He knows u'll fry the whole thing in months

Sajan/Abhi

Hey please tell me which wire i have to remove the grounding from coil !!!

Should I remove coil still further to proceed ?? The alenkey nuts are not opening

Please reply soon !!!

From the pic, seems its the white wire is grounded so unground it. See the attached pic



Check once again before ungrounding, which coil is directly soldered to the stator core. Otherwise isolate one wire from the coil and check for the grounding with the cover, easy.

U can straight away de solder the ground from now. Man , u've got enough space to rewind 8 poles with lot of space left around. Pulsar's got only 4 poles for lighting and the other 3 is for batt charging, but from that 4 poles, am getting a decent 130W. So u should get a min of 160W+ hopefully. Might get affected the engine perfornance as well. So be judicious in that...

As per the talk we had, I will sure check the wiring for continuity and get back.

Regarding rewinding, i will check with the one who does the job.
I may go with 100/130w instead of HID, cheaper solution

For halogens, u dont need to convert it to DC, instead, just rewind the coil, thtz it.

Yup i agree but I am used to ride with flicker less light

I doubt the batt capability in supporting 100/130W for longer rides. What was the backup time u used to get from the old setup for a 55W?

I used to get 4-5hours on stock wiring. Today I ve put APE RR, got to check.

Uni does not have ignition coil? Does it use TCI ign instead of CDI ign?

Regarding the wire, check the white wire for ground. If it is grounded, remove it.

Help with DC Conversion for HID High(xenon)/Low(halogen) for yamaha fazer'06

hi everyone. i just bought a new HID kit for my fazer'06. its the chinese one, 8000k with High (xenon) and Low (halogen).

I already spoke to Shreeni0403 regarding the same through PM

I understand that ill have to convert my headlight from AC -> DC. About the conversion, the headlight has to be routed through the ignition key so that the lights can be turned on only after the key has been inserted.

Im confused regarding the relays. Where do i get the two relays required for the high and low beam from ? What will the rating be ? Sorry I havent used relays ever, and I have no idea regarding this. I understand that this is meant for the protection self starter and the switchgear.

Also I will have to route the current coming from the coil to the battery for the charging, I have understood the circuit for the rectifier and will design it bymyself. I had confusion about the housing for the rectifier circuit and the placement of the heatsink. Do u need to connect any wiring to the heatsink ?
Is there any readymade rectifier which can be used ?

I will get the wiring diagram for my bike from the showroom soon.

Earlier in the thread there was discussion regarding the use of a single diode instead of the whole rectifier setup. What is conclusion to this ?

^^ Relays are available in car accessories shops. Just tell them that you need 100/90W bulb relay.

About the rest, the wiring diagram would help us to give specific answers.

ps - This is the 125cc Fazer, right?

Its the old Fazer which Yamaha launched, not the new.
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Abhi - Reg my coil.

I was unable to figure out which wire to remove in coil to make the infinite resistance between coil and body !!!

That white wire is not grounded anywhere. In Unicorn its the Green wire which is being grounded.

I tested using multimeter for connectivity but it shows connectivity everywhere !!! White - Ground, Green - Ground

I was puzzled totally so fixed back the Coil without hampering any wire. And ve put APE RR unit.

With stock RR i used to get no charge/discharge state @4500rpm which I am getting now at 3500rpm which is still not sufficient.

Next weekend I will do the coil rewinding stuff, if I tell the guys in Ruby to remove Ground, will they be able to do it ??

FYI - There is 1 small thing in image connected at top, that is ignition pulse generator.

OT - Did u change your number ?? I tried calling u yesterday and it said switched off !! PM me ur new nmbr if changed.

Dude, your coil looks very meaty. I am sure you don't need rewinding. Put that on hold for now.

Do one thing, remove the coil from the casing. (If you can not, ask a mech to do it) Now take macro images of every section of the coil in HQ. We need to find out where each of those wires goes. Only then, I can suggest you something. I have never seen Uni coil in real life, hence the difficulties! All the wires can never be grounded. Our task is to get 2 wires from the coil without any ground.

Atleast post a HQ pic. You can mail me. And leave out the trigger coil. We dont need to fiddle with that.

And I am not at home nowadays. Been traveling. Hence no cell number. Mail me with your pic and come online in Gtalk. We can take it from there. I am free tonight.

Yeah its the old 125 cc fazer. Ive installed the gladiator fairing and headlamp. thanks for the info. Im out of station at the moment, will be uploading the wiring diagram once im back... Till then ive gotta stare at the box of the HID kit ive got .. .

Shree, Abhi is right, not all the wire cant be grounded, only one wire will be grounded. U r getting the continuity in all the two because one of the wire was grounded. I still suggest u to remove one wire connection from the coil and check for the continuity if its still there, put it back and try the other wire. One of these wires are grounded anyway. Not a big puzzle at all. After all u've got only 2 wires to check the grounding. As u said over phone, what about the grounding outside the coil cover; connecting sockets? U dont need that in anyway as u r connected to the new RR.

Hows the performance with the new RR? What about the backup time? I still wonder to know that u were getting 4-5 hrs from the stock setup from batt. Then whats the need of this man?

With stock RR i used to get no charge/discharge state @4500rpm which I am getting now at 3500rpm which is still not sufficient.

I didnt get this part, u mean ur amps meter reading? 4.5K is almost top gear rpm near 60kph in normal condition right? U r not getting any charging @ that rpm? Am getting the optimum charging at that rpm around 8A, beyond that no further change.

Why dont u go for a digital mm man? Its less than 100 bucks which is morethan enough for our mods. Once its burned go for another without much damage to the pocket. U can measure the amps in that precisely. Only thing is u need to change the probe wires with a higher guage or reading the amps morethan 4A probe wires will melt.

Abhi, one thing we should accept that the quality is no where in Bajaj compared to Uni, I just love the coil winding finish in Uni where in Pulsar its just looks like an ameature work.