Hi am facing a weird problem with my 2011 aviator,had installed a new battery in 2020 nov , battery started giving issues today got that replaced, mechanic says that due to self issue battery was being used more and hence the battery issue but my doubt won't it get recharged while running,
another problem is light is too low but if I press horn or turn indicator the headlight turns bright (when horn is pressed or indicator turns on (usually when indicator is turned on the light dims a bit but it's opposite happening ) due to which the bulb is too dim and unable to ride at night.
Any help would be appreciated for the 2 problems
Thanks

can't say for sure without inspecting the parts. you can clean the parts with petrol, no issues. torque wrench, meh..if you can use your common sense/experience.. otherwise let the professionals handle it. use original parts if available for peace of mind. a new bore kit from hero is around Rs.2500.

you missed listing the valves. make sure the valve-train related parts such as valves/valve oil seal (these usually come as a single kit), valve guides (if required) are replaced.. the valve springs will usually not need replacement. and the new valves have to be ground to make sure they are seating and sealing properly.. this work usually a lathe shop can help you.. i got my valves replaced/ground at a lathe workshop.

Last week, I finally had some engine work done on my 14yr old Dio that has crossed 85k km... Over the past year it had a bit of cold start issues, and setting the valve clearance used to fix it, only to repeat again in a couple of months.. the clearances got tighter leading to a loss of compression and in turn cold starting trouble.. It finally came down to not at all idling and i then decided to go ahead and replace the valves. The intake valve was worn out leading to poor sealing resulting in poor compression. The valve guides, oil seals and the block piston were intact and no oil consumption was observed. the valves were relatively 'clean' due to my timely oil changes (as i have always said any decent brand is good as long as you change the oil every 3k km approx)
So went ahead with a new valve kit (Valves + oil seals), new head gasket.. and along with that changed the engine foundation bushes and cleaned the piston top of some carbon deposits. All original parts used. Old Intake valve on right, exhaust on left.
after the valve job, the performance is back to the normal peppy nature of the dio.. zips around effortlessly once again.

Has anyone used NMW big bore kit(55mm) for activa? Kindly guide me what are the other components to be changed if i am converting to bigbore. Also is it possible to make the gearing little more taller like that of suzuki access?
Also anyone tried installing activa 6g telescopic fork in older activa? Hope it would be a direct fit.

Hello Everyone,
I own a Hero Maestro and have completed about 36,000 km till date. The scooter has been really taken care of. The oil has always been replaced at 1500km intervals, yet a few days ago my engine seized up. I still don't know what was the culprit behind the engine seizure(guessing it to be a failed oil pump or gasket material blockage in the oil galleries). The oil level was between the max and the minimum marks when the engine seized. I have decided to fix this engine on my own as I don't think any mechanic will be able to give as much love and care as I can do. So I have a few questions for the respective owners here:-

1. I have decided to replace the following parts once I open up the engine-
a. Bore/Piston kit
b. Oil Pump
c. Timing Chain/Gear
d. Valve Seals
e. Exhaust Rocker Arm(needle bearings have some very minor marks)
f. Crankshaft(if it has failed too)
g. Valve Cover Gasket(old one was anyways leaking)
h. Secondary Air Filter(It has swollen up from being washed by petrol)
i. Valve Cover Oil seals

Are these all or I should be looking for something more?

2. Also I don't really want to go with the lathe option, I would rather replace everything for complete peace of mind, so should I be going with Hero's genuine bore/piston kit or Goetze kit will do? Also, I'm confused if I should buy Activa's Bore/Piston kit since the engine is almost identical to that of Activa(Although it does makes a bit more power and torque than Activa)

3. Is torque wrench really a necessity for this build? I've never seen any mechanic using a torque wrench on these engines and hence the confusion. Also, I'm currently on a budget so torque wrench might be a bit of a stretch for me.

4. I have found the service manual from Honda for Activa. I guess it should be applicable to Maestro as well.

5. Also can someone suggest to me the best way to clean everything? Will gasoline do or I will have to get something else? I know gasoline is not compatible with rubber seals and o rings and will be taking special care of that.

And here are some pictures of the Engine:-






Thank You,
Abhishek.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

LED Projector installation step by step process.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

i am no expert lol.
have you added any extra accessories (horns, lights etc.. ) / wiring ??

for the battery, do get it tested at a local battery shop/mechanic or if you have a multi-meter you can run some basic tests.
with the scooter ignition off, the voltage should read around 12.7~13V approx for a normal fully charged battery. Anything lower than 12.3 V might indicate a battery that is not fully charged. so maybe charge the battery up at a local battery shop, and then run the next couple of tests.

next start the scooter and check the voltage at idle.. usually the voltage should go up by approx 0.3-0.5V (vs the reading taken when ignition is off).
then rev the engine up to around 4000rpm (around 1/4th-1/2 of the throttle) and hold.. check the voltage, it should rise by approx 1.2V.
If the voltage isn't rising up (or increasing too much) with the engine fired up then there could be a problem with the RR (regulator-rectifier unit) or the stator coil. You could swap the rr unit with a known good unit to check if possible. As for the coil, it is possible to check it too with a multimeter but i'd leave that to your mechanic to check.

