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Yes,Missed very much.Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Post
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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Thanks a lot Saurabh. Since, you told me to get the engine oil changed. Could you explain what do the mechanic do as in will they open the engine part or something. Will this affect the warranty that comes from Hero? and any specific inclination to the brand of oil you listed?Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View PostOverall :
1)Max speed <60 kmph
2)max RPM : 5000
3)Avoid sudden acceleration (doesnt require practice, matter of habbit
)
4)Smooth throttle and gear shifts at correct RPM (3000-4000) Mileage suitable . Try this in morning with less traffic and empty roads.
5)Check tyre pressure (29 Front, 31/32 Rear)
6)Avoid heavy pillion (Doesnt apply for Gf's
)
7)Dont let anybody feel/know k u r newbie,they can use it against u.
8)Oil change at regular intervals
9)keep loving her and avoid sudden braking on ur ride.
Ride safe and dnt forget to wear helmet if not more

RegardsLast edited by mastiworld; 10-15-2011, 03:14 AM.
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This is because petrol is an unstable substance by nature . If stored for sometime ( especially without agitation ,i.e motionless ) it forms gummy deposits in everything it touches . The fuel tank , filter , fuel-tubes and worse .. inside the carb or fuel injection jets . Moreover with the poor quality and uncertain date of the pertol you may buy retail .. this becomes a more pronounced & potent problem . If already formed .. the only solution is to open & clean everything . In our situation 15days is a good point to start worrying , and one month is when you should get panicky about it .Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Postwhy that sir ?

ps. Long time back , invented during the great war there used to be available , stabilizer tablets which you could just drop in your fuel tank .. and prevent this exact problem of petrol going stale over a short time . During war petrol gets scarce and storage times could not be ensured . Desperate times calls for desperate remedies . Naturally everyone has forgotten all about this now
.
Yes .. perfectly right . This takes the max weight of the bike off the wheel & tyres . Also fully inflate the tyres . Drain all petrol from the bike including the little bit that is inside the carb float bowl and fuel lines by opening the carb-drain-screw . Cover the bike suitably & secure with locks & chain .Originally posted by Arjun_shetty View PostIMO its better to park the bike on main stand during long haults...your opinion sir?
Yes , well done . I was not expecting any difference from these standard service items , but suggested you do these so that you may not have any consequent trouble when you execute the second partOriginally posted by cbz_edge View Postsir...
i got my chain lubricated today....changed engine oil ...hh 10w30
but still dint find any difference in exhaust note....at 1st gear when it reaches 10-11 it starts screamin for gear change....similarly at 20 in 2nd gear and at 30 in 3rd gear...at 40 in 4th gear....after 60 ...i wont say its very smooth bt its a bit better....n yes before 1st service i grnerally drove in heavy traffic at 10-15-20 kph...but after 400km i usually drove it on highways....
n 1 more thing....i have nt opened the carburreter....does adjustment in idle rpm screw makes the mixture lean or rich???n do suggest wot to do??
. That is,open her up to 80-95 , in a very deliberate and controlled manner . Clean the paper air-filter element too with blasts of compressed air inside out & refit . Crawling like that in heavy traffic like that during the first few hundred kilometers of a bike is the classic way to glaze the cylinder . i.e improper run-in . So now try the second part I suggested you without further delay . No need to open carb yet . Just have it tuned to normal values by the ASC if possible .
Yes , adjusting the idle screw also rich-ens or leans the fuel-air mix , other than adjusting the idle rpm of the engine ... but only in the idle-circuit of the carb .. which comes to play mainly when you start up the bike and riding at low throttle . As you open up the throttle .. the role of the idle-circuit is overcome by the pilot & main circuits thereafter in increments . The so-called AFR screw on the other hand , either increases/decreases the fuel orifice, or increases/decreases the air orifice (depending on the design of that particular carb) .. thereby affects the AFR setting of the carb, as a whole(all circuits) .Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View PostNo,Mix is adjusting by adjusting the Air Fuel Screw on the carburetor.
No connection with idle rpm screw.Last edited by Pinaki; 10-15-2011, 01:47 AM.
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hey give some details wot u did ....it would be really helpfulOriginally posted by Kalli12 View Postdont worry about this.....happened before for me too used to scream at 11-12 the bike needs to settle down....just keep on ticking the clock...it will be alright....now it doesnt scream till 16kph in 1st gear
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There is a nut beneath ur engine for the oil change.its the only thing that has to be opened for oil change, nutthing else is to be opened/changed for that. u can very well go for the oil change at outside.Originally posted by mastiworld View PostThanks a lot Saurabh. Since, you told me to get the engine oil changed. Could you explain what do the mechanic do as in will they open the engine part or something. Will this affect the warranty that comes from Hero? and any specific inclination to the brand of oil you listed?
my previous fav was castrol but ever since i have used Shell Ax3 i m loving it even more. MOTUL is considered as best among all,get it if u can. Otherwise Elf/castrol/shell are a good brands for engine oil.
by the way u will have to change it again pretty soon(as wat would be suggest to u by most of us
) so choose accordingly. if u use 10W30 instead of 20W40 u may have to change the oil in run-in period slightly earlier as compared to 20w40.
Regardssigpic
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I Dream, I Dare, I Do !!
