He's getting enough current from the coil. Only b2b traffic it can make issues, which he didnt AFAIK.


BTW, Nice avtar dr.

U dont need to rewind as its pumping 7A at higher rpms.

Do as Shree advised, u can run a HID with a flat batt if your coil is rewinded and APE RR is installed. I've tested this for 2-3 days with a flat batt

Ask the dealer to check the batt and get it replaced He may check your charging voltage and amps, so keep ur rpms as low as possible to avoid more confusions as the recommended charging rate is 1-2A for a 7AH at stock condition, and u've altered it now.



No way if the RR is good, I think your reading must be wrong that time as you've got the correct voltage on the new batt.

@nano.....
bro you said 7 amps at higher rpms.
how much you are getting say 3k rpm?

a properly winded coil will support hid.my friends p 150 ug1 with 2.5 amps battery is supporting hid.only you have to hold the rev to 2k rpm or more while starting the hid,then its ok.

i will test it again with ammeter and voltmeter and let you guys know.

I'm very sure that old battery (2.5 amp) was getting handsomely charged, it was drained to the core and took only 20 mins to get to full charge..

I'll do as shreeni said, I'll put up my old battery and try, but tell me its just 2.5 amp will it support my hid??

Amazing stuff there bro, liked the way you have posted as well as the pictures. Some night shots are expected
Try to paint the surface with black rather than silver, will give a killer look or sticker the outer glass with matte black. Anyways that is personal choice.

Coming to your problem, I smell that your battery is culprit which is not taking sufficient charge. Amaron is known for this issue until u get hold of right battery. My battery was replaced 4 times in warranty. (Once due to RR failure ). Try charging ur old battery, connect it and run as long as it runs. As you are getting proper charge there, it should run well. Try it and let me know.

I've done a lot of experiments when i was a child.
I've made my parents proud many times by building bikes, cars, helicopters, airplanes, submarines all these WORKING models, with 2 dry cells....
they always wanted me to be an engineer due to such interests at the age of 5 onwards..
hence this mod was again a kind of keeda in me from childhood according to them hence convincing them was not much problem.

okay.
let me ask
Should i do the coil re-winding again with more number of turns??
i did check the amps pumping in, it was arr 7 amps at higher revs..
my old battery gets 17 volts, while new 9 amp one gets only 12.5, i don't understand how is this possible...
only charging it from outside now and staying with the setup is enough??

if everything is done step by step and planned so how come its not getting charged??

Wow.............. Nice mod man, really awesome with very limited resources. I must say that u r very lucky to have very supportive parents for this kind of mods. Mostly wont agree to do this if you are not independent.

Like Dr. said black sticker would make it more killer in looks too, for an update u can refer SHree's projector thread.

Pls do'nt cover the projector sides as these are heat vents. If u cover it, your entire housing will heatup due to this. Instead use some metal sheet to cover it rather than sealing it, so that heat will escape through the vents and u can cover the light coming out.

I think dr. is right, check your rr status, measure the voltages once again and post it. HID will flicker once ur batt is flat, 55W halo takes more power than a 35W HID hence its getting off when u push the HB.

Also check all the connections you've made for this like from the coil to RR to batt.
Do take a amps reading too, so that u can convince urself without anyone's help. Check for the amps readings it should be around 4-6A @3-5K rpm.

Nothing to worry it can be easily sorted out once you post the readings. U've taken enough effort to accomplish this, so be calm and check once again as posted earlier.

WOW,WOW AND SOME MORE WOW.YOU HAVE DONE IT.no matter i cant find enough letters in this qwerty keypad to express my feelings.it good.A BIT OF STICKERING IN MATT BLACK WILL FINISH OFF THE PROJECT.awesome mate.congrats again.

ok we are here to help you out the small problem that you are having.
let me stand corrected,,,,your load is

1. hid-35watt
2. halogen -55watt
3. break/tail position-5/21watt
4. console lights-approx 9 watt
5. numberplate light-3 watt.

now you used 19 awg wire to rewind.
here is the picture.....

if you see closely the poles are not winded properly,i can bet its less then 12 feet per pole.so it can be a problem.you need 12 feet perpole as i said before for optimum output.
here i am attaching a picture of a coil which is doing its job brilliantly on my friends p 150 ug1 without electric start with a 2.5 amp battery,55/60 bulb.hid also works in this bike.see the coil how much full it is.


