Which RR unit did he use? And one thing I forgot, Uni has a single coil for AC as well as DC, while other bikes have 2 coils. So, that coil can be made to DC to power that battery as well as h/l. What did he do?

I didnt get that Abhi, "The less amps diode is not for healthy charging. It is to save cost as well as provide adequate charging"

Adequate charging means something with the lower amps diodes? Is it the healthy charging right? And will it make much diff in the cost of diodes? for our retail price for 6A diode will be 2-3 where as 1A diode is Rs 1. Total 4 diodes, diff is Rs 2 and max street purchase price is Rs 8 for an RR. These guys will be buying in lots and it will be in modules I think to get the benefit of space and cost. so what will be the max diff for an RR?

I've done the rewinding with stock RR for the past 2years without any issues and I've seen many posts that RR should be replaced else, it will smoke, nothing happened. I think there will be more to vouch this.

Even that is sufficient cost saving dude! The 2A diode is enough for the std bike. A 6A diode would have provided for 2 louder horns or a better h/l. But they wont do that.

Its a custom RR Unit, i had told u once long time back. Unfortunately that guy who installed on his bike has shifted place n not getting him.

He is running on AC headlight, just like stock.

Its not custom made actually, most of the shops use nippon rr unit or shogun's RR unit, its just a gimmick they creat that its custom made.

Ask your friend do drop in ruby electricals and show the RR, they will source it for him.

Shreeni, then u've still hope. Why dont u call up/drop in Ruby electricals, I've heard this name in other forums too. I think they can guide u well.

I still belive that there is a life saving tip in current restriction rather than the peanut share of cost saving. For a pair of horns, 2.5AH batt will be sufficient as I used for years. So that type of mean charging is something to do with the batt life span. Abhi u said once, car alt is only 100W, in that case there is a lead towards this charging rate? Do u know whatz the charging rate in a car batt? Not checked as yet.

In any car alternator gives minimum 30A and upto 300A. And it does not harm the battery. Search around in the net dude. It is voltage that kills a battery.

RUBY guy himself says the one he uses is a custom RR

And in my friends case, his charging rate is untouched as he is running on AC. So that won't be helpful to me. Anyway let me see if i can source a APE RR Unit this weekend.

This is the real mess, these guys thinks that its something like the nuclear secret. Nobody is revealing anything. How much he charges for this so called Custom RR? If its morethan the our APE RR, go for it after checking the current rate, else, u've a tried and tested RR now. Go for junky hunt.

Have anyone tried the coil rewinding for a higher watt bulb without the RR change? I still dont have trust in these guys, they want to push up the sales vol just by adding the components one by one.

Abhi, I just got this tip on batt charging.

Battery Charging - Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't the battery sulfates and that affects performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact an engine starting battery on average has only about 10 deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply discharged. This type of charging is called 3 step regulated charging. Please note that only special smart chargers using computer technology can perform 3 step charging techniques. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores and Wal-Marts. The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some Gel Cell and AGM batteries may require special settings or chargers.

• Batteries sit too long between charges. As little as 24 hours in hot weather and several days in cooler weather.
• Battery is stored without some type of energy input.
• "Deep cycling" an engine starting battery. Remember these batteries can't stand deep discharge.
• Undercharging of a battery to only 90% of capacity will allow sulfation of the battery using the 10% of battery chemistry not reactivated by the incompleted charging cycle.
• Heat of 100 plus F., increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left sitting 24 hours a day at 110 degrees F for 30 days would most likely not start an engine.
• Low electrolyte level - battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate.
• Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good. See the section on battery charging.

I think this should be the reason for the mean charging in vehicles

Writeup courtsey: Battery Tutorial | BatteryStuff.com

So you see its all about voltage. Keep it at 13.4 more or less and you are set. I have come across that web page before. Very informative!

RUBY Guy charges 950rs which includes Rewind + Custom RR Unit.
This custom RR will NOT help in increasing charging rate of the battery.
So it doesn't make sense putting that so called custom RR if you want to run the bike on DC.

Still am not clear about volts alone is the factor. Ofcourse, the voltage should be around 13-14.5 else, it wont charge or damage the cells. But our point is the charging Amps rate. That should be maintained in a certain range too. Otherwise, they wont specify that float charging are normally around 1A? Just read this once again.

Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity.

So, is it a healthy charging rate right? I couldnt come to a conclusion, as I doubt, over charging rate can damage the batt.

How much for the rewinding alone? Cant he support for the DC conversion? Do the coil rewinding first and anyway u made up ur mind to change the RR then try without changing it and see if any diff.

And get ready for the junk yard hunt. Its a straight fit for Uni, not like Pulsar for identifying the light and batt coils.