<< 100Rabh N3gi!! >>
My Ride : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/itssaurabh-negi-albums-my-new-sweetheart.html
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Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View PostAccelerating hard in each gear.
Me and my friend tried it his ZMA-R,and we managed to hit 90kmph on 3rd gear(me 90 + him 100kg)
Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Poston a straight road,try upshifting at higher RPM's (say @ 7500)
tested
just for once or twice
see the first quote above. Aneesh did it with 190 Kgs(rider+pillion)/220 CC(ZMA), i did 20 KMPH less but only 65 Kg/150 CC.so its fairly possible.Originally posted by anush View Postno way there is no such relation. what you are talking has no logic.
shift in 1st gear @ 7000 rpm = 35 Kmph
shift in 2nd gear @ 7000 rpm = 50 Kmph
shift in 3rd gear @ 7000 rpm = 70 Kmph
just did it to open up my engine a lil bit,only twice so far.aint suggested to do so often.
wat about riding @ 15 kmph in 5th gear ??
sigpic
_______________________________________________
I Dream, I Dare, I Do !!
<< 100Rabh N3gi!! >>
My Ride : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/itssaurabh-negi-albums-my-new-sweetheart.html
My Photography : https://www.facebook.com/seeclickshare
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just avoid heavy traffic IF POSSIBLE,try to upshift at optimal RPM (4000-5000), smooth acceleeration/deacceleration should minimize these issues with time and ODO readingsOriginally posted by cbz_edge View Posthey give some details wot u did ....it would be really helpful
.
sigpic
_______________________________________________
I Dream, I Dare, I Do !!
<< 100Rabh N3gi!! >>
My Ride : http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/members/itssaurabh-negi-albums-my-new-sweetheart.html
My Photography : https://www.facebook.com/seeclickshare
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Never do this method for opening the engine.Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Postshift in 1st gear @ 7000 rpm = 35 Kmph
shift in 2nd gear @ 7000 rpm = 50 Kmph
shift in 3rd gear @ 7000 rpm = 70 Kmph
just did it to open up my engine a lil bit,only twice so far.aint suggested to do so often.[/B]
Ride normally on 5th gear accelerate and take it to 100 and then back to normal.The above mentioned method will create strain on engine.
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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dude what I'm saying is whatever rpm you upshift at. At a particular gear and rpm the bike will have a particular speed and it does not depend on what rpm you have upshifted. And it does depend on gearing and for sure ZMA and xtreme have different gearing.Originally posted by itssaurabh.negi View Postsee the first quote above. Aneesh did it with 190 Kgs(rider+pillion)/220 CC(ZMA), i did 20 KMPH less but only 65 Kg/150 CC.so its fairly possible.
shift in 1st gear @ 7000 rpm = 35 Kmph
shift in 2nd gear @ 7000 rpm = 50 Kmph
shift in 3rd gear @ 7000 rpm = 70 Kmph
just did it to open up my engine a lil bit,only twice so far.aint suggested to do so often.
wat about riding @ 15 kmph in 5th gear ??
Last edited by anush; 10-15-2011, 03:48 PM.First think you are special then work towards proving it.
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guys help others to understand CBz....
pls update the following data as per owner experience..
total kms cover : 4000 kms
total time perios : 4 months
approx milage : 55 kmpl
any majar issue faced : Not yet
suggestion (If Any) : ......................................................................
Hero Honda CBZ X-Treme....2011
.................................................. ...............
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I went to the nearby service center to see if they could do the oil change themselves (since, I had to get the foot peddle (for elderly women) installed as well). They were very adamant and told me to get oil changed only in the first service. They also told me not get it done outside as it might affect engine's lifeOriginally posted by itssaurabh.negi View PostThere is a nut beneath ur engine for the oil change.its the only thing that has to be opened for oil change, nutthing else is to be opened/changed for that. u can very well go for the oil change at outside.
my previous fav was castrol but ever since i have used Shell Ax3 i m loving it even more. MOTUL is considered as best among all,get it if u can. Otherwise Elf/castrol/shell are a good brands for engine oil.
by the way u will have to change it again pretty soon(as wat would be suggest to u by most of us
) so choose accordingly. if u use 10W30 instead of 20W40 u may have to change the oil in run-in period slightly earlier as compared to 20w40.
Regards
All the while, reading xBHP, I read that engine oil change has no side effects and these so called SVC people say it'll hamper it?
Even they don't have that foot peddle in stock for this bike.
Does this bike even has such a foot peddle? also what about the seat covers?
I need to get this things done asap but these SVC people
Last edited by mastiworld; 10-15-2011, 05:30 PM.
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Originally posted by bikekrazy View Postguys help others to understand CBz....
pls update the following data as per owner experience..
total kms cover : 4000 kms
total time perios : 4 months
approx milage : 55 kmpl
any majar issue faced : Not yet
suggestion (If Any) : .........................
Wow really great mileage you getting my friendsigpic
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total kms cover : 1750 kms
total time perios : 1 and half months
approx milage : 42 kmpl
any majar issue faced : Milage is a major issue
My rpm slow speed while idle is set to 1. drive with in 50kmph. I dont know why i am getting this much low milage. Every one getting 45+ and even 50+
planning to change oil tomorrow which one is good at this km?
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