if these readings check out, then you can also get the battery load tested at a local battery shop or svc where they usually have a battery tester. it is not common for a battery to fail so early but rare cases could happen.

as for the cold start, it is ok during cold early morning starts to require a choke.. but if every cold start during the day is requiring the choke and multiple start attempts, then i'd suggest you getting the valve clearances (tappet adjustment) checked. an inlet valve with less to nil clearance will cause cold starting issues. easy way to know if the clearance is too tight, is by gently trying to use the kick starter to crank the engine.. you should feel a slight resistance as you use the kick starter which indicates the engine is developing good compression.. if there is hardly any resistance then the valves aren't closing fully causing a leak in compression and hence the starting issue. contrary to what some people think, the valve clearances in many cases get tighter on these bikes/scooters which cause starting issues and poor performance.

for now.. try these and let us know. and then we'll see what else needs to be checked based on your findings.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Activa 2013 HET Battery dies within 2-3 days, if not started and run daily. 6 month old Amaron battery.

After this interval, it also requires choke for starting and warm-up.
[MENTION=16602]s1d[/MENTION], awaiting your expert opinion.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Nice restoration work on the body. yes the engine is bullet proof.. facing similar body panels damage on my dio. planning to replace the entire panel kit since its fiber and not metal like the activa. Will cost around 10k for all the panels
also the front end suspension on my dio needs an overhaul with new link and suspension bushes +wheel bearings (been close to 14yrs now on stock bearing and suspension bushes). the symptoms are wobbly front end, especially at speeds greater than 45kmph.. noticing a tank slap kind of shake in the bars! on spinning the front wheel noticing that it spins with a 'grinding' noise. have got hold of the bearing and suspension bush, but finding the oem link bush kit has been difficult.
the reason it lasted 14yrs is because at every service the front suspension components were cleaned and greased.. otherwise expect to change these parts in 2-3yrs. the svc will never touch the front suspension during services. if you complain of a squeak from the front end, they will simply replace the bushes (which cost around 550rs in total for the link and suspension)

As for tires, you can try the Apollo Actigrip S3 90/100 -10 .. it is available in tube type.. costs around 1200rs including tube. I am using this tire currently and extremely happy with it. Nice grip all around. Been 2 yrs 8000km on this tire and still has plenty of life left and grip is still good.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Snap of UR3DI30

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Today fitted a Bosch plug UR3DI30 in Activa 110 HET. Results:

^^ Irregular idling problem solved immediately. Idling at uniform rate now without any hiccups/ shutdowns.

^^ Idling rate improved drastically, had to close Air Screw 1/4 turns & open Idle Screw 1/2 turns. Still the IDLE speed appears fast. Will re-tune Carb after a week. Should reflect in improved mileage.

^^ Plug is now white, earlier it was Smoke black mixed with white shade.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

It has been very very long time since i have posted anything here on the forum. But passion will always get you back to where you belong. A lot has happened and changed over the time however one thing i can be sure is ACTIVA WILL NEVER GET OLD !!! Yes i am here to share with you all an ACTIVA RESTORATION story in PICTURES ! Yes, i will not bug you guys straight away i will let the pictures dictate the story along with the COST !!! Yes No hidden terms simply all the costs right after the pictures.



This is a 2010 BS III Activa DLX model cracked and abused heavily. It has ttracted lot of RUSTs everywhere on the body and on the wheels and MAJORLY on footboard but ENGINE is still in great condition. The job was done by totally dismantling and colouring in and out SPECIALLY TO PROTECT FROM RUSTING. It took about 15 Days to get back yes ! Some people re not professional but they do the job BEST !

Now The Important Part i.e Cost !

Total 14455 (Approx include misc exp of 500 comes to 15000)
Paint Job about - 5000 (Chassis Colouring included)
Denting and Welding Jobs + Assembly Disassembly - 4500
One RHS Front metal panel changed - 990
Broken Front Headlight Cowl - 450
Broken Nose Plastic Cover - 400
Oil Motul 10w30 Mineral and Minda air Filter - 425
Rusted steel Wheel - 450
Stickers 3G - 300
New Activa NUT BOLT set - 450
Petrol Pipe - 70
Damaged wiring Harness back light - 220
Number Plate - 200
New Front Cone set and Assembly - 1000

Planed Upgrades

New Body guard 1000
New CEAT MILAZE Tyre 1200 (You can suggest for better WET GRIP)

In all HONDA IS HONDA !!! Engine never gets old and instead of Buying New one i went for RESTORATION and loved every inch of it.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Has anyone used gulf pride scooter 10w30 engine oil ?

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Makes sense since I got an engine flush done and it literally didn’t do anything and infact the engine was rough for a few days 😂😂😂

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

No. Not at all required even if you switch between fully synthetic and mineral. These additive and flushes are only promoted by some Youtubers. They are a waste of money. You can invest that money in a few liters of petrol or a liter of engine oil. In very cold regions, people regularly use light oils in winter and switch to heavier ones in summer.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator


Front suspension you cant do anything , rear one you can switch to TVS jupiters suspension.

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Random doubt, do i need to flush my scooter if i want to switch back to 10w30 from 20w40?