also i saw the readings you took............
you posted back.................when engine was off ...... 12.4 v
@ 1000........................ 12.6 v
@ 2000........................ 12.6 v
@ 3000........................ 12.6 v
@ 4000........................ 12.6 v
@ 5000........................ 12.6 v
@ 6000........................ 12.6 v
@ 7000........................ 12.6 v
@ 8000........................ 12.6 v
@ 9000........................ 12.6 v

its strange that it remained constant at 12.6 no matter how hard i revved.
i feel strongly something is wrong here.the voltage should vary to 12-15.8 volts as per my data.also the voltage should not change even you change the battery to a smaller 2.5 amp one.its not the batter its the charging that matters. one of my friends p 150 converted to dc is working full dc with a 55/60 bulb with a puny 2.5 amp battery.i even tested hid on that bike it worked,the bike dont have self though.

so what to do??
i suddegest you

1. get your battery charged fully.
2. check your wiring circuits.
3. check the voltage gain ,this time two type readings -onload/off load.
4. check the ampere output -to do this-take all the wires from your batterys positive terminal and run it through a car ampere meter or a digital ampere meter to the battery's positive terminal.you should get no charge no discharge status from 2.5 krpm-3k rpm and then positive charge .

worst case scenario is your rr is shorted because the mal handling of wires before.
dont worry.just test it as i said.any prob,ring me.

hello guys.
sorry for late post in this particular thread.
i had written a very explained post with pics yesterday night too, but on finishing it i mistakenly closed the browser window.
i wrote this morning at 7 too almost the same size with same pics and details but again thanks to the electricity board of MUMBAI there was a power cut for merely 10 secs which happened exactly after i attached the last pic.
i don't have a UPS or an inverter at home, so again posting it was unsuccessful.
i hope this post reaches the masses before any problems...


lets come back.
i have 2 things which are very important to tell you.
1 thing is yesterday's update.
2nd one is today's.

let's start from yesterdays..


guys i have successfully achieved the task fo installing a projector and a reflector side by side inside the stock headlight unit and it WORKS....

the process was not simple, but definitely it is very sturdy and i don't think would require opening again to do small adjustments..


i think you guys already knew that it was an acrylic plate which helped me to achieve this thing.
so initially i removed the glass, had to put the reflector inside water to mark points for a flat surface, as water will remain parallel to ground and i can mark points to adjust the plate exactly flat as i want. (smart ee-nay??)

so i did mark points.
i cut a piece of paper first instead of acrylic to see weather it fits nicely, but unfortunately it folds when you place it on top, so i had to cut a piece of cardboard from my old C++ journal, and place it so that i can make small adjustments.
after confirming, it was acrylic.

after much trial an error i place perfect spots and attached angles on the reflector so that it holds the plate firmly.
i did it using fevi stick.
very very sturdy.

here it is






after this, i had to place the acrylic plate on these angles tightly enough so that it could hold the weight of projector and reflector on its own..

this is how it looked





if you see the plate you'll notice 2 big holes in between and small ones near the smaller round..
the 2 holes in center were supposed to be for pilot lamps which i thought of installing..
but i gave it up, you'll know why, read on.


this plate fits inside, but does not gel well with the sides, there was hardly anything i could do about it as i am not very perfect with cutting, and i don't thing it could be made better without proper professional tools.








the projector has holes on top and bottom which really scatter a lot of light inside so i though of covering it, i was tired and exhausted so stuck aluminum foil around it with a take but it never held as it turned warm. I'm still looking for a way to close them..






as i said earlier that i had to stick the reflector behind, but i had to grind slightly so that i can place it a bit tilted to give HIGH only beam..
i initially stuck it with fevicol rubberized adhesive but after drying i realized that it never hold acrylic and isn't that strong so later on i did the same with silicon jel, and fevi stick...

this is the image of the older attachment using fevicol





i bridged the gaps with tape on all sides and sealed it nicely using silicon jel, to make it one piece






the rear view with both the projector and reflector attached, did i tell you that i used 2 inch long bolts to attach the projector ?







i used m seal to attach the plate before filling up silicon and tape, so its rock hard and i even tried to hang my helmet strap through the holes to check weather it takes that weight.







