How did u know that he's used a 20g? Still that will compansate I hope, for the time being, let'm do the checks first and later on he may go for rewinding if its demanding. He wants to make the cost as low as possible so lets wait for the results.

3.5A is the max from a stock coil @ higher rpms whereas here its getting from the normal rpms, so there should be enough juice for a HID from a 9AH. I tried my HID with a flat batt and it was struggling to startup, but once its stabilized, its as good as from a batt. At low rpms its has the tendency to flicker so I just increased the rpm to compensate.

yup sajit, it happens the same with mee too as my battery is dead..
i too do the same..
it does work, but at signals have to keep the battery off.
i keep it off all the time thinking that it will spoil the bulb.




isn't 20 gauge wire thinner than 19 gauge check this out..
American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies

if the size is thinner, how come it generate more ??







meanwhile, update guys..

i did all the testing and trial today..
i found out my real problem.
its just as shreeni said, my BATTERY

initially i checked the voltage of the battery after removing it out, the 9 amp batt showed around 11.2 volts...

the old 2.5 amp battery which was not used from 3 weeks showed 7 volts

i connected the 9 amp battery and started the bike, revved it the voltage raised from 11.2 to 11.6 max at redline...

when i connected the old 2.5 amp and started the bike it raised from 7 volts to 14 volts within 5k rpm, and remain arr 14.2 toll redline...

until now, the reading was same as before..
i was still not convinced completely as my battery was faulty as the amps were different.. so to make sure i wanted to use another battery which was never used here in this process,
my friend has a gs 150 r and it has a 9 amp batt stock, i tried with that..
what it showed was
at engine off, 12.4 v
at 3-4k rpm 13.6
at 5-6k rpm 14.2

until redline, arr 14.6.....


the good news is that it was confirmed that the battery AMARON 9 amp is faulty... I'll get it replaced tomorrow itself...

the bad news is that I'm still searching for the warranty card, i don't remember where i kept it.... i hope i find it out soon ..


i still think that even if everything works okay, i'll switch the high beam from 55w halo to 35w halo as its not glowing to its full intensity, since high + hid remains on in high mode, maybe that bulb will glow better...


and yes today was dry and beam looked awesome, but it didn't last long and high never worked with low thanks to battery, so the pictures will come soon...

Oh boy !! These things are critical when doing DIY job. Atleast the bill should do. Did you check the carton box in which they gave battery

Why do u want to switch it off on signals, since u r on a rewinded coil, u can twist the throttle bit more to avoid flickering. Remember that each startup the HID takes more current, once it stabilizes it requires very less current almost equal to the stock 35W halo. So if u switch off at signals it will make worse.

Shree is a master in figuring out the faulty comps Hey u didnt measure the amps, get that also. Voltage readings are very much promising.

No need to switch to 35W as it will kill the charm, it will lightup without any issues once the HID is in full brightness. 9A batt is capable of this from a rewinded coil, am driving 2X55W spots along with the HID at times. Your coil should be better than mine as am using only 4 poles for charging which is able to pump 8A and my batt poles are still idle. Dont switch on both at a time thatz the only thing to bear in mind.

Drji, I am yet to give u my amps readings but I smoked my DMM with wrong selection of amps reading. This week I'll try to buy one and post.

found my warranty card...
i kept it in my drawer...
that was the only place where i didn't search.
even my rr was in there only, I'll go there by afternoon and get it replaced..

i have selected both ON as only high beam is like a torch and riding with that only is a real pain, besides if i do so I'll have to switch the hid on again when i hit low beam which will draw more current...

i opened up my pass switch to connect it to only high beam halo, but that's almost impossible as the current travels back.
i thought of cutting the low beam wire would be enough but it made things worse as my pass switch doesn't work..

I'll have to make up a diode and plug in the wire so that current does not get reserved, and do the same thing.....
i plan it this weekend.

any suggestions ??

and yes, I'll get the battery replaced ride for some days, see the performance, if am unhappy I'll rewind the coil again as doc said 12 feet per pole.
then b2b traffic and keeping both on for hours also won't be an issue..

I don't think I the power will traverse back, I had just cut the wire from pass switch and connected to HB wire and it was working fine.

BTW TREAT us with photos of projectors in action man.

yes 20 awg is thinner then 19 awg wire.but being thinner the total wire per pole is more which is better if you want more amp in less rpm.its true that in higher rpm the amp will not increase that much.in my friends case the max amp out is around 6.2 amps @7.5 k or more rpm.
the 20 awg wire is having a diff outer diameter then 19 awg.

It rains all the time night and day, the road shines like mirror, any ways i had this battery issue so i didn't ride in the night from some days..
will do it when i find a dry road...

i tried that cutting thing, and the switch never works..


regarding battery,,
i went to the amaron guy today, the same place from where i bought the battery.
i told him that the battery was not getting charged, he checked it again and again and was telling me that it will get charged, that's not possible and so on..
i literally had to explain him everything and he was still not convinced..
damm these uneducated people are so difficult..
you can't make them understand anything..
so after much talks, i asked him to give me any completely drained battery and I'll show him as how voltage exceeds till 14 and with this battery never exceeds 11.6

he did bring in a spare service battery (that's what they called it)
after trying and testing, the voltage reached till 13.8
he asked me to keep that battery meanwhile, and he will charge this current battery of mine overnight.. if everything is okay, then he'll give me that battery back..
if not he'll replace.

i was pissed off, but as i was sure that it won't be good i agreed..

i also asked him that why is replacing such a big pain for you, why can't you just give it to the company and say that customer is unhappy....
he said that these batteries that we take as replacement ones are checked by the technician, if the come out to be correct, we have to pay for the one we replaced from our pocket, hence all this tu tu main main....

so i put up that service battery of his, it was not fully charged, but yes its getting handsomely charged, that's what i think as after almost an hour of riding the horn blew wonderfully...

i hope that guy doesn't stick me the same battery tomorrow....
if he does I'm mailing this issue to amaron people...

and yes i forgot to mention that he was already unhappy as my bike is not meant for 9 amp so that was his 1st ever problem....

