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**ashwinprakas** · 02-20-2019, 12:54 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

That's one tall order for us KTM-ians to process and digest, but I'd love to hear more on this one. The measurement from the swing arm pivot to the wheel can be taken, the hub and finer details would need to be measured correctly. I'd suggest paint the rim orange as most Kulsar fan boys do to make their rides look royal. Well, it's cheap, cost effective and well in the end both are kinda Bajaj, that gives one a satiated feel doesn't it.

Cheers!
VJ

Tall order indeed, there's a YouTube video of a dude using KTM Alloy on Pulsar 220, but he jugaad's the spacer by cutting it, I was hoping for a direct replacement as the intent is even if I wreck the motorcycle while riding in a far away land I'd be able to get it rebuilt at the nearest SVC without a hassle, hence why I'm strictly sticking to Stock Bajaj/KTM parts.

I'd be even more happy if the NS Alloy and Spacer was a direct fit as some Bajaj SVC's don't stock KTM spares and the very few independent KTM outlets are adamant when it comes to selling spares over the counter.

As for aesthetics, I really couldn't care less if the wheel came unpainted, plus you knowing me I'd never spend a penny on looks anyway.

Problem is the stock rim is pathetic at 2.5 inches, irrespective of whether I use the stock 120 or upsize 150 the contact patch more or less remains the same, which wasn't an issue before raising the front, but now I depend more on the rear brake and with the top box loaded it tends to break traction way more than I'd like it to, especially when wet.

Hence why the urge to upsize rim.

Here's the video of the dude with KTM Rim on P220, the color of the rim seems is black rather than orange;

**ayrus** · 02-20-2019, 03:35 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Tall order indeed, there's a YouTube video of a dude using KTM Alloy on Pulsar 220, but he jugaad's the spacer by cutting it, I was hoping for a direct replacement as the intent is even if I wreck the motorcycle while riding in a far away land I'd be able to get it rebuilt at the nearest SVC without a hassle, hence why I'm strictly sticking to Stock Bajaj/KTM parts.

I'd be even more happy if the NS Alloy and Spacer was a direct fit as some Bajaj SVC's don't stock KTM spares and the very few independent KTM outlets are adamant when it comes to selling spares over the counter.

As for aesthetics, I really couldn't care less if the wheel came unpainted, plus you knowing me I'd never spend a penny on looks anyway.

Problem is the stock rim is pathetic at 2.5 inches, irrespective of whether I use the stock 120 or upsize 150 the contact patch more or less remains the same, which wasn't an issue before raising the front, but now I depend more on the rear brake and with the top box loaded it tends to break traction way more than I'd like it to, especially when wet.

Hence why the urge to upsize rim.

Here's the video of the dude with KTM Rim on P220, the color of the rim seems is black rather than orange;

I suggest going for NS200 rim. It is 3.5" and will offer better contact patch. I think a wider rim may have clearance issues with swingarm, chain or any other component (I may be wrong here).

You can also try the Dominar rim as it has the same spec as KTM rims but must be available in Bajaj SVCs. Whether any of them is a direct fit is the bigger question here.

**B7ACKTHORN** · 02-20-2019, 04:42 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Tall order indeed, there's a YouTube video of a dude using KTM Alloy on Pulsar 220, but he jugaad's the spacer by cutting it, I was hoping for a direct replacement as the intent is even if I wreck the motorcycle while riding in a far away land I'd be able to get it rebuilt at the nearest SVC without a hassle, hence why I'm strictly sticking to Stock Bajaj/KTM parts.

I'd be even more happy if the NS Alloy and Spacer was a direct fit as some Bajaj SVC's don't stock KTM spares and the very few independent KTM outlets are adamant when it comes to selling spares over the counter.

As for aesthetics, I really couldn't care less if the wheel came unpainted, plus you knowing me I'd never spend a penny on looks anyway.

Problem is the stock rim is pathetic at 2.5 inches, irrespective of whether I use the stock 120 or upsize 150 the contact patch more or less remains the same, which wasn't an issue before raising the front, but now I depend more on the rear brake and with the top box loaded it tends to break traction way more than I'd like it to, especially when wet.

Hence why the urge to upsize rim.