not even 1 mm of gap left between the two light cannons...





after much cosmetic make up stuff for okay appearance from the front i painted it silver.
guys its impossible to paint over silicon jel, even if you do it looks terrible because of such surface...
hence a lot of newspaper, tape and gum to make it smoother...
and that's oil paint..

the final look from the front.




well i know it doesn't look neat and clean, but it surely does the job for me as its the performance that matters not the looks.

so far the mission is accomplished.
it happened and i forget to mention i even used 2 spst relays so that there's no problem of load to switches.
in the sajit's diagram there's a very important step to provide the current to relays from the main wire not the switch wire, good detailing man, after much trial and error i found out that it should be done that way..
i was connecting it to the ign wire itself.

and YES the beam spread.
the low beam is very wide almost 160 to 170 degrees horizontally coz of the lens.
the high beam is long and less spread, does the job well and placed exactly where i wanted it to be...


i did it yesterday night and was off to click pictures of beam spread
i searched for the darkest road around 5 kms radius from my house but it was raining all day and the roads were wet and shining like mirror, so i couldn't satisfy myself and wouldn't have satisfied you too hence i kept it for later dry road.


tired and satisfied had a wonderful sleep yesterday night..
i would like to thank specially the following members to have helped me in every way possible even when i was stupid...

thanks a lot
sajit
doc
shreeni
abhijeet
navnish

without you guys this would have been impossible
please accept my sincere thanks...




this was the end of 1st thing...
now coming to second one.

satisfied with this i was off to lonavala, amby valley and lohgad fort as a Sunday tour
i rode a total of 273 kms today and m very tired and exhausted again, my back is killing me as this was my first ever long ride .....
i would like to share my first time HID experiences...


the beam is awesome, but since I'm not used to the hid spread i was not very happy as one practically doesn't need light on the sides...
i rode on the highways all the time with an average speed of 70-80 kph and at good revvs...

in all this ride my hid was switched on only in fog at amby valley for around 1/2 an hour and in the night while coming back for around 2 to 2&1/2 hour...

during this i basically used only low beam (35w hid)
since it was all wet from morning to night and raining i had to use high beam halo also sometimes to see far away direction boards and road end reflecting lines as well as radium reflectors red one's behind far away vehicles....

at the highway once when i switched on high beam, my low beam turned OFF...
i had kept low always on and high + low on when high is selected so once when i switched to high this happened.
i switched back to low but hid never started, i pulled over switched off the headlight, checked if there's any loose connection or weather the water has seeped due to rain but nothing like this had happened.
i again switched on the headlight after a minute or so and it switched on perfectly this time....

this happened 2-3 time when i switched to high beam since then.

hardly when i was 10 kms away from home and only on low beam henceforth my hid started flickering and it turned off..

i tried to pull over and wait and switch on again but it never worked.
i blew my horn to know the status of the battery and it showed that my battery was drained to the core...
i had to ride the remaining 10 kms without the headlight...

i don't understand that since I've done re-winding
and used 9 amp how can it not get charged all this time.
i remember my old battery 2.5 amp getting amazingly charged even after 45 mins of ride.
today i rode for 8-9 hrs flat at high rpm's and high speed with only 2-3 hrs of headlight usage and my battery died ???


have i done the mistake of buying 9 amp??
is it difficult to charge it with this coil no matter how much you rewind??

guys I've spent a lot of time, efforts and my parent's money to do this and i really feel broke now...

i dunno what to say ahead maybe you understand

Oh wonderful Dude. Congratulations. More details on the HID, AC to DC, Battery drain? Upload Pics.

Shree, its got a long nose applicator along with the tube, do not unscrew till ur next use, so that the gel gets hardened in the nozzle and there wont be any air contacts to the tube. At the time of the next use, unscrew the nozzle and pull out the hardened sealant and use, this is the tip I got. But I think this is for frequent usages, for long storage am following ur idea even with a small tube.

U can get the relays from the auto electrical/spare shop, but dont frighten them with SPST, rather relays or just show them a pic.



Points noted as 85 and 86 are for relay coils, feed this from your stock switch, 30 and 87 contacts for the load, one is from the batt and the other is for the load with thicker guage with good connecter pins, u'll get the same from the shop, buy 1 doz, u may spoil for the first time.

