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Electrical Modification on Hero Honda Passion.
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IMO more the number of poles, more the power... because more poles = more no of turns per pole...Originally posted by sandeepcf View PostMy Unicorn contains 8 poles and with stock winding according to the owners manual it produces 125 watts of power which is 125watts/13volts=9.6Amperes.
My ambition contains 12 poles and according to the owners manual it produces 120 watts of power which is 120watts/13volts=9.2Amperes.
Also the size of the poles in CT100 is bigger than Unicorn/Ambition/RTR(because I have seen only these stators
)
I disconnected the lighting wire at the input of RR and now only one wire at input and 1 wire as output to battery and 1 wire for grounding.
I am also worried about the reliability of RR as I have already stated only time will tell.
Hope this may help ...http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...ricals-12.html
I meant to say my 55w headlight glows at full intensity at 2000 RPM.
Your thing, you know it better, I'm outta this thread.
Happy riding
Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.
Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet
Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3
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8.14 ampsOriginally posted by sandeepcf View PostI am uploading the pictures of readings.
.
Directly from RR-> Ac or Dc side ??
If its on DC and If your battery connected then your readings are incorrect.
(Battery is also supplying current)
I am ruling out the possibility of bulbs being on AC bacause u cant measure Ac amps without using a clamp meter.
Please Dont consider that I am proving you wrong,Just helping a fellow Xbhpian and clearing my doubts
Can you post the picture of the coil.Last edited by shoeb2015; 01-01-2012, 06:43 PM.
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So that's the whole deal, any rewinded stator + RR would supply that amount of current when used directly to power a bulb... Try to charge that battery & you'll find that 8.xx to be chopped down to 5.xx... And dude, use proper DMM leads to take measurements, you'll be amazed to see the kind of error which creeps in due to such jugaad measuring leads...Originally posted by sandeepcf View PostI am uploading the pictures of readings.
obviously DC sideDirectly from RR-> Ac or Dc side ??
Battery isn't connected, hence the sky-high readings...Is your battery connected ???If yes,Then your readings are incorrect.(Battery is also sharing the load)
Those are DC amps..If its on Ac, How you are able to measure Ac amps without using a clamp meter ????l
This is what most manufacturers quote, mind you, you'll never get those high power output because of your battery.
What we claim here on XBhp are proper charging currents, that for my case is more than 7A.Last edited by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee; 01-01-2012, 05:27 PM.Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.
Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet
Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3
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Replies in BoldOriginally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View PostAnd dude, use proper DMM leads to take measurements, you'll be amazed to see the kind of error which creeps in due to such jugaad measuring leads...
Not only that juggad leads but that Uni-t DMM gives weird readings.
(Personal experience, That DMM is good for beginners but gives weird Readings in Ammeter mode
)
obviously DC side
Battery isn't connected, hence the sky-high readings...
Those are DC amps..
Yea ,I know that DMM cant measure AC in amps.
This is what most manufacturers quote, mind you, you'll never get those high power output because of your battery.
What we claim here on XBhp are proper charging currents, that for my case is more than 7A.
What we mean here by charging rates is that the readings you get by a DMM or a dedicated ammeter when it is in series to the positive terminal.
(+ve of RR to +ve lead of ammeter/DMM then -ve of DMM to +ve of battery )Last edited by shoeb2015; 01-01-2012, 06:44 PM.
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The leads that are supplied with the DMM are not capable of carrying much current(very thin wire core inside), this has happened while measuring current from my unicorn, hence I am using normal household wires to allow the flow of maximum current to the DMM and hence correct readings will be recorded.And dude, use proper DMM leads to take measurements, you'll be amazed to see the kind of error which creeps in due to such jugaad measuring leads...
when I first got the reading of 8.1Amps I used the battery as load only. May be the battery was not charged to the fullest and it sucked all the 8 amps for charging. Today when I did the same thing I got readings of 3Amps only. hence used the bulbs as the load.Try to charge that battery & you'll find that 8.xx to be chopped down to 5.xx...
Hey I tried this thing on my rewounded Unicorn and I got the maximum intensity at approximately 2200RPM.I meant to say my 55w headlight glows at full intensity at 2000 RPM.
