finally changed the front brake pads on my 2014 d200 at close to 42k km.. so long was on the stock pads (which were 'swapped' under warranty with new ones at around 7k km, to rule out brake noise).. the stock pads still had 70% material left ! but the brake feel wasn't good and sometimes would emit a squeaking sound on braking, cleaning the rotor/pads with some soapy water or a sandpaper rub would result in the sound disappearing for a couple of weeks only to start again.
i decided to try the nikavi brake pads due to positive reviews from other friends who have used this brand on their bikes, i am NOT recommending or advocating people to use this non oem brand, do so at your own risk.. stick to oem if you want to play safe. Link to the nikavi pads (and no i dont make money if you buy thru this link). https://www.amazon.in/NIKAVI-Front-D.../dp/B08KZM4JD4

Supposed to be a sintered type.. could see some good amount "metal flakes" in the pad material.. and even the existing oem pads looked similar but with smaller and fewer such metal flakes. beyond this i cant say much about its composition by just looking at it. They even go to the extent of using the same part number as the EBC brakes (FA606HH) .Cost is almost same either oem or nikavi(paid some 280rs for nikavi).

anyway, went ahead and replaced them today. make sure you use a torx T27 bit to remove the brake pad retaining bolt, and not a similar sized regular hex allen to prevent rounding off the bolt. torx t30 will also fit but a bit 'tight' fit, but avoid regular hex allen. toolkit used taparia torx bits. while refitting use a very tiny dab of grease on the brake pad retaining bolt thread to prevent it from seizing/making removal next time easier. i had to use a bit of wd40 and some force to open it.. because the bolt seems to be steel and the caliper aluminium, it could rust/seize up. i rubbed the new brake pads a couple of times on some 320 grit sandpaper prior to installing them.

I had already bled the brakes and replaced the fluid a couple of days ago using TVS DOT 4 Fluid (90 bucks for a 250ml bottle, mrp 108).. but this did not improve the brake feel/bite. fluid being replaced after 3yrs. rear fluid had turned brown, while front fluid was still close to the original golden color, emptied out both the fluids and added new fluid+bleeding.


my initial feedback after the new nikavi pads is positive , back to how sharp the brakes felt when the bike was new, the bite and feel is great. hope they don't disappoint or chew the front rotor, though the front rotor is cheap, last time i checked around 900rs (cheaper than some other companies brake pads themselves) lol. I hope this Indian manufacturer doesn't disappoint as an aftermarket alternative. The pad dimensions and fit was perfect unlike certain other local brands (i've Seen on other bikes )

I hope this good performance continues, will update after a few months of using these new pads over a couple 1000kms ..
sorry couldnt take pics of the process.. but am sure plenty videos are available on the web detailing brake pad replacement. unable to upload the pics due to size limits. you can see the pics (old pads and the nikavi box, sorry dint click pic of the nikavi pads) at the below links:

When you increase the throttle and raise RPM a small part of AC component also is present across the battery. You can check this by keeping the Multimeter in AC range 200 volts and check.
Before buying and using new batteries check how old it is.ie., when it was manufactured and the time between manufacturing date and your use date. Batteries slowly sulfate and loose ability to charge over period of rest. A battery with more than 3 to 4 months in shelf is likely to become incapable of taking higher charge compared to one which is just a month of shelf life. For this same reason it is advised to start and run engine on idle or on the road for 10 minutes once in 4 days . If the Vehicle is to be parked for long time, then it is a good idea to remove the Battery and put it on battery Tender, or on a Trickle charge till use.
Good Luck.

Thanks for pointing in the right direction. I appreciate your help.

We had a similar though and had a lot of fun yesterday. I brought home my friend's bike and tried the same on it. Its behaving the same as mine. When I started and blipped it after warming up, the battery voltage dropped too but not as low as mine.

We checked the stator on my bike and his. There is no short to ground. Resistance is around 1 ohm on the terminals on both the bikes.
We exchanged the batteries and now his bike dipped to around 10-11v. But after a bit of idling, it started to climb up just like mine did. My bike (with his battery) however ran fine. Voltage dip was similar to the other bike. I sent the battery for charging today.

Our deduction - While the battery is new, it needs charging. Battery in Dukes work like reservoir and assist the rectifier in providing current when needed (pretty similar to capacitors). When engine is running on constant RPMs, it charges the battery again. Rectifier was pushing charge to a low battery while running the system. Since the battery was not holding enough charge, average system voltage came to low levels too. When taxed with spirited riding, more current need dropped the voltage even further leading the main relay to disengage.

To add to what Kiran has already mentioned, and considering the age of your motorcycle 2016, I'd strongly recommend you to inspect your motorcycle charging system i.e. the stator coil and the rectifier. The rectifier works almost the moment you start the bike and till you stop the bike. When I read your voltage readings above, especially at 6k plus RPM, the voltage should increase proportionate to the RPM and hold steady at a voltage reading with +- a couple of Mv fluctuation. Considering the 10v reading at that high RPM, the battery is providing the current to the electricals while not being charged up or is being charged intermittently hence the random stall. Some bikes throw up a low voltage sign coupled with a JG warning sign for a low battery, some bikes give up on the road just like that.