Here's the video of the dude with KTM Rim on P220, the color of the rim seems is black rather than orange;

Thanks for the video, didn't come across such one. Interesting things I found out with this video was apart from the spacer, it seems as though the rim profile with the old tire wasn't much of a hindrance to the swingarm which he's mentioned. Apart from shaving off a few mm off the spacer, it seems as though it's a direct fit for the most part, including the damper set. What piques my interest is the hub, as much as I can see he's used the old 220 hub/sprocket kit to the wheel, can be seen before he does the burn out

Secondly, a cheap workaround would be to head to your nearest Bajaj Showroom, ask them for spacers for both 220 and NS 200 this should visually give you a cue as to whether it's interchangeable or not. At least it gives us a base to start off.

My hunch is that since the Duke Rims were a neat swap, at least according to the video, the NS 200 shouldn't be much different either,same diameter and what not. But, beware NS 200 rim spokes are thin, and fragile. Not as strong as the 220s that can take the abuse. Since your setup is a weighted more towards the rear, recommend you to bear that in mind too. A crappy pothole at the wrong speed, and boom!

My observations to refresh

Spacer shaved off >> check with your local SVC for both NS and 220 or D200 spacers. If NS and Dukes are interchangeable, then you know what to do.
Damper cush drive. The Dukes have six lug nuts, the 220 has four lug nuts. The 390 has six hub arms, the 220 has 4, which should be interesting.
The rear brake rotor both have the same rotor mm, so that shouldn't be a problem per se, again not clear in the video.

The finer details have all been missed. But what I feel is, it shouldn't be much a trouble swapping the wheels of either the Duke series or the NS series.

Keep your observations posted.

Cheers!
VJ

**ashwinprakas** · 02-21-2019, 01:36 AM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ayrus View Post

I suggest going for NS200 rim. It is 3.5" and will offer better contact patch. I think a wider rim may have clearance issues with swingarm, chain or any other component (I may be wrong here).

You can also try the Dominar rim as it has the same spec as KTM rims but must be available in Bajaj SVCs. Whether any of them is a direct fit is the bigger question here.

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Secondly, a cheap workaround would be to head to your nearest Bajaj Showroom, ask them for spacers for both 220 and NS 200 this should visually give you a cue as to whether it's interchangeable or not. At least it gives us a base to start off.

My hunch is that since the Duke Rims were a neat swap, at least according to the video, the NS 200 shouldn't be much different either,same diameter and what not. But, beware NS 200 rim spokes are thin, and fragile. Not as strong as the 220s that can take the abuse. Since your setup is a weighted more towards the rear, recommend you to bear that in mind too. A crappy pothole at the wrong speed, and boom!

My observations to refresh

Spacer shaved off >> check with your local SVC for both NS and 220 or D200 spacers. If NS and Dukes are interchangeable, then you know what to do.
Damper cush drive. The Dukes have six lug nuts, the 220 has four lug nuts. The 390 has six hub arms, the 220 has 4, which should be interesting.
The rear brake rotor both have the same rotor mm, so that shouldn't be a problem per se, again not clear in the video.

The finer details have all been missed. But what I feel is, it shouldn't be much a trouble swapping the wheels of either the Duke series or the NS series.

Thanks guys, will start with the spacer first since it being the cheapest part of them all.

A dear friend offered a P220 spacer to cut but I refused as I prefer to stick to stock.

I'll carry the remaining discussion in the P220 thread as I believe that would be appropriate.

@KTM Guys,
Sorry for taking things off-topic.

**Rahul.V.** · 02-23-2019, 06:39 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Hello guys,
Recently I've noticed that whenever I fully pull the clutch lever there is a sound from the engine like some metal object is stuck in the engine, only when pulled and released...not very loud but once observed keenly it'll be herd.
Another issue is that post 8k rpm there is some sort noise noticed from the engine area like some metal grinding or something like crushing sound.
Help me out guy's.

**ashwanth.r** · 02-23-2019, 07:00 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Piston rings can sometimes expand not having enough tension in them, leading to engine oil consumption and compression loss. Remember it's the rings that hold the compression in place. Those little rings have to take in 3x the load, size for size. Cheers! VJ

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Its customary, if you take the head off you'll have to replace Ring's as well as other gaskets and seals, saves you a lot of moolah and trouble in the future.We did just the same when rebuilding a fellow xBhpians CBZ that's under my care.

Is it necessary to roughen the cylinder walls a little bit with a boring machine or can new rings be fitted and run-in just like that if the cylinder and piston is okay (no scars, burn marks, etc) ? TIA !

