing kit ,new spark plugs (ngk cr9e) etc if you are adding an extra base gasket then a-pply a thin layer of anabond/ threebond paste b/w the gaskets . stay with the mech during the whole process ,if you need it done to any standards ,....
and all the best for the mod

**ARNandal** · 03-09-2011, 12:37 PM

psr... kb100...
thanks a lot guys, once more....
will update you with the mods...
my first step would be changing the camshaft...
so would know how much each one can have the effect.
Take care
(You both have a pm)

**kb100** · 03-09-2011, 04:45 PM

Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post

@ KB100

I've been running the stock head and 2 gaskets under the bore previously (with a 5.5mm increase in bore), there was an engine knocking issue which i had even after that, hence recently i got my head enlarged and also got valve seat grinned.

The reason why i gave up the 2 gasket plan (which did settle me down with my engine stalling problem) was because i was not only having knocking issue, but these 2 gaskets were leaking oil from below the block.

all thanks to psr to guide me into the 2 gasket funda.
It helped me bring the bike back to life.

how much did you machine off from the head (as in depth)
while using mote than one gasket it is good to have them covered in a layer of threebond paste to provide a good seal
Its an honor to have someone like psr sir to be among us to guide and advice us

**psr** · 03-09-2011, 05:00 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

how much did you machine off from the head (as in depth)
while using mote than one gasket it is good to have them covered in a layer of threebond paste to provide a good seal
Its an honor to have someone like psr sir to be among us to guide and advice us

KB100 thanks for the kind words. I had already clarified that I am a learner like everyone else here,and give to the forums to learn more from it.Nano had fitted a stock RTR180 Bore with piston on to the Fiero engine.RETAINING the original head containing the valves.Fiero is 150cc and RTR180.Hence the top head Valve recess must match the bore,which was not done increasing compression leading to pre-ignition.So 2 gaskets were put in place to reduce this and make the bike driveable..Now he had got the matching done he had removed the gaskets and everything is ok..If you are interested you can read about it on the Owner's exper.,forum Fiero/F2/FX thread from page 80 onwards

**princesirohi** · 03-09-2011, 06:47 PM

i am anxiously following this thread to know the final result......keep us updated at every step.

**NANOtechnology** · 03-09-2011, 09:16 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

how much did you machine off from the head (as in depth)
while using mote than one gasket it is good to have them covered in a layer of threebond paste to provide a good seal
Its an honor to have someone like psr sir to be among us to guide and advice us

Very true indeed.
No one owes to psr more than me, he was the only help i had at that time.

i had used oodles 3 bond to make the 2 gaskets into 1.
But still i had to face oil leak issues.

I've machined off 0.5mm from the head.
Couldn't go deeper as the valve seat was near.

But I've got the sides grinded too (the one's where the valve seat area is absent), its nice and smooth slope all the way matching to the combustion chamber.
Hence the overall decrease in the chamber is more than just 0.5mm dip.

Originally posted by psr View Post

KB100 thanks for the kind words. I had already clarified that I am a learner like everyone else here,and give to the forums to learn more from it.Nano had fitted a stock RTR180 Bore with piston on to the Fiero engine.RETAINING the original head containing the valves.Fiero is 150cc and RTR180.Hence the top head Valve recess must match the bore,which was not done increasing compression leading to pre-ignition.So 2 gaskets were put in place to reduce this and make the bike driveable..Now he had got the matching done he had removed the gaskets and everything is ok..If you are interested you can read about it on the Owner's exper.,forum Fiero/F2/FX thread from page 80 onwards

I had got the valve recesses made before installing my old head on the new block, the very first time itself.
Just didn't match the size of the head.

**ARNandal** · 03-10-2011, 03:12 AM

Buddies... advice needed on two more aspects...

>can a bad clutch lead to overheating of the engine? (with afr on the richer side and engine oil is Shell Helix HX3).
>can the p220's clutch assembly be accomodated in mine. am looking for upgrading it.

when i had a chat with the service advisor of bajaj i remember him saying that clutch can handle these loads when i was mentioning him about the way i ride. And he took it to be a normal ride, and this was supported by another friend of mine.
and the SA also mentioned that longer high speed drives can burn the clutch easily.. even if the clutch ic untouched.... is this right?

Am facing this clutch issue from 600km on the odo... can it be like some idiot might have installed 150's clutch assy in mine (as i have read in some post here, of this issue)

[p180ug3] i was getting 59kmph at 5000 rpm without k&N and 68kmph with it, and 100 near 8000rpm (with and without k&N)

**ARNandal** · 03-10-2011, 03:14 AM

@prince: yes, i will be starting within next 2 days..

**kb100** · 03-10-2011, 07:52 AM

Originally posted by ARNandal View Post

Buddies... advice needed on two more aspects...

>can a bad clutch lead to overheating of the engine? (with afr on the richer side and engine oil is Shell Helix HX3).
>can the p220's clutch assembly be accomodated in mine. am looking for upgrading it.

when i had a chat with the service advisor of bajaj i remember him saying that clutch can handle these loads when i was mentioning him about the way i ride. And he took it to be a normal ride, and this was supported by another friend of mine.
and the SA also mentioned that longer high speed drives can burn the clutch easily.. even if the clutch ic untouched.... is this right?

Am facing this clutch issue from 600km on the odo... can it be like some idiot might have installed 150's clutch assy in mine (as i have read in some post here, of this issue)

[p180ug3] i was getting 59kmph at 5000 rpm without k&N and 68kmph with it, and 100 near 8000rpm (with and without k&N)

afaik shell helix hx3 is designed to be used in cars if you use it in your bike it will lead to clutch slippage switch to castrol active extra 20w50 or valvoline 4t premium 20w50 or at least yamalube of the same specification

Your service advisor is wrong long high speed drives WILL NOT harm the clutch as you dont use clutch during these drives ,you will burn clutches if you are in the habit of riding the clutch or riding for long at half clutch

**psr** · 03-10-2011, 10:10 AM

Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post

I had got the valve recesses made before installing my old head on the new block, the very first time itself.
Just didn't match the size of the head.

What I had meant to say was that the taper machining, ending near the valve recess for the matching of bore and head ,was not done.(like in RTR)..guess ended up meaning different.

**psr** · 03-10-2011, 10:20 AM

Oil

Arnandal shell helix is a very good oil and what you had chosen is meant for the cars. The difference between car and bike oils is as follows.:
1. The heat range....most cars have radiators and liquid cooling to maintain engine temperature within safe 80 to 90 C. Hence the oils used will not experience heat shear..Most of the Bikes are Air cooled, and hence while accelerating the engine oil will undergo severe heat stress.
2. Car oils have Friction Modifiers to make the engine run smoother.In cars clutch is invariably dry and engine sump is wet,and they are Physically separate.In a bike the clutch sits inside the engine and is WET. So the oil SHOULD NOT HAVE FRICTION MODIFIERS.So if you use car's oil in bikes Clutch Slip will occur.

**NANOtechnology** · 03-10-2011, 01:47 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

What I had meant to say was that the taper machining, ending near the valve recess for the matching of bore and head ,was not done.(like in RTR)..guess ended up meaning different.

Too Technical to understand sir.

i want to meet you in person someday

**psr** · 03-10-2011, 03:02 PM

Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post

Too Technical to understand sir.

i want to meet you in person someday

You are young and SANE....Why risk meeting me

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Worried and Fed up upjetting my p180ug3 with K&N Air filter

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