These are all my assumptions based on basic electronics and not bike electronics.

stator output raw ?? ------ didn't check as was worried that the multimeter would be spoilt..

rr output voltage without load ?? ------ as i mentioned earlier..
dude 35v is too less.
it was 35 volts when the coil was not properly re-winded.
i re-rewinded my coil with minimum 12-12.5 feet per pole and with exact no of turns on each and every pole...

now its giving 90 volts at higher revs...
remember its rr's output that i am talking about, without load... (without battery)

regarding battery, i would like to let you know that when my battery is already charged, it shows healthy voltages across the revv range..
for instance 12.6 at engine off
13.9 after starting the bike and revving

when my battery is almost dead, it doesn't charge well with this ape rr (current and previous setup)...
for instance 11.4 at engine off
11.4-11.5-11.6 max at higher revs..

rightly mentioned...
PLEASE people whoever have converted their bike to full dc, post your rr voltages, rr's output without any load, at so and so rpm,
do let me know red line output too...
would be very very helpful...

and its no big deal if its just an rr issue, i'll buy a new one..
anyways it doesn't have a warranty as much as i know..

1 more thing i strongly feel...
i think 9 amp battery is too much
guys do let me know that all you hid people, which battery are you using?
5 amp or 9 amp??

the reason i asked you this question is because, when i checked amps with my puny 2.5 amp battery it showed 7 amps pumping in (not properly re-winded coil)

but now 2.5 amp battery is history,
and this new battery can't show me amps..
i set the multimeter in amp mode and it ranges between 0.3 to 1.1 max...

i cross checked with my friend's 9 amp exide
it was same...

i double checked this with 9 amp battery's amps on a gs 150 r with everything stock, and the bike never started as the battery poles were not connected...

i think that a 2.5 amp battery if gets more than 2.5, will send as output.
but a 9 amp battery is not actually getting more than 9 amps, so its not showing!

correct me where i am wrong !!!

Isn't this too much voltage?

19 gauge wire --------------check

12 feet per pole ------------check

Stator voltage at RR input(raw) --------------????????
RR O/P voltage(rectified, regulated) -----------------??????
Any short circuits that are leading to battery drainage -------------???????

fresh 9 amp battery --------check

A regulator should regulate voltage Isn't it? 8v~34v is too much variation and definitely not acceptable. I never has any experience with APE RR regarding its output w/o load but please check for error in RR. Please ask people here in xbhp who use APE RR to post measurements of the output voltage without load and compare. The battery can be checked at the final stage.

If you wish to double check the battery, take out the battery, charge the battery for a night/full day using any >12v1A DC adapter(best option is laptop charger, it produces decent amperage~3 or 4 at 19v only charge for few hours if you use this- 3~4hours) and after the battery is fully charged, connect a load(35/55w bulb) and measure the amperage and time. by this you can assess the health of the battery. saves arguments and headache with the dealer if there is no fault in the battery.

worst thing ever

guys
same battery issues started again.
rode 20kms today with headlamp off..


i used only low beam all the time
didn't need headlight from 2 days too...

19 gauge wire --------------check

12 feet per pole ------------check

fresh 9 amp battery --------check..

what the hell can be wrong now ?????????

even if one changes pilots to leds and rides at avg 4k rpm ?

doc.
okay i agree, but i want to know why...
its 12 feet per pole...

why not, is it falling short?
if in case i do need both on, what's the remedy??

no dude,dont do it.
charging is low,dc wont help.if ride continuously your battery will down within a hour.
sorry punnet,you are wrong in this thing.

yes a h4 55 w will be direct replacement as bike is full dc . should be no trouble for battery unless too much low rpm riding .

tail is already led based in pulsar but you can go for leds in pilot lamps .

yes -if you want to use one hid at a time.

no -if you want to use both hids at a time.

I read that, am asking the real HID package in flesh

Go ahead !!

At your best in missing out the posts I have got the kit in my hand, yet to fix them. Will be up tomorrow.

Let them party, Where's the HID pics man?

Hi All,

I have a Pulsar 180 UG - IV. I have few queries,though you might help.

Below are the specifications from the manual and bajaj web site.

Electrical System12 V Full DCHeadlamp (Low/High Beam- Watts)35/35 W with 2 pilot lamps

1.Can i install H4 bulbs of the rating 60/55 as a direct fit with out changes to wiring ?

2.If Yes,What might be impact on the battary and do i need to change the alternator wiring ?

3.Do any after market LEDS can be fitted in the tails lamps or pilot lamps ?

Thanks.

guys,
if i put up a 35w hid in the p220's reflector for high beam, will i have to face any battery issues??

my coil is perfectly winded.
i use a 9 amp battery.
will it work well if i use it only on highways??

tell me.
as i am thinking of ordering a h7 hid too.

thnx a lot guys....