**ashwinprakas** · 02-23-2019, 07:48 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

Is it necessary to roughen the cylinder walls a little bit with a boring machine or can new rings be fitted and run-in just like that if the cylinder and piston is okay (no scars, burn marks, etc) ? TIA !

Query-back: Is re-crosshatching/honing still a thing with cylinders being Nikasil coated these days?

As for my personal experience the CBZ at hand simply had new rings put in.

Edit: Just recalled having a look at a brand new Pulsar 180 Cylinder kit today, and I'm not sure if its my failing memory but I do not recall seeing any distinct honing marks on the cylinder surface, but then it wasn't as glazing as a worn cylinder. The reason I'd picked up the kit in the first place was to look at the pricing which was under 2.3k

So do consider my observation with a pinch of salt as I wasn't specifically looking for honing marks.

**ashwanth.r** · 02-23-2019, 08:12 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Query-back: Is re-crosshatching/honing still a thing with cylinders being Nikasil coated these days?

Thanks for bringing it up, I learnt something new. Didn't know about Nikasil coating until you said it, I guess they can't be re-honed.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

As for my personal experience the CBZ at hand simply had new rings put in.

My query was more in keeping with bikes/scooters like these (now that I know 390 has Nikasil). My concern was whether the "valleys" that hold oil will still be there or will be swept off by the new rings (over dramatic thinking

, rings are alloys while cylinder lining is usually iron).

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Edit: Just recalled having a look at a brand new Pulsar 180 Cylinder kit today, and I'm not sure if its my failing memory but I do not recall seeing any distinct honing marks on the cylinder surface, but then it wasn't as glazing as a worn cylinder. The reason I'd picked up the kit in the first place was to look at the pricing which was under 2.3k

So do consider my observation with a pinch of salt as I wasn't specifically looking for honing marks.

I can see how Bajaj sold 67k units of 150 in Jan 2019! Reasonable price + easy servicing.

**#bpk** · 02-23-2019, 10:01 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ashwanth.r View Post

Thanks for bringing it up, I learnt something new. Didn't know about Nikasil coating until you said it, I guess they can't be re-honed.

My query was more in keeping with bikes/scooters like these (now that I know 390 has Nikasil). My concern was whether the "valleys" that hold oil will still be there or will be swept off by the new rings (over dramatic thinking

, rings are alloys while cylinder lining is usually iron).

I can see how Bajaj sold 67k units of 150 in Jan 2019! Reasonable price + easy servicing.

Yeah, my brother will buy it soon.

**khaosavz** · 02-23-2019, 10:25 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

UPDATE: Low Oil Pressure issue.

Got my bike back today. I've attached the list of parts that were replaced.

What do you guys think?

Also, I made sure all the fasteners were torqued properly and all the clearances were checked and adjusted.

Do we follow some kind of a break in procedure for running in new piston rings, valves, cam chain and tensioner?

Thanks
Avinash

**SubhashGowda07** · 02-24-2019, 12:59 AM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Okay now I'm really confused, my bike's 5th service is ahead, I've been using motul 300v engine oil for over 5k kms, I was thinking to use the same oil for the next service too, well I've read somewhere that the 300v change interval is too less and meant only for track days. Coming to my confusion part where I really like the 300v performance as I felt the smoothness and power delivery was too good compared to the 7100.

Can someone clarify this please, I'll be using my rc only on weekends and love to redline as I'll be on the highway.

Also please mention the part number for NGK IRIDIUM spark plug.

**Rahul.g** · 02-24-2019, 05:25 AM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by SubhashGowda07 View Post

Okay now I'm really confused, my bike's 5th service is ahead, I've been using motul 300v engine oil for over 5k kms, I was thinking to use the same oil for the next service too, well I've read somewhere that the 300v change interval is too less and meant only for track days. Coming to my confusion part where I really like the 300v performance as I felt the smoothness and power delivery was too good compared to the 7100.

Can someone clarify this please, I'll be using my rc only on weekends and love to redline as I'll be on the highway.

Also please mention the part number for NGK IRIDIUM spark plug.

If you're redlining your bike most of the time then 300v is the oil you should stick to.
I usually drain 300v after every 2000 - 2500 kms

**B7ACKTHORN** · 02-24-2019, 08:02 PM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Query-back: Is re-crosshatching/honing still a thing with cylinders being Nikasil coated these days?