Refer the diagram, its simple to follow and ur doubts will be cleared once u see that.

If u r not ready to sacrifice 50% of the light, get ready for the abuses. Do the projection once again and if u still think a bit more is required, u can grind them off a bit and enjoy the extra light u've tweaked.

I forgot one thing, being bit soft, silicon sealant dont've much holding capacity, so use the screws where ever its required. In that case u can gasket sealant for the same for the latter usage.

I think u've got confused with the jargons. Every projector can hold only one bulb and the shield makes it dual beam like lifting the shield with the help of a solenoid. In ur case ur shield is fixed and hence a HB extra. If u see my projector mod thread, u can see the shield with the solenoid.

Use the stock park wire to power the HID powering relay and the HB wire to the HB halo powering relay, If you use the low beam wire for the HID, then it will be off when u change the switch to HB. Assuming that u've a switch to power the park light. If not u may need an extra switch to enable both at a time.

@ sajit.

1 guy had this same sealant but i dropped the idea of using silicon as i thought it will never come off.

I'll buy it.
thanks for the info.

I'll look at the diagram, but tell me, do i get these relays on any electrical store, where i get circuits or stuff, or should i go to the automobile store.
and these things fit into the wiring, does it need any protection against water and stuff?
will i be able to use stock switches??

also
i tried what you were wanting to explain.
it doesn't work well, also it seems okay, but when you try to do it you realize that if you leave a space between the reflector and the flat plate, it doesn't hold well.
i didn't want my reflector to slip out if i hit a bump.
besides i even tried to tighten the clamps a bit more, but that doesn't work too as its almost impossible to remove it back without breaking the clamps.
and these clamps with screws take too much of space so i had to stick it, again impossible to remove without breaking...

hence i decided to stick the entire reflector in one place.
however, I'm very precise and confident about the high beam focus point, its exactly where i want the high beam to hit, its 80% above the cutoff line, and 20% below.
i used a wall to mark these levels, and compared it to stock high and low positioning.

I'm a bit unsatisfied with the projector cut off, it kill almost half of the light, but its okay as i don't wish to get abuses atleast at low beam.

I'll post the pics when i mount the plate on the reflector, so far i've attached angles to hold the plate, I'll place the plate perfectly on these angles and shove silicon on all the sides.
then when everything is set I'll post pics...

but tell me how come you use that circuit you mentioned with an H4 bixenon hid??

I used this without dispensing Gun Used a long screw driver and pressed from back

Make sure you tighten the cap with a plastic cover inbetween else the gel will dry out soon. Mine is still in nice shape, thanks to plastic cover

Thats very interesting to hear that you've successfully installed both. Hats off to u man

U can use the silicon sealant as Shree said but dont go to aquarium shops for that. Go to any hard ware shop and ask for White RTV Silicon Sealant (M Seal N30) its a small tube for Rs. 45/- is more than enough for our glass sealing. I always keep a tube with my chest. For T&E methods this the best as we can pull out the sealant within no time without heating much.
Here's it look like:


You can buy a bigger tubes for industrial purposes for Rs.170/ but requires dispensing gun for another 150/-

Bigger tube is like this:


And the dispenser:


Its very sad to say that u dropped the idea of leveling of HB which can be easily adopted with the help of 3 brackets as I've already mentioned. U can use those saddle clamps which I've posted last time for both handles on the reflector and one straight clamp can be used lifting up and down. I dont know how to explain without a pic but am not good in sketches.

U can use the circuit I am using, will ensure that ur HB will be on without switching off the LB. Its in the few pages behind in this thread I hope.

SPST relays are used in that circuit to enable both the beam to be on demand. refer the circuit for more details.

Like Shree said am also very eager to see your projector mod.

the existing sealant is gone...
i don't have enough of it to attach the glass back.
i didn't think about it while removing
hence this query.

also i need sealant to place the plate back on the reflector too.

can silicon do both these stuff ??

First of all heartly congratulations for your successful completion of Project Projector.

You can use the hair drier again to heat up the existing sealant and place back the glass. After sealing the glass, to keep it 100% water proof use Silicon Gel (available in aquarium shops).

The relay part, its best explained by Abhi / Sajjit / Dr.

Photos are wanted urgently
Do post them soon