Thank you!! Even the way the KTM rep were telling I figured something was not right. Generally I clean/lube my chain at around 500-600km religiously.

There isn't a set interval for chain sprocket replacement at 8k kms. This is purely to loot the customer. A chain sprocket kit would last 15 to 20k kms easily and depending on the wear rate, you can replace your sprocket. If you're taking care of your sprocket well, lubing and cleaning it on time, there's absolutely no necessity to replace it at 8k kms.

Cheers!
VJ

Chain and sprockets certainly will wear out.
But in Europe I never heard about fixed change interval, just an acceptable tolerance. Because chains can be open and used on dirt roads or well protected in the chain case​ and only used on tarmac.
If pinion/sprocket are deformed, they start to look like a shark tooth - change (together with chain). If you can lift the chain off the rear sprocket by hand​ - change (not necessarily together with pinion/sprocket, but if you are working at it anyway, you can spend a little more money and save work later).
But if the chain is just slack between the pinion and sprocket and can be tightened by pushing the rear wheel back slightly, adjust that.​

Hi..
Service center people are asking to change chain+sprocket kit. They are telling that one needs to change at 8K interval. Mine has done 15K & I didn't change the sprocket. Is it true what they are saying? Although I maintain my chain religiously at every 500-600Kms & so far no problems have arised.

You need to remove tank and seat, It connects with battery drain pipe and exits near the Rear Suspension area.

Also you don't have to remove anything, just spray the water drain hole with high-compressed air during service. It should clear the clogging

My fuel-cap water drain pipe is clogged, the water stays accumlated and have to soak it out with a cloth. any pointers which side is the drain pipe located? I am guessing i need to open up the side fairings/plastics to find it and re-route it if possible

Thank you for the inputs. I took my bike to a service station to have a look at the rear brake. They have also admitted about the lack of bite.(They used separate brake pads also to see if the factory fitted brakes have some problems or not). Initially, they thought some dirt is causing the low bite so they cleaned & used sandpaper also. I must say the braking has improved but still I feel it is not at its prime. However, they told me to give it some time and observe. Let's see.

1. Idle RPM and heat will be a wee bit higher during the initial run in period. Once the free services are carried out and engine oil replaced, progressively the engine will bed in and get smother.

2. Rear brakes on almost most of the bikes, lacks feedback and bite. Give it some time to bed in, if not remove the pads, glaze then with sandpaper and install them back. Helps.

3. Yes follow it, but don't follow it judiciously. An engine is best set when run at varied RPMs and speeds, not at a constant RPM and constant speed. Varying the speed and RPM without needless redlining helps engine bed in sooner and in a good way.

4. Pretty much all the above. Make sure to be present when they replace the oil, and make sure the oil level is always the right level before you exit showroom.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

1. There is no idle adjustment screw in Fi system unlike Carb bikes, as its a closed loop system. Idle rpm is controlled by the ECU using inputs from Temp sensor, TPS, O2 sensor inputs. But yes you can set the TPS to have lower initial value and play around with throttle cable slack to decrease the high idle rpm. But it's always recommend to run the bike rich AFR due to given high compression ratio of KTM's. A lean AFR causes more wear to inner cylinder walls.

2. Its by design due to how ABS works on rear brake in pulses, the bike has enough bite in SuperMoto mode (rear-ABS off), so much that your bike will fishtail and lockup instantly. You can try it out in safe closed surroundings on non-public roads at slow speeds.

3. Yes, always.

4. NEW BIKE RUNNING-IN Dos and Don'ts Thread ->https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcy...-don-ts-thread

Hi,
I have bought the Duke 250 & got the delivery on 7.01.21. This bike came as a surprise to me, I must admit. I have started to learn motorcycle with RE thunderbird. The rides in Duke250 is pretty immersive & fun. Some points which I wanted to get ideas from you guys are-
1. The idle RPM is 2000.. I hope after first servicing they will lower it a bit right?
2. Rear brake lacks bite.
3. According to the manual- I shouldn't go beyond 7500rpm during the first 1000KMs. I should stick to it right?
4. Any other points I need to consider during the run in period?

Thanks guys..

Thanks for the inputs guys. Made up my mind to buy the Duke 250. Currently in my hometown, will be making a purchase once I move back to Mumbai.

As a parting note on the topic, had the RE after sales service experience been better or even average, would've gone for the himalayan. They've not been sincere or professional and have billed me 4k-5k+ on almost all occasions (serviced every 3000 kms). My TB350 does do 105-110, but the vibrations take a toll hence u can't cover a longer distance in one day.

Will post pics!

Re: 2017 Duke 250

Well, if you've already had your share of an experience with an RE, then don't do it! Try the xpulse and see how that goes too.

Re: 2017 Duke 250

If you really loved a particular bike, go for it!

Although Duke 250 is costly and not a ride-anywhere bike(ADV) like Himalayan, here are some pros:

1. Weight
2. Power
3. Refinement
4. Reliability
5. Better Service experience

Re: 2017 Duke 250

I don't want to rob the Duke 250 thread, but on a closing note:
Very true, the way Himalayan delivers power and its gear ratios tuning, the motor is always stress free and smooth even in triple digits, until you look down on the Speedo you wont know you are already doing 80-90kmph. Its a true all rounder for city traffic, heavy off roading in bumpy roads, long distance highway cursing.

Though the Original Himalayan one had bad reliability with broken frames, engine casing, crankshaft etc etc. The BS4 was good fixing most issues but the new BS6 is the best one yet and pretty much sorted and fuss free. Until 30-40K km there is nothing major part ideally that would break on the bike for no reason, so parts is not a major concern for 1st 3-4 years because nothing will break apart from regular wear and tear.

For service, once warranty is over switch to some good bike garage who deal with big bikes, there are so many mechanics who expertise in RE and REH like say "Art of Motorcycles" or "Lakshmi's" here in Bangalore. They can pretty much do everything and anything for your RE bike better than any official RE service center. You just have to find similar garage in your city.

If you can afford it, pick the REH over D250/Gixxer250. If you are not a young blood and not looking for some lethal weapon with crazy insane power then stay away from all 390 KTM's. Himalayan gives you same torque of a 390 KTM, is 20ps less but its a saner and controllable bike ride.

Re: 2017 Duke 250

Sigh! I was hoping nobody will point this out. Been testing bikes to replace the current one. Rode the 390 adv, gix 250, 390 duke, honda cb300 and there was a Himalayan test ride in between all this.
Off all the bikes tested, it was only Himalayan that made me say "I think this would be my next bike". There is something about it, you just can't put it in words. It's not the refinement, not the posture, reliability issues exist (trust me I've had a really bad experience with RE service centers and I've tried all of them in my city, I now go to the least pathetic of the lot); but the entire package somehow felt amazing!
Top speed is a consideration for overtaking only. Intend to ride at 120 odd. But I get your point, will consider it as well. The service experience and parts reliability is a big big big headache!