As for my personal experience the CBZ at hand simply had new rings put in.

Edit: Just recalled having a look at a brand new Pulsar 180 Cylinder kit today, and I'm not sure if its my failing memory but I do not recall seeing any distinct honing marks on the cylinder surface, but then it wasn't as glazing as a worn cylinder. The reason I'd picked up the kit in the first place was to look at the pricing which was under 2.3k

So do consider my observation with a pinch of salt as I wasn't specifically looking for honing marks.

Honining is a process as you know is to make sure the surface is as round as possible and spec free as possible. Not only that, the cross hatch pattern itself is important to make sure the oil stays in the surface of the cylinder in a criss-crossed pattern as opposed to nothing which an cause scuffing/scoring. Honing can be done on both CI, steel and NiKaSil or DiAsil liners. It's better to hone a new cylinder and then install it, if not cross-hatched.

Originally posted by Rahul.V. View Post

Hello guys,
Recently I've noticed that whenever I fully pull the clutch lever there is a sound from the engine like some metal object is stuck in the engine, only when pulled and released...not very loud but once observed keenly it'll be herd.
Another issue is that post 8k rpm there is some sort noise noticed from the engine area like some metal grinding or something like crushing sound.
Help me out guy's.

If you feel the sound changing mildly when the clutch is engaged and disengaged that's normal. A mild change in sound is okay, but if you hear distinct change in sound with a rattle noise or a mild cluttery sound, it's time to replace your clutch basket. It's developed play and this will only worsen. At that RPM, the engine will sound a little harsher which is again normal, nothing to worry about. If you've closed more than 15k on your bike, it's time to inspect your shims/cam chain tensioner and replace.

Originally posted by SubhashGowda07 View Post

Okay now I'm really confused, my bike's 5th service is ahead, I've been using motul 300v engine oil for over 5k kms, I was thinking to use the same oil for the next service too, well I've read somewhere that the 300v change interval is too less and meant only for track days. Coming to my confusion part where I really like the 300v performance as I felt the smoothness and power delivery was too good compared to the 7100.

Can someone clarify this please, I'll be using my rc only on weekends and love to redline as I'll be on the highway.

Also please mention the part number for NGK IRIDIUM spark plug.

Park number for NGK LKAR8AI9

300V in the end, is an oil, so it can be dragged to more than 3k max. I'd always recommend this as max for any oil, especially when it comes to motorcycles. If you're satisfied with the performance that the 300V has to offer, stick to it. Enjoy your bike, nothing to worry about. The key is the timely interval and replacement of engine oil.

Cheers!
VJ

**SubhashGowda07** · 02-25-2019, 12:36 AM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

Honining is a process as you know is to make sure the surface is as round as possible and spec free as possible. Not only that, the cross hatch pattern itself is important to make sure the oil stays in the surface of the cylinder in a criss-crossed pattern as opposed to nothing which an cause scuffing/scoring. Honing can be done on both CI, steel and NiKaSil or DiAsil liners. It's better to hone a new cylinder and then install it, if not cross-hatched.

If you feel the sound changing mildly when the clutch is engaged and disengaged that's normal. A mild change in sound is okay, but if you hear distinct change in sound with a rattle noise or a mild cluttery sound, it's time to replace your clutch basket. It's developed play and this will only worsen. At that RPM, the engine will sound a little harsher which is again normal, nothing to worry about. If you've closed more than 15k on your bike, it's time to inspect your shims/cam chain tensioner and replace.

Park number for NGK LKAR8AI9

300V in the end, is an oil, so it can be dragged to more than 3k max. I'd always recommend this as max for any oil, especially when it comes to motorcycles. If you're satisfied with the performance that the 300V has to offer, stick to it. Enjoy your bike, nothing to worry about. The key is the timely interval and replacement of engine oil.

Cheers!
VJ

How much would a clutch basket cost ? My bike is at 21k and a mild clutter noise while engaging and disengaging the clutch but this noise appears only on cold engine, after riding it for a while this will disappear ! Should I be concerned to change it ? And when one should change the clutch plates? Mine 2016 model with slipper clutch.

**bikersdream** · 02-25-2019, 10:42 AM

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

I don't think Clutch plate replacement is needed before 50kkms unless you are riding very hard/track days/some geniune problem.
I think it will be around rs 10-12k as Last time I enquired about upgrading to slippers clutch just out of curiosity.

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