The one mistake I did during the tests is forgetting to measure the load voltage so couldn't exactly measure the wattage produced by the bike using Power in watts = volts * Amperes
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Can you post a snap of the re-wounded Coil ?
Btw Did the copper wire which you used for rewinding had copper inside the enamel ?
I am Asking this because the one which we get in market has aluminium or some other metal with a copper colored enamel.
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What's the confusion ?Abhijeet has a Discover 135!!Originally posted by sandeepcf View PostI didn't get your point. your 55/60w glows at 2000rpm but in my case it glowed to max only after more than 1/2 throttle..which will be easily around 5000+ RPM
Electricals is almost similar to Pulsar Ug 3 except Bcu.Last edited by shoeb2015; 01-01-2012, 07:04 PM.
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Yes the UNI-T DMM i have is not correct , i am also looking for the HCL DMM i have it previously with the complete HCL kit , but got is damagedOriginally posted by shoeb2015 View Postthat Uni-t DMM gives weird readings.
(Personal experience, That DMM is good for beginners but gives weird Readings in Ammeter mode
)
Shoeb you asking him to post rewounded coil picOriginally posted by shoeb2015 View PostCan you post a snap of the re-wounded Coil ?
Btw Did the copper wire which you used for rewinding had copper inside the enamel ?
I am Asking this because the one which we get in market has aluminium or some other metal with a copper colored enamel.
Means he had to open his alternator for just snapping the pics
You want to see the copper wire then i think it also good if he post a pic of any piece of that copper wire if left behind .
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Sorry mate, I've already told you that I forgot to take pictures of the coil.Originally posted by shoeb2015 View PostCan you post a snap of the re-wounded Coil ?
Btw Did the copper wire which you used for rewinding had copper inside the enamel ?
I am Asking this because the one which we get in market has aluminium or some other metal with a copper colored enamel.
If it was a unicorn's coil I would happily drained the oil and removed the coil by myself, but to remove ct100's coil I have to go a mechanic.
Yes the wire is of copper only and it is very tough. I was left with less than a meter of the total 150gms of 19AWG wire. The shop guy said there are 2 qualities and I bought the good one which is priced at Rs.600/kg and the second quality is priced at 450/kg.
My friend's MECO multimeter was damaged so we bought this cheap Rs.120 Uni-T thing.
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I wanted to see the quality of rewinding done on three poles.Originally posted by Above_All View PostYes the UNI-T DMM i have is not correct , i am also looking for the HCL DMM i have it previously with the complete HCL kit , but got is damaged
Can you provide me more details about it ? PM me.
Shoeb you asking him to post rewounded coil pic
Means he had to open his alternator for just snapping the pics
You want to see the copper wire then i think it also good if he post a pic of any piece of that copper wire if left behind .
I dont know how you guys damage DMM'sOriginally posted by sandeepcf View PostSorry mate, I've already told you that I forgot to take pictures of the coil.
If it was a unicorn's coil I would happily drained the oil and removed the coil by myself, but to remove ct100's coil I have to go a mechanic.
Yes the wire is of copper only and it is very tough. I was left with less than a meter of the total 150gms of 19AWG wire. The shop guy said there are 2 qualities and I bought the good one which is priced at Rs.600/kg and the second quality is priced at 450/kg.
My friend's MECO multimeter was damaged so we bought this cheap Rs.120 Uni-T thing.

How can we call the so called copper coil when it actually doesn't contain copper
?
Any info on this abhijeet/Above_All ?
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It so simple drop a plier on itOriginally posted by shoeb2015 View PostI dont know how you guys damage DMM's


Piracy of copperOriginally posted by shoeb2015 View PostHow can we call the so called copper coil when it actually doesn't contain copper
?
Any info on this abhijeet/Above_All ?
But if you search then origional should be found , but question is how you detect it ? as shopkeeper can sell duplicate under origional
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LOL.Originally posted by Above_All View PostIt so simple drop a plier on it
Piracy of copper
But if you search then origional should be found , but question is how you detect it ? as shopkeeper can sell duplicate under origional 
It is Simple,just remove the enamel and the metal used should be exposed .
But I think genuine copper coil would be very expensive.
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