55w and 100w H3 are easily available here.

No, these r H3 bulb type and hardly found 100W. But dont worry about the heat as everything is metal not a small trace of plastic in that. Cost will be around 350-400/ for a pair.

@sajit:
Bro are these lights capable of taking the heat from a 100 or a 130 watt halogen bulb? how much do they roughly cost?

As long as on 35W halo, u dont need a relay but once u plonk the HID, relay is a must if its not there in the HID harness, so is the case for 55/60W halo.

Am using Autopal aux lamps as high beam flashing on day times. Its 4" and the smallest too. But its not good for HB as its too sharp as laser beam.

U can try this as this's got a wider spread than the first type


Take the PL 458 H3 for crash guard mounting or the first PL 456 H3 for inside the fairing.

its without relays, everything is stock..
awaiting my hid bulb....

i can't find p220's upper (high beam) reflector..
doc, the suggestion that you gave me regarding hella comet 200, its diameter is almost 17 cms, tooo big isn't it??
something like a pencil beam would do, but i can't see anything of almost 3 inch diameter...

all i need is a bit more patience in finding a 220's reflector..

With or without relays?

@ Drvmtm, nice signature dude.

its the stock bulb doc
35/35

[QUOTE=NANOtechnology;452027]yipee
my headlight runs now.
with stock switches and no extra wires.
a mech called me up today, who turned me down yesterday saying later and he did it in 10 mins.
god bless his soul..
all he did was find the batt wire, attach it to headlight one, taillight one and console.
done.

doc, abhijeet.

with old battery (2.5 amp one) the voltage ranges from 12.4v to 17.6v

it shows 12.6 constant with this new amaron 9 amp battery only, not old one.

i double checked it to make sure, i feel abhi is right maybe after charging a bit it might turn okay coz new batteries are only 70 % charged from factory...

if there was some charging voltage problem then how could it supply good amount to old battery??

lets wait and watch.
meanwhile today i kept my headlight switch on all afternoon and evening too, didn't feel even close to battery drain, infact my headlight has become soo bright now that i think there's no need to fit hid ....
just kidding.

battery being quite bigger than the old one, the side panel doesn't fit properly, i think there's nothing i can do about it coz i modified the brackets to its full extent and the battery rear touches the air filter box so it can't be trimmed in more.

it does lock, but still leaves almost an inch of a gap on the top side, lets hope rain doesn't spoil the battery.

I'll get h3 hid kit soon..[/QUOte

good.btw that head lamp u r usin?35/35 or a 55/60?
congo.

yipee
my headlight runs now.
with stock switches and no extra wires.
a mech called me up today, who turned me down yesterday saying later and he did it in 10 mins.
god bless his soul..
all he did was find the batt wire, attach it to headlight one, taillight one and console.
done.

doc, abhijeet.

with old battery (2.5 amp one) the voltage ranges from 12.4v to 17.6v

it shows 12.6 constant with this new amaron 9 amp battery only, not old one.

i double checked it to make sure, i feel abhi is right maybe after charging a bit it might turn okay coz new batteries are only 70 % charged from factory...

if there was some charging voltage problem then how could it supply good amount to old battery??

lets wait and watch.
meanwhile today i kept my headlight switch on all afternoon and evening too, didn't feel even close to battery drain, infact my headlight has become soo bright now that i think there's no need to fit hid ....
just kidding.

battery being quite bigger than the old one, the side panel doesn't fit properly, i think there's nothing i can do about it coz i modified the brackets to its full extent and the battery rear touches the air filter box so it can't be trimmed in more.

it does lock, but still leaves almost an inch of a gap on the top side, lets hope rain doesn't spoil the battery.

I'll get h3 hid kit soon..

That 12.6V is because the battery is not fully charged. Ride around for a day or 2, these figures should increase. 12.6V is too low otherwise.

Dr sir use multi quotes instead of multi posts please

oh,with a load of one hid and others my voltage is around 13 volts to 14.8 depending upon rpm.with out load its 13-15 volts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pavanchirmade
Well there is a lot of fun involved in DIY. Plus you can learn so much. I bet you learned a lot from all the stuff you've been doing.Plus, when it'll be successful, you can brag about how you did it all by yourself and just enjoy the astonished expressions on their faces. So don't worry so much man. People tend to blow up a lot of things when 'Doing It Themselves'. Just a little use of common sense like your use of fuse can save major catastrophes while working.. All the best man!

+1,amen...............period..
__________________

I used to get same 12.6v with APE RR with or without headlight.
Hope its the same here. APE RR's give sufficient charging AMP's so 12.6v should be sufficient.

nano,please check the voltage with a load of 60 watt bulb rinning directly from battery.the voltage seems too low.

Ah, at last u made it Congrats man and welcome to the DC world

Dont go for another switch for HL as u can use the stock switches, to be routed through the ign switch. Assume that ur stock setup have a batt so it should've a batt switch along with the ign switch. Since ur bike is wired with a batt contact, u can easily take a taping from the wires going to the horn +ve and route it to the stock RR AC out wire to get DC to the switch. Now drive the relays with the stock switch and load the bulb from the batt with a thicker guage wire. Dont feed the bulb with the stock switch. Now from outside everything is stock condition, once u pull out the key everything is off and safe and u dont need an extra swtich too.