Arrey yar, I have replaced my battery 4 times. What all he said is 100% lies to fake u. Why don't u head to Amaron Service Center instead of Dealer ??

The procedure to replace battery in service center is..
Day 1 - They take battery from u and put it for charging (24 hours minimum). Here they use high capacity chargers so even a dead battery will charge.
Day 2 - They give u same battery to use and try for a week.

After a week if still problem persists, same above step repeats.

I blasted them properly when they told will charge and give again for 2nd time bcz that will keep repeating every week. After screwing his happiness he gave new battery with new warranty card (date of purchase will remain same).

2nd time also same happened to me, this time I told straight on face, u want to charge then charge it, u urself test for a week on ur bike or whatever. I will come after a week. This time he gave new battery next day itself.

3rd and 4th time without any talks he replaced

So why is the battery dying?

yes good question.why?

the battery is faulty, hence its not getting charged, even with a re-winded coil..
that's why its dying..

i am thinking that i should have gone for exide battery instead of amaron...
but since i already paid and in india there's no such real thing as money back, i'll have to stick to these one..

expecting money back is toooo much, these people aren't even giving a replacement..

by the way shree, nice color of the new zmr, how's it running??

U still have to figure out how this h/l switch functions with the contacts, thats why the confusion. Once u wire it properly u should be able to light up both.

Replacing a batt is always a pain even its in stock conditon and brand new. These A$$... will try all possible reasons to reject it. Tell that guy to test it for 2 days and get the replacement rather recharging and giving it back as the same thing u can also do, why the heck we should go there and ask? Better u could take the battery alone without showing the mods u've done to avoid more arguments.

Shree is right and there is no chance of paying out of their pocket, in that case they would never retail it by taking that risk. May be they have to give u a replacement from their stock and that will be refunded to them bit late. Better you take it to the company then there wont be much issues unless u r a frequent visitor like Shree. Mine is also Amaron but its still in pristine condition for the past 7 months, so there can be chances with every brand to let u down with these type of issues.

Whats the current status with the spare batt? Is it giving u enough backup?


Some clients are always a head ache to the sellers so once they realise who is who they will settle them very fast to avoid more people take part in that game.

Ur batt shop walla should've a good patience man. 4 times Next time when u show up for even for another new batt too, he'll run for his life.

3 times battery was defective, 4th time thanks to APE RR

i went to the battery dealer toady....

the first thing i did was take his voltmeter and check the current battery (spare one which he gave) it showed 12.96 volts, pretty healthy as yesterday it showed 12.3
so it means that my bike does charge an amaron 9 amp

he brought my battery, from charging and yes this time it was the owner who was talking to me,
not those uneducated employees of his, he was very polite and understanding, he was saying that if you are not happy with it even now after checking it here yourself, I'll give you a new battery no questions asked right away....

i think all that growling yesterday made him turn into that, he was not there yesterday....
his employees must have told him.

it was the same batt, i did check the serial number, after putting it up it showed 13.5
its alright so far, i tried checking with starting the bike and wow, it reached 13.8---14----14.6-----15-----15.9-----16.4----17.2.......
until redline....

i double checked, triple checked, it showed similar readings, well i was still a bit in doubt so i removed my own digital multimeter and checked, again these good readings...

so i was satisfied and the dealer said that amaron are best in class and these problems don't happen with us, if you face any issues with this, call me on my cell, he gave me his card...
i asked him the reason and he said that if battery is kept for long, it does tend to behave like this.

i came home,
i tried it again and this time it showed similar readings, only that before without engine on, it showed 13.5 now it showed 12.9 but as soon as i started the bike, good readings..


i went for a ride and tried low beam, high beam all together with horn and an indicator glowing also the brake pressed a bit to turn brake light on to see weather it takes all the load...

i tried it 3-4 times and the high beam finally glew to full intensity, however it wasn't dark on road, just thick clouds, still beam was clearly visible...

i stayed on low as it was quite heavy rain and here its a tradition to keep the headlights on in rains no matter how bright it is, quite good though...

guess what,,,,
once i switched to high, the low beam turned off......
dammm

same thing happened again, but yes this time the bulb did glow to full intensity, and yes the hid also took lesser time to turn yellow than usual...

if i switch high beam once and twice it works well but if i do it frequently, as flashing this thing happens..

i checked the amps too, same 6-7 amps at higher rpms and 2-4 amps at below 5000 rpm....

since I've attached the low beam wire to high beam too to keep it always on, can that be an issue???
coil is healthy, amps are healthy, batt is healthy, bulbs are glowing to full intensity then too this happens, and yes if i do more than 2 to 3 high beam flashes only....

should i change to 35w high beam h7 ????