Oh Cmon dude, there should not be any hurt feelings in that. Yes u r right,using caps is considered as shouting in forums which could've avoided, may be not intentional as we all here not to provoke anyone but to help, so Dr. too. I think u took it in the right spirit.

Have u checked with MM the lighting power to confirm its DC?

Weird readings can be MM is faulty/wrong selection of switch/low batt, even I too got crazy at times. Pls check that too.

That is what my picture indicates. A Multimeter can be faulty but a diode cannot be.
My pictures also indicate the selection of modes correctly in MM

@sandeepcf
'By Phase if you mean AC and DC you are wrong. These are types of current and not phases. Phases exist in AC only. And RR is not taking both types of current from the coil. DC cannot be produced from a stator. Infact all the current produced from generators/alternators is AC. How did you calculate the 3.5A?'

ans-my bad,i thought uni is having a dual phase coil,but itss actually having a single phase coil.
how i calculated?just measured the ampere in ac channel after regulation.

'Unicorn produces 125watts(with grounded coil) and Ambition produces 120watts(ground removed and connected to RR. This is its stock setup)'
ans-wow!a coil with stock 125 watts.i will say one thing.if it is like anything near,why our master blaster shree wasnt able to use a 55/60 bulb+hid.it should be accomodated if its 125 watts correct?in reality ,its not even close.even apache claims that its having a very high output stator(more then 110 watt),but in reality it cant even pull a 55/60 halogen bulb in ac mode.these numbers are not always reallife true.

'Cmon man Let me improve my electricals as well. As all your queries were answered and concluded there will be no harm if I continue this thread. If you still feel it is inappropriate let the Mods take care by moving it to appropriate section.'
ans-sure go on,but i thought if you created a diff thread or posted in a thread that was in relation with unicorns ,every one can see it clearly.if you see over xbhp,there are many threads for pulsars dc conversion.shree took a great initiation by creating convert your bike to full dc which is loaded with honda specific infos,i already posted a thread how to convert apaches to all dc .its just that the infos will be mixed up here.this thread originally started as a pulsar ug2 specific upgrade,so i thought to lock this and keep it that way,no tough feelings.

'I got the wattage from Service/shop manual of Unicorn and Ambition. Yes shree is correct, lighting current is limited. Yes a HID can be fixed on Uni without any modifications. I am currently using 55/60w connected to battery and no issues at all. I wanted to rewind because I thought that it will increase the lighting current, but one statement from shree and baam..
ans-check the load with a 30 amp or less car ampere meter.i am sure its the battery which is draining under 3 k rpm,not enough juice from the coil to charge up in stock state.i am saying this because even when shree converted to full dc with floting the ground and stock rr he was having some stress when a 55/60 bulb around 3 k rpm.here are some pics....image courtesy ,the one and only SHREE bhai..


no load-no charge/no discharge-

no load-charging

55w lowbeam-discharging@ 1k

55 w lowbeam-@4 k rpm-no charge no discharge.

60w highbeam@1k rpm-discharging.

60w high [email protected] rpm-no charge no discharge.

you see,even after the brilliant mods shree had done there was some stress on the battery in 1k-3.9k rpm range.now in real life some more loads like occational use of horns,indicators ,breaks etc will be there. i remember shree changed his tail unit to leds and was very cautious about what to use and what to not.in that mode of caution he was using one hid +one 55/60 halo and others.now in long time use say 3 hours+ you should face low battery prob.the problem can arise in city very soon also as the rpm will be in danger zone.still if you are not facing any probs,i say,i m happy for you.

'I completely agree. I should have started a new thread. But that can be explained in a good way like you did and not as if I intruded into private property.
I didn't like the word Hijack, and also posting in CAPS is often referred to as shouting isn't it.'
also to make a point.cool down.

Or the 232W coil of the ZMR

Hey !! I could only run 35w HID flawlessly but not a 55/60w Halogen for long duration. 55/60w I could run for a max of 4hours and battery was crying for mercy whereas a HID for 6+ hours was still strong enough to run self start easily.

As for the third pic, the bulb gets AC voltage, so DC readings will be obviously wrong. Now, the 4th pic, should show about 12V with the bulb OFF. Dont know why it shows so less.

Hey I tested the current like this.
-connected 2*55w bulbs in parallel. so total of 110watts can be measured using this load.
-a) First measured the voltage across the battery with engine OFF.--12.65v.
-b) Now connected the load and measured Amperage --5.6
so Total power that can be supplied from 7AH battery-- 12.65*5.6=70watts
-c) Disconnected the Battery, gave full throttle measured the voltage - 14.1V across battery charging wires RED and BLACK
-d) Connected the load to the RED and BLACK and measured the Amperage at full throttle --5.1
so Total power that can be supplied to the battery from RR is 14.1*5.1=72watts
By looking at the much deviation from 125w as claimed by manual to 72w I was confused. Then
-e) Replaced the 55w bulb which is connected to the headlight with 35w bulb and changed the lighting connections to stock ie Headlamp+Tail lamp driven from RR.
-f) Again gave full throttle and measured the Amperage at RED and BLACK--5.08 which is almost equal to previously recorded 5.1A.
In this condition the HEADLAMP, TAILLAMP were also illuminated to the full. so the Headlamp+Taillamp consumed 45w. Couldn't measure with MMeter because the wires of probes have become very hot.

