Are you referring to the green wire which is grounded as ground wire ?

yes, din't notice it at 1st... connect the green wire directly to the lighting coil end. and hope you've already cascaded the lighting & battery charging wires..

yesterday I rewinded my friends Bajaj CT 100's stator which looks exactly like the above one. First I was thinking of floating the ground, installing DJ201202 rectifier, connecting all the coils(lighting, charging) and output the entire thing to new RR after getting inspired from this thread.
But... I couldn't understand the centertaps, where to disconnect them etc.
so I simply unwinded all the wire, bought 150gms of 19g winding wire for Rs90, rewinded the three coils upto the brim, discarded the lighting wire from the stator and used the original RR only. Now the stator produces 8+ amperes at full acceleration. Everything went absolutely fine but I have one doubt - Is the original RR smart? I mean will it cutoff the current to the battery if it is fully charged?

yes, once the battery is almost fully charged it'll go into trickle charging mode, at max. 1.xx A would be supplied to the battery. Isn't your RR getting excess hot? Isn't there any loading on your engine? Are the readings correct? I doubt the validity of your readings though, double check.

Same here, I also got inspired by this thread to try this mod on a 100 cc bike.

Your stator is producing 8 amps on rewinding !!
That's great man.
Did you rewind it yourself ?
Post the pictures of the coils,I am waiting eagerly !!!!!

Are you getting 8 amps at battery ?by ussing oem RR ?
Are you on full dc setup i.e is everthing on dc or headlights still in ac ?
AFAIK the original RR cant pump 8 amps.

No need to worry about cut-off if you are still on ac/dc as all the 8 amps wont go to you battery.

@abhijeet
I think the Stator can produce 8amps as he re-winded it up to the brim,
But reading must double checked.

Notice my earlier post -
The pole on Rh side is winded only half the capacity and other pols are not winded up to the brim.

AFAIK stock coil produces 5 amps Max ,so rewinding it to brim and not using center taps can make the coil produce more than 5 amps.(My opinion)

Didn't check for the heat from RR, that would not be a problem because even the yamaha fazers RR gets heated on load. I have made my friend bought Bajaj's RR but did not use it because the Original RR is currently serving the purpose and if anything goes wrong, he can use the bajaj's RR. About the validity of my readings we checked with 2 multimeters and also for cross checking I disconnected the battery and put a load of 35watts bulb and it glowed to max at only 1/3rd of throttle and 55/60 watts bulb glowed to max between 1/2 and 3/4th throttle. As CT 100 doesn't have tachometer I couldn't state the exact RPMs. The current is measured with battery as load which is connected in series with the multimeter and we got 8.1 amps reading at full throttle.

yes I rewinded 2 poles and my friend winded 1 pole, I tell you its very hard on your hands. Yes the original RR is pumping 8 amps. yes the setup is full DC.
even I am amazed by the fact that the original RR is producing 8 amps, but I am not sure about the reliablility, only time will tell. we were so eager to test our work that we forgot to click any photos. now my friend is in hyderabad but his bike is at his home, so can't post any pics of readings now. he will be coming for sankranti and I can post some pics of readings...

forgive me for my ignorance but many members have used 7 poles & 17 AWG to pump out 8~10A so its really hard for me to digest that 3 poles & 17 AWG generated 8A, moreover the stock RR has 2 separate circuits 1. RR for charging & 2. regulator for lighting.
so, it may not be able to withstand 8A for regular use (since logic suggests it might not contain high power components)
I maybe wrong though... but I'd suggest a double check on the readings..
Happy biking

all RR's produce heat but what matters is how hot it gets... is it within safe limits?

I seriously suspect your readings now, because my custom RR pumps out around 8A & a 35W bulb glows to its max. even at idling, a 55/60w is balanced as low as 1800 rpm & glows at insane brightness above 2000 RPM... I don't mean to prove you wrong but plz do double check.

My Unicorn contains 8 poles and with stock winding according to the owners manual it produces 125 watts of power which is 125watts/13volts=9.6Amperes.
My ambition contains 12 poles and according to the owners manual it produces 120 watts of power which is 120watts/13volts=9.2Amperes.
Also the size of the poles in CT100 is bigger than Unicorn/Ambition/RTR(because I have seen only these stators )
I disconnected the lighting wire at the input of RR and now only one wire at input and 1 wire as output to battery and 1 wire for grounding.
I am also worried about the reliability of RR as I have already stated only time will tell.
Hope this may help ...http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...ricals-12.html

I didn't get your point. your 55/60w glows at 2000rpm but in my case it glowed to max only after more than 1/2 throttle..which will be easily around 5000+ RPM

Reliability is a major concern.
So,I dont think even Dj201202 can pump more than 5amps so its waste upgrading to it.
You are only left with ape RR if you want rock-solid a RR.

The original RR was meant to split the current into ac and dc so even if we consider that it can pump 8 amps DC even though its actually not meant to pump 8 amps DC,
it will get hot in no-time as a result Rectifier- regulator fails.
If diodes fail not much problem as you have to replace only the RR but if Regulator fails you risk blowing up your entire wiring and electricals due to over-voltatge.

Replace your RR to a higher current rating first !! say Ape RR

Guys...I have just talked to my friend and he said that I can collect his bike from his house tomorrow evening. So let me take pictures of the readings and also test the heat from the Original RR and also check the Pulsars RR(spare) and APE RR(which is in my Unicorn). I will post the pictures in the new year(Jan 1st)

@ shoeb2015 your passion+ coil won't be changed by someone as i remember someone has done ac to dc conversion on passion+ & the lightning coil photo he posted is similar , it would be in Universal AC to DC conversion thread as i remember , but sorry can't say exact page number .

@ sandeepcf i think the stock rr of small bikes is good as initially i used only 7 switches for switching in between ac to dc & connected headlight wire to pure DC from key switch , so if my switching is either in ac or dc but headlight is always in dc , i found no battery draining .

but on next day found that i also have to switch headlight from dc to ac while on ac so i added extra switch making total 8 switches .

So might be stock rr is powerful but i can't say about current reading as my UNI-T digital multimeter won't show current .

If your Digital Multi meter has a fuse check it out,
it usually blows out if you check the amps for more than 10secs !!!l
Mine was unfused and became hot like a filament

Yes it has a fuse , but its ok , other functions of multimeter are working fine except current .