It's about time a faulty charging system will drain a new battery and eventually lead to more trouble. Get it inspected at your SVC for a thorough diagnoses.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks for the prompt reply. I really appreciate it.

I check the connections. Took me quite a while to dig in and check. I found wiring to be firmly attached. No breakage or corrosion at the connectors or otherwise. One more thing I noticed - when I started the bike in the morning, I attached a multimeter to the battery. It measured close to 12.8V. I put in the key, started it and let it idle for a while. When I twist the accelerator to about 5000-6000 RPM, the battery voltage dropped close to 10v. It starts to climb up after idling a while and settled to 14.1 to 14.2v. After a few minute or so of idling the engine, when I did this again, the voltage remained to be at 14.1v and did not dip when I blipped over 8000 rpm. So I went out, stopped for while at a shop nearby and as soon as I started it and began to move, bike stalled and console rebooted. Didn't happen again till I reached my office.

Does the Rectifier fire up only after a while of starting or maybe at/after certain time and rpm?
I feel I too should check the Stator which seems simple. I don't know how to check the rectifier/regulator however. As stated before, battery is brand new.

I've got other bikes and only ride the Duke 2-3 days a week; specially now since I am not that confident of the electrical system anymore and don't want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Check for the wiring and for loose contacts near battery box, fuse box in-out and relay in-out area. Due to fatigue and heat over time, wires contacts do tend to break or rust.

I too had a similar issue where one of the fuel pump relay wires was holding on by a single strand and another wire going out of the fuse was fully broken off, did a proper re-soldering off all wires and sealed with a heat shrink wrap.

Hello folks. Similar problem here.
I have a Duke 200 (2016). My bike has started to shuts off randomly. I noticed this started to happen after I took it out of storage when traffic was allowed during lockdown. The console reboots when this happens. Fuel pump stays quiet however. I installed a new 9Ah battery just a few days back because the old one was 2.5 years old and it died one day. Bike is still doing this randomly, specially when I start the bike start picking up. The engine stalls and console reboots. This does not happen when am riding at normal riding speed (30-60km/hr). Problem is that am not able to recreate the same at service station.
Charger seems to be working. Battery reads 14.2 volts when the engine is running.
Throttle body was cleaned recently but injector was not removed.
Idling is not rough and pretty stable.
No tampering has been done wit the wiring. Its a stock unit without any bells and whistles ever attached.

What should I check? Any input is appreciated.
Thanks and regards...

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Has anyone tried installing the mirrors from the newer Dominar? They look great and are damped but apparently they're not a direct fit and require some tinkering. Has anyone done it or seen any thread about it?

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Ah I see what's happening. So say the bike is running below 5K rpm and once you reach 5K+ rpm the rpm drops to 0 and speed also shoes 0kmph! If you again go below 5K rpm then the rpm and speedo comes back fine normal..

If this is the case, then this is the clear sign of dying stator. Eventually the whole stator fails.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Checked the stator. It's showing short circuit to ground. Will have it replaced first.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Yes, exactly what I thought. If the bike was not starting earlier and with a new battery it started just fine indicates ECU, Stator, Ignition coils, Fuel pump are perfectly O.K.

RR unit is not able to put charge back into the battery when its operation and eventually battery voltage drops without battery getting charged when vehicle is running.
Get it replaced and bike should just run fine.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

The battery was dead. Replaced it just now. Bike started fine but did not go for a run.

Then increased the RPM and to my surprise the voltage was dropping when increasing RPM. It dropped to 7V! Higher the revs then higher is the voltage drop. Will go crawling to a mechanic tomorrow.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

most likely a faulty rr unit. do you see the check engine light flash ? i came across a duke with a similar issue at the svc, it had a blink code (don't remember the code pattern), it was fixed by replacing the rr unit.
bike was not cranking ? maybe the battery is low on charge because the rr unit conked off and did not charge the battery.
worse case, it could be the stator coil again along with the rr unit. Do get it checked at the svc.

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Two things, either your stator coil/RR is at fault or your battery is giving up, or a good battery not being charged due to the faulty former two components. A voltage check at the battery terminals will yield the right result. Idling trouble comes down to a couple of things, faulty stepper motor, clogged/fuel filter throttle body and or faulty fuel pump providing poor rail pressure or just simply old and fouled fuel. If your bike has been parked for months, chance are very high your fuel might have rotten causing idling and misfiring. Remove the old fuel and use fresh fuel, and observe if it helps.

Cheers
VJ

Re: KTM 200 Duke

Does the bike reset, all lights go off and come back while trying cranking?
If yes, then its the RR/Alternator unit. Period.

Get the battery charged outside, put it back and try to start it, if it starts on 1st try. Then its definitely the RR unit.