doc, i did read your and sajit's post a lot of times, the thing is that i completely referred the diagram posted by shreeni.
all my lights work, everything- the tail light, indicators, except the headlight and console light.
i think re routing the wires from battery itself will do.
the last coil HAS the same no of turns, believe me, look at a few pages behind, you'll see the stock coil also was terribly low, that's because the last leg is thinner than the other legs.
its strange, but true...

i bought the 19 gauge wire 300 gm for 150 bucks.
i paid 150 bucks to the re-winding person.
he was asking for 250 but we negotiated
all i think i need to do now is connect the black wire of ape rr to ground which now is connected to -ve of battery,
and -ve of batt to ground. maybe that will work, if not then i plan to pull out my wiring and re-route all the wires as stated by all you, specially to the headlight.

the huge amaron 9 amp batt is a huge pain to attach.
i was cutting the stock brackets of battery but i broke the hack saw blade in my hands and cut my skin, so i delayed the process.

the bad thing for me is that there's no one who is helping me here personally.
i also feel bad that i post you people all stupid queries too, but i can't help it coz you people are my only hope...
so all the things which i don't understand becomes a query.

regarding relay, i again have to search for some good auto electrician to get the job done...

will go on Saturday to search for hid projs..
meanwhile I'll keep you all updated.
thanks a lot everyone for all this until now, i am glad to be a part of such enthusiasts.

hey nano,hold on,dont do those sudden changes to wires and all u will burn everything.

you havent read the prev posts of sajjit and mine yaar.

yellow wire to battery pos and black to battery negetive or a good ground,battery negetive is easy.

now you have to reroute the light wires to battery.
use relay of cars to use in halogen.

just go to any auto electrician and tell him to reroute all the wires through the battery.

just think about it.
previously there was 2 phases,one ac and one dc.as of your writing you left everything stock ,so the the wires which used to carry ac phase to lights like headlight/pilot/meter cosole/tail position are3 not getting any power.with your new setup you are by default giving power to which originally was from battery,understood.
you just have to reroute the power of headlight from battery,and yes your battery will support the headlight even if ur bike isnot running.but that dosent mean any body can fiddle the light when you park your lights because the lights will only powerup only when you will put the switch (key) in.

point to note.......... dont run a 90/100 halogen bulb in plastic stock reflector,it will melt,also use a relay for headlight and use thicker wires for headlight as the load will be 5 amps+,stock wiring and switches will not able to take the load,just add a relay and higher gauge wire from auto electrician will resolve everything.

your coil still have some space space left ,for a single hid or a halogen upto 55/60 is ok but it looks there will be strain in low rpm if the load is more then 80watts,just a though,as it lookes the coil is not 12 feet per pole and the last pole is less winded.dont be down ,just try and check.

the stock wires are ok but its better to use thicker wires from ac out of coil as the oem wires are old and the load per wire increased ,just pull out the original unwanted wires and run wires through the plug,its a tight squeeze ,a lot of effort but worth it,but as you done already ,it s ok.
also how much you spent for rewinding?


also check the ac input close to the oem wiring connector just after the oem rr.

@sajit
yes, my bike starts which means that the connections are okay.. phew.

regarding ape rr, the black wire of ape itself should be fixed to the bold holding the rr, got it, will do it today itself..
maybe thats why headlight is not working..
is there's some other reason considering connections till now are okay (the one is the quote)
and yes the -ve of the battery should be grounded too?

1 more question,
if its successfully converted to DC, then will my headlight bulb work even if the engine is off,
it should right??
that means i won't have to kick start bike all the time to check the headlight..

Finally got coil rewinding done.
used 19 guage wire all around 7 poles and got it done from a professional (finally found one).
he left out the ends of the coil connected to stock wires which goes out through the opening at the end....
i told him to put thicker 5mm wires at coil end so that it can carry the load of the ac current to th rr unit, but he said that there's no need as stock wires will carry enough load the coil produces, i still insisted, but again he said that even if he does, he won't be able to source it out through the opening for wires, and then i'll face oil issues,
finally after much argument i gave up, and asked him to source it through stock wires but he has cut the end wires that is both the terminals out from the attached harness thus making it clear as what two wires are the end of coils...
by this i could easily attach ape rr to these cut out wires..

he showed me that those wires could carry heavy load, he attached my coil to his huge machine with a magnet on the body to perform testing and it resulted that i could easily manage a 100w bulb

finally i agreed and it was done..


here's the pic of re-winded coil




but pulse generator (black thing on top) is left as stock, i asked him to remove the end which is connected to the coil and attach it to the ground refering the following circuit posted by shreeni




but in my system its strange that this coil connections go directly upwards in the wire, showin no signs of relation with the coil through directly connected wires so i left it as it is...
as the testing of the output of coil was satisfactory, i was happy....

but now, attaching the ape rr is a pain.
i have connected it exactly as shown in the above circuit, but still strangely my headlight doesn't work.

@ sajjt

the black wire of ape rr should be bolted to the same attaching rr circuit bolt???
i attached it to the -ve of the battery, maybe this was the problem...

also, after connecting the +ve of ape rr (yellow wire) to the battery, all my electricals work except HEADLIGHT.....
tried swapping the wires (connected to grey ones) connecting the ape rr from the coil, i.e lr/rl still no luck.
mech thought that my rr would be faulty, but it give out good amount of current when the engine is running if coil wires connect grey ones in rr thus everything seems perfect so far...
tried connecting the out of apr rr yellow wire to the headlight's yellow wire particularly, still my headlight doesn't work, weather the engine is on or off...
what could be a problem here??

i don't know now as will only connecting the black wire from the apr rr back to its own bolt and grounding the -ve terminal of battery would be sufficient. keeping the yellow wire from the ape rr connected to the +ve of batt, or something else will also be required...

will try though, and yes, the yellow wire from ape rr goes to batt and the wiring harness too, or just the batt??

but when everything was swapped to orignal rr removing ape rr headlight and other light works fine ...

and yes i forgot to mention
i bought amaron pro bike rider 9 amp batt, quite heavy
3kgs, my stock battery looks like a pencil cell in front of it..

will try if it works, and keep everyone updated, meanwhile let me know more.
thanks for all the help soo far everyone..

@doc

well sorry for unclean system, i don't have a chain cover so all this mess
no matter how much i clean it, it gets back to this...
but if everything works fine.... who cares ???

sorry dude, i also have h3 projector... and i dont have a dual beam.... i have to install the headlight and still see whether it was qworth the money or not..... but i am planning to keep that single beam on the high beam switch as then i can at least use the pass switch...