Summing Up all the Powers: From Charging wires 72watts + From Lighting wires 45watts Total Power = 117watts.
The remaining 8~10watts might be lost when the Regulation/Rectification is done in the form of heat etc.

@abhjeet.

ME:
Lighting O/P from RR has a negative polarity and the voltages recorded are weird.
YOU:
That is a faulty recording from MultiMeter.
ME:
The MM might have recorded the voltages incorrectly due to frequency issues but measured the Amperage correctly. For a 35w bulb I got 2.6A.
YOU:
That is AC.
ME:
If that is AC why would it show -ve readings. will check for polarity tomorrow.
ME:
Checked the Polarity by using a diode and posted the pics. Circuit completed only in one case(bulb glow). Open ckt when the diode is reversed. This should not happen if the current is AC right. Also the polarity is negative wrt the ground. Cannot be made void because I didn't use a MM.

Interesting experiments those!

would a projector fog lamp work good on a bike..???i am getting a projector with angel eyes and itz a h3 fog lamp type projector??will it give a good glare?

see the boldy.....

you are corret about the ac part 45 watts.as i already told its limited around 3.5 amps.the voltage varies from 12 to 14 volts ,as the ac parts glow in full intensity.

for the dc part its not 72 watts,not even close,you are wrong here.
why?ok.as you are doing all kind of experiments,just do one more.go back to stock condition.now add 2 of your 55 watt halogen bulbs in parallel.now switch everything on.just ride on........................
first the battery will die-if the load is 72 watts the battery should not die correct?of disconnect all horn indicator tail break lamp,still the battery wil die.

or simply add a car ammpere meter and connect in series.you will see the its discharging.

a voltage of 12 .5 volts or less and declining at a steady rate going down and down is a dying battery.
get back with the results.

Wow wow... well said dude. Nothing more to add except the wire shorting as u said, must be a spell mistake I hope else he wont get the reading of 5.08A.

Sandeep, its better to have an Ampere meter to measure the amps properly and u can continuously monitor the current at any point of time without heating up the testing prob wires. I've changed the probe wire to a bit more thicker one but still its heating if I measure beyond 6A

^ one thing I learnt from measuring current above 5 amps is to use short probes. I made one from 2 crocodile clips, and 2 banana jacks (these are a dirrect fit to the DMM). Just solder the end of banana jack to the crocodile clip with a flat metal strip. I used 2 small bits of welding rod. the guy who soldered the jack used to weld as well, so got the whole thing done for ten bucks

I mostly use my analog for measuring current and voltage. It costs 100 bucks!

Yes it is STOCK. Previously in the HID thread or Let there be Light thread(sorry if the thread name is incorrect) I tried to follow your Idea - disconnect the wire which supplies AC to headlamp and use bridge rectifier & redirect to battery; that time also the diode test failed. And I PM'ed the same about reverse polarity to Shree and he was not sure. I will triple check my results for the polarity and post the images tomorrow in a clearly understandable way.

Oh my mad, how could I measure voltage at noload condition, forgetting the basics. Infact there were two mistakes in the experiment. One - the above; Two - I used thin wires for the connections. Also the probes of the MM are also so thin that they cannot let 100 watts through them. So Today I used solid household wires in place of probes and recorded the values, Also I measured the voltage when the load is ON.

Todays slightly refined experiment.
-Disconnected the battery.
-Connected the load of 2*55w across battery charging wires RED & BLACK.
-Connected the Multimeter across the LOAD, MM set to read Voltage.
-Started the bike and gave full throttle. Bulbs Illuminated.
-Recorded voltage across the LOAD/bulbs ----->> 10.24V
-Turned the engine off to break the circuit and set the MM in series to record the Amperes.
-Again Started the bike and gave full throttle. Bulbs Illuminated.
-Recorded the Amperes ------------->> 7.49

So there are no mistakes right? Now the POWER(watts) = Voltage(10.24) * Current(7.49)
====76.69 which is nearly 77watts.
Today I didn't connect the 35+10w load because yesterday it didn't effect the result at RED & BLACK charging ends.
so estimated total power=77+45=122w

If you still don't think this is valid I will take a video and post it here.

Doctor you didn't understand the situation of the patient here. I mentioned FULL THROTTLE - to measure the max wattage. If I ride with 2*55 in the city then my battery would be discharged when I make a turn to the next galli.

Photos speak more than words.. hahaha just kidding. Yes in the place of thin MM probes I used normal household wires which can carry 1100V and 600watts. Finolex wires-))

Guys If you think there is any mistake in my way of measuring the values let me know. As far as I am concerned the connections were correct and no shorting of wires happened. About the separate Ammeter/Car AMP meter - I don't want to spend on those things. A separate Ammeter is not required because I don't want to measure current all the time and MM is measuring the current correctly because I tested it today using the same 110watts of load on a battery and I got 11.95V and 9.12A which is nearly 109watts.

read the boldy

hope this helps.

^^ Agree with what Doc says. You need 12V atleast.